Rubies E11 mod

Before all I would like to set down a couple of things. First: My main goal is to learn during the process, have fun with it and if possible, improve the toy a little. I'm not trying to make it perfect (I couldn't even if I tried), just to make it better. Second: I'm making all this without a previous plan and changing it as I go. Any feedback is welcome.

artimorty · February 13, 2017

Let me introduce you all to "the Pal". My anovos armor will be displayed on him if I ever get the chance to start that build. On the meantime, I thought that a nice blaster would be great, but something not heavy, or expensive nor delicate. The Rubies e11 can be my answer.

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Edited February 13, 2017 by artimorty

artimorty · February 13, 2017

First I had to get rid of those hideous t-tracks of the cartoonish Star Wars rebels troopers. Nothing bad about them, but not the look I'm looking for here. For that, I marked all the t-tracks on both sides with a permanent marker using as a guide a piece of a tamiya kamoi masking tape, to get a consistent width for all of them (0,5 cm). After that, I sanded down them on my bench grinder.

And now it has a much better look

Edited February 13, 2017 by artimorty

artimorty · February 13, 2017

Also took away the D ring and the piece that holds it. I'm planning to do one better myself.

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Edited February 13, 2017 by artimorty

artimorty · February 13, 2017

Then I armed myself with a dremel tool and went crazy all around making holes:

The barrel

Since I'm planning to open the blaster for inserting an inner barrel, I also went for the scope to see if I can fit some lenses or something there

Also the barrel exit and the sights

And the the folding stock to see if I can provide some kind of fake aluminum rod.

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Edited February 13, 2017 by artimorty

artimorty · February 13, 2017

Then I went to thinner the trigger guard part. The rubies has a very "heavy" piece there and makes the whole look too much like a toy. The plastic is very soft and this mod can be easily overdone. Take care with it.

Very happy with it. I think that after repairing and sanding this will make a huge difference in the general aspect of the gun.

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Edited February 13, 2017 by artimorty

artimorty · February 13, 2017

Then I roughly rounded the handle to get it a smother aspect on the area.

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Edited February 13, 2017 by artimorty

artimorty · February 13, 2017

After that I went all crazy and carved out the charging handle slot. Don't know yet if I'm going to put a spring there or just a tube. But the slot looks just fine. I used the templates on the e11 blaster reference, but had to shorten the length accordingly to the shorter rubies tube. It starts and ends where it's supposed to do, keeping the right distance to the ejection port and the rear cup, and reduced the length in the medium.

You can notice that I've also drilled a bunch of holes under the scope and the rail for later taking the excess plastic out.

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Edited February 13, 2017 by artimorty

artimorty · February 13, 2017

That happened yesterday afternoon. Then i put the thing in the freezer overnight as advice by humperdingle (thanks very much for the tip!) and this afternoon forced the two halves apart. It took a good deal of force and sometimes I though I was going to rip it. Finally it went out well. Those rubies guys don't pay attention to where the ugly orange paint goes, but when it comes to gluing... they known their job.

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Edited February 13, 2017 by artimorty

artimorty · February 13, 2017

With the thing open, i cleaned the screw ports on the inside of the scope and the barrel front, and made a custom piece from a half pvc pipe to cover the charging slot just in case I'm not going for the full spring mod.

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Edited February 13, 2017 by artimorty

artimorty · February 13, 2017

And since each half lay flat once you open the blaster, I saw the opportunity to rebuild the right side of the front of the blaster, where the folding stock meets the barrel. I don't know the reason but there is an excess of plastic there that breaks the continuity of the t tracks and annoys me very very much.

First I cut off a triangle section making flat the area of the folding stock and trying to be parallel with the t track

Then I freehanded the contour of my folding stock over there

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Edited February 13, 2017 by artimorty

artimorty · February 13, 2017

Second I drilled around that line with the dremel and soften the area with files. Then, with a milling head on the dremel and wood carving tools made the new t track over there.

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Edited February 13, 2017 by artimorty

artimorty · February 13, 2017

Now sanding with minifiles, sand sticks and sand paper to get it smother. Next thing will be reconstructing the gap, probably with mililput and thinking to give it some support gluing sintra pieces from the inside.

Edited February 13, 2017 by artimorty

artimorty · February 13, 2017

Very little advance today. Clearly slowed by my real life on a work day, but I've managed to get enough time to start the rebuilding of the folding stock. I used white milliput to fill the gap. Once activated and in place, you can very easily smooth the surface with a wet plain object like any modeling tool.

With the spare putty I'd left I started to remodel the front leg of the scope to get it closer to the images on the E11 blaster reference.

I also cut the ejection port out and starting to play with pvc pipe to see if I make something like a bolt... may be I'm opening too many fronts at the same time...

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Edited February 13, 2017 by artimorty

artimorty · February 19, 2017

Ok. Here comes what I've done so far for the bolt piece. First I cut half of a pvc pipe section. Drew a rough line of the ejection port on it as reference for scale. Cut out a channel on the right side.

Then glued a sintra leftover piece behind the channel and half a wood stick inside. Over the wood stick a rectangular piece of sintra.

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Edited February 19, 2017 by artimorty

artimorty · February 19, 2017

Then I glued a long stripe from a plastic "for sale" sing over the whole piece and tested on the ejection port.

Hopefully, once painted it will sell the deal.

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Edited February 19, 2017 by artimorty

**zv288bot[TK]** · February 19, 2017

:jc_doublethumbup:

artimorty · February 21, 2017

Ok. That's official. This little proyect has gone out of hands. Somebody please unplug my dremel or I will end up carving the whole thing down! While in some areas the resins and putties cure, I drill holes and carve others. Don't know if this is ever going to end...

Finally the folding stock wasn't working for me at all. All the pictures of nice and beautiful e11s I've seen, show the folding stock not as plain as the rubies' but with some change of plain and holes on them. I had to do something on mine. First I dremeled out the back edge of the piece.

Then I draw and cut and shaped a piece of 1 mm sintra to make the lower part and hand painted on it the contours of the shapes I wanted to drill or cut.

Then I linked both pieces with miliput and sanded them smooth.

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Edited February 21, 2017 by artimorty

artimorty · February 21, 2017

Then I flip over to the back cup, where decided to carve out the forms that are missing on the rubies. First freehand draw the general shape of the area.

Then cut away the excess plastic with the dremel.

When painted I hope it will look ok.

Edited February 21, 2017 by artimorty

artimorty · February 21, 2017

Now it's time to pay attention to the muzzle and front sight area.

First, very carefully did the sight guards.

Here you can see one half done and the other just lined. You can also see the folding stock mode half way done.

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Edited February 21, 2017 by artimorty

artimorty · February 21, 2017

Then came the muzzle and the screws. Drilled out enough space to place the screws in place.

Then tested the screws in position, that's an improvement, isn't it?

Those screws might look a little too big, due to the slightly smaller size of the rubies muzzle. I will try to find smaller ones and give them another try. Even if I only find regular hex screws, this will do much better than how it was before.

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Edited February 21, 2017 by artimorty

artimorty · February 23, 2017

Guess what. I had to use a oomoo 30 rubber for another thing. It was defective and very hard to use, but because I had to get rid of it anyway, decided to try a fast dump mold to copy the hex screws I already own.

The silicone was in very poor condition but I managed to get a good resin copy of the screws. One is great, the other not so much. I'll try to fix the bad one but if I'm not able, I can always cast another set.

Tested on the muzzle... definitely this works!

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Edited February 23, 2017 by artimorty

artimorty · February 23, 2017

Then I went to modify the back joint section of the folding stock. First I carefully cut away the fake rivets with a hobby saw and reserved them.

Then draw and cut the tear pieces out of another old pvc sing I had around.

After that, tested the tear plates and the fake rivets in position. Success. This one was easy. Getting confident with this project.

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Edited February 23, 2017 by artimorty

artimorty · February 23, 2017

May be too confident... even unwise...

As I had the dremel plugged and resting, I took it again and went to change the screw section on the handle.

Carved the area and cut the head of an old screw. Tested again and I think it worked. Just a minor hole there than I hope can be easily solved.

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Edited February 23, 2017 by artimorty

artimorty · February 24, 2017

Today I've gone for the bayonet lug. Done that with a piece of wood bar and some sintra. Then I put it in place with superglue and secured from the inside with two screws.

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Edited February 24, 2017 by artimorty

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