DamnitDavid[TK] Posted January 14, 2017 Author Report Posted January 14, 2017 (edited) I started by marking 4" and 6.5" on the bars. I then used a bit of papertowel to protect the metal and clamped it even with the edge of the pipe. I rolled the strip until the 4" line touched the pipe. I marked the 6.5" with a piece of tape and clamped to a scope rail attempt (too short) then bent it completely around. I marked the back edges 3mm from the cornerscamd used that as a guide to round them off. For the ends i eyeballed it and curled them out a tad with some pliers. Edited January 15, 2017 by DamnitDavid Quote
DamnitDavid[TK] Posted January 14, 2017 Author Report Posted January 14, 2017 After checking the crl, Other build threads, etc. The numbers I was using for the plate of 122mm. With a 12mm gap between the panels and end caps were from someones build. He was just posting his measurements. Then others posted with the measurements on their TD's as well. After the dry fit I am good for 7.5 inches (190.5mm). The plate is 120mm long 95wide. So I didn't have to build it up with abs paste. So my oops moment worked out ok. I will paint it later, then assemble and glue and screw. I'm still debating where to start next, but I'll call that part good till the rain goes away. Quote
cwolfe[TK] Posted January 14, 2017 Report Posted January 14, 2017 I'm still not seeing and pics David. Quote
DamnitDavid[TK] Posted January 14, 2017 Author Report Posted January 14, 2017 Are the fb links working? I watch the video you posted and swapped over to using the laptop. I will go through and edit when i get home so they pop up. Quote
cwolfe[TK] Posted January 14, 2017 Report Posted January 14, 2017 No, Copy image address from FB Paste in image properties. Quote
DamnitDavid[TK] Posted January 15, 2017 Author Report Posted January 15, 2017 and all image links up to this point have been fixed...i did not go through and insert my doopy build. that link should open the fb album though. i need to paint and glue the counter, rework the trigger, glue trigger guard, then paint. since i have a hyperfirm i am waiting to finish it till i get my TK finished Quote
DamnitDavid[TK] Posted January 15, 2017 Author Report Posted January 15, 2017 i went through when i did my parts inventory when i got my armor and marked the inside of all the left pieces with blue type this is barely laid on here to see if it is correct. i think i have them right but i am not 100% these pieces marked with an L were slightly longer than the pieces that are not marked. when held together they seem to match up pretty well 1 Quote
DamnitDavid[TK] Posted January 15, 2017 Author Report Posted January 15, 2017 i am not certain where to start, so i am going with what males sense to me rouogh cut, needs cleaned up but since i wasnt sure on how much return edge to leave i just followed the mold lines this was a little tricky i think more needs to come off, but i am ok with it for now Quote
DamnitDavid[TK] Posted January 15, 2017 Author Report Posted January 15, 2017 This lil wing/pinch on the armor. It is only about an inch long. I left it for now. I think most of it will get removed when the front gets cut down to size the armor, and it will be behind the knee plate (if this is indeed the left shin) Quote
DamnitDavid[TK] Posted January 15, 2017 Author Report Posted January 15, 2017 started painting, forgot to mask it off si i placed on he plate. traced it, then uded the dremel polishing wheel to remove the paint. taped it off and did another quote of primer. this is too lite i will get something else Quote
DamnitDavid[TK] Posted January 15, 2017 Author Report Posted January 15, 2017 i am now looking on how to do this part. here it is marked at 1cm. the majority of that pinched section will get cut off. so that isnt bad. i measured the largest part of my calf and it is at 40 cm the inside of both parts of the are are 26 each so 52 inner diameter i can trim a lot off before i have to worry about the calf being to small. Quote
cwolfe[TK] Posted January 15, 2017 Report Posted January 15, 2017 I had the same pinch. You can drop a little CA in behind it and then sand down the front. If there's still som there after the trim anyway. Once you hit it with some 1200 sandpaper, use some plastic polish and you wont even see it. Novus plastic polish is great stuff. 1 Quote
DamnitDavid[TK] Posted January 15, 2017 Author Report Posted January 15, 2017 Thanks for your help with the pics. <br> I dont figure it will be much of an issue.<br> Double checking threads to make sure I am trimming properly. Quote
DamnitDavid[TK] Posted January 15, 2017 Author Report Posted January 15, 2017 i taped off above the return edge trimmed with lexan scissors cleaned up with the dremmel and sanded i covered the oencil line with some thin masking tape clamped the ruller and cut scored halfway, flipped and repeated the process from the other end pretty flat with some wiggle room if i need to adjust front and back. i have 1.5-2.5 inches of overlap. after i look more on trimming the backs, i will take that plunge for the top i marked inside the mold line with a pencil, drilled 2 holes to help pivot the scissors and trimmed. i will finish those off when i see how much return edge to leave i switched gears for a minute until i can finish researching my calf pieces. the big piece with all the buttons and the button plate. taped off and trimmed, and the smaller one is nice and thin. i am also looking for how muvh return edge, and the thickness for this piece. will the little dimples in the plastic effect anything or will it be trimmed off? Quote
cwolfe[TK] Posted January 15, 2017 Report Posted January 15, 2017 I'll let someone else chime in. I haven't started evaluating this part of the build yet. Quote
cwolfe[TK] Posted January 15, 2017 Report Posted January 15, 2017 When your sizing the thighs and what not make sure to wear something thinner than jeans. The body suit is going to be very tight fitting. Quote
DamnitDavid[TK] Posted January 15, 2017 Author Report Posted January 15, 2017 for the calf and shin, i measured my calf and ankle. i also measured the inside of the armor. it appears really bulky at the calf when overlapped and is huge when flush at the back. I need to do some research around the forums, what makes sense to me is to cut it an angle. to remove some of the bulk from the calf, while still being the proper size to fit over my boots. so i think i should cut the white area with the blue X. calf is 40 cm and one half of the armor is 26cm. my ankle is 31.5 cm and about 32-32.5 cm inside the armor (i cant remember the exact measurement my notebook is on the work bench) from sewing i think that would work. Quote
DamnitDavid[TK] Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Posted January 16, 2017 No one else eber reads it but you. Lol. Quote
DamnitDavid[TK] Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Posted January 16, 2017 And the jeans were to show how large they are. And still have a lot of overlap 1 Quote
cwolfe[TK] Posted January 16, 2017 Report Posted January 16, 2017 I bet some one else chimes in, especially since you got the picture thing figured out.I'm saving the back of my shins for last. I think that may be one of the most troublesome points. CW Quote
DamnitDavid[TK] Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Posted January 16, 2017 For the shin/calf i marked off the top with 1/8 low tack masking tape. Two passes for 1/4" before and after trimming. If i need less edge then i can do a single pass and trim again. Similar process for the thighs. The tops I did a layer on the return edge and a layer on the outer edge so I can trim for no return edge or 1/8" return edge. I have seen threads with both and have not decided wich one to do. Lastly. Determing which thigh is which. The marked thighs are both shorter. I hve not done any trimming. Just marked them off and I called it done for the night. I may not get to make a lot of progress for the next few days. Quote
DamnitDavid[TK] Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Posted January 16, 2017 I bet some one else chimes in, especially since you got the picture thing figured out.I'm saving the back of my shins for last. I think that may be one of the most troublesome points. CW Thanks again for the help with that. It is a little pic heavy. (i haven't posted all of them either) If i document before, during, and after. It may help someone else down the road. Quote
DamnitDavid[TK] Posted January 17, 2017 Author Report Posted January 17, 2017 I proceeded with the thighs this evening. I went ahead and cut the front using the same process i did on the shin. Mark at 10mm, clamp, score, scissors from ends to score line, snap. For the thigh tops and bottoms. I vut at my first taoe line on each. Following advice a local member and his centurian build. I left the 1/8" return edge at the top and 1/4" at the bottom. If i need to trim down more, i left the other tape line on and can do that later. Quote
DamnitDavid[TK] Posted January 17, 2017 Author Report Posted January 17, 2017 I plan to measure and mark the other calf piece, and the thigh backs tomorrow night. Quote
troopermaster Posted January 17, 2017 Report Posted January 17, 2017 (edited) found the measurements I was looking for and will trim it tomorrow. I went with 13mm on the right side of the control bar, 123mm long (which I can trim down to 122), and i marked 90mm wide with black tape and layed white over that at 95mm with marks at 85. (i saw different widths) I will trim to 95 since it is super close to the mold lines. Where did you find the measurements? They are not correct to the original ANH prop. The full length of the detonator is 185mm (7 1/4"), end caps are 20mm (3/4") and the control panel is 115mm (4 1/2"). Edited January 17, 2017 by troopermaster Quote
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