TK-50601 Requesting ANH Stunt EIB Status [RS] [752]

[darthRivera[501st]]

Basic Information

Name:  Michael Rivera Camacho
Forum name: darthRivera
501st Member Page: https://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=14876&costumeID=124
501st ID: TK-50601
Garrison: Costa Rica Garrison

 

Mandatory Information

Armor Maker = RS Propmasters
Helmet Maker = RS Propmasters
Blaster Type = E-11 RS Propmasters

 

Optional Information

Height = 5'11"
Weight = 198 pounds
Boots Maker = RS Propmasters
Canvas belt = RS Propmasters
Hand Plates Type = RS Propmasters
Neck Seal Type = RS Propmasters
Holster Maker = RS Propmasters

Armor and helmet material: PVC

 

Front

 

Back

 

Left – Arm raised

 

Right – Arm raised

 

Left Side Detail

 

Right Side Detail

 

Action Shot

 

Cod and Butt Plate Attachment

 

Interior Strapping

 

Helmet Front

 

Helmet Left

 

Helmet Right

 

Helmet Back

 

Helmet Hovi Tip Detail

 

Helmet Lens Color

 

Helmet S-Trim

 

Blaster

 

 

 

Neckseal

 

Thermal Detonator

 

 

Belt and holster

 

 

 

Thigh Ammo Pack

 

 

 

Abdomen Detail

 

Gloves

 

 

No helmet

 

Pura Vida!!

[darthRivera[501st]]

Hi.

Please let me know if there is a problem with the format of my request. (Pics, information, etc.)

 

I keep waiting for indications of possible corrections to my armor.

 

Thanks.

Edited August 23, 2017 by darthRivera

[Addertime[TK]]

Looks really good Michael! 

I have a few suggestions on things to improve your kit:

1. The kidney plate alignment looks a little off.
2. The snaps and rivet on the crotch should not be painted
3. Screws on the Thermal Detonator should be painted black
4. The painted areas on the ab plate buttons could be a little larger

Aside from those little things, I think the fit looks good and I wish you the best moving forward!

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

Always nice to see a great set of RS armor, Michael!  If I could add something to Michael's (Addertime) list, it would be to paint the ear screws white.  All those are easy fixes, brother, so don't get discouraged.

Hopefully we will be seeing your Centurion level submission after you reach EIB.  For this I would suggest integrating the shims into your kidney armor.  Ideally, there should be no seam there (see photo below).  Fixing this would entail making up some ABS paste and only hour or two of your time.

See you at EIB soon!!

 

[Btabc[TK]]

4 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

Always nice to see a great set of RS armor, Michael!  If I could add something to Michael's (Addertime) list, it would be to paint the ear screws white.  All those are easy fixes, brother, so don't get discouraged.

Hopefully we will be seeing your Centurion level submission after you reach EIB.  For this I would suggest integrating the shims into your kidney armor.  Ideally, there should be no seam there (see photo below).  Fixing this would entail making up some ABS paste and only hour or two of your time.

See you at EIB soon!!

 

I am in no way trying to correct here, but I'm rather confused?  I noticed in the CRL it states:

 

 

"For level two certification (if applicable):
Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide.

Any shims used to achieve this effect are of a similar material and color as the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims fit flush and seams are allowed."

 

So that being said are we allowed to have a seam or not?  I just would like clarification for myself so I know what to go by.  Is it because it's not sitting flush?  I'm sorry for the confusion on this matter.

 

 

[darthRivera[501st]]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Very thankful.

[magni[TK]]

The shim needs to sit flush to the kidney. This is clearly behind it. When shim is made flush fill seam with abs paste and sand and polish smooth. Leaving only one seam on side.

Hope this helps.

Good Luck on your application!

[Shanester[TK]]

It looks like a good fit.  The only things that jump out at me are the screws on your DT needing black paint and the crotch snaps of your butt plate having paint on them.  Easy fixes.  Good luck trooper and I hope to see you at Centurion next. 

[Btabc[TK]]

2 hours ago, magni said:

The shim needs to sit flush to the kidney. This is clearly behind it. When shim is made flush fill seam with abs paste and sand and polish smooth. Leaving only one seam on side.

Hope this helps.

Good Luck on your application!

Thank you for the clarification!

 

 

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

3 hours ago, Btabc said:

I am in no way trying to correct here, but I'm rather confused?  I noticed in the CRL it states:

 

 

"For level two certification (if applicable):
Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide.

Any shims used to achieve this effect are of a similar material and color as the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims fit flush and seams are allowed."

 

So that being said are we allowed to have a seam or not?  I just would like clarification for myself so I know what to go by.  Is it because it's not sitting flush?  I'm sorry for the confusion on this matter.

 

 

Sorry if you misunderstood, Bryce.  If you will note, my statement was a suggestion for the next  level, (Centurion). "Hopefully we will be seeing your Centurion level submission after you reach EIB.  For this....."

 

3 hours ago, Btabc said:

 

  I'm sorry for the confusion on this matter

 

Never be sorry about being confused or asking questions, brother.  The way the seams are now may be good for EIB, but for level 3 they will need to be flush with the kidney piece, which entails shimming them from the back, filling the gap with ABS paste and sanding/polishing until the kidney/shims are one piece.  There are a few tutorials on here, but if I can help just let me know.

[Btabc[TK]]

3 minutes ago, justjoseph63 said:

Sorry if you misunderstood, Bryce.  If you will note, my statement was a suggestion for the next  level, (Centurion). "Hopefully we will be seeing your Centurion level submission after you reach EIB.  For this....."

 

 

Never be sorry about being confused or asking questions, brother.  The way the seams are now may be good for EIB, but for level 3 they will need to be flush with the kidney piece, which entails shimming them from the back, filling the gap with ABS paste and sanding/polishing until the kidney/shims are one piece.  There are a few tutorials on here, but if I can help just let me know.

This helps greatly!  I don't want to come off as being confrontational haha.  I forgot that there was a basic approval and was told this just the other day.  I'm getting ready to submit for basic approval so this was something that was on my mind.  I will not have the problem of a shim, but a friend of mine will so that's part of the reason I'm asking.   Thank you again, brother

[darthRivera[501st]]

Thank you all, I made some corrections and updated the photos. And thanks for the tips for the next level, I learned a lot today.

 

Now I can only wait for the final verdict. 

 

 

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

4 minutes ago, darthRivera said:

Thank you all, I made some corrections and updated the photos. And thanks for the tips for the next level, I learned a lot today.

 

Now I can only wait for the final verdict. 

 

 

Nice job on those fixes, Michael!  I see an EIB badge below your name soon, Trooper.

[Sly11[Admin]]

Hi Michael, sorry for the delay, we are looking at your armour and reviewing currently, wont be too much longer.

[Sly11[Admin]]

Hi Michael

Before we go through the motions of your full review, there is something that stands out that will need to be address for a successful EI approval.

Your armour looks great and the helmet paint job is fantastic, but your side shims will  need to be installed correctly.

As per the CRL for EIB we are efering to the last section I have underlined

 

For level two certification (if applicable)

•  
  • Any shims used to achieve this effect are of a similar material and color as the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims fit flush and seams are allowed.

The shims must sit flush with the surface of the kidney plate, where you currently have yours mounted behind.

 

 

 

To mount the side shims flush, you can employ the same method as is used on the limbs, but joint and cover strip. In this case the cover strip is on the inside and not visible, the join is on the outside and is visible. This becomes what is called a seam, and does not need to be filled for EI, but will need to be for a future Centurion application.

There are many build threads  that show how to make the side shims, so have a read through some of them to get the right idea.

Once you have made the correction, please post up a new left and right image and new close ups.

Thanks again for your patience Michael, you are very close my friend, just this one modification and you are done.

 

 

 

[darthRivera[501st]]

Thank you. I will make the corrections as soon as possible.

 

Edited August 31, 2017 by darthRivera

[darthRivera[501st]]

Okay, analyzing my problem. The shims are almost well aligned. The kidney plate curve is the problem.

 

 

Edited September 1, 2017 by darthRivera

[darthRivera[501st]]

Delete: Fail modifications

 

Edited September 2, 2017 by darthRivera
Error

[Sly11[Admin]]

The problem was not so much that the top edge was out, its the fact that your shims are mounted or glued behind the kidney plate. They need to be flush with it. If you glued another piece of ABS over the entire part that you can see on both sides, then the whole shim is flush with the outer surface. I am looking for an image that can explain it visually so it makes sense.

 

Ok here we are.

 

 

[darthRivera[501st]]

4 hours ago, Sly11 said:

The problem was not so much that the top edge was out, its the fact that your shims are mounted or glued behind the kidney plate. They need to be flush with it. If you glued another piece of ABS over the entire part that you can see on both sides, then the whole shim is flush with the outer surface. I am looking for an image that can explain it visually so it makes sense.

 

 

 

 

I think I understood the problem well. I am afraid to put at risk the integrity of armor for that correction, I will analyze well how to do it. If I see there are problems I prefer to cancel my request. This weekend I will work on this, thank you very much.

Edited September 1, 2017 by darthRivera
Format

[troopermaster]

Genuine question for the staff: How do you fill the seam on a PVC armour?

 

I fully understand your desire to make a seamless shim but if you allow a visible seam, it will prevent a lot of work (sometimes ruining the part) and the wearer can remove it later if they lose weight. I'm not trying to rock the boat here but I strongly disagree with you guys forcing people to blend the seams.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Hey Paul we appreciate expert armors like yourself following our approval threads. As mentioned this is an approval thread, not a discussion thread posed to staffers regarding requests and decisions we make, or current CRL requirements. If you have a concern please post it in the staff section where the rest of the staff can also respond, let's not derail Michael's, or any other applicants application. In the future please refrain from making such posts on EIB or Centurion threads.

 

Thank you. 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Hey Michael, we understand your concern regarding proper shim installation Andrew is suggesting. Though he mentioned ABS I'm sure what he meant was the process of creating one seam, not necessarily using ABS paste on PVC. Before anyone knew about ABS paste there was the lingering question "How do we accomplish this?". We're always looking for pioneers to pave the way, maybe that's you, who knows. If you Google plastic repair there's a whole host of ways to fill in seams on different types of plastic however, as we always state "the accuracy of the armor is ultimately up to you".  

[darthRivera[501st]]

Ok, let's see if I have better luck.

 

In the end, the solution I found to not damage the armor was to place a piece of plastic on my shims. The thickness of the piece I used was almost accurate to fit the thickness of the kidney plate.

 

 

Inside, it does not show much, because I adjusted the size to shim that was already.

 

 

This side was a bit more complicated because I had to remove the snaps. But I only made holes in the new piece of plastic in the same position of the shim that was already.

 

 

 

In both cases I had to apply some white glossy paint with a brush because the new piece had a shade of yellowish white.

 

Then I am waiting for approval of this modification. Thank you very much for the time and apologies for the delay.

 

 

[Sly11[Admin]]

Tha'ts it mate, exactly the fix we were looking for. Will get onto completing your review.