T-Jay[TK] Posted September 17, 2017 Report Posted September 17, 2017 Perfect, those two pictures say it all. Yes, maybe a new trigger guard will fix the movement problem as well. 1 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted September 17, 2017 Report Posted September 17, 2017 Oh, so so insightful fellas, intrigued and following closely 1 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted September 19, 2017 Report Posted September 19, 2017 Let's get some traction on this together shall we? I've come across a posting by Lucas (ZeroRoom) back in 2011 with topic 'The Best Sterling Templates EVER!' I downloaded the PDF on the trigger group: The length of the trigger guard, laid out and flat is 105mm long and discussions say the width is between 11 and 13mm. Perhaps we can gauge a workable width by measuring the width of our Doopydoos 'ports' (for lack of a better word), that take in the trigger guard ends? Discussions say dimensions are not off of a British Sterling, but I gather the measurements are still suitable. 2 Quote
CableGuy[TK] Posted September 19, 2017 Author Report Posted September 19, 2017 Let's get some traction on this together shall we? I've come across a posting by Lucas (ZeroRoom) back in 2011 with topic 'The Best Sterling Templates EVER!' I downloaded the PDF on the trigger group: The length of the trigger guard, laid out and flat is 105mm long and discussions say the width is between 11 and 13mm. Perhaps we can gauge a workable width by measuring the width of our Doopydoos 'ports' (for lack of a better word), that take in the trigger guard ends? Discussions say dimensions are not off of a British Sterling, but I gather the measurements are still suitable. Excellent find, Jesse. I have some aluminium, (approx 2mm thick), that came with Tino's kit that might do the job. It was intended for the scope rail but I ordered a pre-built rail as well, so this is going spare. I think that should be okay. I've not really worked with metal in this was before. Any tips for cutting? Hacksaw? Not sure how straight or tidy the edge would be with a hacksaw? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
Dracotrooper Posted September 19, 2017 Report Posted September 19, 2017 2 minutes ago, CableGuy said: Excellent find, Jesse. I have some aluminium, (approx 2mm thick), that came with Tino's kit that might do the job. It was intended for the scope rail but I ordered a pre-built rail as well, so this is going spare. I think that should be okay. I've not really worked with metal in this was before. Any tips for cutting? Hacksaw? Not sure how straight or tidy the edge would be with a hacksaw? Funny you should relay this - I too have this spare aluminum part as I opted for the upcharge to get the finished scope rail with Tino's Completion set. Good to know it measures 2mm in thickness. Warning! Aluminum gets really hot, really fast! I found out the hard way when I initially attempted to cut to various sizes, the 5mm aluminum rod provided in the kit. The trigger guard is a much larger piece of aluminum and you want straight edges too, let alone a curved surface! I am thinking commissioning a fabricator to get it done for a few bucks is the safest way to go, and it also ensures for a quality piece. Yeah, I'm without the proper tools. Perhaps a solution can be suggested here... Quote
CableGuy[TK] Posted September 19, 2017 Author Report Posted September 19, 2017 Funny you should relay this - I too have this spare aluminum part as I opted for the upcharge to get the finished scope rail with Tino's Completion set. Good to know it measures 2mm in thickness. Warning! Aluminum gets really hot, really fast! I found out the hard way when I initially attempted to cut to various sizes, the 5mm aluminum rod provided in the kit. The trigger guard is a much larger piece of aluminum and you want straight edges too, let alone a curved surface! I am thinking commissioning a fabricator to get it done for a few bucks is the safest way to go, and it also ensures for a quality piece. Yeah, I'm without the proper tools. Perhaps a solution can be suggested here... Hehe, funny that. Great minds think alike. ;-)Yeah, sounds possible. However, I'm not 100% sure of the aluminium thickness, so don't rely on me for that bit. ;-)Thanks for the tips on the heat. I think I'll have a chat with my dad. He has pretty much every tool under the sun and is experienced with metal work. I'll keep you updated if I make progress. :-)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote
themaninthesuitcase[Admin] Posted September 19, 2017 Report Posted September 19, 2017 Hi dan not sure what your plans are for this but this thread is worth reading over at the UKG if you've not seen it regarding the policy on lights and sounds. Must admit I wasn't aware of it until today, so I'm trying to bring it to new troopers attention. https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=30911&share_tid=66997&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eukgarrison%2Eco%2Euk%2Fforum%2Fviewtopic%2Ephp%3Ft%3D66997&share_type=t 1 Quote
CableGuy[TK] Posted September 19, 2017 Author Report Posted September 19, 2017 Hi dan not sure what your plans are for this but this thread is worth reading over at the UKG if you've not seen it regarding the policy on lights and sounds. Must admit I wasn't aware of it until today, so I'm trying to bring it to new troopers attention. https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=30911&share_tid=66997&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eukgarrison%2Eco%2Euk%2Fforum%2Fviewtopic%2Ephp%3Ft%3D66997&share_type=t Hi Chris,Can't get that link to work, however I'm not planning light or sound for this one. Was initially thinking of BlastFX but dropped that ideal a while back once I realised how long the standard build on its own would take me. I'll try the link again later. :-)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
CableGuy[TK] Posted September 19, 2017 Author Report Posted September 19, 2017 Hi dan not sure what your plans are for this but this thread is worth reading over at the UKG if you've not seen it regarding the policy on lights and sounds. Must admit I wasn't aware of it until today, so I'm trying to bring it to new troopers attention. https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=30911&share_tid=66997&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eukgarrison%2Eco%2Euk%2Fforum%2Fviewtopic%2Ephp%3Ft%3D66997&share_type=t Ah, I don't have access to that part of the forum as I'm not cleared. Do you think it'll affect my build? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
Rob .T .[TK] Posted September 19, 2017 Report Posted September 19, 2017 (edited) No, it won't affect your build. The UKG doesn't like lights or sounds, but that just means you don't use them when out with the UKG . For your own entertainment , and for use with other costuming groups, you can do whatever you like with your blaster . Go for it I say ! Edited September 19, 2017 by Rob .T . Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted September 20, 2017 Report Posted September 20, 2017 11 hours ago, Dracotrooper said: Funny you should relay this - I too have this spare aluminum part as I opted for the upcharge to get the finished scope rail with Tino's Completion set. Good to know it measures 2mm in thickness. Warning! Aluminum gets really hot, really fast! I found out the hard way when I initially attempted to cut to various sizes, the 5mm aluminum rod provided in the kit. The trigger guard is a much larger piece of aluminum and you want straight edges too, let alone a curved surface! I am thinking commissioning a fabricator to get it done for a few bucks is the safest way to go, and it also ensures for a quality piece. Yeah, I'm without the proper tools. Perhaps a solution can be suggested here... The self-made trigger guard in this link was built from exactly the same aluminum stripe (item #04 from the Completion Set). The 2mm thickness is sufficient and sturdy enough. It can be bent to shape with hands and pliars. A vice is also useful. In my case, I had to trimm the long side starting 12mm on the top end to 10mm for the lower end. 1 Quote
CableGuy[TK] Posted September 20, 2017 Author Report Posted September 20, 2017 The self-made trigger guard in this link was built from exactly the same aluminum stripe (item #04 from the Completion Set). The 2mm thickness is sufficient and sturdy enough. It can be bent to shape with hands and pliars. A vice is also useful. In my case, I had to trimm the long side starting 12mm on the top end to 10mm for the lower end. Excellent - thanks Tino. May I ask what you used to cut it, please? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted September 20, 2017 Report Posted September 20, 2017 A simple hacksaw did the job. And a file was used on the long side for trimming it. 2 Quote
themaninthesuitcase[Admin] Posted September 20, 2017 Report Posted September 20, 2017 11 hours ago, CableGuy said: Hi Chris, Can't get that link to work, however I'm not planning light or sound for this one. Was initially thinking of BlastFX but dropped that ideal a while back once I realised how long the standard build on its own would take me. I'll try the link again later. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Rob pretty much covered it but the tl;dr is as lights and sounds weren't seen on screen they will not be allowed on a troop. They can be fitted but must be switched off when on a UKG troop. Clear/see through scopes are fine though. I'm trying to get the policy in the public sections as I wasn't aware it was the policy until last night so I am sure theres a lot who don't know. Quote
CableGuy[TK] Posted September 20, 2017 Author Report Posted September 20, 2017 14 hours ago, Rob .T . said: No, it won't affect your build. The UKG doesn't like lights or sounds, but that just means you don't use them when out with the UKG . For your own entertainment , and for use with other costuming groups, you can do whatever you like with your blaster . Go for it I say ! Many thanks, Rob. Better to know now and spread the word to other prospective UKG folk. :-) 5 hours ago, T-Jay said: The self-made trigger guard in this link was built from exactly the same aluminum stripe (item #04 from the Completion Set). The 2mm thickness is sufficient and sturdy enough. It can be bent to shape with hands and pliars. A vice is also useful. In my case, I had to trimm the long side starting 12mm on the top end to 10mm for the lower end. Yowza - is there anything that you haven't done during an E-11 build! Seriously though, thank you for the tips. I think a more substantial trigger guard will be a good upgrade. 4 hours ago, themaninthesuitcase said: Rob pretty much covered it but the tl;dr is as lights and sounds weren't seen on screen they will not be allowed on a troop. They can be fitted but must be switched off when on a UKG troop. Clear/see through scopes are fine though. I'm trying to get the policy in the public sections as I wasn't aware it was the policy until last night so I am sure theres a lot who don't know. Cheers Chris. I'm planning on having the see-through scope so glad that should be okay. If I'm honest, I understand the point behind it. Whilst it's probably fun to "PEW PEW" at folks, I can see how it could detract from the realism. Quote
CableGuy[TK] Posted September 20, 2017 Author Report Posted September 20, 2017 Hi folks,Made some decent progress this evening. I wanted to attach the grip before I carried on with the trigger. Sizing up, leaving the gap between the grip and the mount for the folding stock. (Cute touch - "Doopydoos" and a smiley face on the grip)More to come. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 3 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted September 20, 2017 Report Posted September 20, 2017 Nice work Dan - your blaster is really taking shape now. Not sure what stage these photos are on your build but applying CA glue to go along with the bolts may go along way to ensure the grip piece remains attached to the receiver tube. I remember Tino saying somewhere that the glue provided in his completion set is good for resin to resin contact. =), my two cents, hope you're having as much fun as we the audience! 1 Quote
CableGuy[TK] Posted September 20, 2017 Author Report Posted September 20, 2017 Nice work Dan - your blaster is really taking shape now. Not sure what stage these photos are on your build but applying CA glue to go along with the bolts may go along way to ensure the grip piece remains attached to the receiver tube. I remember Tino saying somewhere that the glue provided in his completion set is good for resin to resin contact. =), my two cents, hope you're having as much fun as we the audience! Cheers Jesse. I appreciate the feedback and advice. :-)I'm currently in the "trial fitting" stage. I think I'm likely to glue quite near the end, once I know where and how everything fits together. Also, painting might be easier with separate parts - for metallic and plastic appearance. And yes - I'm really enjoying it!! Just need more hours in the day. ;-)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted September 20, 2017 Report Posted September 20, 2017 (edited) 8 minutes ago, CableGuy said: Cheers Jesse. I appreciate the feedback and advice. :-) I'm currently in the "trial fitting" stage. I think I'm likely to glue quite near the end, once I know where and how everything fits together. Also, painting might be easier with separate parts - for metallic and plastic appearance. And yes - I'm really enjoying it!! Just need more hours in the day. ;-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Ahh dude that's exactly my approach as well - so funny our approaches are similar: pursue excellence with component pieces. I think I have similar blood to your part of the world as I align myself with Tino's build approach as well lol Edited September 20, 2017 by Dracotrooper 1 Quote
themaninthesuitcase[Admin] Posted September 20, 2017 Report Posted September 20, 2017 If you need time to adjust and line up for final fitting then 5 minute epoxy also works great. Think I used loktites one but any branded one will be fine. 1 Quote
CableGuy[TK] Posted September 22, 2017 Author Report Posted September 22, 2017 Hi all, Booked an afternoon off work today and made some decent progress. Here's some highlights: Started by working on the rear sight as I really wanted to test fit the scope rail. Decided I wanted to screw the rear sight to the barrel, so cleared a space inside to allow the screw head to hide under the scope rail. Test run with scope before drilling into the body. Then moved on to the magazine housing. Quite a simple fitting there. Started preparing the scope for attaching to the rail. Lucky I double checked where to drill - the mounts on the bottom of the scope aren't quite central. And that brings us up to date. On to something that didn't quite work. How does one bend aluminium without it snapping? Any tips on shaping, too? Many thanks, Dan :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Quote
themaninthesuitcase[Admin] Posted September 22, 2017 Report Posted September 22, 2017 Aluminium doesn’t like to bend tight angles. I cheated by cutting a groove in the “elbow” of the bend with a hack saw. The wider the grove the sharper the angle you can do. If I recall a grove half way through about 1.5-2mm wide will be enough for a 90° bend, but have a look on my WIP as I am sure I documented it there. 2 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted September 22, 2017 Report Posted September 22, 2017 (edited) oooh, your blaster is looking more fine as each day progresses Dan! I like your measure twice, cut once approach. It's unfortunate about the trigger guard mishap but you still have plenty of aluminum for a second go. I will also need to study Chris's documentation on how he successfully bend aluminum. Edited September 22, 2017 by Dracotrooper 1 Quote
CableGuy[TK] Posted September 30, 2017 Author Report Posted September 30, 2017 Evening all. Only small progress this evening. Removed the resin screws (lumps) from the muzzle, drilled new holes and installed the hex screws. If anyone is thinking, "which Dremel tools would be good for this project", this one is great. :-) Lumps before: Fun times. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted September 30, 2017 Report Posted September 30, 2017 Looking good! Nice work Quote
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