inv8r Posted September 30, 2016 Report Posted September 30, 2016 K, so having spent multiple nights staring at my forearms, taping them smaller, taping them to the cut lines, taping them super duper smaller, staring at them some more I've managed to paralyze myself into not being able to assemble them at all now due to all the second guessing. I've taken the wrist return edges off, and trimmed the insane amount of too-biggishness off the front butt join surface from the right forearm (leaving an ugly mismatch at the top, but I'm assuming that's fixable...somehow). I've been through a metric ton of build threads trying to get a sense of what the actual FIT should be on them, but as most threads focus on the actual assembly rather than figuring out the fit (I get that UKWrath's build mentions taking measurements of your arms, but don't really get how those translate to the armor) am just as confused as when I started. . Initially I thought the idea was to bring the wrist end in as tight as possible while still barely being able to scrape my hand through (seriously, I had them taped so tight that I could do it, but was giving myself abrasions across the back of my hand - maaaaaybe not), and reducing the elbow end until it's snug against skin. Looking at more and more threads though, I'm starting to get the feeling that they actually should be assembled pretty much as Anovos indicated from their trim lines, which leaves (based on some of the pics I'm seeing) significantly more space at both the wrist and elbow. Two questions I'm really, REALLY hoping for an answer to if anyone can help out - First, can anyone give me some solid advice about how they should fit. Second, using E6000, how realistic is it to think that, should I assemble the things without trimming further, I will be able to pull them apart at the back side later to trim down that seam if they just look absurdly large, without damaging the pieces? Anyways, really hoping for some advice so I can get moving again on this build without feeling like I've doing irreparable harm to the kit. Thanks!!!! 1 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 30, 2016 Report Posted September 30, 2016 Hey David sorry to hear you're having issues. Why don't you post some pictures so we have a better idea of what's going on. Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted September 30, 2016 Report Posted September 30, 2016 Tony is spot-on there, David. Pictures really help to determine what will be the best route to go. I would suggest one showing your wrist inside as you have it now, and one of the top and bottom opening.. You should definitely leave some room for a few reasons. You will need to be able to tuck your gloves underneath, and you don't want the ABS to dig into your wrist from being too tight. Also, before fitting, I would remove all the return edges on the tops and bottoms if you haven't done so already. This will give you a better idea of the final fit, make them more comfortable to wear, and will not affect your approvals even up to Centurion, which I hope you are aiming for. As for E-6000, I highly recommend using it. If you do have to end up pulling them apart for some reason, you can. Putting them in the freezer for a while will help (seriously) if it comes to that. Don't get discouraged, sir. Hang in there, and we can and will find a way to get you sorted out. Quote
mikidymac[TK] Posted September 30, 2016 Report Posted September 30, 2016 I had a similar problem as you, I have large forearms but very small wrists. After trimming quite a bit I was at the point that they were starting to get too out of shape and tapered looking. I stopped at that point and decided to leave some return edge on the wrists so they didn't need to be so small to close the wrist gap and will settle for basic approval for now. Once I go for Centurion I will probably remove the return edge and maybe wear some soft gauntlet gloves under my rubber gloves to fill the gap for the approval. Quote
inv8r Posted September 30, 2016 Author Report Posted September 30, 2016 Thanks guys, will do on pics once I'm home tonight. Yeah, the build so far (what there is of it) is all E6000 apart from the T-det, which was simple enough to just CA. On the return edges, my impression was that it was preferable to leave it wherever possible, with the exception of the wrists and ankles. I think I'm going to have to trim it down a little on the elbow end just for movement, but I wasn't planning to completely removing it there - something that should be reconsidered? Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted September 30, 2016 Report Posted September 30, 2016 You may find that leaving it on in that area will be uncomfortable, but that will depend on how tight it fits. If you find there is no problem, then by all means leave it on. If you find that in the future it needs to be removed, you may have to remove the cover strip and tighten up the seam so that it's not too loose afterward. I wouldn't worry about that for now, though! There are several areas where you can safely remove the return edges, including the tops of the thighs. I recommend this because they can really dig in and chafe you, especially after a few hours in your armor. Again, doing this will not affect any approvals. Quote
inv8r Posted October 1, 2016 Author Report Posted October 1, 2016 (edited) Okay, here are (way too many ) pictures. Starting to realize just WHY there aren't a whole lot of fitting pictures form other people's builds! LEFT RIGHT With the piece pushed up, to show the whole gap For BONUS points, since I've got you fine gents looking, would you have a look at this pic of my biceps: I screwed up reading a tutorial and thought that the biceps needed to be trimmed more snugly. I finished the left, but then when I went to tackle the right thought "hold on, that doesn't look correct on the left side now", so assembled it as per the Anovos trim lines. It fits looser, but the left is a little binding when I flex. Since I've cut away material (and tapered that cut on an angle) I don't know how easy it would be to replace it, and I'm hoping I can just remove some return edge there to improve the fit. In terms of appearance though, how bad is it? Thanks, guys!!!!!! (sorry about the sizez, I've reduced the pics drastically in PS, so I'm not sure why they're showing up so enormous) Edited October 1, 2016 by inv8r Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted October 1, 2016 Report Posted October 1, 2016 On the forearms, you still have a lot of the return edges you can remove, David. In the next to last picture in your last post, you will notice how there is a "point" at the seam on the top of the forearm. This should be leveled off. For a perfect example of how this should look, check out the pics on Theo's (ScaryGuy) Centurion submission thread... (especially the top 2 photos): http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38605-tk-31026-requesting-anh-stunt-centurion-status-anovos274/. As for the biceps, again, you can take more of the return edge off when you level out the seams to give you a bit more room. Here are 2 photos from one of my biceps: Quote
inv8r Posted October 1, 2016 Author Report Posted October 1, 2016 Thanks, yes, definitely the plan as far as evening up the elbow end. My thinking though has been to try and figure out the overall forearm sizing before that though, so if there's any further trimming for width, I can clean that area up all at once. Thanks for the thread recommendation - haven't seen that build, so I'll check it out. On the topic of actual sizing for the forearm - do those look too loose, or do you think I can assemble as is? Quote
mikidymac[TK] Posted October 2, 2016 Report Posted October 2, 2016 In my unprofessional opinion. It looks just fine especially once you have your undersuit and gloves on. A little foam in the forearms will even it up. You can then remove all the return edge if going for higher levels of approval. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 2, 2016 Report Posted October 2, 2016 Great advice guys, remember the only return edge required to be remove is on the wrist side. As a matter of fact the unevenness of the inner and outer halves is actually screen accurate however, we advise leveling it out to avoid pinch points, but it's not a requirement either. Here's some reference pictures. Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted October 2, 2016 Report Posted October 2, 2016 The only problem you may run into if you trim off the return edges after getting it to fit comfortably and gluing it is that you might find it too loose. It should fit well and give a good range of motion without flopping around. Like Tony shows in the screen-used armor shots above, the unevenness is absolutely accurate, but can really be uncomfortable. 1 Quote
inv8r Posted October 2, 2016 Author Report Posted October 2, 2016 The only problem you may run into if you trim off the return edges after getting it to fit comfortably and gluing it is that you might find it too loose. It should fit well and give a good range of motion without flopping around. Like Tony shows in the screen-used armor shots above, the unevenness is absolutely accurate, but can really be uncomfortable. Gotcha - I hadn't thought of that. So the plan should be to trim the return edge down on the elbow end to something more like 1/8", and THEN go for size. Once that's done, just in terms of fit, should it be a little loose, or snug to skin? I think the pics give a good idea of how much of a gap I have at the elbows and wrists right now; after taking down the return edge, if I ended up trimming the forearms a bit to maintain a similar gap, does that look okay for fit? Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted October 2, 2016 Report Posted October 2, 2016 It should be a little loose so that you can move around comfortably without it binding or rubbing on your skin. Taking it down to 1/8 sounds great. The opening at the top of the elbow looks about right, but the wrist opening (fourth from the bottom) looks as if there may be too much room. It should be wide enough to put your hand through fairly easily. 1 Quote
inv8r Posted October 3, 2016 Author Report Posted October 3, 2016 It should be a little loose so that you can move around comfortably without it binding or rubbing on your skin. Taking it down to 1/8 sounds great. The opening at the top of the elbow looks about right, but the wrist opening (fourth from the bottom) looks as if there may be too much room. It should be wide enough to put your hand through fairly easily. Thanks!!!! Exactly the info and help I was hoping for, and I'm moving again! Starting on the left forearm, because, honestly, I'm not sure how to deal with the mismatch on the right side and leave some amount of return to make it not look just totally weird transitioning from the low to high spots, I've taken the elbow end down to more like 6mm rather than 1/8th" at the moment. Mobility is already much improved, and next I'll taper the whole thing a bit, then move on to tackle the right one. Quote
fishgoh0nk[TK] Posted June 20, 2018 Report Posted June 20, 2018 On 10/2/2016 at 12:51 PM, justjoseph63 said: It should be a little loose so that you can move around comfortably without it binding or rubbing on your skin. Taking it down to 1/8 sounds great. The opening at the top of the elbow looks about right, but the wrist opening (fourth from the bottom) looks as if there may be too much room. It should be wide enough to put your hand through fairly easily. I have a question about this - i think i have decent sized hands, but wrist is a bit small, so my hand can just about fit without having to manipulate/squeeze the wrist openings, but once through, it seems like there's a large wrist gap. Should be the wrist opening be smaller so I would have to put some pressure to squeeze my hand through? Or should it go through with ease? Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted June 20, 2018 Report Posted June 20, 2018 41 minutes ago, fishgoh0nk said: I have a question about this - i think i have decent sized hands, but wrist is a bit small, so my hand can just about fit without having to manipulate/squeeze the wrist openings, but once through, it seems like there's a large wrist gap. Should be the wrist opening be smaller so I would have to put some pressure to squeeze my hand through? Or should it go through with ease? If using neoprene (rubber) gloves they'll take up a good portion of the slack or gap between the armor and wrist. Quote
fishgoh0nk[TK] Posted June 21, 2018 Report Posted June 21, 2018 (edited) 10 hours ago, ukswrath said: If using neoprene (rubber) gloves they'll take up a good portion of the slack or gap between the armor and wrist. I actually have the Anovos dish washer rubber gloves, not much thickness at all. I guess i'm worried about constant pressure on the joints putting them on and taking them off. If I were to cinch it up, how risky is it to have the joints come apart? I plan to use E6000, single strip join on the butts. Here are some photos of how the fitment is. Even with hand cupped, I barely make it through the cuff without touching. Edited June 21, 2018 by fishgoh0nk Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted June 21, 2018 Report Posted June 21, 2018 You'll be fine, just let the glue cure for 48 hours before forcing your hand through the wrist end. 1 Quote
fishgoh0nk[TK] Posted June 21, 2018 Report Posted June 21, 2018 5 minutes ago, ukswrath said: You'll be fine, just let the glue cure for 48 hours before forcing you hand through the wrist end. Thanks! Quote
CableGuy[TK] Posted June 21, 2018 Report Posted June 21, 2018 I actually have the Anovos dish washer rubber gloves, not much thickness at all. I guess i'm worried about constant pressure on the joints putting them on and taking them off. If I were to cinch it up, how risky is it to have the joints come apart? I plan to use E6000, single strip join on the butts. Here are some photos of how the fitment is. Even with hand cupped, I barely make it through the cuff without touching. Hiya,Just a quick heads up - the raised detail/ridge goes on the top of the forearm. Based on that, just switch this one to the other forearm. :-)Example below with the ridge on the top of Han’s right forearm. :-)Dan Quote
fishgoh0nk[TK] Posted June 21, 2018 Report Posted June 21, 2018 11 hours ago, CableGuy said: Hiya, Just a quick heads up - the raised detail/ridge goes on the top of the forearm. Based on that, just switch this one to the other forearm. :-) Example below with the ridge on the top of Han’s right forearm. :-) Dan Yup. thanks sharing that. I had my hands turned the way I did to show the space remaining. Last night, i trimmed off a bit more and use a boiling water pour to round out the oblongness of the forearm cavities. I guess the question is now, do most fit their naked hand through the forearms and then put the gloves on? Don't think there's enough room now for the hand to go through the forearms with a hand plate attached Quote
CableGuy[TK] Posted June 21, 2018 Report Posted June 21, 2018 Yup. thanks sharing that. I had my hands turned the way I did to show the space remaining. Last night, i trimmed off a bit more and use a boiling water pour to round out the oblongness of the forearm cavities. I guess the question is now, do most fit their naked hand through the forearms and then put the gloves on? Don't think there's enough room now for the hand to go through the forearms with a hand plate attached Yep - gloves on last. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
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