rig24 Posted August 29, 2021 Author Report Posted August 29, 2021 Absolutely you can sell them here. Or possibly try offering them up on your local garrison boards also. IB makes great boots. The trick is order One size up. You're getting there! Good Luck Future Trooper!I don't seem to have access to the sales pages here, will try the local garrison. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk Quote
TheDecisiveRaindrop[TK] Posted August 29, 2021 Report Posted August 29, 2021 43 minutes ago, rig24 said: I don't seem to have access to the sales pages here, will try the local garrison. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk Try selling them here, this is the personal items section which is open to everyone. The sales section you went to is for 501st merchandise. 1 Quote
rig24 Posted August 29, 2021 Author Report Posted August 29, 2021 Try selling them here, this is the personal items section which is open to everyone. The sales section you went to is for 501st merchandise.Thank you, posted. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk Quote
rig24 Posted February 5, 2023 Author Report Posted February 5, 2023 (edited) Looking to find an accurate template for the helmet paint. I was on trooper bay and they suggested "Dave M" decals. I would like to have actual paint though. Can someone recommend which templates would be accurate for an ATA helmet? Edited February 5, 2023 by rig24 Quote
MaskedVengeance[Staff] Posted February 5, 2023 Report Posted February 5, 2023 Hi Rob! Trooperbay does have some general stencils which can be used for the tube stripes, but really there’s not much benefit to having them for the traps (masking tape works just as well). I’m on my phone right now without a direct link to the web listing, but I’m sure I linked to them on my ATA build thread. Also on the first post of my thread I link to a PDF document of my build thread and at the beginning of that I have a whole section of every item/supply/ tool I used, as well as a purchase link. That being said, Trooperbay also changed their website so I’m not sure if my old links will work (I plan to update them at some point). Hope this helps! Quote
rig24 Posted February 5, 2023 Author Report Posted February 5, 2023 5 minutes ago, MaskedVengeance said: Hi Rob! Trooperbay does have some general stencils which can be used for the tube stripes, but really there’s not much benefit to having them for the traps (masking tape works just as well). I’m on my phone right now without a direct link to the web listing, but I’m sure I linked to them on my ATA build thread. Also on the first post of my thread I link to a PDF document of my build thread and at the beginning of that I have a whole section of every item/supply/ tool I used, as well as a purchase link. That being said, Trooperbay also changed their website so I’m not sure if my old links will work (I plan to update them at some point). Hope this helps! Thats great Caleb, much appreciated. I'll pull up your thread. Quote
rig24 Posted February 10, 2023 Author Report Posted February 10, 2023 Looking to re-purchase the boots from Imperial Boots. Noticed they have a neck seal, does anyone know about the quality of it compared to Trooper Bay? Quote
MaskedVengeance[Staff] Posted February 10, 2023 Report Posted February 10, 2023 24 minutes ago, rig24 said: Looking to re-purchase the boots from Imperial Boots. Noticed they have a neck seal, does anyone know about the quality of it compared to Trooper Bay? I cannot personaly speak to the quality of the IB neckseal, or that from Trooperbay, but I have been very pleased with the one I got from Darman. It is very commonly used by TKs, and can be found on Etsy or on Darman's website. Someday I'd also love to get one from Teresa @Soulart; here's her stuff. Quote
rig24 Posted May 29, 2023 Author Report Posted May 29, 2023 Looking to get some feedback on the stripes. I used some templates, not sure if I need to redo, touchup or if it is a good hand painted look?Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted May 29, 2023 Report Posted May 29, 2023 They are a little on the messy side, I think I would go over again. A good tip when using templates is to give a coat of white first, that way if there is any bleed through it is filled with white and not blue. 2 Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted May 30, 2023 Report Posted May 30, 2023 Glen is spot on about using the white paint before the blue. I have a tutorial here that may help. Quote
rig24 Posted June 9, 2023 Author Report Posted June 9, 2023 Brow height good? I want to lock it in if it's goodSent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk Quote
Sly11[Admin] Posted June 10, 2023 Report Posted June 10, 2023 If anything perhaps a touch too high, drop it a few mm and take another photo please. 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted June 10, 2023 Report Posted June 10, 2023 23 minutes ago, rig24 said: Brow height good? I want to lock it in if it's good Personally I would drop it down a little just to straighten the curved appearance, looks very Sandtrooper with the higher brow Sandy 1 Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted June 10, 2023 Report Posted June 10, 2023 It could very well be the photo, but to me it seems that the cap is riding a little too high on the front of the face plate which is causing the brow to sit that far up, giving an elongated look to the overall appearance. If this is indeed the case, it's a fairly easy job to change the position by altering the location of the rivets (we can help with this). Can you post up some side-view photos? Thanks!! Quote
rig24 Posted June 10, 2023 Author Report Posted June 10, 2023 Lowered brow. I took pics of the side and realized that the left is further away from the eyes than the right. Guessing I need to adjust?Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk 1 Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted June 11, 2023 Report Posted June 11, 2023 Thanks for the photos, Rob! I think you have the brow height spot-on. EXCELLENT! As for the side adjustment, since you haven't attached the ears yet I would shift the faceplate to the left just a tad, which should line it up perfectly. Another reason to do this is so that hopefully your bottom ear screw can be inserted through the bottom of both the face plate and cap, keeping them in place. You got the angle of the face plate set in a great position, so be sure to just realign the sides without changing that. Having equal space on both sides will help. NICE!!! Keep up the awesome job, sir! Looking forward to seeing your results! 1 Quote
rig24 Posted June 11, 2023 Author Report Posted June 11, 2023 Thanks for the photos, Rob! I think you have the brow height spot-on. EXCELLENT! As for the side adjustment, since you haven't attached the ears yet I would shift the faceplate to the left just a tad, which should line it up perfectly. Another reason to do this is so that hopefully your bottom ear screw can be inserted through the bottom of both the face plate and cap, keeping them in place. You got the angle of the face plate set in a great position, so be sure to just realign the sides without changing that. Having equal space on both sides will help. NICE!!! Keep up the awesome job, sir! Looking forward to seeing your results!Thanks for the feedback. Not happy that I need to adjust, but saw it coming when I noticed the gap at the bottom. Any tips on how to best to fill the soon to be unused screw holes? I was thinking dry wall spackle. Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted June 11, 2023 Report Posted June 11, 2023 Some of that gap may be covered by your ears and S trim so check those before you get too far along making changes Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted June 12, 2023 Report Posted June 12, 2023 The holes in the cap (red circle) can stay just where they are, it's just a matter of drilling new ones in the faceplate underneath (orange arrow) after shifting it into the new position. Since it looks like it only needs to be rotated about a 1/4 inch or so you shouldn't have any additional holes to cover. As Glen mentioned, the ears will cover them anyway as seen in the screen used example. If you have the overlap at the bottom, a rivet at the bottom will help keep it in place while you work on the ear placement. 1 Quote
rig24 Posted June 12, 2023 Author Report Posted June 12, 2023 The holes in the cap (red circle) can stay just where they are, it's just a matter of drilling new ones in the faceplate underneath (orange arrow) after shifting it into the new position. Since it looks like it only needs to be rotated about a 1/4 inch or so you shouldn't have any additional holes to cover. As Glen mentioned, the ears will cover them anyway as seen in the screen used example. If you have the overlap at the bottom, a rivet at the bottom will help keep it in place while you work on the ear placement. Is riveting preferred for screws?Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted June 12, 2023 Report Posted June 12, 2023 2 hours ago, rig24 said: Is riveting preferred for screws? It's really up to you, I like using threaded screws/nuts, just helps if you want to make any fines adjustments, drilling out rivets are a pain, rivets are just what was used on the originals. 1 Quote
rig24 Posted June 13, 2023 Author Report Posted June 13, 2023 How's this look before I drill it in?Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted June 13, 2023 Report Posted June 13, 2023 Looks like you nailed it, Rob.. awesome job! Note the space between the bottoms of the yellow lines is almost identical on both sides but the ones on your left side overlap that last tube stripe (red arrow). I would remove that one. The reason being is that it may sit under or partially under the ear and there should be a gap (even a small one). Also, you have 15 on the right and 16 on the left. Quote
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