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Posted (edited)

APPROVED

 

Name: Shawn Cantey

501st ID: TK 10204

FISD Forum Name: CrookKnight

Garrison: Carolina Garrison

 

Armor Maker: AP

Helmet Maker: AP

Blaster Type: Elite E-11 Hyperfirm

Height: 5'9"

Weight: 175 lbs

Boots Maker: TK Boots

Canvas Belt: 501st Member

Hand Plates Type: Rubber / Vinyl

Electronics: Fans / I-Comm / Microphone / Hovi Tips / Speakers by Ukswrath

Neck Seal Type: Darman's with zipper in the back

Holster Maker: Darman 8oz leather holster

 

Photos are below:

 

Front - Arms at Side

 

20160909_1629030_zpsip3p2uwk.jpg

 

Front picture retaken with lettering removed from left shoulder bell and chest plate and ab plate properly positioned:

 

Front_zps3izs8pry.jpg

 

Back - Arms at Sides

 

20160909_162924_zpszoiqkpd0.jpg

 

Rear retaken with gap closed between kidney and back plate:

 

20160625_1505310_zpslkd5dhi2.jpg

 

Left - Arms Raised

 

20160909_1629490_zpsq7ex8kxn.jpg

 

Right - Arms Raised

 

20160909_1629380_zpsu4pzcko0.jpg

 

Right Side Detail - Arms Raised

 

20160909_162941_zpsko39rus1.jpg

 

Left Side Detail - Arms Raised

 

20160909_1629531_zpsyobnfuca.jpg

 

Abdomen Details

 

20160821_122315_zpsqgf8clbq.jpg

 

Action Shot

 

20160909_1628350_zpshfovzbi1.jpg

 

Cod and Butt Plate Attachment

 

20160915_202535_zpsneg8lfxt.jpg

 

Interior Strapping

 

20160909_212733_zpswzaoeutx.jpg

 

20160909_212715_zpsq7ii2q2g.jpg

 

Black elastic at shoulder bell:

 

20160916_055659_zpsl1cgsn6z.jpg

 

Helmet Front

 

20160821_121901_zps5ueuuaph.jpg

 

Helmet Side

 

20160821_121952_zpsjm2cjcz6.jpg

 

20160821_121924_zpskuohhpms.jpg

 

Helmet Back

 

20160821_121943_zpsxeitokax.jpg

 

Hovi Tip Detail

 

20160821_122001_zpsoqqidl5c.jpg

 

Lens Color

 

20160821_122020_zpsckqvcvx9.jpg

 

Helmet Interior Electronics

 

20160821_122009_zpsxzrekfbb.jpg

 

Blaster Left

 

20160909_112605_zpsuzufxges.jpg

 

Blaster Right

 

20160909_112615_zpsm2uk5t5o.jpg

 

Blaster Back

 

20160909_112620_zps4s9qo2lm.jpg

 

Neck Seal

 

20160821_122336_zpslwndjsn2.jpg

 

Thermal Detonator

 

20160821_122239_zpsktz0q1or.jpg

 

20160821_122226_zpscys3q7yv.jpg

 

Holster Attachment

 

20160821_122158_zpstttdfjik.jpg

 

Thank you

Edited by CrookKnight
Posted (edited)

Hi Shawn,

Your armor is looking cool but I spotted some things you should look after though.

The first thing I saw was the decal with your TK Number at the left shoulder. It's looking cool but it shouldn't be there.

The next point is the gap between Ab and Chest. The Chest should overlap the Ab. The Gap between Kidney and Back armor is a bit to big. It seems the whole lower armor is sitting too low. Maybe an issue of the pic but perhaps you can try to shorten the strapping at the back and install longer elastic at the front to allow the Chest to slide over the Ab.

The connection between Abdomen and Kidney armor is made in a way I never seen before. I'm not sure if it is EIB compatible.

The Helmet is looking very good but I'm unsure about the gap between the top of your helmet and the rear piece. I heard of Helmets made of three parts but are they good for Level 2 and above? I think I have to read some AP-builds to check that out. ;)

I wish you all the best and good luck with your approval! :)

Christian

Edited by Novak Dimon
  • Like 1
Posted

Thank you for your comments.  I am aware of the issue with the overlapping of the kidney and chest plate and back plates.  When I took the pictures I was not wearing my interior suspenders that usually boost up the lower portion of the armor.  When I do wear them, the lower portion of the armor sits higher therefore allowing for more overlap.

 

I bought this armor from a former 501st member that had purchased from AP.  It came with the side pieces connecting the front abs to the back plate.  I tried to remove it, but it is glued very well.  I might be able to remove it with more work.

 

Thank you for your comments.

Posted

In regards to the 3 piece helmet, about half of my Garrison has this.  Please let me know if this needs to be changed.  The only thing I could do would be to use bondo and paint.  I would rather not do this.

Posted

I checked several EIB request threads but found no 3 piece helmets yet.

But the CLR don't say anything against it so it should be no issue. :)

  • Like 1
Posted

Christian,

 

Per your recommendations, I removed the TK sticker off of my left shoulder bell and re-took the front and back picture with my internal belt on to allow for the ab plate and back plate to sit normally.  You will notice the front gap is gone and the back gap is within tolerance.

 

Thank you for the pointers.

 

Below are the pictures:

 

Front_zps3izs8pry.jpg

 

20160625_1505310_zpslkd5dhi2.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Hi Shawn,

I'm always happy to help. :) And the fitting of your armor is so much better now! :)

One more thing: The snaps of your Posterior Armor are looking like one male and one female. The CLR say two male snaps have to be there.

If they are both male it might help your application if you post a picture showing the inside of the Posterior Armor.

All the best!

Christian

Edited by Novak Dimon
  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks. They are both male. One is just a different style.

 

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Christian,

 

I took a picture of the double male snaps on the posterior armor.  They are both male.  It is a bit messy, since it used to have velcro in this area.  Before I installed the snaps, I tried to get all of the velcro off, however, I was not successful.  At least it is on the inside of the armor and not the outside.  Below is the picture:

 

20160913_202107_zpss4szlbis.jpg

Posted (edited)

They are both male but one has the wrong backing. The front has to be a rivet, you seem to have three snaps. I'd compare to other ei submissions and make them match.

And try goo b gone or goof off to soften up the Velcro glue, or ice if it's e6000 to make the glue more brittle so it pops off.

Edited by sylverbard
  • Like 1
Posted

And...I just noticed where the left side rivets are...I'd wait for clarification from the DOs but should they meet at a seam or be spaced that far apart across a shim?

  • Like 1
Posted

And...I just noticed where the left side rivets are...I'd wait for clarification from the DOs but should they meet at a seam or be spaced that far apart across a shim?

Well the CLR for level 2 don't mention the rivets at all.

"For level two certification (if applicable):

Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide.

Any shims used to achieve this effect are of a similar material and color as the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims fit flush and seams are allowed."

 

But I agree with you: the DO's have the last word here!

  • Like 1
Posted

I am going to still cleanup the velcro at the posterior cod piece and replace the front snap with a rivet.  This should not be too hard.  All of this velcro is from the previous owner of the armor.  Apparently, the previous owner needed the shims on the side for the armor.  I looked at removing, but since the kidney plates were cut as they were, if I removed them, I would not meet the 1/2" gap.  It would be much larger.  

Posted

Hi Shawn, just a question as it's hard to see from the pictures;  Do the shoulders have a black elastic strapping around the inside of the bicep?

Posted

Hi Shawn, just a question as it's hard to see from the pictures;  Do the shoulders have a black elastic strapping around the inside of the bicep?

No.

Posted

I have installed the rivet on the front cod and installed the proper male snap on the rear.  They now are compliant with the CRL.  Thanks.

 

Photo is below:

20160914_203443_zpsv6qcccld.jpg

Posted (edited)

Hi Shawn,<br><br>

Good work. That's looking much better! I like that you also filled the hole with ABS paste! :)<br><br>

A split rivet instead the pop rivet would look nicer but I guess it will do the job. ;)

Edited by Novak Dimon
  • Like 1
Posted

I still have not learned how to do a split rivet. I have them.

 

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

Posted

If anyone has instructions on how to install the split rivet please let me know.

 

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

Posted

If anyone has instructions on how to install the split rivet please let me know.

 

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

Shawn, 

 

Take a look at this build thread, Danny explains the process for kidney, ab plates..

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30595-ap-armour-with-anh-centurion-as-goal-build-thread/page-4

 

Chris 

Posted

If anyone has instructions on how to install the split rivet please let me know.

 

Drill 1/8" holes for the rivets.

 

The split rivets go through.  Remember to add the washer.  I then take a screwdriver head and pry the eye open a bit.

 

Needlenose pliers to pull them out about 80 degrees.  Then a whack or two of the hammer to set them good.

  • Like 1
Posted

Chris and Sarah,

 

Thank you for all of the advice and instructions.  I will give it a try tonight and see what happens.  Thanks again.

Posted

Well the CLR for level 2 don't mention the rivets at all.

"For level two certification (if applicable):

Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide.

Any shims used to achieve this effect are of a similar material and color as the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims fit flush and seams are allowed."

 

But I agree with you: the DO's have the last word here!

No rivets are level 3 I thought they were basic approval. Mines always had them.

 

Shoulder bells do need the black elastic that goes around the biceps though. That is base approval. Lots of gmls miss it.

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