68Brick[TK] Posted May 15, 2017 Report Posted May 15, 2017 (edited) Well Troopers, my AP Stunt TK has been serving me well, so I thought it might be time for an accessory. The Spacepack is a relatively easy addition, as it needs very little modification to my existing TK setup. The Spacepack is 3d Printed (from CrookKknight) and I received it in the mail a few days ago (fast shipping, Thanks Shawn!). Sorry, I forgot to take a BBB day picture. Regardless, the kit looks great and I'll try to capture what's required to build, finish, and wear this pack in this thread. This is my first 3D printed anything, so there might be some trial-and-error while completing this build. I hope to keep the error to a minimum, but you know. If you do have any 3D printing tips feel free to share!!! So ... how about some pics!?! The whole kit... Close up... Cylinders... Other side... Through the main body... Texture... (going to have to sand and fill, and fill and sand) Keep you posted! Edited July 27, 2017 by 68Brick 3 Quote
CrookKnight[TK] Posted May 15, 2017 Report Posted May 15, 2017 Cool. Following closely. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk 1 Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted May 15, 2017 Report Posted May 15, 2017 Cool. Following closely. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk Me too! (Can't wait to receive mine, hint hint, nudge nudge, LOL). DANG I am excited! How are you planning on attaching it to the back plate? I bought an extra one from ATA just for that, but am interested in other methods as well as I think it may be difficult to get suited up without assistance if it is permanently attached. Quote
CrookKnight[TK] Posted May 15, 2017 Report Posted May 15, 2017 Me too! (Can't wait to receive mine, hint hint, nudge nudge, LOL). DANG I am excited! How are you planning on attaching it to the back plate? I bought an extra one from ATA just for that, but am interested in other methods as well as I think it may be difficult to get suited up without assistance if it is permanently attached. I have some different ideas myself about attaching to back plate. Also, Joseph I'm getting ready to start yours I'm just finishing up another. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk 1 Quote
68Brick[TK] Posted May 15, 2017 Author Report Posted May 15, 2017 Me too! (Can't wait to receive mine, hint hint, nudge nudge, LOL). DANG I am excited! How are you planning on attaching it to the back plate? I bought an extra one from ATA just for that, but am interested in other methods as well as I think it may be difficult to get suited up without assistance if it is permanently attached. I'm going to attempt magnets. I like the idea of a clean install with no additional (visible) strapping. I'm hoping to construct a removable plate that would be temporary affixed (via Velcro) to the inside of my existing AP back plate. This plate would possibly have two threaded "things" (heavy thread like a light bulb or something (No, I'm not using a light bulb, just picture the threads)) that would have magnets glued to the ends of them. I'm hoping that I could unscrew the "things" and that would break the bond between the magnets, allowing the backpack to be removed. This is all theory at this point as I haven't mocked anything up, or sourced threaded fittings that would be appropriate. The entire Spacepack will be very light, but If I find that the weight of it is pulling on my back plate in a negative way, I'm thinking of a strap that would be riveted to my removable plate and could be clipped around my chest, pulling the back plate tight to my body. Again, only theory. To get dressed (& undressed), I currently put on my torso as one assembled unit, so I'm hoping that I could do the same with Spacepack already attached. Then "snap" on the hose (again with magnets). Might still need two people, but we'll see. Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted May 15, 2017 Report Posted May 15, 2017 I'm interested to find out how the hose connects to the vocoder area.. Looking at the whole thing, the details are simply incredible. Quote
68Brick[TK] Posted June 20, 2017 Author Report Posted June 20, 2017 (edited) Progress has been slower than anticipated, but there is Progress! I've been manually filling (wood filler & Loctite gel glue) and sanding (wood block, foam block, folded sandpaper, files); things are getting smoother, but there there are still holes to fill and edges to shape. I've used XTC-3D on some of the pieces that really needed some heavy surface smoothing, and everything else is in filler-primer. I expect that I'll need to use some more XTC and filler-primer after another round of sanding. After that, I'll probably be ready for a dry assemble and test fit. I'll most likely be reinforcing the back plate with some aluminumat this time too, to add some strength from flexing. Once I'm satisfied with the fit and finish, I'll move on to mounting and painting. Time for some progress pics... Initial filling... Filled and Sanded ... XTC-3D Applied ... Filler Primer ... Edited July 27, 2017 by 68Brick Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted June 20, 2017 Report Posted June 20, 2017 (edited) Keep those photos coming, Brad! I get mine this Friday, and will be following your build. I have a few questions if I may.. 1. What color are you using for the vertical cylinders? 2. What areas did you need to use filler in? 3 Could you post a few close-up pics of the cylinders and the edges of the backplate? (below) Thanks!! ------------ Edited July 10, 2021 by gmrhodes13 link not working removed Quote
68Brick[TK] Posted June 21, 2017 Author Report Posted June 21, 2017 (edited) I’ll be watching your build Joseph as well. I haven’t picked a colour for the vertical cylinders yet. I’ll most likely be colour matching them (from a photo of the toy) to an automotive paint. My local Auto Paint supply shop will make spray cans in any colour, and the product is superior to any off the shelf stuff. Sprays evenly and lays out smooth. I'll let you know what colour I come up with. I needed to add filler to any areas showing “3D-printing-end-grain”, like the main body cylinder end caps and rockets. I also needed to add filler on the long thin angular pipe. You can see it in the pics I posted yesterday(beige stuff). I do need to add some additional filler on the vertical cylinders to clean up some edges. More pics below… You can see I've still got some sanding to do, and there's a hole that I've got to fill at the top... I plan to add filler and sand these ribs to make them smooth. The top side is smooth already. This is a pic of the bottom side of the ribs. You can also see the 3D waves in the sidewall of the cylinder. I will most likely not be able to completely remove these, but I'm ok with the look. I will be sanding them some more though. A little more sanding and filling required here... My camera had a hard time focusing in on this, but it shows that the XTC-3D did smooth this area. It was my first time ever using the product and I'm happy with it. I need a second application in a couple areas on the back plate where I missed applying it or applied it too thinly. I think the XTC really helped smooth areas that are impossible to sand, so I'm happy with the progress. The XTC has yet to be sanded too ... so it's only going to get smoother! I'm temped to use it on some other parts to remove 3D grain, but I'll see how the back plate sands before I go too crazy with the stuff. Edited July 27, 2017 by 68Brick Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted June 21, 2017 Report Posted June 21, 2017 Many thanks for the info., Brad! "My local Auto Paint supply shop will make spray cans in any colour..." - GREAT idea! " I'll let you know what colour I come up with". - Much appreciated. " You can also see the 3D waves in the sidewall of the cylinder". - I actually like the look of those.... gives it a bit of character. The XTC 3D comes in 6 and 24 oz. sizes.. how much do you think it will take for the whole build? Is the gray color on the cylinders in the above photos primer or the XTC? Quote
68Brick[TK] Posted June 21, 2017 Author Report Posted June 21, 2017 I like the waves too. They're getting one more sand and then they're ready for paint. The XTC goes a long way. I don't plan on using it on everything so the 6oz kit I have should be enough. The gray color is the filler-primer. Quote
CrookKnight[TK] Posted June 21, 2017 Report Posted June 21, 2017 Love watching this. I have not seen someone take the smoothness of the pack to this detail. I have also got some of the XTC 3D that I am going to use on my next finished Space Pack. I will have to add it as a recommendation to my kit for people. I will follow both your build and Joseph's build to see what changes I can possible make to improve the final product. I have the 3D printer(s) set to the highest of detail. Only so much I can do with PLA. There are other options such as Resin 3D printing, but the pack would cost over $1000 if I used that method. 1 Quote
68Brick[TK] Posted July 21, 2017 Author Report Posted July 21, 2017 Update ... I've used the XTC on the vertical cylinders, the main body, and some of the smaller pieces. Everything is now smooth, primed and sanded to 320 grit. I've colour matched the white colour needed for the main cylinder to the white colour of my armour (that was one won't look whiter than the other), and have found an appropriate colour for the vertical cylinders. I have also purchased some epoxy clear paint for a durable final finish. The clear is needed as I am using base/clear paint like a car. I purchased 2 clears, shiny for the white main body, and semi-gloss for the vertical cylinders, as it looks like that's the way the toy is. Next step is to dry fit all the pieces and affix some elements on to the main body. Once everything fits together, I will be cutting the black tubes to size and work out mounting to my back plate. Then comes paint. Pics to some once I determine my Photobucket replacement. Quote
68Brick[TK] Posted July 28, 2017 Author Report Posted July 28, 2017 Weird ... my last post from a couple days ago is missing. Gonna have to re-post it. Quote
68Brick[TK] Posted July 28, 2017 Author Report Posted July 28, 2017 Reposting my update pics. Dry fit. Main body and back plate need one more coat of primer. Everything is smooth... I ended up finding brass cable stops and used them as threaded inserts into the main body. Looks clean and holds really strong. Two different lengths of screws were required and I glued washers to the backside of the back plate for reinforcement around the holes. I'm working on the mounting to the Stormtrooper back plate now and will move on to cutting the black flex-pipes to length. Once complete, I'll du a full dry assemble and wear the whole thing around to find any issues. Then comes paint and final assembly. Quote
Daetrin[Admin] Posted July 29, 2017 Report Posted July 29, 2017 It's coming along nicely - well done. Quote
68Brick[TK] Posted August 8, 2017 Author Report Posted August 8, 2017 (edited) Here's the back plate ready to receive magnets. Aluminum bracing already glued in place with E6000. Washers are for reinforcement of the holes that mount the main canister to the back plate. This pic is pre-XTC coverage. Here's how I'm retaining the clear cylinder inside the main body; a magnet in the end of the body cap and a magnet in the end cap of the clear cylinder. The flexible black hose that runs from the main body to the thin white intermediate tube has to bend 90 degrees in a short distance, and that puts a lot of pressure on the leg holding the intermediate tube on. I bent a piece of aluminum to make the shape and take the load. I then slipped on the black tubing and fill the ends with wood plugs. Those provide a good gluing surface. Painting has begun ... Oh, and back to the magnets, I ended up using two bar magnets, five 1" rare earth magnets, and six 3/4" rare earth magnets to mount the backpate to the storm trooper backplate. No slots or strapping from the Spacetrooper backplate required. I can shake my backplate like crazy and hold it horizontal ... the spacepack stays put. No Movement. There are two bar magnets and three stacked 1" magnets in the spacetrooper backplate. I created two separate panels that go behind my stormtrooper backplate. One has six 3/4" magnets that are aligned with the two bar magnets. The other has two 1" magnets stacked. You can't pull the panels off, but you can slide them off. I'll post pics up when I take them. I expect to have this ready in the next week or so. Edited August 8, 2017 by 68Brick Quote
68Brick[TK] Posted September 27, 2017 Author Report Posted September 27, 2017 Ok All, I've got it to the point where it's ready for a Con (this weekend). The magnets hold strong and the paint looks good. Here's where I am... Helmet I wanted to make an aluminum bracket (and I probably still will), but for now, it's some scrap ABS and a piece of bent coat hanger that holds the mouthpiece on. It works. Quote
68Brick[TK] Posted September 27, 2017 Author Report Posted September 27, 2017 Here's the pack... Internal Cylinder Greeblies from my local electronic supply store and a hard drive I took apart. It's home... Rubber feet and two magnets hold it in place. The bottom (brutal to paint btw) Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted September 27, 2017 Report Posted September 27, 2017 Most impressive, great work Quote
68Brick[TK] Posted September 27, 2017 Author Report Posted September 27, 2017 (edited) Attachment points... 4 screws and E6000. Magnets visible for attaching to Stormtrooper backplate. Backplate attached...Two plates glued together by ABS cross bar that is held in place by industrial velcro and the plates rest on ans abs shelf. Magnet Plates Edited September 28, 2017 by 68Brick Quote
68Brick[TK] Posted September 27, 2017 Author Report Posted September 27, 2017 And inside the vertical cylinders, i went with a crystal theme (also there is a crystal right in the middle fo the main body cylinder). Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.