Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So...when I got the space pack in the mail, one of the parts broke. They don't seem to line up correctly anymore. Thoughts on how to fix?

 

WP_20170507_006.jpg

 

Also, the back plate came with magnets that I'm hoping are strong enough to mount. However, I don't want to damage my TM backplate so am hoping someone has a spare TM front/back/straps they can part with. Else I'll try to see if I can get TM to ship me out extras...

 

WP_20170507_005.jpg

Posted (edited)
On 5/8/2017 at 1:33 AM, Daetrin said:

So...when I got the space pack in the mail, one of the parts broke. They don't seem to line up correctly anymore. Thoughts on how to fix?

 

-------

 

Also, the back plate came with magnets that I'm hoping are strong enough to mount. However, I don't want to damage my TM backplate so am hoping someone has a spare TM front/back/straps they can part with. Else I'll try to see if I can get TM to ship me out extras...

 

--------

Do you want me to just send you a new piece? I can send it to you at no cost.

 

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

Edited by gmrhodes13
link not working removed
  • Like 1
Posted

Sure, if that's easiest. The rest of it is safe/sound. Until I get a spare back plate, I can work on fixing it. Question: how well did the magnets hold up for you? Did you have any issues with it pulling stuff down?

 

My other thought is to have just a single separate back that can still connect to my front like normal, but also have a harness to ensure it doesn't get pulled down.

Posted

I ordered a separate back plate from ATA.  This way, when I get the space pack I can pretty much permanently affix it to the plate and switch it out easily as needed.

Posted

I thought about that, but am not sure how well the plastic will match with TM?

Posted

Sure, if that's easiest. The rest of it is safe/sound. Until I get a spare back plate, I can work on fixing it. Question: how well did the magnets hold up for you? Did you have any issues with it pulling stuff down?

 

My other thought is to have just a single separate back that can still connect to my front like normal, but also have a harness to ensure it doesn't get pulled down.

I am going to send you another one.

 

As for the backplate, the magnets work fine, except that I am always nervous that the pack is going to fall off.  I have an idea and will draw it up and attach it here to see what you think, but I think it will work really well.

Posted

I am going to send you another one.

 

As for the backplate, the magnets work fine, except that I am always nervous that the pack is going to fall off.  I have an idea and will draw it up and attach it here to see what you think, but I think it will work really well.

Looking forward to this!!!   :popcorn:

Posted (edited)

Hey brother, if you look at this photo you can see there is a silver mating piece where the break occurred on the pack you made. My suggestion is to perhaps have a silver gasket or similar that can take some stress from a bend in the updated design.

e5a520ed-9fdc-4b76-8c8a-285ad1fdedc8_zpswt6vjjoo.jpg.f61f5009ae79939f9d539bf7faed9b41.jpg

 

post-2-0-83735900-1494178358_thumb.jpg

Edited by gmrhodes13
photo updated
Posted (edited)
On 5/9/2017 at 4:16 AM, Daetrin said:

Hey brother, if you look at this photo you can see there is a silver mating piece where the break occurred on the pack you made. My suggestion is to perhaps have a silver gasket or similar that can take some stress from a bend in the updated design.

 

Good idea. It looks like it definitely needs some more bracing underneath it to keep it from cracking. I will get it designed and print one and send it with your replacement.

 

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

Edited by gmrhodes13
updated text
Posted

After taking a closer look at it, I am going to add a brace to the top left portion of the white tube that goes up at an angle.  In addition, the black tube that connects the pipe coming out of the main cylinder to the white pipe that cracked is going to be made of printed material.  This will help transfer the load thruought the pack and not just on a single piece.  As soon as I get it redesigned, I will send you these replacement pieces.  

 

Thank you for the advice.

Posted

Printing the last part for the fix.  Going to strengthen it by allowing a 3/4" pvc tube go through these pieces.  Also, the support is thicker and will have a bolt going through the pvc, throught the support and into the main body.

Posted

Is this something I will be fairly easy to do when mine arrives?  I am getting the unfinished kit, but as long as I have instructions/photos of the finished product as you have modified it I can do it.

Posted

Everything is ready to go for the improved tubing and bracing.  I will post some pics in the next day or 2 so you can see what I will be sending you.

 

Also, I have some special hooks (the kind used on bike racks that attach to the back of your car) that I am going to try out as an option for attachment of the pack base plate to the back plate of the TK armor.  I think it will work very well.  It would be braced both in the vertical and the horizontal direction.

 

Joseph, your pack is next on my list.

Posted (edited)

Here is the improved version of the bracing and horizontal tube.  This is a quick picture, since I have to get offline.  I will upload more, shortly.  Long story short, it is much stronger.

 

123c.thumb.jpg.3fefc855e815009f33884b85b4a5988e.jpg

 

123.thumb.jpg.1687fcfd54aeadbcfb65efcc9fd59504.jpg

 

123b.thumb.jpg.bd76bb09e69bc7ab4e425a6eaa2656c4.jpg

Edited by gmrhodes13
photo updated
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)
On 5/24/2017 at 12:55 AM, CrookKnight said:

 

Joseph, your pack is next on my list.

Since I ordered the "unfinished" kit, I have about 40 + hours into this bad-boy.  This includes sanding, filling, dremeling gluing painting, etc.

As you can see I took an"artistic license" with a few of the pieces to say the least, lol.  Since the insides (cannister/vertical tube inserts) cannot be seen unless removed, I figured what the heck.

All that's left to do at this point is to do some touch-up painting, attach a hose to the "mouthpiece" and secure the back on.  

 

http://i.imgur.com/BJrb7GH.jpg?1  

 

  ---------

 

Edited by gmrhodes13
link not working removed
  • Like 5
Posted
On 7/20/2017 at 0:49 PM, justjoseph63 said:

Since I ordered the "unfinished" kit, I have about 40 + hours into this bad-boy.  This includes sanding, filling, dremeling gluing painting, etc.

As you can see I took an"artistic license" with a few of the pieces to say the least, lol.  Since the insides (cannister/vertical tube inserts) cannot be seen unless removed, I figured what the heck.

All that's left to do at this point is to do some touch-up painting, attach a hose to the "mouthpiece" and secure the back on.  

 

BJrb7GH.jpg?1  VhZSZBa.jpg?2

 

GCL9Bnm.jpg?2  IX4OsA5.jpg?1

ZCvamFz.jpg?3

 

That looks amazing.  How did you do that paint job?

 

Posted

Wow, that is truly amazing!  Do you ever sleep?  The craftsmanship and talent are top shelf.  Well done! :duim:

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
On 7/22/2017 at 3:20 AM, CrookKnight said:

That looks amazing.  How did you do that paint job?

 

After sanding everything smooth, I primed it and then used 6 (yes, 6) coats of Automotive paint and then a clear coat.  I chose the Chrysler "Light Almond Pearl" for the canisters, as it really isn't a pure silver or bronze, but sort of a mix.  I used regular silver for the main body/hose connector and helmet/hose connection as well as on the back plate, and Nissan "Super White" for the main unit.  Don't ask why, (I don't know, LOL) but I added a leftover Hovi-tip screen into the end of the hose/helmet attachment.

 

BTW, I used large rubber O-rings on the outside of the main cannister.  For the other recessed areas (like the 2 bottom attachments) I used silver pinstriping.

    -------------

Edited by gmrhodes13
link not working removed
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
On 7/22/2017 at 3:43 AM, justjoseph63 said:

After sanding everything smooth, I primed it and then used 6 (yes, 6) coats of Automotive paint and then a clear coat.  I chose the Chrysler "Light Almond Pearl" for the canisters, as it really isn't a pure silver or bronze, but sort of a mix.  I used regular silver for the main body/hose connector and helmet/hose connection as well as on the back plate, and Nissan "Super White" for the main unit.  Don't ask why, (I don't know, LOL) but I added a leftover Hovi-tip screen into the end of the hose/helmet attachment.

 

BTW, I used large rubber O-rings on the outside of the main cannister.  For the other recessed areas (like the 2 bottom attachments) I used silver pinstriping.

 ----------    

Amazing....When I finally get to make myself one, I am going to talk to you about how to paint it.

 

Great job.  I would ask to use those pictures for my marketing, but there is no way I can make it look like that right now. lol.

Edited by gmrhodes13
link not working removed
Posted
34 minutes ago, Daetrin said:

Wow, that is truly amazing!  Do you ever sleep?  The craftsmanship and talent are top shelf.  Well done! :duim:

Thanks!  I'll sleep when I'm dead, Paul... LOL.  Besides, it keeps me out of mischief. ;)

Posted (edited)

Here is what I have come up with for strapping the pack to the backplate.  I like this option, since it will allow for easy removal and placement.  I would probably still use with magnets just to hold it in place as best as possible. 

 

I cut (4) slots into the base plate.  Inserted the white 3/4" nylon webbing.  I used the black plastic slip buckles just because it was all that I had.  For a real pack, I would do with out them and either glue the fabric together or sew it.  The black hooks holding the plate onto the armor are actually from a bike rack system that goes on the back of a car.  I ordered these online and they can be painted white so they do not stick out in great detail.

 

This will work great and keep the pack on, even if someone bumps into it.  I will have the base plate redesigned to allow for these 4 slots to already be present.  In this picture, I used a sodering iron to create the slots.

 

This is the first picuture.  My next one will be without the black pieces and no extra nylon webbing.  Should blend pretty well and not stick out.

----------

 

As you can see, I did not have it pulled completely tight.  The black sliders prevented me from doing that.

-----------

 

---------

 

----------

 

Thoughts?

Edited by gmrhodes13
link not working removed
Posted

Joseph kudos on that paint job. Really kicks butt. Wish I had some spare funds for these. Looks great.

Posted
17 hours ago, CrookKnight said:

Here is what I have come up with for strapping the pack to the backplate.  I like this option, since it will allow for easy removal and placement.  I would probably still use with magnets just to hold it in place as best as possible. 

 

I cut (4) slots into the base plate.  Inserted the white 3/4" nylon webbing.  I used the black plastic slip buckles just because it was all that I had.  For a real pack, I would do with out them and either glue the fabric together or sew it.  The black hooks holding the plate onto the armor are actually from a bike rack system that goes on the back of a car.  I ordered these online and they can be painted white so they do not stick out in great detail.

 

This will work great and keep the pack on, even if someone bumps into it.  I will have the base plate redesigned to allow for these 4 slots to already be present.  In this picture, I used a sodering iron to create the slots.

 

This is the first picuture.  My next one will be without the black pieces and no extra nylon webbing.  Should blend pretty well and not stick out.

20229045_10212838246698207_4035563663536

 

As you can see, I did not have it pulled completely tight.  The black sliders prevented me from doing that.

20228969_10212838245778184_7403005574783

 

20258386_10212838245818185_8610475104051

 

20374316_10212838245858186_5506224206785

 

Thoughts?

I like it a lot, and will have to do that for my pack.  I like that it looks very easy to take on/off.  Another option is for the top to not be adjustable, so just the bottom needs to be.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...