Mr V[TK] Posted August 20, 2017 Report Posted August 20, 2017 From building my FX kit i learnt the following points; 1) Refer to forum. 2) Measure twice cut once 3) Dont use a strong glue that will melt your ABS. 4) Refer to forum. I always start a project by making up some reference sheets i can easily carry around. Sheet 3 will be my helmet sheet (TBC). Quote
Mr V[TK] Posted August 20, 2017 Author Report Posted August 20, 2017 I will not be showing every edge i trim and not sure where to start so have started with some of the smaller pieces. I love my wonky RS kit. I knew what to expect and it is more important to me to have something based on an original suit than a sanitized version (but i do like those also, just had to make a choice). In terms of strapping i will be using snaps for durability. I am not convinced that brackets are a good long term trooping option. Ab buttons were pretty straight forward. Gave the corners a bit of a sand mainly because everything else on the kit has rounded corners or edges. From there i am contemplating the shoulder bells. I think these measurements are correct. But i will not be cutting these until the torso is complete as i want minimal black showing between the shoulder and chest. Quote
Mr V[TK] Posted August 20, 2017 Author Report Posted August 20, 2017 Good news. Thermal detonator today. BOOM. Straight forward jobs today. Cover strips attached to the biceps and made up some snaps. I have used marine snaps as they are very good quality. Quote
Briareos1138 Posted August 20, 2017 Report Posted August 20, 2017 At a recent get together i got an up close look at RS armor, nice stuff! Your build looks like its coming along nicely! Heres a pic of the RS suit. Photo courtesy of Marty Miller.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
Mr V[TK] Posted August 21, 2017 Author Report Posted August 21, 2017 Thanks. They do look good. Its the main reason why i have to move on from my FX kit. Shouting out for help here. So do i cut where the blue arrow is (Ab section) or do i cut the Kidney section (red arrow). Cutting in thees places i lose my return edges....Or do i go with number 3 as most of this area is covered by the belt. The good news is i dont need shims on the sides so pretty happy about that. Quote
Mr V[TK] Posted August 24, 2017 Author Report Posted August 24, 2017 (edited) Scoring and snapping the ABS sheets for the cover strips. Iv got to say RS have provided plenty of extra ABS for the kit. I tried experimenting with gluing the cover strips first and the back strips as well. No difference really. I think if i did them both at the same time quality would suffer. ie glue everywhere. The larger image shows the asymetrical nature of the hand sculpted world of ANH. Love it. Edited September 1, 2017 by Mr V add details to image Quote
themaninthesuitcase[Admin] Posted August 25, 2017 Report Posted August 25, 2017 Did you get an answer on the ab? I'd start by trimming the excess on the ab plate and the positioning should be far more obvious. Quote
Mr V[TK] Posted August 27, 2017 Author Report Posted August 27, 2017 Hi Chris, No answer.. but from looking at the Centurion photos, image 3 is correct. I just need to trim the Ab section. Completed the drop boxes today, whilst waiting for more magnets to arrive. Drop box construction Quote
Daetrin[Admin] Posted August 27, 2017 Report Posted August 27, 2017 Wow, the progress is progressing nicely. Good job so far Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted August 27, 2017 Report Posted August 27, 2017 On 21/08/2017 at 9:49 PM, Mr V said: Thanks. They do look good. Its the main reason why i have to move on from my FX kit. Shouting out for help here. So do i cut where the blue arrow is (Ab section) or do i cut the Kidney section (red arrow). Cutting in thees places i lose my return edges....Or do i go with number 3 as most of this area is covered by the belt. The good news is i dont need shims on the sides so pretty happy about that. On 26/08/2017 at 5:47 AM, themaninthesuitcase said: I'd start by trimming the excess on the ab plate and the positioning should be far more obvious. What he said ^^ Quote
Mr V[TK] Posted August 28, 2017 Author Report Posted August 28, 2017 7 hours ago, Sith Lord said: What he said ^^ You are correct ^^ Quote
Mr V[TK] Posted August 28, 2017 Author Report Posted August 28, 2017 Quick design sketch for the belt construction. I also scaled up the original RS belt on my ipad and matched it as best as i could with some canvas. The weave seems pretty close. TK belt construction Canvas belt original Quote
fragarock[TK] Posted August 30, 2017 Report Posted August 30, 2017 On 8/21/2017 at 7:49 AM, Mr V said: Thanks. They do look good. Its the main reason why i have to move on from my FX kit. Shouting out for help here. So do i cut where the blue arrow is (Ab section) or do i cut the Kidney section (red arrow). Cutting in thees places i lose my return edges....Or do i go with number 3 as most of this area is covered by the belt. The good news is i dont need shims on the sides so pretty happy about that. I'd go with photo 1. You need to trim off that floppy part of the top of the ab anyways. I had the same dilemma regarding the notch, ultimately because I'm short I had to remake the notch anyways. But the CRL isn't exactly clear on where the notch is suppose to be. Ideally it aligns like you have it in photo 2 but not all the TKs had this. if you look at the reference photos of the RS suit, the notch is in a different position on the left side compared to the right so there appears to be some flexibility on this point. Ultimately it's all covered by the belt so you're not gonna see it anyways. If you're taller, or approximately in that 5'-10" sweet spot you may not have to trim anything. I'd align the pieces like in photo 1 and put the but piece in there as well to see how it falls relative to the other pieces. Ideally it fits in perfectly with it swooping underneath to meet up with the cod. Quote
Mr V[TK] Posted August 30, 2017 Author Report Posted August 30, 2017 Thanks Frank. Got it sorted now. Made my shin connectors today. Only a minor bleed due to the needle. [url=https:// Quote
Mr V[TK] Posted September 3, 2017 Author Report Posted September 3, 2017 Started the shins. Not even a close match but i can see why. RS has used the same mold for the left and right sections for each calf (I think). The bra hook holes can clearly be seen at the rear. The top fronts were glued to match. everything else can be trimmed to fit the boots. If its like my FX kit hopefully once the bra hooks are attached they will pull together and line up at the top. I will certainly need to do some trimming at the bottoms once i fit them with boots on. Shins front Shins back Quote
Mr V[TK] Posted September 5, 2017 Author Report Posted September 5, 2017 (edited) Interesting to see the original bra hook holes at the rear of the calves. All i can say is the TK extras had small calves. I wont be using the same holes. Original holes next up was to glue the sniper plate aligning the edge (red line) Edge alignment Glued some packing under the straps for extra glue surface area. On the topic of glue i have ended up using E6000 for the front strips and gone for ABS cement (Thin smear, not thick) for the inside strips. Straps Made the canvas belt with frayed edging. TK belt Edited September 5, 2017 by Mr V 1 Quote
Mr V[TK] Posted September 11, 2017 Author Report Posted September 11, 2017 Marking out where the rivets go. Split pins were easier to find than expected (7.5mm diameter). Quote
Addertime[TK] Posted September 11, 2017 Report Posted September 11, 2017 On 8/28/2017 at 0:10 PM, Mr V said: Quick design sketch for the belt construction. I also scaled up the original RS belt on my ipad and matched it as best as i could with some canvas. The weave seems pretty close. TK belt construction A lot of people build their belt flat like this but there's a better way in my opinion. The belt is best built curved. Set the center rivet and put the belt on your body over the ab and kidney plates. Then mark the location of the outer holes. Remember covering your schoolbooks? If you covered them while flat, they wouldn't close. Building the belt flat is the number one reason people blow out rivets or crack the plastic on the belt packs. 1 Quote
Mr V[TK] Posted September 11, 2017 Author Report Posted September 11, 2017 7 hours ago, Addertime said: A lot of people build their belt flat like this but there's a better way in my opinion. The belt is best built curved. Set the center rivet and put the belt on your body over the ab and kidney plates. Then mark the location of the outer holes. Remember covering your schoolbooks? If you covered them while flat, they wouldn't close. Building the belt flat is the number one reason people blow out rivets or crack the plastic on the belt packs. Good idea. I might even try to add a washer to increase the surface area against the ABS. Quote
Mr V[TK] Posted September 12, 2017 Author Report Posted September 12, 2017 Time to tackle the thighs. Plenty of excess to trim. Using my long ruler i started with a base line on the edge of the raised area. Then measured 10mm from this to give the cut line. (20mm cover strip for the thigh fronts). TK thighs Double checked the cover strip would be nice and even down the front. The top and bottom edges are not exactly matching so you have to find a happy medium. TK thighs On a side note: Ordered my extra magnets from China 1 month ago-still not arrived! and i have almost finished. erhh!! Quote
Mr V[TK] Posted September 16, 2017 Author Report Posted September 16, 2017 Ahhhh...the asymmetrical world that is Star Wars. Got some trimming to do here. Right thigh Quote
shadan[TK] Posted September 16, 2017 Report Posted September 16, 2017 It’s looking good mate. I’ll be hitting you up for tips soon enough.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote
Mr V[TK] Posted October 2, 2017 Author Report Posted October 2, 2017 Diversion from the build-Troop from the weekend. Quote
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