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Posted

Name: Michael Wayne Guzman


 


501st Id: TK-42104


 


FISD Forum Name: Rumrunner8864


 


Garrison: Empire City Garrison


 


501st STATUS: http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=21336


 


 


 


Mandatory Information


 


Armor: RS Prop Masters Commission


Helmet: RS Prop Masters Commission


Blaster: E-11 ESB RS Prop Masters Commission


 


Optional


 


Height: 6'00


Weight: 222 lbs


Boots: TK Boots


Canvas Belt: RS Prop Masters Commission


Hand Plates: RS Prop Masters Commission


Neck Seal: RS Prop Masters Commission


Holster Maker: RS Prop Masters Commission


Electronics: Icomm and amp


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  • Like 1
Posted

Hey Michael! Awesome to see you over here submitting for EIB! I know first hand how nice your RS armor is. One thing I have noticed is you don't have a d ring on your e-11. You will need that. But otherwise you are looking good! Good luck and bring another EIB to the ECG!

Posted

Hey Michael! Awesome to see you over here submitting for EIB! I know first hand how nice your RS armor is. One thing I have noticed is you don't have a d ring on your e-11. You will need that. But otherwise you are looking good! Good luck and bring another EIB to the ECG!

Thanks Star,

 

Any ways or places i can get this accomplished for the D ring. this is the stock one that came from RS. I cant wait to get the official approval for EIB. hoping to eventually work towards centurion if possible. The constructive criticism and suggestions are well recieved

Posted

Hey Michael! Awesome to see you over here submitting for EIB! I know first hand how nice your RS armor is. One thing I have noticed is you don't have a d ring on your e-11. You will need that. But otherwise you are looking good! Good luck and bring another EIB to the ECG!

Also Im looking on the ESB CRL and notice two different blasters being shown. one ESB and one e11 blaster (promo) i wonder what is the difference as the promo says remove d-ring and the other requires it. just for clarification

Posted

Well Michael I stand corrected! Looking at your blaster again it appears you do have the promo one and you don't need the d-ring. I didn't know the promo didn't need one until you just mentioned it. Nevermind haha!

  • Like 1
Posted

It has occurred to me that my bells were caught on the edge of my bicep  armor in the above pictures making them stand on end. I have included two more pictures mor recently that show them sitting more naturally. if I need to resubmit please let me know.

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Posted

Looking good, Michael!  I would look into bringing the shoulder bells in a little closer to your shoulder straps, and it may be the photo, but it looks as if the 2 snaps on the bottom of the butt plate have been painted white, and should be unpainted.  Both easy fixes!  

  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks for the suggestion. any ideas on how to bring the bells in or widen them? they are the RS PVC stock. also looking on the CRL it dose not say as far as I can see that they should or should not be painted. just states the following

 

- Two small snaps are present on the lower center tab of the posterior armor.

   -Snaps do not need to be functional

 

If need be I can remove the paint

Posted

To bring in the shoulder bells, just shorten the straps that connect them to the shoulder bridge.  The painted snaps, while not specifically mentioned in the CRL are not screen accurate.  I have seen them ask people to remove it on several occasions, and since it's an easy fix I would recommend doing it.

To widen the bells, you can use a hot (boiling) water bath.  Just be VERY careful not to leave them in too long.  Sometimes it only takes a matter of seconds.  I don't suggest using a heat-gun unless you are very adept and experienced at it.  Things can go south really quickly, and may cause irreparable damage.

Posted

To bring in the shoulder bells, just shorten the straps that connect them to the shoulder bridge.  The painted snaps, while not specifically mentioned in the CRL are not screen accurate.  I have seen them ask people to remove it on several occasions, and since it's an easy fix I would recommend doing it.

To widen the bells, you can use a hot (boiling) water bath.  Just be VERY careful not to leave them in too long.  Sometimes it only takes a matter of seconds.  I don't suggest using a heat-gun unless you are very adept and experienced at it.  Things can go south really quickly, and may cause irreparable damage.

will this work with RS PVC?

Posted

To bring in the shoulder bells, just shorten the straps that connect them to the shoulder bridge.  The painted snaps, while not specifically mentioned in the CRL are not screen accurate.  I have seen them ask people to remove it on several occasions, and since it's an easy fix I would recommend doing it.

To widen the bells, you can use a hot (boiling) water bath.  Just be VERY careful not to leave them in too long.  Sometimes it only takes a matter of seconds.  I don't suggest using a heat-gun unless you are very adept and experienced at it.  Things can go south really quickly, and may cause irreparable damage.

I have shorten the strips. i will try them on once the adhesive has dried 

Posted

I have never worked with PVC armor, but hopefully someone who has can chime in on that, Michael.  Nice job on those snaps!

Posted

That looks much better, I will be reviewing your armour shortly, but thank you for taking all the suggestions from your fellow troopers on board :duim:

Posted

Just on your blaster, can we please have a photo of the other side. All your images are of the magazine side.

 

Thank you

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hi Michael

Can we please have a photo of the other side of your Thermal det, showing the belt clips and screws, and a  photo of both your fore arms side by side showing the return edge removed at the wrist ends.

Thank you, we wont be too much longer.

Posted

Hi Michael, thank you for your application for Expert Infantry, lets get strated!

CRL and EIB Application Requirements:

All submission photos have been posted, but your side shims need to be addressed as per the EIB CRL.

 

.Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide. This you have correct

 

.Any shims used to achieve this effect are of a similar material and color as the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims fit flush and seams are allowed.

 

We see from the photos provided that your shims look to be mounted behind the AB and the Kidney plate, and not flush with.

The way they are currently mounted is how you would start to make a base to which you mount the shim, so it is flush with the surface of the two halves. Much like a butt joint and cover strip, only the cover strip is on the inside of your armour.

 

gydOMot.jpg

 

Reference image of side shim flush mounted.

49E0FCE8-9553-4220-A4A4-4E9B7CF75344_zps

 

This image came from the below link. There are quite a few photos to help explain how this trooper went about making large side shims.

Also we have many many troopers who have needed to make the side shims due to the original small size of the armour, but all have mounted their shims from the kidney plate and not a double set also on the Ab. Your Ab shims also place the upper Ab snap and Ab rivets in the wrong locations.

One shim per side is also less work in general

You can do this, based on your overall build, you can do this easy.

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30226-side-shims-on-abkidney-help/?hl=%2Bside+%2Bshims

 

 

When complete, please post up some new photos showing the change plus those extra couple of images we requested in the above post to this one, and we shall continue with your review.

We are here along with your fellow troopers, to help.

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