Just another F-11D blaster build

[tennantlim[501st]]

Greetings Troopers! I'm Tennant from the Indonesia Garrison and this will be my first post here.

 

While I was waiting for my Boba Fett armor (1.5 years waiting time!), I had been itching to build something in the meantime. My buddy, who is also the CO of our Garrison, is building his First Order Stormtrooper armor and suggested I try building this blaster for him. So here we go...

 

The kit is a T5H print so I am sure most of you are already familiar with this.

 

I won't be posting step-by-step details as I would get caught up with the actual build and forget to take photos. Before I started, I browsed this forum for information about the kit, original prop parts and colors, and construction tips. Then it was a matter of planning out the sequence of the build, shopping for paints, screws, lights, etc. 

 

I was eager to sort out the lights in the magazine and Hengstler unit first and chanced upon a store that sells LED stuff where I got this custom made. A red acrylic panel will be attached to the window for the menacing glow. 

 

Several parts are meant to be simply glued/welded on to flat surfaces, but I prefer to reinforce the integrity with struts made from paperclips. Here is an example;

 

The main frame is assembled and finished as one seamless piece.

 

Paint! This is a painfully slow process, starting from prepping the surface (endless primering and sanding) to multiple thin coats with minimum 12 hours between each one to ensure they are fully cured. 

 

Nice and shiny...

 

First assembly. 

 

The magnet embedded in the magazine holds to the screw in the body. This is to facilitate magazine removal and allow access to the light switch within. The magazine fits snuggly into the recess already so the magnet is just for added holding strength.

 

That's it for now. Time to sleep...

Edited April 26, 2019 by tennantlim

[swibowoj[TK]]

Great works...

[tennantlim[501st]]

Great works...

Thanks bro.

[tennantlim[501st]]

Inching my way through assembly...

 

Installed reinforcement struts for the scope assembly.

 

Installed torx screws for the holster system.

 

Affixed decals.

Edited April 26, 2019 by tennantlim

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Looking good! 

Getting a whole F-11D with the tactical stock smooth is quite a challenging thing to undertake. Good luck with what you have left to do! Hengtsler.., tactical stock....., front barrel with T-tracks....... Pure joy ahead!!

[tennantlim[501st]]

Looking good!

Getting a whole F-11D with the tactical stock smooth is quite a challenging thing to undertake. Good luck with what you have left to do! Hengtsler.., tactical stock....., front barrel with T-tracks....... Pure joy ahead!!

Thank you so much for your kinds words, Germain. I also want to thank you for your fantastic work on this. I love the way everything fits together and reinforces itself. Yes joyous times ahead indeed! Edited February 6, 2017 by tennantlim

[tennantlim[501st]]

Hengstler counter done. 

 

I have to figure out a way for the cover to be removed easily to access the light switch instead of the screw as the thread will eventually wear out. I'm thinking of rendering the screw as just a cosmetic feature and use magnets to pop the cover on and off. 

 

Muzzle assembly.

Edited April 26, 2019 by tennantlim

[JonnieBear]

Wow just wow. May ask how you got the parts looking so buttery smooth??? Xox-3D or bondo??

 

 

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[tennantlim[501st]]

Wow just wow. May ask how you got the parts looking so buttery smooth??? Xox-3D or bondo??

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1. General sanding with low grit sandpaper (I use 240) to more or less even out the surface.

2. One or two light coats of primer depending on how severe the texture is. 

3. Fill holes with a two-part epoxy putty that can be smoothen out with water before it cures. (Forgot the brand. I'll check it tonight.)

4. Sand with medium grit sandpaper (I use 500).

5. Primer followed by wet sanding with high grit sandpaper (1,200 and 2,000). Repeat until the surface is smooth to touch.

6. Two light coats of rattle can spray usually completes the job for me. 

 

Hope this helps!

[JonnieBear]

1. General sanding with low grit sandpaper (I use 240) to more or less even out the surface.

2. One or two light coats of primer depending on how severe the texture is.

3. Fill holes with a two-part epoxy putty that can be smoothen out with water before it cures. (Forgot the brand. I'll check it tonight.)

4. Sand with medium grit sandpaper (I use 500).

5. Primer followed by wet sanding with high grit sandpaper (1,200 and 2,000). Repeat until the surface is smooth to touch.

6. Two light coats of rattle can spray usually completes the job for me.

 

Hope this helps!

What a labor of love. I'm stoked to do this but in the same time scared for my life hahaha. Thanks for the detail. Really helps me envision how all this is gonna happen hahaha

 

 

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[tennantlim[501st]]

What a labor of love. I'm stoked to do this but in the same time scared for my life hahaha. Thanks for the detail. Really helps me envision how all this is gonna happen hahaha

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Believe me, this is a daunting project especially since the goal is to make it look shiny new and like it just came off the production line. My only advice is plan properly and don't rush it. Good luck with your build!

[tennantlim[501st]]

Another piece of the puzzle to solve is the front flash protector. The one that came with my friend's kit is pretty badly mangled, as you can see. 

 

So instead of waiting for a replacement, that I have no idea how long will take, I am going to attempt to repair it with epoxy putty and attach it seamlessly to the barrel as best as I know how. My concern is it may get banged up during transport and when it's holstered against the thigh. 

Edited April 26, 2019 by tennantlim

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Hengstler counter done. 

 

I have to figure out a way for the cover to be removed easily to access the light switch instead of the screw as the thread will eventually wear out. I'm thinking of rendering the screw as just a cosmetic feature and use magnets to pop the cover on and off. 

 

Muzzle assembly.

 

Scope lenses sprayed with smoke grey and installed along with the eye rings. So here we are now. 

 

You may have noticed the missing top scope knob. I damaged it so I'm waiting for a replacement print. And yes the little stud in the magazine cover should be painted black.

 

Here are the parts that I'll be working on next.

 

The faux torx screw caps will be removed and replaced with real ones. 

 

Check out the textures on those pesky vents that will have to be smoothed out.  Also, I have to devise an attachment mechanism to enable the tactical stock to be swapped out with the end cap 2 with relative ease. Fun times ahead...

That hengstler looks absolutely... smooth! Impressive. With all the little details, corners, and such, it really is a tedious part to do.

 

One note about the eletronics for both the magazine and hengstler: in fact for best accuracy your switch should be reachable from the outside so you don't have to open the hengstler or magazine to power them up. I don't know if you have read the "Instructions" .pdf I have made and that goes with the 3D files, but I talk about that during the "build example".

 

Also about the muzzle, the black part of the front sight can be pushed a little further down. It should be touching the bottom of the groove.

And one last thing I didn't notice before: you have the same issue with the silver part of the scope mount. The rear of it isn't fullly interlocked with the other part and that's why your scope appears a little crooked downwards.

 

About for the attachment mechanism for the tactical stock, I guess you could use the screw that secures the rear sight in position. If you take one long enough you should be able to reach and secure at the same time the tactical stock. When you will want to swap, you will just have to remove a little the screw until you can pull the stock off, and retighten the screw after. 

[tennantlim[501st]]

That hengstler looks absolutely... smooth! Impressive. With all the little details, corners, and such, it really is a tedious part to do.

 

One note about the eletronics for both the magazine and hengstler: in fact for best accuracy your switch should be reachable from the outside so you don't have to open the hengstler or magazine to power them up. I don't know if you have read the "Instructions" .pdf I have made and that goes with the 3D files, but I talk about that during the "build example".

 

Also about the muzzle, the black part of the front sight can be pushed a little further down. It should be touching the bottom of the groove.

And one last thing I didn't notice before: you have the same issue with the silver part of the scope mount. The rear of it isn't fullly interlocked with the other part and that's why your scope appears a little crooked downwards.

 

About for the attachment mechanism for the tactical stock, I guess you could use the screw that secures the rear sight in position. If you take one long enough you should be able to reach and secure at the same time the tactical stock. When you will want to swap, you will just have to remove a little the screw until you can pull the stock off, and retighten the screw after. 

I really appreciate you taking the time to advise me. 

 

Indeed I have noticed the external switches in many reference photos but I was hoping to keep the surfaces intact. I shall consult with the owner of this blaster and see what he prefers. 

 

The top part of the muzzle was simply wedged lightly in the groove for the photo. I will insert it completely when I assemble it with the barrel. Sharp eyes!

 

The scope is being fixed now. Had to correct the strut placements. Thank you for pointing it out. 

 

I see what you're saying about the tactical stock locking system. Will look into it and consider other options as well.

[tennantlim[501st]]

Took my time to work on the tactical stock components;

- grind off the faux torx screw caps

- general sanding

- filed the vents to get them as smooth as possible

- 2 coats of primer with 24 hours curing time in between

- paint

- assemble and added real torx screws

Edited April 26, 2019 by tennantlim

[tennantlim[501st]]

Small updates for today. Finished and installed flash tip. Slides easily and the friction holds the tip in so it will not slide out when the blaster is pointed downwards. Waiting for ballon light to arrive. 

 

I rectified the mangled front flash protector by attaching it to the barrel with the 2-part epoxy putty. Before it cured, I smoothed out the joint with a wet cotton bud and now it looks like it was welded on. 

Edited April 26, 2019 by tennantlim

[Daetrin[Admin]]

Wow, the attention to detail and quality is beyond reproach. Thanks so much for sharing your experiences - this is probably the best F-11D build thread I've seen.

[tennantlim[501st]]

Wow, the attention to detail and quality is beyond reproach. Thanks so much for sharing your experiences - this is probably the best F-11D build thread I've seen.

 

Thank you so much Paul. Most ambitious project I've undertaken and I only hope the final outcome will be acceptable to my buddy. 

[tennantlim[501st]]

Next, I worked on the lights in the Hengstler counter. First I make a hole on the underside big enough for the push button to fit through.

 

Since it's a push button, the switch needs to be attached firmly against the inner side of the counter. There is very little surface area to apply any form of adhesive, so I glued on a Lego piece to add surface area.

 

To further increase the counter force from pushing the button, I wedged some glue pad between the battery holder and the rear of the switch. When the light is turned on, the button almost flushes with the counter, and this is perfect since the light will certainly be left on during trooping. 

 

Now I just need the red acrylic sheet to arrive to complete. Now on to the magazine...

Edited April 26, 2019 by tennantlim

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Nice setup!

 

By the way, personally I ended up using a second screw to keep the hengstler cover in place because only one at the bottom corner wasn't really enough. So I made a "L" bracket with some ABS scrap that I welded to the inside of the cover near the upper corner and used a second screw to secure it with the hengstler body. You can see the second screw on this picture:

 

Edit: Of course, using a socket screw would be better!

Edited February 4, 2017 by The5thHorseman

[tennantlim[501st]]

Nice setup!

 

By the way, personally I ended up using a second screw to keep the hengstler cover in place because only one at the bottom corner wasn't really enough. So I made a "L" bracket with some ABS scrap that I welded to the inside of the cover near the upper corner and used a second screw to secure it with the hengstler body. You can see the second screw on this picture:

Edit: Of course, using a socket screw would be better!

 

Thanks! Great tip on the hengstler cover. I will try something that will not alter the exterior any more than the switch. 

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Don't worry, it doesn't alter in a bad way the outside look of the hengstler as some of the original blasters have that extra screw.

 

Original blaster:

[tennantlim[501st]]

For the magazine light switch, a hole was made to accommodate the base of the switch.

After a quick paint work, the switch was wedged through the hole from inside the magazine with a bit of glue to hold it in place. 

Fixed the bulb in place with double sided foam tape so it sits directly behind the slits of the cover.

Edited April 26, 2019 by tennantlim

[tennantlim[501st]]

My buddy and I are going to have custody battles over her.

Edited April 26, 2019 by tennantlim

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Wow, you're going so fast! Your smoothing technic really does wonders.