Alexx_G Posted September 25, 2016 Report Share Posted September 25, 2016 (edited) Hey guys, almost one year ago i've puchased my armor from RS and was really happy to get one. Unfortunately i couldn't work on it until now. So you can imagine how excited i am right now to get all the thing together and transforming myself into a beast machine who could shoot everything down. OVERVIEW Helmet: Assembly done. Have to repainting the tube stripes. Neck Seal: Shoulder Bells: Trimmed to the correct measurements (hope so). Elastic has to be attached. Biceps: Assembled. Outer cover strips has to be glued on. Forearms: Totally destroyed them.. have to rebuy them. FeelsBadMan Chest Armor: Back Armor: Abdomen Armor: Kidney Armor: Buttplate: Shins: Trimmed for fitting. Front attached together. Back need work. Thighs: Belt: Done. Drop boxes attached to the canvas with loop elastic. Thermal Detonator: Done. Holster: Blaster: Boots: Purchased from TKBoots. Modifications needed? (Pictures are coming) Helmet: You see the gap above the ear? I will close that later. Should i trim the eye brow straight or leave it with this angle? Little gap but i think that this will be fine. You also might see the painting of the tube stripes.. i don't really like it much so i will do a repainting on those. And i will do repaintings here too. I think the painting is not bad, but it could be improved.. so rework for sure. Thermal Detonator The last to pictures showing you, that there are different sizes of space between the end caps and the center piece. One is about 20mm and the other one is 15,5 mm. Rework needed? Of course i will clean up that little sucker. Edited October 3, 2016 by Alexx_G 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrookKnight[TK] Posted September 25, 2016 Report Share Posted September 25, 2016 Looking good. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted September 25, 2016 Report Share Posted September 25, 2016 Looking good, Alexander! A couple of things that may help you out... If you are going to re-paint the tube stripes using a template, I suggest that before painting, make sure the edges are pressed down firmly and hit it with a thin coat of gloss white or clear first, and let that dry for 10 minutes or so before using the blue. This will seal the edges and prevent any bleeding of the blue. As for the TD, it looks great! The only things I would recommend are to sand down the edges/ends of the clips until they are really smooth to the feel. This will prevent them scratching your armor when attaching it. (Helpful hint: Take a short length of 1 inch wide white Velcro (the fuzzy side) and attach it to the back of the clips that slide behind your belt. This will also prevent more scratches.) Hopefully you are aiming for EIB and then Centurion, in which case you will need to paint the screws on your TD black. Great job so far, and I look forward to the rest of your RS build! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexx_G Posted September 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2016 (edited) Thanks for your thoughts. I had a template for the tube stripes but as you can see i didn't sealed it with gloss white so the paint bled out. How do i remove the paint? With paint thinner? I will deffo smooth out the rough edges on the TD clips! Black screw heads - copy that. Great idea with the velcro. Thanks a lot! Reworked the TD edges I know about the scratches on the surfaces but you won't see them. Screws still has to be painted black. Shins I'm wondering.. did i get two left side shins? They're looking the same to me, even the curves on both halves. Beside this weirdo, i saw many shins without any return edges at the bottom. Is this accurate or were they trimmed off becaus it's more comfortable to wear them? Edited September 25, 2016 by Alexx_G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cricket[TK] Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 The RS TK kits have two left shins. I've confirmed this with RS. You'll want to remove the returns from the bottom. <br><br> Good luck with your build! I'll be following! ☺ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alay[TK] Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 Looking good! Your eyes could be trimmed out further as there's still a bit of material in there.<br><br> RS is a great kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexx_G Posted September 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 The RS TK kits have two left shins. I've confirmed this with RS. You'll want to remove the returns from the bottom. Good luck with your build! I'll be following! ☺ Thanks for the info Christine. So my eyes aren't that bad. Looking good! Your eyes could be trimmed out further as there's still a bit of material in there. RS is a great kit Allright, thanks for your advice Sarah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themaninthesuitcase[Admin] Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 The RS TK kits have two left shins. I've confirmed this with RS. You'll want to remove the returns from the bottom. <br><br> Good luck with your build! I'll be following! ☺ I belive this is because the original suit they own has, wait for it, 2 left shins! Looking good! Your eyes could be trimmed out further as there's still a bit of material in there.<br><br> RS is a great kit I don't think so, they look fine. Look at this reference image, you can see theres a small lip most the way round. I would also say your ear gaps are completely fine as is. For a tutorial on painting the traps I did one for my bucket here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35424-themaninthesuitcase-anovos-ahn-stunt-build/?p=479783 if you scroll up a few posts you'll see how I did the tears too. When doing the tube templates you really do need to burnish them down and seal them. I preferred to use clear rather than white as white is notoriously hard to colour match and stands out when it doesn't. Let the clear dry as per the tin, for my Humbrol this was 6 hours. I think if you scroll up a few more posts you'll find how I did my tube stripes. What you use to remove the old paint will depend on what you used. Be careful to test what ever product first on an offcut to ensure that it doesn't damage the plastic or make it brittle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexx_G Posted September 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2016 (edited) Great idea with the clear coat and you are totally right with matching the white color. I've painted my screw heads white and this white seems to be a little bit too bright. So i will give that clear coat a try. Thanks mate. Edited September 27, 2016 by Alexx_G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusionz_09[TK] Posted September 27, 2016 Report Share Posted September 27, 2016 Looking good! Your eyes could be trimmed out further as there's still a bit of material in there.<br><br> RS is a great kit I agree. It looks that you can still remove some out of there. Yes, the buckets need a bit of an edge, but you can see the bumpy parts are not part of that edge. Good Luck trooper, you are on the right track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexx_G Posted September 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 (edited) I thought it would be a good idea to paint the buttons. I think the diameter is okay but what's about the height? With height i mean the overlapping if the edge. Should i go further down or leave it as it is? Button coloring After helmet and TD i wanted to start with my hole arm section like shoulder bells, biceps and forearms. I chose the biceps first and now i'm struggeling with the right bicep. It's a bit warpy but that is not a big deal but the high sections drives me crazy. Should i cut off the extension? Edited September 28, 2016 by Alexx_G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cricket[TK] Posted September 28, 2016 Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 (edited) Hey Alexander, About those buttons, I found this over at the ANH TK Stunt CRL: "buttons are approximately 7/16" (11mm) in diameter". So if you're in that ballpark, you should be good I think.Many people choose to remove all of the returns off of the biceps. For my biceps, I trimmed off the tops of the biceps and removed the returns. You can't really see the tops of the biceps when they're on anyhow because they're hidden under the shoulder bells. Here's mine:Hope that helps! Edited September 28, 2016 by Cricket 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexx_G Posted September 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 As always i have to thank you Christine and your picture of your bicep helping me a lot!. I totally missed these measurements at the CRL.. (shame on me) so i will check my diameters to be on the safe side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
visiontrooper Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 Is it ok to make the biceps shorter in length? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Novak Dimon[TK] Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 (edited) If they look like the one Christine postet they are absolutely ok.<br> Most important is that they fit you. Edited September 29, 2016 by Novak Dimon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
visiontrooper Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 If they look like the one Christine postet they are absolutely ok.<br> Most important is that they fit you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
visiontrooper Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 Can you point me to the right direction to view Christine's posts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Novak Dimon[TK] Posted September 30, 2016 Report Share Posted September 30, 2016 (edited) Hey Alexander, Many people choose to remove all of the returns off of the biceps. For my biceps, I trimmed off the tops of the biceps and removed the returns. You can't really see the tops of the biceps when they're on anyhow because they're hidden under the shoulder bells. Here's mine: Hope that helps! [/size] That's the post. I didn't use her nickname. Cheers Christian Edited September 30, 2016 by Novak Dimon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexx_G Posted October 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2016 Sorry for not posting any progress but trust me, i am working on it! Was a busy week so pictures will come later today or the next days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexx_G Posted October 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2016 As promised a tiny update of pictures i've made. Still much more to come tomorrow. Helmet I have repainted the mic tips. Inside and the edge are white now. Right side screws are white now. Same on the left side. Left side screw which was hidden. And the right one. Left side tear slighty repainted. Hard to see. Left side tear is now cleaner. Rear left side painting is now cleaner. Same thing on the right side. THERMAL DETONATOR Yup, black screw heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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