Jaltrooper Posted January 13, 2017 Report Posted January 13, 2017 Ok, so for all of my "research"...none of it prepared me for the helmet assembly / "cap n back" of the AM 2.0 helmet. I have looked through as many possible threads as I could, but I cannot find the answers to a couple of questions I need for a final fit. Here, have a look: What I am running into, is having "room" for tube stripes, and to be able to effectively put the "s-gasket" around the bottom. Here is another one: The pencil mark is where the tube stripes (with about 1/8") need to stop, based on what I have seen in the reference pics. The issue is, when I force the helmet to meet that, you can see how un-even the bottom is. Is "trimming" this standard? I have looked everywhere to try to find pics of helmet assemblies in this area...and I never see any looking like this. Here is the other side: So...I am pleased with the thickness of the armor and helmet...but what I am finding, is it will crack very easily when trimming with tin snips (may need to purchase better quality trimmers...rather than the Home Depot HDX cheapies I got). But I am really having to force this thing...and I have no idea how the trimming should look. I don;t want the brow sitting right on top of the eyes, with my "Stunt" build...it looks like the common resting point is about 1/4" between the eyes and the brow trim. Any help, or any pics of this area through assembly if anyone has it, would be very appreciated. Once I figure it out...rest assured I'll include it in my build thread....which is stalled right now till I figure this out. Thanks guys! Jon Quote
gazmosis[501st] Posted January 13, 2017 Report Posted January 13, 2017 First off, don't worry about the bottom opening just yet. Once the rest of the helmet is assembled, you can trim the opening so it is even all the way around. At the point you are at, the helmet assembly is really no different than any other. First, drill out your mounting holes in the round portion of the cap "ear" just below the temple traps. Roughly here:. Make sure your hole is the same size as the rivet you will be using to do the final mating of the cap and face. Find a screw and nut and use that FIRST until everything is aligned the way you want and the construction is finished. You can then go back and permanently rivet everything down in the end. Then trim and install your brow trim. This is essential to making sure your trim fits tight across the brow line. Add the face and find the position of the brow line you like. Make sure to use the outer corner of each eye and the front trap edge for alignment so your face is centered. Once you have things lined up how you like, mark your mounting point onto the face through the ear hole you drilled BUT DO ONLY ONE SIDE!!! You'll see why in a second. Drill your mounting hole on the face and join the face and cap with a screw and nut. With the one side secure, you are free to align the second side without the worry of the first side sliding or moving out of position. You also want to make sure at this point that the brow is even and tight to the face. It doesn't need to be perfectly level. It can be a little raised in the center but just make sure it is even or it will look wonkey from the front. Once the brow is how you like it, mark and drill out the second hole and secure that side. Now, set it down and step back. look at the helmet and make sure the brow is even. If it is not, don't panic. The mounting holes are adjustable. A little sideways pressure with your drill bit can move the mounting hole up, down, backward, or forward. Just do your adjustment on the face only. Many people then install an auxiliary mounting rivet on the cheek tube right at the seam. This will prevent the cap from hinging on the face which is important when trimming the ears because those need to be trimmed in one location on the helmet. Good luck! 1 Quote
Jaltrooper Posted January 13, 2017 Author Report Posted January 13, 2017 Thank you very much. Makes perfect sense... Quote
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