jmschak Posted September 13, 2016 Report Posted September 13, 2016 This has been a pretty awesome thread to follow. The fact that you're brand new to this and so far seem to have nailed it gives me a lot more confidence for when I start mine. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk 2 Quote
Deadeye[TK] Posted September 13, 2016 Author Report Posted September 13, 2016 You got this, Jaime. For me, it came down to a couple of mental milestones that gave me the confidence. First, I researched the heck out of it. I'm sure you've done a fair bit of that. Second, I found out about ABS paste. Even though I haven't needed it so far (knock on wood) I at least knew that mistakes had the potential to be fixable--even with a material that I hadn't worked with before and assumed was unfixable. Third, I came to realization that if I screw something up too much I could probably replace a single part for a reasonable cost and start over. I've read of others that even got parts replaced for free. The armor makers all sound like really good folks that just want to help people realize their vision and aren't likely to leave someone high and dry with crummy parts. Honestly though, if you're patient and careful and do your research first it's all very achievable stuff. 2 Quote
Zarlon[TK] Posted September 14, 2016 Report Posted September 14, 2016 (edited) It looks like your making good progress Kurt! I have one suggestion for the side tabs you use to keep the abs in tight. If you haven't already done so, make sure you paint the front of the tabs black.If there is any separation, you'll be able to see the white tab where as the black will just blend in with your under suit. Keep it up. You'll be trooping with us in the GLG in no time at all. Feel free to PM here or on the GLG forums if you have any questions or need anything. Edited September 14, 2016 by Zarlon 1 Quote
Deadeye[TK] Posted September 19, 2016 Author Report Posted September 19, 2016 OK, I admit I've gotten a bit lax in my updates to the build thread. I started back at work this week and kind of got to a point where I would focus on getting stuff done and not have time to get to the computer. So in my last post I was starting on paint. I attempted to hand paint the tube stripes but really didn't like the results. I should have used a thinner brush and made multiple passes but tried to use a wider brush and one pass. When I had areas that looked weird and attempted to touch them up the stripe would get too wide. With lots of elbow grease and mineral spirits I was able to remove them and decided to use decals rather than make another attempt. Everything else was hand painted. The results are...acceptable to me but other may see more room for improvement. That then allowed me to spray an entire can of PlastiDip on the inside of the helmet once I masked everything off. Once the inside was coated I could mount the lenses and frown screen. I went back and forth with lots of different ideas for how to mount the lenses but nothing seemed to work as well as I'd hoped. I just punted and decided to glue in some pieces for now. I think I'll probably buy some thicker material and come up with a more long-term solution that allows for easy replacement but this works for now. The frown screen was pretty easy. I just sandwiched a piece between two pieces of rubber that I had laying around. That was then glued into place. Once all of that internal stuff was complete I was able to put the helmet together. The hard hat suspension was positioned just as I'd hoped. I haven't resized the helmet opening yet. It works for now and I wasn't sure how much I wanted to take off. I also haven't yet cut to length or installed the 'S' trim. The AP-provided trim was precut to length and will work for now until I have a final opening size. I still needed to glue on my hand plates so I used Sarah's (Alay's) suggested adhesive for that. I tried E6000 but it didn't work at all. Her idea worked well but I got a little overzealous with the glue and it turned out really messy. I think I may be making another pair of those. The only thing left to do was my one "semi-permanent" connection that I didn't want to have to mess with until I knew everything else was good. Rivets installed for the left side straps and then the elastic straps added over top. And then I only needed to paint the visible snap, screw and rivet heads. 1 Quote
Deadeye[TK] Posted September 19, 2016 Author Report Posted September 19, 2016 And with that, the build was all done! Pictures taken to get started on the submission process. I remembered after these that I needed to paint the rivet on the knee ammo belt. Oops. Other than that, I think it turned out pretty well. I still need to install the small elastic ties to hold down the shoulder covers. I don't believe those are a basic requirement but it'll fix the sort of crooked back in these pics. Can't wait to see what my GML thinks. Hope to be trooping with you soon, Kyle. With that, I will say the suit was hotter than I thought, less comfortable than I expected and visibility is ridiculous. Can't wait to troop! 2 Quote
Alay[TK] Posted September 19, 2016 Report Posted September 19, 2016 Awesome work! Only thing I see that might need some improvement is how far the shoulder bells are from the chest. See if you can tighten up the top strap there to bring them in--you want them to just about touch. 2 Quote
Deadeye[TK] Posted September 19, 2016 Author Report Posted September 19, 2016 I noticed that too. I measured them out like ukswrath recommends in his Anovos build thread but they don't appear to fit as tightly as I'd expected. I'm wondering if it's because I connected them with a snap in the shoulder bell rather than gluing the straps in. That extra inch of elastic to the snap probably adds some extra stretch as opposed to having them glued all the way up to the edge. I may need to move the sew-in snap a bit to account for the extra stretch. Thanks for the feedback. I'm also wondering if the elastic loops for the shoulder covers may help a bit. I see that on one side the white shoulder elastic is peeking out and that extra loop may hold all that stuff in place a little more. So I painted the knee rivets, I need to add the shoulder elastic loops and I plan to put some Velcro on the boots/shins to keep the sniper knee from wandering a bit. I think that will help clean some things up. I'm also strongly considering replacing the "screen accurate" popper snaps on the ab plate with some line 24s. The belt kept popping loose as I was walking around the house and if it comes off that easily I suspect it'll be a pain on a longer troop. Any thoughts on the robustness of poppers vs. line 24s for this spot? Quote
Deadeye[TK] Posted September 23, 2016 Author Report Posted September 23, 2016 Just got word from my GML that my build was approved for Legion admission. Sweet. Just awaiting the formalities of full membership and my TK number, now. A few tweaks and I can submit for EIB and then Centurion. 6 Quote
Alay[TK] Posted September 23, 2016 Report Posted September 23, 2016 Woooo! Welcome to the 501st! 1 Quote
jmschak Posted September 24, 2016 Report Posted September 24, 2016 Awesome! Congrats! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk 1 Quote
zv288bot[TK] Posted September 24, 2016 Report Posted September 24, 2016 I noticed that too. I measured them out like ukswrath recommends in his Anovos build thread but they don't appear to fit as tightly as I'd expected. I'm wondering if it's because I connected them with a snap in the shoulder bell rather than gluing the straps in. That extra inch of elastic to the snap probably adds some extra stretch as opposed to having them glued all the way up to the edge. I may need to move the sew-in snap a bit to account for the extra stretch. Thanks for the feedback. I'm also wondering if the elastic loops for the shoulder covers may help a bit. I see that on one side the white shoulder elastic is peeking out and that extra loop may hold all that stuff in place a little more. So I painted the knee rivets, I need to add the shoulder elastic loops and I plan to put some Velcro on the boots/shins to keep the sniper knee from wandering a bit. I think that will help clean some things up. I'm also strongly considering replacing the "screen accurate" popper snaps on the ab plate with some line 24s. The belt kept popping loose as I was walking around the house and if it comes off that easily I suspect it'll be a pain on a longer troop. Any thoughts on the robustness of poppers vs. line 24s for this spot? I used line 20 snaps and my belt always dropped when my blaster was holstered. A lot of the troopers in my garrison have used velcro in addition to the snaps to secure the belt to the ab plate. I have been meaning to switch out the line 20s for 24s but recently at a troop were my belt dropped I dabbed on some CA glue (not recommended) and now I don't have the issue but I also now have the issue of the belt not coming of when I want it to. Congrats and good luck! sent from my phone 1 Quote
Alay[TK] Posted September 24, 2016 Report Posted September 24, 2016 Installing the line 24 snaps on the ab plate is a real pain. Hoping it'll be easier and snap better with the press. Velcro isn't an awful idea either 2 Quote
sylverbard[TK] Posted September 25, 2016 Report Posted September 25, 2016 I've got two snaps in front and three at the overlap point in back. My belt doesn't pop off. I've had the abs ammo part pop off the canvas when a kid grabbed it. Holds holstered blaster just fine. If a belt is popping it's likely a tad tight and being strained by the back half sliding around. 1 Quote
sylverbard[TK] Posted September 25, 2016 Report Posted September 25, 2016 Installing the line 24 snaps on the ab plate is a real pain. Hoping it'll be easier and snap better with the press. Velcro isn't an awful idea eitherJust prop the ab plate up on pillows except the hammer point. Or make webbing snap plates and glue on with e6000. 1 Quote
Deadeye[TK] Posted September 25, 2016 Author Report Posted September 25, 2016 I think that at least for the time being, I'll be installing some industrial strength Velcro next to the snap closer toward the side/back. I'm hopeful that it is a reversible option but will be sufficient to hold the belt onto the snaps. I think you're right, Mark, that it is a little tight. I had mentioned in a previous thread the issues I was having fitting the parts together so I think I never really got it optimized. That combined with my concerns about the robustness of the popper snaps and it makes it tenuous at best. I think some big strips of Velcro will help. My only concern is how well it will stick to the canvas belt.<br><br> Thanks all for the congrats. Glad to join you troopers. Quote
zv288bot[TK] Posted September 27, 2016 Report Posted September 27, 2016 The industrial strength velcro will stick to the belt no worries. It's good stuff. sent from my phone 1 Quote
Deadeye[TK] Posted September 28, 2016 Author Report Posted September 28, 2016 EIB submitted. Fingers crossed. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38968-tk61673-requesting-anh-stunt-eib-status-ap/#entry521888 5 Quote
lucnak[TK] Posted October 12, 2016 Report Posted October 12, 2016 Hey congrats! Was MIA for a bit, but glad to see you approved and EIB! 1 Quote
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