Jaltrooper's ANH Stunt "Tall Guy / Newbie" AM 2.0 Build

[SheaJeff[TK]]

For the cheek gap, you need to drill and put a bolt on the tube shape to hold them together.

Do a search on various AM builds for specifics on this!

I believe I have a build threat in the Heavy Weapons Trooper section with photos. I'm on my phone right now so I can't look it up, but mine and someone else's clearly show the cheek screws to pull the tubes in.

 

Another mistake I make was thinking that the ears were somehow structural and worked to hold the face and back together. Wrong! Once you get the cheeks pulled in, you trim the ears to fit and they slip right over a secure face/back.

 

Search for the cheek screws to save yourself the grief on this helmet!

[SheaJeff[TK]]

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38579-am-20-bucket-questions/

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26301-NE-helmet-build

 

Try these

[SheaJeff[TK]]

 

Don't make the mistake I did; trying to line everything up and squeeze it in using the ears!

 

Once you have it secure like this, take your time with the ears and they will slip right on.  I have virtually no gap on mine.

Edited January 16, 2017 by SheaJeff

[Caligari[TK]]

Nice work so far!  My helmet came pre-assembled form Anovos so I can't comment much on that part, but I'll refer back here when I do build a helmet from scratch.  Keep up the great work!

[Jaltrooper]

Thank Jeff...you know the most obvious things, right?

 

Once I got the rivet in on the right left side, it shifted into place...My biggest concern was the "room" for the tube stripes. This will solve both issues. 

 

Much obliged!

 

Thanks Cal! Should get this thing buttoned up and prepped for "Plasti-Dip" later this evening. Then will start on the shins and work up from there! 

 

Thanks all!

[Jaltrooper]

So...fixed it:

 

 

Secured all bolts...this happened:

 

 

Too big? Fix it? Or leave it alone?

 

Looks good from the back:

 

 

From the front:

 

 

So I am thinking about leaving it. I actually think I nailed the trap / eye / tear alignment...got the look I want on the brow...

 

Now...to the detail fixes on the painting (please ignore...had too many Dews that morning). Plasti-Dip and lenses. 

 

Update...gained 5lbs back...on my way. 

 

Shins, AB / Kidney / chest / Back (so I can get my belt on the way)...next. 

 

This is taxing...but worth every drill bit in the finger (be careful). 

 

See ya'll tomorrow!

 

Jon

[Jaltrooper]

P.S. any input on the "flat black" vs. "Humbrol Gloss Black" on the mic tips would be greatly appreciate it!

 

Thanks all!

[Caligari[TK]]

P.S. any input on the "flat black" vs. "Humbrol Gloss Black" on the mic tips would be greatly appreciate it!

 

Thanks all!

Mine appear to be more of a 'satin' black, which is in between  flat and gloss to make things more confusing.  I'm using the speaker Hovi-tips UKSWrath supplies, so I'm sure they're the right color.  Definitely not flat black.  I think the Humbrol version is called 'coal black'?

Edited January 17, 2017 by Caligari

[SheaJeff[TK]]

You can do better on those gaps if you want; lots of little filing and re attaching but it was worth it to me.

 

[Jaltrooper]

Yeah...Just need to lower the left one...actually, the "problem child" looks far better in person than in pics. 

 

I'll fix it. 

[Jaltrooper]

And Thanks Cal...got it. It's a "black" not gloss, semi-gloss, flat...but just "black".

[Caligari[TK]]

And Thanks Cal...got it. It's a "black" not gloss, semi-gloss, flat...but just "black".

Shoot a PM to Tony (ukswrath) and ask him to make sure.  When I went back and looked at my humbrol cans the satin looked less glossy so maybe it really is gloss black?

[ukswrath[Staff]]

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Looks like the left ear is a bit higher than the right. Is this what you're referring to?

[Jaltrooper]

Thanks Tony. I was trying to experiment with closing the gaps. The thickness of the helmet is unforgiving side to side. I can fix all but these small gaps.

[Jaltrooper]

And believe it or not...both ears measure 1 1/4" from brow to center of the rank stripes...on the nose.

[Jaltrooper]

So...when you going to get started with your build, Jon...How about now?

 

Haha. Doing the finishing touches on the helmet tomorrow. Test-fitted the "s-shaped" gasket on the bottom of the helmet. Have been doing some paint clean up. Need to put the stripes in the tears and traps, finish the Mic-Tip painting and do do the tube stripes. So I should have one fully-functional Bucket by tomorrow p.m.

 

I the mean time, I started on the trimming of my shins. Have read a couple of "how to do AM Shins"...appears there was some complications, but frankly, it is cut (no pun intended) and dry.

 

 

The "taller" of the two pieces, when sitting as pictured, are the "outside" of the shins...with the shorter ones being the interior / calfs. Once I determined that...I just put a piece of painter's tape on the inside of each piece...like this:

 

 

RO = "Right Outside" - RI = "Right inside".

 

After reading a few builds...the top of the shins really needs to keep the "return edge" on it. It appears the consensus is about 1/8" return edge . So, I did this...

 

 

This is a "sewing measuring tool" used for marking even widths on fabric. It was about $1.98 at Hobby Lobby. I set it on 1/8", then used a pencil to draw a smooth 1/8" line around the existing return edge for trimming.

 

Used the scissors for the straight parts (Exacto heavy duty lexan shears) then trimmed the corners (wanted a smooth curve) with my Utility Knife and Exacto knife (#2). Here is a "before (left) / after (right) " on the return edges:

 

 

I have 3 of the 4 trimmed. Then....let the building commence! 

 

I'll be getting this build really off the ground tomorrow! 

 

More on the way!!!!

 

Thanks all,

 

Jon

[Jaltrooper]

P.S. Tools for trimming:

 

 

return edge closeup (not sanded yet):

 

[Jaltrooper]

Ok,

 
Today, really got to work on some trimming and Bucket detail. For the bucket, this is what I decided to do...100% hand painting, no stickers. This is a flat-out Basic to EIB to Centurion build right out of the gate...so...have to hand paint.

 

I am going to run to the Hobby Shop this evening to get a smaller detail brush, but here is how I "lined up" the helmet in preparation for the vertical stripes:

 

 

Using 1/4" "Tamiya" masking tape (made for models / enamel), I measured the "stickers" included in my AM kit. While it looks level, it is a slight difference from the left to right, based on the measurements. I put the masking tape down (top and bottom) on the right measurements, then, took a piece and put it directly on the sticker. Took a pencil and marked the center of each vertical line. Once I get the smaller brush, I will use it like a pencil, and just draw the best line I can from top to bottom...and we'll see if I can nail it. Since the screen helmets were hand-painted, as long as I am not messy, I should get a great look. I am going to have to free hand the tears, but looking at it, as long as the length is right, I should be good following the "curvature" in the tears.

Yes, those are painted tube stripes also. I did use the "Trooperbay" Hand-Painted template for those. I am decent at painting, but not that darn good. I'll post pictures once the paint has dried and I have used a toothpick to get them where I want them. More pics to come on the close-to-completed bucket.

 

I painted the Mic-tips with my Humbrol #21 black per the above paint chart from Tony ("Ukswrath"). I used some of the mini-masking tape to make sure I didn't get any black in the interior. 

 

 

Speaking of Tony...I got my "TD Clips" today that I ordered from him. I'll give him some props...for the $, you simply can't beat this quality. It would have cost me in gas, buying the aluminum, getting the right screws, time, possible mess-ups., researching the right / exact measurements, etc., etc. While I am a fan of "making my stuff" I highly recommend these clips. So...since all AM 2.0 armor comes without these...that's my tip on em...let Tony do it - worth every dime. Here they are:

 

 

Also, to hit Centurion, I have to remove the "return edges" from the forearms. So after the helmet work, I went back to trimming:

 

 

 

I still have to sand these, and I am also going to research if I am supposed to get rid of the edge up into the "raised part" of the forearm. And find out if the "elbow side" is supposed to have the RE off as well.

 

After getting the return edges on the shins right, then these, I am really getting comfortable with the Utility blade, exacto scissors and exacto knife. With the thickness of this armor, I am essentially "whittling" off the ABS plastic with the above, and each time I do it, I get more and more confident. At the end of the day...being "slim" I will be trimming...not adding (lucky me) so accuracy with the blades will be crucial as I go through.

 

I should also point out, the AM armor "vertically" is hitting the mark. The shin test-fit (will get some pictures in later), puts them RIGHT where I want them ankle-to-knee. It is almost as if they were made for me. So, as I go through this build...most of the stuff should hit vertically...it will be the thickness I have to work through. Which, essentially means...trimming accurately to fit. I have seen it 100 times "measure twice cut once". So, if I do my measuring and fitting as accurately as possible, this should be a relatively smooth build given my new-found confidence in trimming.

 

Hope everyone has a great weekend!!!!

Edited January 21, 2017 by Jaltrooper

[ukswrath[Staff]]

 

[R2Chris[TK]]

Return edge on forearms at the elbows is fine.  It is just at the wrists you need to have no return edge for Centurion.

 

For Centurion I think they will ask to have the return edge removed right up into that "raised part" at the wrist end of the forearm.  Have a look through the Centurion applications as I recall seeing some asked to take that part out.

 

Looks better the way you have it now in my opinion, but that is the way to go for accuracy I guess.  You can find a good forearm picture in the photo reference galleries here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/2906-dsc02592jpg/

[Jaltrooper]

Thanks Chris! 

 

I couldn't remember where to look for those pics. I agree, having the indentation kind of has a "cleaner" look...but...if I am going for Centurion...have to be accurate so I'll trim those out. 

 

By the looks of these pics, it also looks like the Elbow side doesn't have a return edge, either..drat. I think some RE gives the armor a "thicker  / more crisp" look. But, again, if I am going for Centurion, it is what it is. 

 

I'll check out the submission / approvals and see.

 

Good stuff, much obliged!

[Jaltrooper]

Morning all! 

 

Early riser here! 

 

So, this morning, I did all my "Return edge" and "cover strip" research...as I am about to start armor assembly. Here was what I found regarding cover strips:

 

(2) Shins / Front - 20mm (2 cm)

(2) Shins / Rear - 25 mm (2.5 cm)

(4) Forearms front / rear - 15 mm (1.5 cm)

(4) Biceps front / rear - 15 mm (1.5 cm)

(4) Thighs front / rear - 20 mm (2 cm)

 

Cut all pieces the full length of the extra material...should give me plenty of strips for the job.

 

So I got to trimming. The AM 2.0 kit has plenty of spare ABS. So I trimmed all these up. Here's how I did it:

 

 

 

First, I do what is known as a "cutting mark" in welding and fabrication. My construction pencil is shaved (with an exacto) to be very thin / pointed. You place the tip of the pencil right on the mark, then "v" off of it. Looks like this when done:

 

 

I do 3 "v's" same measurement, 2 close to the end, one in the middle. This allows you to simply rest your steel ruler edge right in the v's center. Lines up a perfect straight line. 

 

 

I then take my 2 board clamps...keeping the "shiny" side down on the mat / fabric on my cutting board...and clamp one on each end.

 

 

I use the clamps, but notice my "cut proof gloves" (please wear them...why risk it)...I firmly press on the center too, to make sure there is no way the Blades "runs under" the ruler.

 

 

You can see...all 3 line up perfectly. I then simply hold the Utility knife vertically, and do 4 solid "scores" making sure it is on the ruler:

 

 

It is critical you keep the utility blade at 90 degrees vertical. If you "angle it" it can float away from your line. I make a nice, smooth first pass, pressing down with some force, but not jamming it. 

 

the next 2 passes are travelling in the first pass' edge...so they'll run straight. First pass is crucial to accuracy.

 

I then remove the clamps and ruler. This is what I get:

 

 

Easy channel to rest the utility blade in. I make 2 passes...then simply snap off the pieces. 

 

All done. What I am doing is labeling each piece, and setting them with my trimmed pieces. 

 

 

I know this one seems self-explanatory...but I stared at it for a bit...and my first couple the other day didn't go so well...so...I figured I would engineer my own best way to do it...and share it. 

 

For the record...all my cover strips are 100% accurate based on what the requirements and most see as the standard...so...I have that licked. Still trimming and working on fitting.

 

I am going to be pretty ready to do joining and strapping. This thing is REALLY coming together.

 

Thanks to all the build threads and info on the site. I feel like all the reading and prep work is about to really pay off. Once the gluing starts...it's going to be Fast and Furious...haha.

 

Have a great weekend!

 

Jon 

Edited January 21, 2017 by Jaltrooper

[Jaltrooper]

Just a quick trimming affirmation on the Butt plate:

 

This looks deceiving, but, going with the "1/8" return edge" for comfort on the butt plate, and having seen 100 pics on this...all this extra material goes, right?

 

 

From all I have seen, some folks leave too much of this on...so I am just verifying that I need to trim on this pencil line, then affix the snaps accordingly.

 

Thanks for any input...99% sure of myself on this one...but not going to trim this till I get a "yea"...haha.

[Sol]

Thanks for being so thorough! Are you going to use mr nostripes strapping system? I'm leaning in that direction for my build.

 

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