Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

ok nearing the finish line stuck my ab buttons on last night , good old magnets 

 

ab%20buttons%201_zpsvu57euxl.jpg

Posted

moving on to shoulder bridges just roughing out a bit gave me enough flex to pull them flat for a traditional score and snap approach

 

shoulder%20straps1_zpspndq2dsl.jpg

 

then i borrowed a bit of advice from crickets build and added a few spacers in the front depression of the bridge to give me a better glue surface later 

 

shoulder%20straps%202_zpss5zypr0v.jpg

Posted

Arrrgh !!!!!!!!  so near the end think i got over excited and trimmed to much off my sniper knee plates, help!!! is this possible to save would it go through clearance ??????

 

sniper%20plate%202_zpsiugekb4u.jpg

 

:angry:

Posted

here's a few posts that will catch up on the last week or so. Sniper knee was bothering me to much so asked the question and was able to source a new one, whilst i was waiting carried on with everything else !!!

 

shoulder straps now positioned and glued in place, (thanks to patience of my boy stand in trooper for a while  :th_AnimatedBravoSmiley: )

 

shoulder%20straps%203_zpsfzzqe9d8.jpg

Posted

hook system for the shins, this was fun !!! after much research of other builds went for placement of 25 mm from top and bottom and split the difference for the third hole sat the elastic straps back about 5 mm from the edge

 

shin%20hooks_zpspnl9kawa.jpg

 

New Sniper knee plate arrived

 

this time left proud of what i layed out to be trim line and will flush through once set

 

sniper%20plate%203_zpswrgrjheq.jpg

 

AT last finished those shins

 

finished%20shins_zpssvqzhxz9.jpg

Posted

i am back to finishing my TD and  just remembered to paint my TD's dome head screw heads black   :blink:

 

finished%20td_zpscpe08lis.jpg

 

 

bit of drying time and then to sort out a first set of clearance photos  :D  :smiley-sw013:

Posted

A small hint on the TD, (which turned out GREAT)..  You might want to think of attaching some white Velcro strips (the fuzzy side) to the backs of the clips.  This will help keep them from scratching up your butt-plate/kidney armor.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

quite a eventful 24 hrs  :jc_doublethumbup: finished my Armour and late night session with approval photos,

 

here's a sample

 

fisd%2012_zpstcfbnk2k.jpg

Edited by Chopper857
  • Like 2
Posted

Well done Martyn, looks great. All the hard works paying off!

 

Just had a nose over on the UKG at the full clearance photos (and your E-11) and looks like you'll be good for EIB, a small hitch in on the ab-kidney elastics and you'll probably be on for Centurion. Ideally get this done before you're branded!

 

A small hint on the TD, (which turned out GREAT)..  You might want to think of attaching some white Velcro strips (the fuzzy side) to the backs of the clips.  This will help keep them from scratching up your butt-plate/kidney armor.

 

Best done BEFORE you scratch the crap out of your kidney  :glare:

 

Brad nice job! Where'd you find all the Billhag TK sheets at? I've looked all over here and cant seem to find them.

 

I have a large collection of them, I'll post a thread somewhere handy.  As I find more I'll edit the post.

  • Like 1
Posted

Welcome TK-42413!

 

thanks Chris whats the  need do on the ab kidney elastics ??

Gaps a bit on the wide side for centurion, shorten them a little and it will close that gap and make Tony and/or Andrew happy  :D   CRL allows for a small gap (12mm 1/2") at EIB, but "Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor." for centurion.  From what I saw your at about that 1/2" gap.  I'm no DO but other than that there's nothing obvious for levels 2/3.  Get that EIB application in!

 

Induction in London? MCM Expo should be up for sign up soon!

  • Like 1
Posted

Ok cheers for the heads up on that Chris better breath in , forgot branding might affect EIB and Centurion levels as well will get right  on with those , yeah London hopefully for induction if there's room that's been my target for a while now  :duim:

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

doing some upgrades prior to EIB submission, replaced the s-trim for a more Cuvier one and trying to replace the hovi mic tips anyone  got any helpful hints on fitting the mesh :blink:

 

Thanks 

 

hel%20up%201_zpsghee81e6.jpg

 

hel%20up%202_zpspfizg4et.jpg  

Edited by Chopper857
Posted

I found it easier to cut accurately by putting a layer of masking tape on each side and marking the cut line on that.  I then used decent scissors to cut it.  The tape not only gives you something to draw on but hold the mesh in line.

  • Like 1
Posted

Find a washer or coin that fits perfectly inside the mic tip and use that cut around. Cutting the mesh slightly bigger than the hole in the mic tip allows the mesh to be forced in and grips without using glue. It can be tricky so take it steady. Use a pin or sewing needle to pick the mesh out if you push it in too far ;)

  • Like 2
Posted

After taking both bits of advice on board here with go

1. taped mesh, laid out trimmed round with scissors

2 used a bit of pipe as a dolly and gently formed edges around it

3. gently push fit into top of mic tip  :)

 

nmic%20tips_zpsyapg3mjn.jpg

 

here's a a side by side of Avonos Vs movie accurate and the finished article 

 

 

mic%20tips%201_zpsxrlfamiv.jpg

 

EIB photos this weekend  :jc_doublethumbup:  then on to helmet cooling system and voice electronics  :smiley-sw013:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

will be using the hook and elastic method  to pull them together my right one is sort of ok but on the left looks like i went wonky trimming for size  and have a largish gap in the middle between the two sides if i take off much more top and bottom its going to get snug, . but RS have said they will send me a new set to have another crack at it .(cannot fault the team at RS).

Also i just cannot seem to get the tops to line up at the rear as well !!! or am i over thinking it !!!

 

just one more thing with the RS shins being identical left and right. The right shin will have a lower edge on the out side of the boot,  would you adjust  the base of the shins even or would you just  re trim  the left shin so you also  have a longer side on the outside of your boot ??

 

thanks 

What did you end up doing in regards to the lower edge being on the outside of the right and the inside of the left?

Posted

with everybody confirming that the left and right are identical, I left the lower edges as is in the end.

 

I did a test trim on the shin I messed up just to see what it would look like ,but realised in doing this one shin would be considerably lower than the other and if I realigned the other one I would be creating a much larger gap between the shin and thigh than needed, which in turn could lead to the old sniper knee plate issues of getting caught up with your thigh piece.

 

good luck with your build, will look forward to your progress :)

  • Like 1
Posted

Ok looking for helpful hints and solutions with regards to mounting voice changer within armour, currently I have a Tramp unit in terms of size it is a heavily modified Aker, what's people's prefered method of attachment many thanks

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Great job there.  well done.

one the paint for the teeth on the helmet  what Humbrol grey did you use?

Edited by rwbowri

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...