CrookKnight[TK] Posted September 10, 2016 Report Posted September 10, 2016 (edited) APPROVED Name: Shawn Cantey 501st ID: TK 10204 FISD Forum Name: CrookKnight Garrison: Carolina Garrison Armor Maker: AP Helmet Maker: AP Blaster Type: Elite E-11 Hyperfirm Height: 5'9" Weight: 175 lbs Boots Maker: TK Boots Canvas Belt: 501st Member Hand Plates Type: Rubber / Vinyl Electronics: Fans / I-Comm / Microphone / Hovi Tips / Speakers by Ukswrath Neck Seal Type: Darman's with zipper in the back Holster Maker: Darman 8oz leather holster Photos are below: Front - Arms at Side Front picture retaken with lettering removed from left shoulder bell and chest plate and ab plate properly positioned: Back - Arms at Sides Rear retaken with gap closed between kidney and back plate: Left - Arms Raised Right - Arms Raised Right Side Detail - Arms Raised Left Side Detail - Arms Raised Abdomen Details Action Shot Cod and Butt Plate Attachment Interior Strapping Black elastic at shoulder bell: Helmet Front Helmet Side Helmet Back Hovi Tip Detail Lens Color Helmet Interior Electronics Blaster Left Blaster Right Blaster Back Neck Seal Thermal Detonator Holster Attachment Thank you Edited October 4, 2016 by CrookKnight Quote
Novak Dimon[TK] Posted September 10, 2016 Report Posted September 10, 2016 (edited) Hi Shawn, Your armor is looking cool but I spotted some things you should look after though. The first thing I saw was the decal with your TK Number at the left shoulder. It's looking cool but it shouldn't be there. The next point is the gap between Ab and Chest. The Chest should overlap the Ab. The Gap between Kidney and Back armor is a bit to big. It seems the whole lower armor is sitting too low. Maybe an issue of the pic but perhaps you can try to shorten the strapping at the back and install longer elastic at the front to allow the Chest to slide over the Ab. The connection between Abdomen and Kidney armor is made in a way I never seen before. I'm not sure if it is EIB compatible. The Helmet is looking very good but I'm unsure about the gap between the top of your helmet and the rear piece. I heard of Helmets made of three parts but are they good for Level 2 and above? I think I have to read some AP-builds to check that out. I wish you all the best and good luck with your approval! Christian Edited September 12, 2016 by Novak Dimon 1 Quote
CrookKnight[TK] Posted September 10, 2016 Author Report Posted September 10, 2016 Thank you for your comments. I am aware of the issue with the overlapping of the kidney and chest plate and back plates. When I took the pictures I was not wearing my interior suspenders that usually boost up the lower portion of the armor. When I do wear them, the lower portion of the armor sits higher therefore allowing for more overlap. I bought this armor from a former 501st member that had purchased from AP. It came with the side pieces connecting the front abs to the back plate. I tried to remove it, but it is glued very well. I might be able to remove it with more work. Thank you for your comments. Quote
CrookKnight[TK] Posted September 10, 2016 Author Report Posted September 10, 2016 In regards to the 3 piece helmet, about half of my Garrison has this. Please let me know if this needs to be changed. The only thing I could do would be to use bondo and paint. I would rather not do this. Quote
Novak Dimon[TK] Posted September 12, 2016 Report Posted September 12, 2016 I checked several EIB request threads but found no 3 piece helmets yet. But the CLR don't say anything against it so it should be no issue. 1 Quote
CrookKnight[TK] Posted September 12, 2016 Author Report Posted September 12, 2016 Christian, Per your recommendations, I removed the TK sticker off of my left shoulder bell and re-took the front and back picture with my internal belt on to allow for the ab plate and back plate to sit normally. You will notice the front gap is gone and the back gap is within tolerance. Thank you for the pointers. Below are the pictures: 2 Quote
Novak Dimon[TK] Posted September 12, 2016 Report Posted September 12, 2016 (edited) Hi Shawn, I'm always happy to help. And the fitting of your armor is so much better now! One more thing: The snaps of your Posterior Armor are looking like one male and one female. The CLR say two male snaps have to be there. If they are both male it might help your application if you post a picture showing the inside of the Posterior Armor. All the best! Christian Edited September 12, 2016 by Novak Dimon 1 Quote
CrookKnight[TK] Posted September 12, 2016 Author Report Posted September 12, 2016 Thanks. They are both male. One is just a different style. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk 1 Quote
CrookKnight[TK] Posted September 12, 2016 Author Report Posted September 12, 2016 How long until you think it will be officially reviewed? Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk Quote
CrookKnight[TK] Posted September 14, 2016 Author Report Posted September 14, 2016 Christian, I took a picture of the double male snaps on the posterior armor. They are both male. It is a bit messy, since it used to have velcro in this area. Before I installed the snaps, I tried to get all of the velcro off, however, I was not successful. At least it is on the inside of the armor and not the outside. Below is the picture: Quote
sylverbard[TK] Posted September 14, 2016 Report Posted September 14, 2016 (edited) They are both male but one has the wrong backing. The front has to be a rivet, you seem to have three snaps. I'd compare to other ei submissions and make them match. And try goo b gone or goof off to soften up the Velcro glue, or ice if it's e6000 to make the glue more brittle so it pops off. Edited September 14, 2016 by sylverbard 1 Quote
CrookKnight[TK] Posted September 14, 2016 Author Report Posted September 14, 2016 Thanks. I will make those changes. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk 1 Quote
sylverbard[TK] Posted September 14, 2016 Report Posted September 14, 2016 And...I just noticed where the left side rivets are...I'd wait for clarification from the DOs but should they meet at a seam or be spaced that far apart across a shim? 1 Quote
Novak Dimon[TK] Posted September 14, 2016 Report Posted September 14, 2016 And...I just noticed where the left side rivets are...I'd wait for clarification from the DOs but should they meet at a seam or be spaced that far apart across a shim?Well the CLR for level 2 don't mention the rivets at all. "For level two certification (if applicable): Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect are of a similar material and color as the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims fit flush and seams are allowed." But I agree with you: the DO's have the last word here! 1 Quote
CrookKnight[TK] Posted September 14, 2016 Author Report Posted September 14, 2016 I am going to still cleanup the velcro at the posterior cod piece and replace the front snap with a rivet. This should not be too hard. All of this velcro is from the previous owner of the armor. Apparently, the previous owner needed the shims on the side for the armor. I looked at removing, but since the kidney plates were cut as they were, if I removed them, I would not meet the 1/2" gap. It would be much larger. Quote
Alay[TK] Posted September 14, 2016 Report Posted September 14, 2016 Hi Shawn, just a question as it's hard to see from the pictures; Do the shoulders have a black elastic strapping around the inside of the bicep? Quote
CrookKnight[TK] Posted September 14, 2016 Author Report Posted September 14, 2016 Hi Shawn, just a question as it's hard to see from the pictures; Do the shoulders have a black elastic strapping around the inside of the bicep? No. Quote
CrookKnight[TK] Posted September 15, 2016 Author Report Posted September 15, 2016 I have installed the rivet on the front cod and installed the proper male snap on the rear. They now are compliant with the CRL. Thanks. Photo is below: Quote
Novak Dimon[TK] Posted September 15, 2016 Report Posted September 15, 2016 (edited) Hi Shawn,<br><br> Good work. That's looking much better! I like that you also filled the hole with ABS paste! <br><br> A split rivet instead the pop rivet would look nicer but I guess it will do the job. Edited September 15, 2016 by Novak Dimon 1 Quote
CrookKnight[TK] Posted September 15, 2016 Author Report Posted September 15, 2016 I still have not learned how to do a split rivet. I have them. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk Quote
CrookKnight[TK] Posted September 15, 2016 Author Report Posted September 15, 2016 If anyone has instructions on how to install the split rivet please let me know. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk Quote
TD42115[501st] Posted September 15, 2016 Report Posted September 15, 2016 If anyone has instructions on how to install the split rivet please let me know. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk Shawn, Take a look at this build thread, Danny explains the process for kidney, ab plates.. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30595-ap-armour-with-anh-centurion-as-goal-build-thread/page-4 Chris Quote
Alay[TK] Posted September 15, 2016 Report Posted September 15, 2016 If anyone has instructions on how to install the split rivet please let me know. Drill 1/8" holes for the rivets. The split rivets go through. Remember to add the washer. I then take a screwdriver head and pry the eye open a bit. Needlenose pliers to pull them out about 80 degrees. Then a whack or two of the hammer to set them good. 1 Quote
CrookKnight[TK] Posted September 15, 2016 Author Report Posted September 15, 2016 Chris and Sarah, Thank you for all of the advice and instructions. I will give it a try tonight and see what happens. Thanks again. Quote
sylverbard[TK] Posted September 16, 2016 Report Posted September 16, 2016 Well the CLR for level 2 don't mention the rivets at all. "For level two certification (if applicable): Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect are of a similar material and color as the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims fit flush and seams are allowed." But I agree with you: the DO's have the last word here! No rivets are level 3 I thought they were basic approval. Mines always had them. Shoulder bells do need the black elastic that goes around the biceps though. That is base approval. Lots of gmls miss it. Quote
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