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Posted

So here we go!! This is the kit I mentioned in my first post that was pre-owned and major trimming work was done to it before said-owner decided it wasn't their thing and sold it to me.  I laid out all the pieces to "Steve" to ensure everything was there and now armed with all kinds of parts noted from ukswrath's (dang Tony that is an incredibly detailed document!!) Anovos Build thread I am starting on the journey. Kinda nervous as I have never done something like this before so gonna take extreme care and caution til I start to find my groove. 

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More to come!!!!!

  • Like 2
Posted

Was working in forearms yesterday and I can see ABS paste and I, as well as shims, will become good friends. As noted I am 6'1" (185cm) and about 225 lbs (103kg) and athletically built so standard cut lines won't work out. I have seen others get it so I can too.

 

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Happy for feedback. Am certain someone here has had this same challenge, so onwards we go!!!

 

 

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Posted

Was working in forearms yesterday and I can see ABS paste and I, as well as shims, will become good friends. As noted I am 6'1" (185cm) and about 225 lbs (103kg) and athletically built so standard cut lines won't work out. I have seen others get it so I can too.

 

Happy for feedback. Am certain someone here has had this same challenge, so onwards we go!!!

 

 

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What if you remove the upper and lower (required for L3) return edge, will that help any?

Posted

What if you remove the upper and lower (required for L3) return edge, will that help any?

I guess I won't have any choice. These are not glued yet. Just taped, so all options are possible but based on your guide and my test fit I think the "best" next step after gluing will be to take them out.

My other concern though was my wrists are relatively small compared to hand circumference even when squeezing all fingers together.... it looked kinda silly on my arm as the end by the wrist was huge and near elbow if I flexed my forearms I broke the tape loose...

 

Challenges abound but I am gonna make this work!!

 

 

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Posted

Most return edge is not required and in some cases, the wrist side it is to be removed entirely at L3. I wouldn't be overly concerned regarding the play around your wrist as your gloves will take up quite a bit of that, at least visually.  

  • Like 1
Posted

Most return edge is not required and in some cases, the wrist side it is to be removed entirely at L3. I wouldn't be overly concerned regarding the play around your wrist as your gloves will take up quite a bit of that, at least visually.

Understood. Tomorrow we shall get one of these two started.

 

 

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Posted

Steve? Is starting to come together well Kevin. A little tip when it comes to sizing is to wear the compression top and bottom. Keep up the good work and if you run into trouble just ask for help.

  • Like 1
Posted

Steve? Is starting to come together well Kevin. A little tip when it comes to sizing is to wear the compression top and bottom. Keep up the good work and if you run into trouble just ask for help.

My 16-year old decided we needed a name for him. Since I don't have an official TK name yet (I want if still free TK-29967) we started talking names and Steve kinda stuck... :-) it IS unique!!!

 

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

Lol! I can't tell you to hurry for a TK#. That would be wrong. Take your time and do it right is always thr best advice. There's a place to see available #'s but it's been so long I can't remember where it was. I'm sure someone will chime in with the link if you haven't found it already. I'll have to keep an eye on your build so I can see how Steve is coming along. Maybe someday your son will make a friend for him.

 

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Posted

So.....

Not a big update but I made my first E-6000 foray today....I measured, thought ,checked, measured again, and cut the cover strips for the front of the forearms and glued into place. Now in curing period.....wow that stuff smells!!! :-)

 

Tomorrow evening when they have at least 24 hours on them I will see about glueing the next sides. I only did one side first to ensure I can control the slide and did what some others have noted and let the glue sit first to get "tacky" before mating the surfaces...still slid but not too wildly.

 

We shall see!!!!

 

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Posted

Nice work.

 

"wow that stuff smells!" You'll get used to it. Eventually you'll long for it lol

  • Like 1
Posted

So.....I have been busy "tinkering" the last few evenings. Both forearms are completed but I had to make some adjustments to the left one with some more glue at the wrist end. It was not enough and when I started fitting then it came apart a bit too much so I have it in clamps right now....

 

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I also started removing return edged as noted in the build guide. Only did the wrist end of the right forearm so far and I expected worse but it actually went okay. Took my time and exercised patience. Still need to fine tune the edge a bit to make it completely uniform flat but no rush yet. This was a good start.

 

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Two things I have noticed as well is the left forearm is gonna need a hot bath and patience to reform it as it seems bit "squished" so I want to try and re-shape it a bit...that ought to be fun.

The other item is the size between the right (huge!) forearm and the left much smaller) without even putting them on one can see there is a difference. The right actually fits pretty okay with the return edge on the elbow side still on it, but I am hink I am going to remove that as well. Again no rush for fine tuning. First the major hurdles then we can stay focused in the little stuff.

I read somewhere here that in ANH Luke actually wore two LEFT forearms? Cool what you learn here!!!

 

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I today spent some time masking and painting the Ab buttons as well. Now drying. On the large panel I may need to re-do one grey button. A couple dust particles have appeared...maybe I can use some wet sanding with ultra fine grit and correct without damaging.

 

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I have also glued one side of each of the biceps....and noooow starts the "fun" no way my arms will accept those with or without return edges. If I relax I can slide the on. As soon as I start to raise my forearms, that's it. Tape breaks.... so anyone have advise on how to expand these out to allow for the extra space I likely need? I am not a bodybuilder but flexed my biceps are 17". (I work out 5 days a week just to stay fit so this number is likely to remain).

 

Finally (sorry to ramble) it looks like my shoulder straps might be damaged as they are cut too close....don't you think I can really fix that. Looking at photos i am not sure these are acceptable anymore....So am looking for replacement ones now as well, hopefully I can find some to match Anovos color....

 

As with all my posts, feedback is always welcome. The wealth of experience here is humbling and I value anything I can learn.

Thx!!!!!

 

 

 

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Posted

Great job on the forearms, don't forget to remove the wrist side return edge if you're shooting for Centurion. Regarding the ab buttons, it's not a deal breaker but the paint should reside only on the top. Keep up the good work.  

Posted

One thing you can do is to add inside cover strips, Kevin.  I used scraps from the build to make these, as they don't have to be pretty, just functional.  I especially recommend using them on the insides of the front of the calves.  Those joints get flexed quite a bit when putting them on/pulling them off, and often get more stress than any others.  The ABS that Anovos uses is pretty flexible, but it never hurts to add a little "insurance" to the inside.  It doesn't have to be ABS, even a heavy duty white plastic "For Sale" sign cut into strips will do.

GREAT job on removing the return edges on the wrist side of the forearms, and you can do the same to the elbow side as well and make it to Centurion.  I would do this before final fitting/gluing, though.  You can (and should) remove all the return edges from the tops of your thighs as well, following the natural shape of the pieces.

Another thing you may want to do (from a comfort standpoint) is to trim the return edges from the tops of your biceps (shown in red below) as well as those jagged connections (shown in blue).  They can (and will) cut into your arm and snag on your undersuit

 

Keep up the fantastic work!!

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

Great job on the forearms, don't forget to remove the wrist side return edge if you're shooting for Centurion. Regarding the ab buttons, it's not a deal breaker but the paint should reside only on the top. Keep up the good work.

Thx Tony!

 

 

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Posted

One thing you can do is to add inside cover strips, Kevin. I used scraps from the build to make these, as they don't have to be pretty, just functional. I especially recommend using them on the insides of the front of the calves. Those joints get flexed quite a bit when putting them on/pulling them off, and often get more stress than any others. The ABS that Anovos uses is pretty flexible, but it never hurts to add a little "insurance" to the inside. It doesn't have to be ABS, even a heavy duty white plastic "For Sale" sign cut into strips will do.

GREAT job on removing the return edges on the wrist side of the forearms, and you can do the same to the elbow side as well and make it to Centurion. I would do this before final fitting/gluing, though. You can (and should) remove all the return edges from the tops of your thighs as well, following the natural shape of the pieces.

Another thing you may want to do (from a comfort standpoint) is to trim the return edges from the tops of your biceps (shown in red below) as well as those jagged connections (shown in blue). They can (and will) cut into your arm and snag on your undersuit

 

Keep up the fantastic work!!

 

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Thx Joseph!! Will see what I can sort in the local hardware stores here. My kit was visited by Jason Vorhese before I bought it so I don't have any of the excess. But regardless I am gonna learn a lot and maybe even succeed in the end. Hope. We always have hope. :-)

 

 

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Posted

 But regardless I am gonna learn a lot and maybe even succeed in the end. Hope. We always have hope. :-)

 

 

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Judging from what I've seen so far, you should substitute the word confidence for the word hope.  You are doing the right thing by taking your time and asking questions.

  • Like 1
Posted

Judging from what I've seen so far, you should substitute the word confidence for the word hope. You are doing the right thing by taking your time and asking questions.

Thx Joseph! I take cash donations at the door, but a simple round of applause is always gratefully received as well sir!

 

 

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Posted

Updates for today.....

Cleaned out all return edges on forearms and shoulder Bells...

 

Left...

 

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Right...

 

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Shoulder Bells

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These will need a hot water bath before the end. Just too small for me. (Notice I said that I am not too big!!!!)

 

Shoulder straps also "cleaned up" but I wrote two two German Garrison Jungs for advice if acceptable or not. Upon reply I will post how they look....

 

Tomorrow I will probably work on thighs as I must wait for my boots before I can do the shins.... plenty to do still so if you are following then "stay tuned"!!!!!!

 

See ya soon!!

 

 

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Posted

Btw, I also found a seller in Germany who sells sheets of ABS plastic with the plastic wrap on one side....so I figured why not and ordered a sheet of 100cm x 50cm at 2mm thick. If nothing else at least I then have material for the inside strips!!

Yes everyone, Kevin can learn!!! He has been painstakingly taking notes and listening to feedback so that Steve turns out good and Kevin can join the fold. :-)

 

 

 

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Posted

Well I have finally managed to get back to "Steve" a little bit yesterday and today to hang out a bit....

 

Firstly, shoulder straps that I mentioned earlier:

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I think unless someone comes up to me with a magnifying glass I should be okay with these.

 

Yesterday I trimmed rather cautiously the thighs just up to the marked cut lines from Anovos. I read, read and re-read the notes from ukwraths build and today I bit the bullet and CUT...I kept a steady hand but I was scared!!! I took a nice long section out of the from of each to get them down to the right size. Most likely will need to make shims for the back but research says better in the back than in the front. They are curing now and I actually did both sides of the fronts at once rather than only half like I did on the forearms...used some colorful vocabulary during the process but the major alignment was achieved I think so fingers crossed when I look at them in 2 days. (Erring in caution side here and letting them really sit and cure)

 

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While these are curing I will probably start some work on the back and kidney. Been reading kmans build thread and I really like his strapping system so my try something very similar as it looks really robust. (If you have not yet seen his thread go check it out. He has done an incredible job detailing things and making notes.

 

 

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Posted

So, in my quest to size my kit decently I have experimented with the biceps and using some of the ABS sheet I bought I made some shims for the insides... i measured enough in width to give decent E6000 space to grip and made them so the original Anovos outside trim still covers them once dried....

 

Before:

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After:

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Both sets:

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While those are drying I have spent more time cutting other shims and inside trim of various sizes...

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(this is all 2mm stock so pretty thick and for short straight space is great and super strong. Curves like back of thighs, nope. Not so good. Have to take one out and replace with the 1mm stock I ordered as it's too thick to curve so good over a short distance like this gap...)

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1mm should be better and maybe I will just wake them a bit wider too for inside the thighs.

 

Hopefully this makes sense what I am doing. I want to keep my outside strips as original and see if just making 2-3cm more space from this method gives me the space inside to fit good. Test fit was not too bad but I still have not taken off the return edges either. That is tomorrow perhaps...

 

 

NEWS!!!! I got TK boots as well Friday morning!!!! Tried them on and for like molded for me feet. Just wore them around the house for an hour and these are great! Service, communication and support from the TK guys was tremendous. ( I told them I was gonna rave about them here.) shipping was expensive but it was here in like 10 days to Germany so I could have chosen a bit slower perhaps but honestly, not a big issue.

 

NEWS Part 2: I got my Blaster-Master Über ANH E-11 kit delivered as well. Awesome!!!!! I will make a thread on it as well to show progress but from the work so far this is FUN to build!!!! I also managed to snag a Doopy Resin kit directly from them last week that I will build but it's not here yet.

 

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Storm-Trooper-Uber-E-11-Blaster-Rifle-Model-Hero-Kit-ANH-Screen-Accurate-Replica-/231925095346?hash=item35ffd01bb2:g:YZsAAOSwiYFXHoS8

 

Progress so far:

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In the description and videos found on YouTube he has gotten access to the FISD (by and with support of the FISD) to make this as accurate as possible and I gotta say I am in awe firstly of what a 3D printer can do, DAMN!!!! Sanding is a pain but patience is a virtue. :-). But I am also in awe of the thought behind this work and the attention to detail. The videos are extremely good and the build document backs them up as well as providing a few more details to watch for.

 

I am using Gorilla Glue gel to glue pieces and holy cow is this stuff strong!!!! What you see above set in about 10 seconds and you had better have it right!!!!! after an hour more than strong enough to forcefully sand the heck out of it....

Anyway I digress....I will make a build thread for the E-11 and copy this into gong forwards. This thread should and will be all about "Steve" here on forwards!!!

 

So....now I have something to do in between E6000 sessions and yeah Tony (Ukswrath) you were right. The more I do the more I get used to it and can't wait til I can do more!!!

 

Be safe y'all, in this crazy world we live in. May the Force, and your sanity be with you!!!!

KH

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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