Ensi[TK] Posted September 2, 2017 Author Report Posted September 2, 2017 1 minute ago, JAFO said: Daniel ... this is draft excluder. You'll recall I used the rubber version under my pauldron for protection Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro So basically the strips of stuff you can use to seal up windows/doors/whatever? That's genius!! Quote
JAFO[TK] Posted September 2, 2017 Report Posted September 2, 2017 So basically the strips of stuff you can use to seal up windows/doors/whatever? That's genius!! Yep. There is also adhesive neoprene that is used for sound proofing car but but usually available in white. The draft excluder is gold. That rubbing point you gave us the same for me on Jim's kit - right in the centre of the ab about halfway down.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted September 2, 2017 Report Posted September 2, 2017 2 minutes ago, Ensi said: So basically the strips of stuff you can use to seal up windows/doors/whatever? That's genius!! Exactly Quote
Ensi[TK] Posted September 9, 2017 Author Report Posted September 9, 2017 (edited) You know you are painting a TK when your shoes look like this! Been busy sanding, painting, lint-removing, clearcoating, and cursing the past few weeks. The tent really helps, but sadly there's been a lot of rain so it's made things challenging. I'm trucking on and the time of day doesn't stop me, so I am even painting at night. Must look really weird to my neighbors seeing me going out into my tent wearing this to paint.. Noticed some cracks starting to form in the ab: It's not really noticeable, but I wanted to prevent further cracking so I added some fibreglass mat and resin to the backside to kill some of the flex. I also plan to get into the ab section by lowering it down over my head instead of flexing it around my body. Also noticed some cracks on the yoke and codpiece, going to just apply some epoxy to the backside on these. Done with clearcoating most of the parts, i'm doing it as fast as I can as the temperature is starting to drop towards winter. What i've found to be really helpful is to have a spreadsheet of what parts you have done this and that to. Only some parts left now! Window/door seal strips have been purchased and is gonna go on the shoulder bells and other various areas on the armor where it rubs the most, tips on other places where to put it is appreciated! Other things: The maker of my 3D printed F-11D/SE-44C kit told me the shipment had been lost and he is printing a new one, just hope it is soon. Also ordered a Heston blaster and pistol on the sick sale he had, had to get a US friend to order it as he doesn't ship internationally. 240l Stanley chest has been purchased and is on its way from the UK! TRamp has been ordered and i've also received my wireless mic kit from eBay. Edited September 9, 2017 by Ensi 1 Quote
Ensi[TK] Posted September 12, 2017 Author Report Posted September 12, 2017 Just when you think you're almost done... Paint failed on me on the ab-boxes. I think it was a combination of humidity, applying too thick of a coat, and not long enough flash time for the underlying coat. Paint has bubbled up and seems to have lifted the paint. It's super soft in these areas and would NOT hold up to the wetsanding (to remove orange peel) that i'm planning to do. Back to the sandpaper and rattle cans! Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted September 12, 2017 Report Posted September 12, 2017 That's a blow, at least it's only a case of sanding and applying paint again. It's the reason I went with an automotive acrylic paint, don't seem to have as many problems compared to the Krylon and Rustoleum type paints, too many horror stories with those. Quote
Ensi[TK] Posted September 13, 2017 Author Report Posted September 13, 2017 20 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said: That's a blow, at least it's only a case of sanding and applying paint again. It's the reason I went with an automotive acrylic paint, don't seem to have as many problems compared to the Krylon and Rustoleum type paints, too many horror stories with those. Yeah it's not really a big problem, others have had WAY worse. The paint I used is an acrylic too but more "all purpose use". Been absolutely perfect no problems except this Quote
Tee-Kay Fisto[TK] Posted September 16, 2017 Report Posted September 16, 2017 This is a fantastic build. I've just started researching FOTK builds of Jim's kit as I'm about to pull the trigger on buying one. Anovos obviously did their usual and started with their first of probably many delays of the FOTK kit. This is going to be a goldmine of information for me. Thanks for putting together such a great thread. And congratulations on taking your first build into the legion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Quote
Ensi[TK] Posted September 16, 2017 Author Report Posted September 16, 2017 4 hours ago, Bri_McD135 said: This is a fantastic build. I've just started researching FOTK builds of Jim's kit as I'm about to pull the trigger on buying one. Anovos obviously did their usual and started with their first of probably many delays of the FOTK kit. This is going to be a goldmine of information for me. Thanks for putting together such a great thread. And congratulations on taking your first build into the legion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thanks! I wanted this build thread to be as if I were to build an FOTK myself for the first time And shame about Anovos.. I think Jim is going to get a few more orders right about now haha. 1 Quote
Ensi[TK] Posted September 18, 2017 Author Report Posted September 18, 2017 So turns out my "paint bubbling" wasn't bad paint, it was the flexible fibreglass layer that was super super thin in that spot and it cracked, so I ripped what I could out: Filled it: Sanded it back: After painting it I noticed paint failure just above the same spot, sigh Didn't even bother to prime this area, just did several light coats: All my parts are now cleared! Woo! About my wetsanding of the clear: The amount of orange peel I get from my spraycans, non-optimal conditions, and inexperience means that I have to sand back a LOT of material to get it flat. Tried it on some pieces and almost always hit through the color and into the primer, so i've decided to not wetsand the clear. Under better conditions and temps I could lay down heavier coats of clear and have more material to work with, but it's almost winter so that'll eventually come later. I really hope the clear will provide better protection for the paint during troops. Really a shame because the wetsanded parts looks sooooooo good Removed my ab straps because there was water trapped underneath the masking and it was left for several days, started to smell funky. Looking into a different way to do the harness right now, thinking about adding snaps for removability. Also made a shoulder support system without drilling holes in the yoke. I'm afraid it'll compromise the structural integrity. Heatbended some ABS plastic and E6K'd them into place. I will see how this will hold up, maybe make some metal ones as suggested by someone on the Jim FB build group. Before: After: Started adding the decals back, these i'm cutting out of vinyl car wrap I got from eBay. Blaster has yet to arrive.. Quote
JAFO[TK] Posted September 18, 2017 Report Posted September 18, 2017 Mate...you've had a bad run with that ab but you've totally nailed the restoration - great job!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Quote
Ensi[TK] Posted September 18, 2017 Author Report Posted September 18, 2017 2 minutes ago, JAFO said: Mate...you've had a bad run with that ab but you've totally nailed the restoration - great job! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Thanks, was really discouraging at the time but when life gives you thin fibreglass rip that #%&* out and fill it back up! I am noticing a spot in the same area with the same problem, i'm just not going to touch it 1 Quote
JAFO[TK] Posted September 18, 2017 Report Posted September 18, 2017 Thanks, was really discouraging at the time but when life gives you thin fibreglass rip that #%&* out and fill it back up! I am noticing a spot in the same area with the same problem, i'm just not going to touch it You just never know what you're going to get as each pull is different. A little frustrating but if there's one thing I've learnt on this journey, repairs and maintenance feel as ongoing as the build!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Quote
Ghollum[TK] Posted September 21, 2017 Report Posted September 21, 2017 Hey Daniel...so just starting here..primer..spray roller or brush? I'm using brush but it's leaving Brissel trails...?Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote
Ensi[TK] Posted September 21, 2017 Author Report Posted September 21, 2017 Hey Daniel...so just starting here..primer..spray roller or brush? I'm using brush but it's leaving Brissel trails...?Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk I wouldn't use a brush as you leave brushmarks like that. I only used spray paint for the entire build. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk Quote
Ghollum[TK] Posted September 21, 2017 Report Posted September 21, 2017 Cool.ill sand back these and spray ..cheers fellaSent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote
Ghollum[TK] Posted September 21, 2017 Report Posted September 21, 2017 Cool.ill sand back these and spray ..cheers fellaSent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote
Big Deal Posted September 21, 2017 Report Posted September 21, 2017 How have you found the locktite and e6000 to be adhering to the fibreglass? I'm hoping to start a fibreglass build soon, but wasn't sure how the glue would hold up. I've heard of others using Cyanoacrylate Adhesives, but I'd rather use something a little more forgiving if possible. Your snaps are adhering well to the fibreglass so far? Quote
heartstopper85[TK] Posted September 21, 2017 Report Posted September 21, 2017 1 hour ago, Hankey said: How have you found the locktite and e6000 to be adhering to the fibreglass? I'm hoping to start a fibreglass build soon, but wasn't sure how the glue would hold up. I've heard of others using Cyanoacrylate Adhesives, but I'd rather use something a little more forgiving if possible. Your snaps are adhering well to the fibreglass so far? E6k works well on fiberglass kits. My shore is Jim's fiberglass kit. Just make sure you have clamps and give it time to set (like 24 hrs or more) E6k you can still remove parts if you need to as opposed to using something like Zap a gap Quote
Ensi[TK] Posted September 21, 2017 Author Report Posted September 21, 2017 2 hours ago, Hankey said: How have you found the locktite and e6000 to be adhering to the fibreglass? I'm hoping to start a fibreglass build soon, but wasn't sure how the glue would hold up. I've heard of others using Cyanoacrylate Adhesives, but I'd rather use something a little more forgiving if possible. Your snaps are adhering well to the fibreglass so far? Both the 5min and 4hour Loctite Epoxies i've used are rock solid, haven't had an issue with them but would recommend using the 4hour if you have the time. E6000 works really well with the fibreglass as Dustin said, and only way it is coming off is if you WANT it to. Clamp it down/use magnets if you can and leave it alone for 24 hours. When I removed my ab harness I really had to work to get it off haha. Snaps are not going anywhere. I've also used a lot of the Loctite 60sec Universal Glue (which is cyanoacrylate based) and with enough force you can get it off too. As with any glue, surface preparation is key. On the shin boxes/holster/greeblies/external parts I roughed up both surfaces with 60grit, etched some marks with a file/sharp object, and cleaned with IPA (as in rubbing alcohol and not the beer ). For the snaps I already sanded all of the insides when I got the kit so it's good. Quote
Ghollum[TK] Posted September 21, 2017 Report Posted September 21, 2017 Only put a primer on. Mate advised on a ind glue..he works in a boatyard using fibreglass.waiting on snaps and straps to arrive.ordered e6 as well .have my kit a month so about time I got my an impolite person in gear..Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote
Ensi[TK] Posted September 23, 2017 Author Report Posted September 23, 2017 (edited) Blacked out the inside of my bucket today with some spray rubber. Didn't use PlastiDip because the place that sells it here is always out of stock. Some seams on the outside of my Anovos helmet were kind of big, so I made sure to put masking tape as well as I could in them to prevent the spray rubber from oozing out. And it worked! Masked off: A few coats: After: Looks like a proper helmet now! Going to let it cure for a few days before I add the velcro for the padding, fans, and the wireless mic. Went with 4 coats as per can instructions. Received my Stanley chest, 240 litres! Not sure if this will be too big for me or not, we'll see. Also pimped it out with some patches and reflective tape: Edited September 23, 2017 by Ensi 1 Quote
JAFO[TK] Posted September 23, 2017 Report Posted September 23, 2017 Looks great Daniel!Deadening the bucket interior with black is such a worthwhile mod for so many reasons.And with a tote that size you should get EVERYTHING in it including bucket and blasters. It means no extra bags. I love mine!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro 1 Quote
heartstopper85[TK] Posted September 25, 2017 Report Posted September 25, 2017 What's the benefits of making the interior black? Just curious I've done it just because people said to but haven't done it on my new Anovos bucket yet Quote
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