Gwithian Posted March 17, 2017 Author Report Posted March 17, 2017 (edited) Glad you liked the pics mate, I'm following and learning from your thread too It really was amazing to see what the guys at RS do, I should have taken more pics and asked more questions , but for once in my life I was dumb struck ...... sorry I'm now wondering where on earth do I start.....I don't think I will sleep much tonight ..... which means my wife will be in a bad mood tomorrow ...... or I will end up in the spare room lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited March 17, 2017 by Gwithian Quote
Gwithian Posted March 18, 2017 Author Report Posted March 18, 2017 Well today I've been sorting , or , trying to sort the arms and legs into left and right, I think I have it but will he k before I start trimming and putting the stuff together. I need to order some E6000 glue and some magnets.... what size magnets do I need? Anyway arms and legs now boxed up Put some duct tape inside the lid, around the frown mesh, and to cover the joints between the face and cap Painted the inside with chalk board paint .... it needs another coat And redid the hovi mic tips I used a AA battery to get the shape and it worked perfectly, the first attempt wasn't good enough but second and third goes have been placed into the mic tips Oh and the blaster is well.... fantastic , I'm really chuffed with it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
Gwithian Posted March 19, 2017 Author Report Posted March 19, 2017 Given the lid a second coat today and it's looking good. T thought I would start with the thermal detonator . Cut the end caps out roughly, I guess they need sanding flat so there is no ridge ? Also are these the correct screws in the TD? Do I just need to paint them black ? Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
Gwithian Posted March 19, 2017 Author Report Posted March 19, 2017 I marked 20mm like Clive on UKG said with my compass , the line can just about be seen Then trimmed it with the scissors , I didn't trim to the line, I will sand them down later Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
fragarock[TK] Posted March 19, 2017 Report Posted March 19, 2017 Hi Stephen, Screws look good just paint them black. Your end caps are correct at 20mm. Take a look at the photo reference gallery http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/7-general-stormtrooper-reference/. The first category is the TD which shows the overall length which I believe is between 185-190mm. Also the RS Suit category has good photos of the TD with measurements. When I built mine I failed to align the clips so they were touching the end caps which is a good idea if you want EIB or Centurion. To do this I had to move them which was easy enough. I noticed your tube has printing on it. I believe this is allowed but if you're gonna have to move the clips like I had to, you could paint your whole tube prior to reinstall the clips. Not needed unless you want the printing gone....I think some have sanded off the print as well and the re-polished the tube. I'm referencing your helmet work as I start mine. 1 Quote
Gwithian Posted March 20, 2017 Author Report Posted March 20, 2017 Thanks for the link to the reference pics Frank, wow they are really helpful Quote
Gwithian Posted March 20, 2017 Author Report Posted March 20, 2017 Sanded the TD end caps today and git them to 20mm each Then I thought I would do the TD control panel I may have it the wrong way up? But when you look from the top it's not square, I thought I had best check before I trim any more? Also the joint will look like this... is that ok? Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
fragarock[TK] Posted March 21, 2017 Report Posted March 21, 2017 Sanded the TD end caps today and git them to 20mm each Then I thought I would do the TD control panel I may have it the wrong way up? But when you look from the top it's not square, I thought I had best check before I trim any more? Also the joint will look like this... is that ok? Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk The rectangular button parts of the control panel will be on the bottom and the round button on top. Mine had the same bent corners and work in wonkiness to it as well. Just clamped it down best I could. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Gwithian Posted March 21, 2017 Author Report Posted March 21, 2017 Thanks mate Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
Gwithian Posted March 22, 2017 Author Report Posted March 22, 2017 Been busy today, the magnets arrived so I covered them in micro fibre cloths, got the idea from Cricket Whilst I'm waiting for the glue to arrive I thought I would start the ammo belt Found this in crickets thread, it's really helpful Then started Marked out the lines, did a rough cut with the lexon scissors Clamped the piece down with Eric lamps and a long aluminium strip to act as a guide, did three scores with the x-acto knife and then split the cut Marked out the 45 degree ends and checked them against the belt Checked they were 45 degrees Then trimmed them with the scissors I messed up one of my runs with the blade, it went a bit wrong, as can be seen below with the faint line, don't know how I can get rid of it Finished job Really chuffed with today's work Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
Cricket[TK] Posted March 22, 2017 Report Posted March 22, 2017 Good job there, Stephen! Those magnets are... dare I say it? You've accomplished making magnets super adorable. And your belt looks perfect. Nice work! 1 Quote
Gwithian Posted March 23, 2017 Author Report Posted March 23, 2017 Well today has been a learning experience and I am a true believer that we do learn something new every day. Today I realised I went a bit mad with the rivet gun on putting my lid together, note to self don't do it next time Ok so today my glue arrived, but before I start I wanted to check if this looks ok The control panel is a tad wonky, is the small gap on the RHS near the aluminium bracket ok? I also started trimming the abdomen and kidney pieces, I have trimmed the return edge to 0.5", is that ok? What size should the return edges be on the arms, legs and around the side of the armour, around the neck etc Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
Cricket[TK] Posted March 23, 2017 Report Posted March 23, 2017 (edited) The control panel is a tad wonky, is the small gap on the RHS near the aluminium bracket ok? Hm. If you're aiming for Centurion, you'll need to fix that. You want the panel to touch the brackets. Like this: I see that you've got the top lined up straight, but the bottom isn't. I had some issues with this as well. I would align the bottom to the brackets and gently even out the top edge. It looks like there's a bit of flashing still on the top right corner that could be removed anyhow. I also started trimming the abdomen and kidney pieces, I have trimmed the return edge to 0.5", is that ok? What size should the return edges be on the arms, legs and around the side of the armour, around the neck etc In general, the returns should be just wide enough to install your brackets. You'll also have more flex in your ab/kidney pieces with a narrower return. Mine are all about 3/8" (about 1cm) wide. In my FISD research notes, I see that I wrote: "6-8mm on bottom chest, top of ab, bottom of back, top of kidney". If you're using brackets, be sure to install some extra ABS under the returns for reinforcement. No returns at the bottoms of the forearms. Returns at the tops of the forearms are optional (I removed most of mine). No returns on the bottom of the shins. All other returns on limb parts are optional, but some will say to keep them minimal to add depth to the look of the armor. No need for returns on the neck. I cut away at the sides of my chest and back and rebuilt the returns on those areas because it looked better to me that way. And I cut away all the returns on the butt plate, but built those back as well. Just personal preference for me on that. Edited March 23, 2017 by Cricket 1 Quote
Gwithian Posted March 23, 2017 Author Report Posted March 23, 2017 Thanks Christine, I will re-trim the TD plate and square it up, I'm so glad I asked before I glued Thanks also fir the return edge info and the tip re reinforcing the brackets. Did you use the RS brackets? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
Cricket[TK] Posted March 23, 2017 Report Posted March 23, 2017 I picked up my brackets from Mr. No Stripes. I am pretty sure that the RS brackets are identical, though. 1 Quote
Mworm1974[TK] Posted March 24, 2017 Report Posted March 24, 2017 (edited) Hi Stephen,<br> I just received my RS kit in the mail last week and your 100% right they took so much care in packing the kit I was really impressed. I initially was going with another set of armour that I will get later when it's ready but after reading Cristines build I went with RS for my first ever build<br> ## Christine, your build thread has made it to Australia too, I think I have looked at it possibly 10 or so times.<br> Diana's build thread is good too and would be worth looking up. <br> I had the same issue with the TD, I just slightly sanded the control panel bottom edge to line it up with the clips. There are a few FISD pointers for this one. Plus I have watched ANH a few times in the past few days to look at them. The top edge with the 'O' has the same little bump as yours.<br> Can you tell me, what are the left and right forearm pieces? My kit came with no labels or any identifiable marks, except that outside edges with 11 or 12 indents. Also did you see anything about the scoop on the inner forearm pieces. <br> Matt Edited March 24, 2017 by Mworm1974 1 Quote
fragarock[TK] Posted March 24, 2017 Report Posted March 24, 2017 Hi Stephen,<br> I just received my RS kit in the mail last week and your 100% right they took so much care in packing the kit I was really impressed. I initially was going with another set of armour that I will get later when it's ready but after reading Cristines build I went with RS for my first ever build<br> ## Christine, your build thread has made it to Australia too, I think I have looked at it possibly 10 or so times.<br> Diana's build thread is good too and would be worth looking up. <br> I had the same issue with the TD, I just slightly sanded the control panel bottom edge to line it up with the clips. There are a few FISD pointers for this one. Plus I have watched ANH a few times in the past few days to look at them. The top edge with the 'O' has the same little bump as yours.<br> Can you tell me, what are the left and right forearm pieces? My kit came with no labels or any identifiable marks, except that outside edges with 11 or 12 indents. Also did you see anything about the scoop on the inner forearm pieces. <br> Matt The left arm has 11 indents, the right has 12. Good luck and go slow. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Gwithian Posted March 24, 2017 Author Report Posted March 24, 2017 Hi Matt, welcome to the FISD, like you I'm well chuffed I got the RS armour, and it was reading Christines thread that gave me the confidence to say "yeah, have a go at building it" and I'm glad I made that decision. Fragarock is spot on re the forearm pieces, the right one outer and inner is much wider than the left. Regarding the cut outs, Fragarock has covered this in his build thread, that too, like Christine's and Diana's is worth a look. <br><br> Thanks for the tips on the TD Quote
Mworm1974[TK] Posted March 26, 2017 Report Posted March 26, 2017 I did forget to ask, are the magnets rare earth type? Quote
Gwithian Posted March 26, 2017 Author Report Posted March 26, 2017 I did forget to ask, are the magnets rare earth type? Yes, I got mine from a local company in Manchester Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
Gwithian Posted March 27, 2017 Author Report Posted March 27, 2017 Ok I've not done much the past few days, weather has been perfect so I've been mostly riding the bike . Anyway I think the TD is looking better now , I've still not glued it, just in case I've trimmed the chest return edges, are they ok? I think the cod needs more taking off? The butt piece has a grove line on the bottom of it, I've pencilled it in so you can see it, do I trim to that line? Not started the back piece, I haven't a clue how much to take off the sides as shown in the pic I'm getting there but by bit . Thanks for all the help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote
TK73511 Posted March 27, 2017 Report Posted March 27, 2017 Oh yes to trimming that butt plate line Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
TK73511 Posted March 27, 2017 Report Posted March 27, 2017 Haha this is confusing on tapatalk, I thought I was replying as your armourer on the ukg forum lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Gwithian Posted March 27, 2017 Author Report Posted March 27, 2017 Haha this is confusing on tapatalk, I thought I was replying as your armourer on the ukg forum lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thanks Clive Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Gwithian Posted March 28, 2017 Author Report Posted March 28, 2017 Well I've been looking at my TD today and I'm thinking something isn't quite right. I've looked the reference pics on FISD and also Christine's centurion application (I hope you don't mind me using some of your pics) The pic is a reference pic from FISD, the next two from Christine For some reason my control plate just doesn't look quite right, I mean it's as if the metal brackets need to go around the tube a bit more? My TD, it's still not glued BTW Now I'm thinking do I adjust the metal brackets so they bend around the tube a little more? Another ref pic And mine On mine it looks like the bracket could be bent a little more around the tube up to the point it double backs on itself to make the clip...... what do you think? Also I've been doing more trimming of the body pieces, sorry no pics, but I stool it together with duct tape and it seems to be fitting quite well for a small person. How do I work out how much I need to cut down the kidney and chest pieces? They seem to fit fine, but how do I know if the cod and butt pieces are too low? Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
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