Jaltrooper's ANH Stunt "Tall Guy / Newbie" AM 2.0 Build

[Jaltrooper]

I am. Based on my initial fitting and sizing...the Mr. No Stripes system is going to work perfectly.<br><br>

I also got the centurion rivets set from Joseph on the forums.

[SheaJeff[TK]]

I am. Based on my initial fitting and sizing...the Mr. No Stripes system is going to work perfectly.<br><br>

I also got the centurion rivets set from Joseph on the forums.

Could you please post a link to the system you are referring to. Thanks.

[Jaltrooper]

Sure Jeff...Here is the "Mr. No Stripes" strapping kit for the ab-chest & Back-Kidney-butt plate:

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/20859-accurate-anh-stormtrooper-strapping-brackets-v-20-now-available/

 

Here is where I got my Centurion Rivets:

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/34902-centurion-level-rivet-sets-for-sale/

Edited January 22, 2017 by Jaltrooper

[Jaltrooper]

Just incase anyone else needs the links to the folks who I have acquired my "accessories"...here they are:

 

Neckseal / Holster - "Darman" FISD:

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21385-darmans-neck-seals/

 

TD Clips - "Ukswrath" - FISD (putting Tony's "go to thread" has all kinds of goodies / electronics for your helmet and other great items):

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35211-ukswraths-go-to-thread/

 

Centurion Rivets and fasteners / latex hand guards - "Justjoseph63" FISD:

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35702-fs-latex-and-silicone-hand-guards-for-level-3/

 

My "Hyperfirm" E-11 Blaster - "Slavefive" - FISD (does "runs" of 5 at a time - needs d-ring):

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/39416-fs-hyperfirm-anh-e-11-b-grades-5x-available/

 

My awesome "Garter Belt" - "Pencap510" - FISD (holds up the thighs...great quality):

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29991-thigh-garter-system/

 

I got my Blaster D-Ring, tube stripe templates and a couple other "trooper" items from:

 

www.trooperbay.com 

 

I got my TK boots at - www.tkboots.com

 

My belt will be coming from here:

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19803-fs-white-canvas-belts/

 

 

If I left anyone off, apologies. I'll make sure I go through and see if I did. 

 

My thought was, 2 things, I know where these are coming from, they are from fellow troopers, and I am going for EIB-to-Centurion out of the gate...so accuracy was very important. I still have a few things to consider getting. But, if they are on this list, not only was what I received of the best quality, I got what I got with great communication, they did what they said, and I am a happy guy. 

 

Should have done this sooner, hope this gives my fellow newbies somewhere to grab all these without having to look and ask around. 

 

Jon

Edited January 23, 2017 by Jaltrooper

[Jaltrooper]

So...the bucket paint:

 

I'll just put these up and let you all admire them for a second

 

 

...

 

 

 

 

 

I do want some consensus on this side...go ahead and drill / trim the small "5th hole"? have seen it pictured on the screen buckets with and without...opinions would be appreciated.

 

 

Just kidding. 

 

I am happy with the "hand painted look" across the board. One thing I did wrong, I tried to pull the masking tape off too quickly on the front left tear. 

 

My hand slipped and hit the third / fourth stripe and marred those two. Easy fix, I'll just tighten it up with some grey paint, which (because I want a tad better "clean" look) I'll do on a couple of spots to clean up the lines. 

 

At the end of the day, the marking and masking I did (above post) really did help. Once I found the right small brush, pictured here:

 

 

 

The brush made it a little easier. Just held it like a pencil and gave it all I had.

 

Anyway...I have 3 things left. I am going to get the Mic tips on...install the lenses, and get a "hard hat liner" installed. I'll include those 3 items when I get to them. 

 

Paint will be drying today...so back to trimming armor. Plan is to have shins, forearms, biceps and shoulder bells complete today. Also need to get the mid-section secure...really need to get my "TKtttell" belt on the way. 

 

Have a great Sunday everyone.

 

Jon

Edited January 22, 2017 by Jaltrooper

[Jaltrooper]

Hi All,

 

Just a quick "tip" i discovered kind of by accident...but it seems to work.

 

To "remove return edges" on the AM 2.0 Armor...how do we determine "where to cut". Well, I took my construction pencil (have used this 1,000 times) and angled it like this:

 

 

This is on the "bottom outer bicep". Notice the pencil "falls" right on the curve / edge of the bend. 

 

I then simply shave / cut to the inside (away from the outer armor) of the pencil mark...and it is working great. 

 

You can "eyeball" it, but why risk going too far. This tends to line up almost perfectly with the "inner edge" on the return. 

 

Will post a couple of trimmed pieces when I get home...just thought this may help on the "how do I" front. 

 

Jon

[Jaltrooper]

Had limited time last evening...but, it didn't take much time:

 

 

 

I had to trim some off of the "end caps" so they fit the CRL. Centered up the plate, then, used the first E-6000 of the build and adhered both on the Grey pipe. I made sure that the end result was 7 1/2", and the spacing from both sides of the plate are exact (again, centered). 

 

I then simply lined the clips up evenly on the end caps (all after a 24 hour cure period for the E-6000), marked and drilled small pilot holes...put the screw closest to the plate in, carefully bent the clip out, put in the "outer screw"...

 

TD completed.

 

Had to travel for work...so am losing 2 days this week...but I suppose I have to pay for this stuff...haha.

 

When I return, time for final fit and armor assembly. Trimming is done, time to get this thing together!!! 

[bmth chris[TK]]

Almost to the finish line Jon!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Caligari[TK]]

Looking great so far!  Keep up the good work! 

[Jaltrooper]

Thanks Cal and Chris!

 

Let the ASSEMBLY COMMENCE!!!!!

 

Have the first forearm drying / curing...here is what I did:

 

Measured to fit / made sure my hand could get in and out of the wrist opening. Then simply used painters tape to keep it at the correct size. 

 

 

Once I was comfortable with the fit...I taped the inside to make working around the outside easier.

 

 

Found the "middle" of the overlap on both sides, and drew a line (using the straight edge / clamped...kind of like above with my cover strips). .

 

 

Then I used my "tin snips" and carefully cut along the outside edge of the line(gives me "sanding / shaving" room) then made sure the edges fit together as tightly and cleanly as I could.

 

***Tin snip or "shears" tip - When cutting this thicker armor...you do not have to "close" the snips...work in a "open cut" manner, not letting the end of the shears close down...you will avoid any "cracks" or marred sides...just rock them keeping the material in the "crease" and it'll cut smoother / cleaner for you***

 

Sanded the edges (lightly) with my dremel and sanding drum...lower speed. Just enough to smooth it out.

 

Installing the middle strips first...so I lightly "sanded" (220 grit 3M "silicone" sandpaper - love this stuff!) the edges sot he glue would stick well. 

 

 

Then...I have to admit...I wanted to practice with the "Zap-A-Gap" / and "Zip Kicker" glue over the "E-6000". Full disclaimer...this is NOT suggested. The only reason I did...was I spent several years as a "neon tube bender" and have some experience with "measuring / fitting" 10 times, then having very limited time to put something neatly together (hot, melted glass to a pattern before it cools)...so, I tried it. It worked, and I got a good clean seam. So I did not have to wait for a 24 hour dry time. However, I did use the E-6000 on the outer strip (15mm).

 

Here is the seam:

 

 

 

Glued outer strip:

 

 

Just cut the outer strip to fit right to the edge, sanded the back of it, and a tiny run down the seam...and VOILA. 

 

Should be cured when I get home...took some time to do this one...wanted to do all of my process tests on my first piece. 

 

Should have all forearms, shins, biceps, thighs done pretty quickly...just depends on how I decide to do it.

 

At the end of the day...the fitting and detail is so important. I am lucky, it is simply about the fitting and trimming this armor right that makes all the difference for my body style. I feel great about the height piece...no shims, etc...

 

But I am trimming a lot off of the thighs, shins, forearms...etc.

 

One thing I am trying to determine...is the shoulder bells...I need to do far more research on the look and fit for accuracy on that one!

 

Should have more "assembly" pics and info soon!!!

 

Anyway...have a great evening!

 

Jon

Edited January 26, 2017 by Jaltrooper

[Jaltrooper]

Let me add a most exclamated retraction from the above post...here we go:
IF THIS IS YOUR FIRST BUILD...DO NOT USE "ZAP A GAP" (CA) GLUE...STICK WITH THE E-6000...
all I can say at the moment....

Edited January 28, 2017 by Jaltrooper

[Sol]

Let me add a most exclamated retraction from the above post...here we go:<br><br>

IF THIS IS YOUR FIRST BUILD...DO NOT USE "ZAP A GAP" (CA) GLUE...STICK WITH THE E-6000....<br><br>

all I can say at the moment....

Hope you can recover from your mistake. You're so close to being finished.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk

[Jaltrooper]

Ok....Happy Weekend everyone!

 

Figured I would expand on my last post. 

 

So, what I did, first of all, is I didn't follow my own advice from earlier in this post. Reminder...this IS a "newbie" thread haha. what I mean by that is I have seen, over 100 times "use E-6000" (glue) if you are a new builder"...and instead of listening, I figured "I can do the Zap A Gap / Zip Kicker" assembly to speed this up. 

 

So I decided to do the ZAG on the "interior strips" of my forearms. It worked...was fast, but I didn't pay attention to the glue on my glove, and got a small (very small) "spot" on my armor. I was able to get it off, but it took me an hour of very carefully using a exacto blade, X-20 thinner and 1500 grit detail sand paper. I then use (small amount) of polishing compound (never leaving the small area to avoid messing up the armor around the area)...and then used Meguilars car paste wax to get the shine back. so...disaster averted...here it is...

 

 

Other forearm is assembled as well. Lesson learned. 

 

So...moving on. Took a step back (advisable when you hit any snag!) and finished all "trimming" and started fitting all parts...

 

This weekend, I'll be assembling and posting progress...today will be the biceps, shins, and I'm starting on the AB / chest / back / kidney / posterior "Mr. No Stripes" assembly. I need to get that done, so I can get my belt on the way. 

 

More to come!

[Jaltrooper]

Couple more details on the forearm assembly. 

 

What I found through reading, was, once your alignment is good, use your painter's tape on the inside. Fit, fit, and re-fit some more. I used a few pieces inside as a "psuedo-inner strip" like this:

 

 

Then I tested inserting my hand in and out, the look and fit, etc.

 

I trimmed the outside, then just traced the inside cut off the outside. Used an exacto and 220 grit sand paper to get a good, tight seam:

 

 

Then assembled with inner strips (went a tad thicker than 15mm...to insure a good, solid bond)...

 

Here is the second forearm with clamps and magnets (E-6000...haha):

 

 

Then, back to trimming and fitting. 

 

Forearms complete (outer strips drying  curing)

[Cricket[TK]]

Nice recovery!  Looks great!

[Jaltrooper]

Thanks Cricket! That post was done whilst drinking a nice warm cup o cocoa from a certain mug I acquired!

[Jaltrooper]

I was sooooooo proud of my paint job...anyone notice anything???

 

 

Mhm...oooops.Let's see who catches it.

 

No worries, at least it was caught before submission.

 

Did my preliminary fitting of the arms from shoulder to gloves. Great news is, it all fits, no trimming on the vertical part will be necessary. All I need to do is be sure my elastic from shoulder bell to bicep is as low as I can get it...and it's going to be spot on. 

 

Mrs. Trooper asked "why isn't your "underwear" (hahaha) white?" Funny one...thought I would share.

 

Both forearms completed, fitting and trimming biceps, they will be "on the cure this evening. Shins trimmed and fitted, I'll work on getting all that in for thread purposes tomorrow, I am on a roll...and want to keep manufacturing. Also started working on the Ab / kidney / back  posterior assembly. The plan...submit by next Saturday...if my belt gets in. 

 

Wish me luck...and see who catches the oops above!

[Cricket[TK]]

Those ear screws are nekked?

[Jaltrooper]

I'm painting them after I am 100% sure I won't be disassembling anytime soon.

 

haha..nice guess. But...I painted the Tube Stripes on the wrong direction. Funny part about that was, being my "careful" self I looked it up, put the right template on the right side of the helmet, but, when I went to apply them, I "180'd" the helmet (turned it around). So, when I put them on, I was grabbing the "right" wrong one. oh, well...easy fix, new template is on the way.

 

One "tip" for my fellow newbies. Using a toothpick on DRY Humbrol paint on this ABS, it works like a charm for removing slight overages and details on the paint. You can work slowly, it doesn't "mar" or scratch the armor and you can get pretty detailed with it. I say that to give everyone a vote of confidence that even if you aren;t exactly "perfect", the paint will come off, and it isn't super difficult. So don;t panic if you "go over a line" a little, you can make the adjustment...just let the paint dry first. 

 

Speaking of painting, masked off the Ab buttons...the are painted and drying. Did it with the Tamiya masking tape...like this...

 

 

Then just painted the buttons.

 

 

Getting the biceps finished this evening...Will post build tomorrow.

 

Back to work! Happy Saturday everyone!

Edited January 29, 2017 by Jaltrooper

[Jaltrooper]

Hope everyone has had a great Weekend!

 

Had a great visit today from a local Garrison Member, Benton. He helped me get my chest / back / kidney lined up, so I can do some prelim fitting for assembly, much appreciated and got me to thinking about an "intangible" on the "newbie" side of things. And since that is what this post is about...thought I would add it in. 

 

Not getting with your local Garrison folks, which I am guilty of not doing as much, is a miss on the part of a newbie. These folks have been there, have assembled armor, and know how to keep an eye on details we newbies may miss. I met Benton at the Rouge One troop...and he was kind enough to reach out to me to offer help. I accepted...and will of course reciprocate whenever I can. I not only gained help and knowledge, but a new friend as well.

 

I am fortunate to have the Alabama Garrison as my home Garrison, and everyone I have met has been great. I tend to be a "doer" and have been focused on my research and build...but this part is what we do this for, so I figured I would add that for my fellow newbies. As Benton's visit reminded me, get out there and get to know your fellow Garrison members...it is an invaluable resource and a lot of fun to be around like-minded people! Everyone wants to help everyone..."Troopers helping Troopers" great thing!

 

So...back to the build. 

 

Biceps (except for the "hooks" for the shoulder bell attachment) and Forearms done.

 

As a side note, this is what I did to correct the above issue with my "Zap A Gap" assembly - no more CA glue on the armor...haha:

 

 

I made sure the armor was covered in painters tape, and I did several "test runs" before attempting assembly with the ZAG again. Honestly, It went very smoothly, no issues. I was very careful and deliberate with where I positioned the pieces, and made sure I got it right the first time. There is about 10 seconds from application to set up / terminal time. So knowing how to position the piece, and then being slow and deliberate, but fast enough is key. This is a personal choice on assembly, and I still recommend the E-6000 / clamp / magnet application, as does everyone else...so that is that. 

 

Anyway, on the biceps, once I fitted them to my arms, I didn't see the "offset" or "angles" others have discussed with the bicep. I did a straight fit:

 

 

Once it fitted, I got the painter's tape, and taped from the inside out. 

 

 

Then I re-fitted, with the shoulder bell and forearm with painter's tape. I also had to leave a little "growth room" as I am gaining my pneumonia weight back...and will fill in some over the next Month. So I did "add" about a 1/2" to the fit. One more test after taping it to "actual fit"...them time to trim.

 

 

Anyway, easy way to say it, after the taping & measuring, Leaving the tape on, I measured the distance between both "edges" of the individual pieces...finding the middle. I did this on both tops, then both bottoms...again, finding the center. I marked the middle top, then middle bottom, then using the straight edge, drew a pencil line (clamping the ruler) from the top to the bottom "middle" mark.

 

I removed the outer tape, cut the line using my tin snips. When doing this, I always cut the "return edge" first. I also always cut to the outside of the line. I do that on both sides. Then I lay the outside over onto the inner part, and I simply mark that line with a pencil. I make certain that the "fit" is tight before making this mark. What I mean is, I clamp the outside back down on the inner piece, I then put tension on both pieces insuring that I am not "marking wrong" or "marking short". In other words, making sure I trace the second line to the actual fit. If you just rely on the tape...you could be 1/8" off on your fit...so just be sure to pull the part tight before making the mark on the inner piece...and your seam should be perfect. 

 

Once I have all the marks made, I installed both inner strips (using the pieces cut from the outer part...and making them thicker for more stability and area to glue on) on the outer piece. I then install the inner piece on both inner strips. Cut outer cover strips @ 15mm, round the edges to fit, then install them right over the middle of the seam.

 

This is the finished product:

 

 

You can see the thicker inner strip. I really found this makes the fitting of the second piece much easier. I also like having more surface area to glue the piece together on the final inner strip assembly when you are "sealing up" the piece. Works well. 

 

I have to do some "finish trimming" around the outer strips...then we'll have these arms ready for strapping and final assembly.

 

Doing the shins as we speak, and will get more picture detail on those. Ordering my "Tkittell" belt this evening now that I have the right measurement on the Ab / kidney thanks to Benton's help!

 

Here they are!

 

 

On the way...ETA of an approval submission by next Saturday. 

 

BOOM!

Edited January 30, 2017 by Jaltrooper

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Nice work Jon. Wasn't following close enough to mention the tube strips in time, good catcg, and like you I taped off the ab buttons yet after so many builds I learned to free hand them. Practice make perfect lol. Keep up the great work.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[Jaltrooper]

I am 100% on board with that, Tony. Would've saved me some "clean up time" esp since i now have the right "detail brushes"...lesson learned. 

 

Anyone wondering if my "toothpick paint removal" system works...voila!

 

 

Nary a scratch, mar or blemish. 

 

Anyway, disaster averted, and I think with the one practice run, I really should nail the re-paint, so no bubbles, no troubles. Have the "hard hat liner" on the way, and will get that installed, the lenses in, and paint the screws on the ears. Really like the helmet. It is solid and feels like it'll last through many great troops. 

 

Working on the shoulder bells, bicep hooks and arm strapping now. Have the Ab / mid-section all fitted, taped and ready for install as well. 

 

Going to be a fast and furious week. Have to travel for work, but taking my mid-section, drill, rulers, thread, snaps, rivets and some other tools with me so I can work on the mid section at my hotel. Should be amusing to see people's reaction to me carrying my armor into a marriott! Haha. Pushing for completion...getting there. going faster on the armor, and it's cutting into my thread time, but, I'll get it all in.

 

Have a great week all.

 

Jon 

Edited January 31, 2017 by Jaltrooper

[Jaltrooper]

Wanted to pass on a great tip from my pal Benton (thanks Brosef!)

 

http://www.renaissancedancewear.com/stormtrooper.html

 

What it is is a "Rennaisance Dancewear" lycra "unitard" undersuit. Looks pretty cool, customizeable, and not too expensive. 

 

Just in case anyone is interested in a different winter suit / under garment. 

 

Great tip!

[Jaltrooper]

Moving right along.

 

Fit / trimmed the Shoulder bells. The AM bells are fairly big. I found the ""ANH Stunt" standard measurement on them, which is 12" x 5"...that is about the apparent #.

 

So, I took the measuring tape:

 

 

Holding at center, measured up (staying on the curve, purpose of the tape) to 12". Then marked at the 12" #.

 

I had also checked / fit them. If left where they were, I would have had way too big a bell...so the fit was right about dead-on. 

 

Here is the "5"

 

 

The 12"

 

 

Then I just used the ol trusty "seam marking tool" on the "armpit" (long) side, Set it at the 12" mark I made, then traced the cut line like this:

 

 

Made a clean cut (being careful around the "hump"...you can crack the armor here. I used the exacto blade to remove this area, to be safe. The rest was cut with my "exacto" scissors (these):

 

 

Did a test fit, Ready for assembly.

 

Also went ahead and bent my bicep "hooks". Something I was thinking on these, they will be right on the inside of the arm, so there is a possibility for aggravating that area on a long troop. Not that I have the experience, yet. So, I made sure I removed (lightly) all the square edges. I even rounded off the bottom to be more "unnoticeable" and unobtrusive. Have to think about these things, I guess on pieces that you are putting in those "spots". Here's what I did with the exacto and sandpaper:

 

 

 

Just made sure everything was "rounded off" to avoid issues later. 

 

Then, sanded the area inside the bicep, sanded the piece where the E-6000 goes, applied to both sides, and clamped.

 

 

Love those Irwin clamps...they do great!

 

Anyway...sorry for the delays in the thread....I am taking pics...but I am furiously trying to push to finish. But, I am paying attention to detail!!!

 

Remember this?

 

 

Haha...done and done. Will get the shin pics and build in next...preview...

 

 

Hint, hint...do your research on AM shins...fit carefully and use E-6000!! (they are the pieces that get stressed the most!

 

More to come! 

 

Jon

[Jaltrooper]

Had a minute this morning...so I thought I would share how I am getting the "Ab Buttons" measured and ready / trimmed for the Ab plate.

 

I started with measuring the "mounting area" on the ab plate, edge-to-edge...like this:

 

 

 

For the AM, It's 3 5/8" "tall" x 2 1/2" "wide"...so, taking that measurement, and considering I need some "edge" around the button plate, did this:

 

 

Since the "width" is 2 1/2", look at where the ruler is. I find the "middle" of the 2 1/2" measurement (1 1/4") and that gets placed in the center of the button plate...I then do my "cutting marks" at 0 and 2 1/2".

 

I do the Same for the "height"...

 

 

That "center is 1 6/8"....so I lined that up to the center of the plate...then marked at 0 and 3 5/8".

 

 

Notice how the line isn't exactly through the center of my marks in a couple of spots...I used a "speed square" to make sure that the lines were exactly 90 degrees,and used the mark that was the further from the center...so I can trim to fit. As I have seen a lot, always better to trim to leave more material than to cut too much off. 

 

Then, I grabbed my cut-proof gloves, and "shaved" to the outside of the lines with my utility blade, like this (this is the smaller button plate):

 

 

I then did the exact same to the smaller one.

 

This measurement was 7/8" "wide" x 2 3/4" "tall". 

 

 

Notice my "center line" on this one...felt like it helped me keep everything "square"

 

 

Here is the same "trim box" for the smaller plate:

 

 

So I "shave" both pieces to about this close to the lines:

 

 

 

Then to get a nice, smooth / uniform edge, I just sand it with the dremel sanding drum (slow speed / carefully):

 

 

Do some double-checks to make sure it looks how I want...and boom...done...

 

 

 

I want to do all my install work on the Ab before permanently installing the buttons, just to be sure I don't mar the paint.

 

Also, I haven;t "cleaned up" the button paint yet, so those will be a tad sharper and crisper when done.

 

Gotta get to work! 

 

Later everyone!

 

Jon

Edited February 3, 2017 by Jaltrooper