CableGuy's DoopyDoos (feat. T-Jay kit) ANH E-11 WIP

[Bulldog44[TK]]

I bought a few of those Drexel bits a while back but haven’t used them yet for any projects. Good to hear they work well. I had used a few of the stone head grinding bits but they ended up losing their abrasiveness. The resin would just burn or melt and coat the bits rendering them useless. I will try the new one you posted. Thanks. Great work. Really coming along. It’s a pleasing feeling when you get all the parts mocked up and see the full blaster in is glory. 

[CableGuy[Admin]]

I bought a few of those Drexel bits a while back but haven’t used them yet for any projects. Good to hear they work well. I had used a few of the stone head grinding bits but they ended up losing their abrasiveness. The resin would just burn or melt and coat the bits rendering them useless. I will try the new one you posted. Thanks. Great work. Really coming along. It’s a pleasing feeling when you get all the parts mocked up and see the full blaster in is glory. 

Cheers, Brian.
Yes, I'm very much looking forward to getting all of the parts on.
I also tried some of the grinding bits but found they weren't effective enough. Possibly okay for very fine adjustments, just not much good for shifting larger amounts.
Might hollow out the scope next. :-)


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[Bulldog44[TK]]

Hollowing the scope is a bit scary but worth doing it if you want to get that extra bit of realism in your build. Lightens the blaster a bit more too. Can’t remember who recommended it but the wood spade bits worked well to hollow out my scope if you are going for the straight forward drill out method. But the other way seen more these days where the smaller lens end get hacked off then repositioned once all is hollowed on the inside seems the safer method, plus easier to insert lenses, etc. 

  

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Hollowing the scope is a bit scary but worth doing it if you want to get that extra bit of realism in your build. Lightens the blaster a bit more too. Can’t remember who recommended it but the wood spade bits worked well to hollow out my scope if you are going for the straight forward drill out method. But the other way seen more these days where the smaller lens end get hacked off then repositioned once all is hollowed on the inside seems the safer method, plus easier to insert lenses, etc. 
  

Ah, cool. Good tips.
If I'm honest, now that my armour is pretty much done, I might take a few simple routes for some parts as I'm really eager to get trooping. Like the scope - I'll probably just drill suitable holes and fit the lenses.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not going to rush it, but might go a little simpler for this maiden build.

Thankfully, DD kits are only £40ish so I might well do a super-build done the line some time. :-)


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[CableGuy[Admin]]

Hi all,

 

Squeezed in 10 mins and had some surprisingly good results with the following disc tool.

 

 

 

Here's how the Doopy's folding stock comes as standard:

 

 

And here's what I started to achieve with the disc cutter:

 

 

 

 

Not the easiest thing to capture on camera - trying to use the shadows to show the groove.

 

Will carry on when I can to accentuate the appearance of separation. I'm also planning on using a similar method on the tracks at the front end. :-)

 

 

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[CableGuy[Admin]]

Wow. That cutting disc is my new best friend. It is perfect for adding separation between the tracks and the barrel.

 

 

I'm by no means finished yet, however it's coming together quite nicely. :-)

 

 

You'll probably guess that I've been working on the middle one of these pictures.

 

 

 

 

 

I've got the bug for this. ;-)

 

 

 

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[Dracotrooper]

Wow, some really stellar upgrades going on - you have steady hands to run along the t-tracks as you have, most impressive!

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Wow, some really stellar upgrades going on - you have steady hands to run along the t-tracks as you have, most impressive!

Cheers, Jesse.
I was quite pleased to discover that the disc just naturally 'sits' in the groove between the barrel and track. As such, a steady hand is helpful but not essential. Can't wait to do the rest now.

Out of interest, if anyone has any info or a good link to the workings of the end cap clip, it'd be much appreciated. I'm struggling to understand exactly how the real ones worked. I.e. I've read bits about when it attaches to the cap, such as 'when the cap is fully depressed' etc.
I'm not planning on having mine as functional, but do want it in the correct position. :-)


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[Bulldog44[TK]]

End cap clip release compliments of usaeatt2 and Tino:

https://youtu.be/CYVmP_k9rIw

 

https://youtu.be/l72kvNbmnac

Edited October 2, 2017 by Bulldog44

[CableGuy[Admin]]

2 hours ago, Bulldog44 said:

End cap clip release compliments of usaeatt2 and Tino:

https://youtu.be/CYVmP_k9rIw

 

https://youtu.be/l72kvNbmnac

Hi Brian,

That is PERFECT!! I couldn't get my head around this before, but those videos clear it all up. I wrongly assumed that the end clip 'held' the end cap in place; however, I now understand that it simply stops the end cap from being able to disengage. I'll certainly look at replicating this.

 

Thanks again (to you, and to usaeatt2 and Tino)!! :-)

 

Dan

[T-Jay[TK]]

Always happy to help

And yes, I can only agree to what Brian said about the spade bits for hollowing your scope. I tried different bits earlier and nothing worked as good as this. Just make sure to grab a set with the correct size to install the big end of your monocular into the scope (in case you go for this mod).

[CableGuy[Admin]]

8 minutes ago, T-Jay said:

Always happy to help

And yes, I can only agree to what Brian said about the spade bits for hollowing your scope. I tried different bits earlier and nothing worked as good as this. Just make sure to grab a set with the correct size to install the big end of your monocular into the scope (in case you go for this mod).

Cheers, Tino. 

I appreciate both your's and Brian's input on that one. I will go that route to avoid blunders. :-)

[Bulldog44[TK]]

No problem, those guys are the hero’s for posting their videos. Glad it helps. Yeah, it was really cool when they posted the videos to show how it works. Fun detail to replicate for sure. 

Edited October 2, 2017 by Bulldog44

[Dracotrooper]

11 hours ago, CableGuy said:

Cheers, Jesse. I was quite pleased to discover that the disc just naturally 'sits' in the groove between the barrel and track. As such, a steady hand is helpful but not essential. Can't wait to do the rest now....

Good to know Dan. I may try a few test runs on what you've prescribed until I'm brave enough to attempt this mod. - I'm still quite the newbie in doing Dremel work, let alone resin projects. Good on you for your excellent results, keep the updates coming, you're doing a heck of a job!

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Good to know Dan. I may try a few test runs on what you've prescribed until I'm brave enough to attempt this mod. - I'm still quite the newbie in doing Dremel work, let alone resin projects. Good on you for your excellent results, keep the updates coming, you're doing a heck of a job!

Cheers, Jesse. I'm in the same boat - this is my first time working with resin and I bought the Dremel purely for building my armour. I'm certainly learning as I go.
I really appreciate your enthusiasm and support though. And the tips from across the board from yourself and others. :-)


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[CableGuy[Admin]]

Right, made quite a bit of progress this evening.

 

Started with the scope. For those that haven't used spade bits before (like me before this evening), they look a bit like this;

 

(Image from google - don't know if this is the right size)

 

I measured up and drilled a Pilot hole.

 

 

Then started with the spade bit, varying the speed to get a steady result.

 

 

 

I stopped at this depth as I don't have any smaller sizes. Off to borrow more from my dad. ;-)

 

Separated the sight and sight pin(?)

 

Then back to using my favourite Dremel disc to work on the stock and t-tracks.

 

 

 

And here's some pics to show the t-tracks. Really pleased with the appearance of separate parts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Before and after:

 

 

As always, more to come. :-)

 

 

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[CableGuy[Admin]]

Howdi folks.
Tonight was scope night. Bought a fantastic value set of wood spade bits. 6 piece for under £3.



First I started by cutting down the larger lens from my monocular from Tino’s kit.







I’ve managed to hollow as the scope, (as many have done previously), and thankfully it worked well.








Also removed the resin screw heads and replaced with real ones (again, from Tino’s kit).














Until next time. :-)






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[Bulldog44[TK]]

Nice work on the scope. Hands of a surgeon. 

[Dracotrooper]

By comparison, I went pretty buck-wild on my scope hollowing; ended up with two gaping holes recovered via green stuff. Very precise and impressive hollowing job Dan, good on you

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Cheers guys. Really appreciate the feedback. This feels like slow progress at the moment so you’re keeping me on target. :-)


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[CableGuy[Admin]]

Hiya.

Power cylinders now underway. Mod to front of stock nearly finished. Also started cutting down the end cap clip to fit into the aluminium channel in Tino’s kit.



(*Work in progress)










:-)
Dan


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[CableGuy[Admin]]

Morning troopers,

Carried on with the front sight block yesterday. I’m planning to use these original DD parts with the addition of a custom sight pin.














Any thoughts? :-)




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[T-Jay[TK]]

Everything looking good so far, Dan. If the front sight from the DoopyDoo's kit gets separated into sight guard and sight block (like you did here), it can be turned into a really nice thing. Did exactly the same with my last DoopyDoo's build and was happy with the result. It might end up being a tiny bit too small (hard to notice) but once you add the front sight pin and the grub screw at the side, it will look very good.

 

Loving your extra effort to make the T-tracks looking like additional parts. Haven't seen this before (at least I can't remember) and these days it gets harder and harder to show a modification, that hasn't been done before. An excellent detail.

 

Just one question: Do you plan to install the crosshair lens / reticle lens into your scope?

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Everything looking good so far, Dan. If the front sight from the DoopyDoo's kit gets separated into sight guard and sight block (like you did here), it can be turned into a really nice thing. Did exactly the same with my last DoopyDoo's build and was happy with the result. It might end up being a tiny bit too small (hard to notice) but once you add the front sight pin and the grub screw at the side, it will look very good.
 
Loving your extra effort to make the T-tracks looking like additional parts. Haven't seen this before (at least I can't remember) and these days it gets harder and harder to show a modification, that hasn't been done before. An excellent detail.
 
Just one question: Do you plan to install the crosshair lens / reticle lens into your scope?

Hi Tino.

Many thanks for your feedback. Yes, I’m really pleased with the t-tracks. Hopefully they’ll look good when painted, too.

Excuse my ignorance but, do you mean the smaller front lens when you say “crosshair lens / reticle lens”? If so, I’ve cut it down to size (from the monocular supplied in your kit) and will be fitting that after painting. I was thinking of leaving them clear. I’ve left it off for now as it was likely to fall out and I didn’t want to misplace it. :-)




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[T-Jay[TK]]

No ignorance at all, Dan. All fine. The lens I am talking about is item #34 (reticle lens to install a crosshair into a hollowed scope)

 

To get a clear reading of the engravings, they need to be magnified by the large lens in your scope. But this will only work, if the distance between crosshair and magnifying lens is correct. See red arrow in the second picture.