Rogue One Stormtrooper CRL

[Parquette[TK]]

Hm interesting. The major part would be narrowing down the areas next to the box with a Dremel to give it that thin, straight look. The bottom of the R1TK back armor kind of spreads out to the underarm area (to where the black plastic is located).

[Parquette[TK]]

More info on the Ammo belt on the TK.

 

On the belt boxes second to last, they have a miniature ramp on top of them that is angled towards the abdomen. 

 

The belt boxes appear to be separate pieces from the actual belt itself.

 

In addition to, the plastic belt is actually comprised of 2 halves, which connect at the sides of the wearer. The one of the halves will overlap the other, though none specifically. I've seen 2 versions of this overlap, with one being the rear half almost overlapping, or the front. This is result to the velcro fabric belt being worn underneath the ammo belt, which connects it together. 

 

However, I think that the fabric belt could be optional for higher levels, seeing as how it's barely seen (you can see it in the EW pic closeup up above), and one could easily make the ammo belt connect through a snap on one of the halves so the other can overlap it.

[Parquette[TK]]

(edit: Is there a possibility we could eventually have a delete button?  )

Edited March 25, 2017 by Par_

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Okay guys,
Big news on the R1TK front, I literally just found out about this myself. Our friend Jim (Jimmiriquoi) the same guy who made
amazing sculpts of the First Order Stormtrooper, Shoretrooper, Tanktrooper, and Deathtrooper is now officially working on producing his
Rogue One Stormtrooper Armor, funny how the standard stormtrooper armor availability has come last. Probably because all the excitement
over all the other new costumes Rogue One brought us, but as they say "Save The Best For Last". This is whitearmor after all, and if anyone
is going to produce accurate R1TK armor, the FSID will be the first ones to do it.

 

Hi! Sorry for the long absence from the forum. Was swamped with Shore and Deathtrooper stuff on fb, the rpf, and other forums.
Now working on the R1TK:

Check out Jim's original post here; http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41169-jimmiroquai-rogue-one-tk-builds/

Edited May 25, 2017 by SlyFox740

[Daetrin[Admin]]

Tim - I posted this on Jim's thread, but do let's make sure we keep in sync. It would be pretty bad if he sculpted something not allowable, or if there was a detail we needed to remain in sync on that we missed.

[Parquette[TK]]

Here's my R1 Black Series mod currently I changed the brow to look lower by adding on rubber strips in the front and underside. To hide the seam on the top I put electrical tape over it. I also painted over the gray parts because i intend to repaint them next.

 

After taking these pics I sanded most of it down with really fine sandpaper (1500 grit). This reflects the slightly dull appearance of the screen used piece (though mine is duller. It gives the look I want though).

 

 

 

[Parquette[TK]]

Hey Tim! Out of curiosity what is the current stance on the Black Series helmet modded for basic?

 

Just trying to see if I should still pursue the mods.

[tydirium1[TK]]

Also notice the underside of the vocoder has more detail. It is actually comes unattached then attached back again. It is only the middle pieces that do it .

Edited March 31, 2017 by tydirium1

[Parquette[TK]]

Fun new information regarding the thermal detonator. The disk on top of it in the back is actually the same piece as the DeathTrooper chin lights. 

 

https://www.facebook.com/ThePropDen/photos/a.1119213728143638.1073742148.411305008934517/1161986540533023/?type=3&theater

 

http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=646053&d=1468947135

Edited April 1, 2017 by Par_

[Parquette[TK]]

Update to the CRL details regarding the neck seal.

 

*Fabric material is fine for basic, as long as it is black and ribbed.

*Is worn underneath the ribbed shirt/or undersuit (as seen in the close up image a page or 2 ago. You can also see in the Rogue One display from the premiere the ribs of the undershirt in the neck area of the chest armor.)

Edited May 30, 2017 by Par_

[Parquette[TK]]

More information regarding the raised trim on the arm, and leg armor.

 

So what if we went the same route as the other Rogue One CRL's, where the trim is actually just straight pieces of plastic, instead of pieces of plastic with the ends slanted to have a more ramp appearence? Here's what I'm thinking.

 

Lvl 1:

 

*Will be made of 2 pieces of plastic, the top layer being smaller and the ends of the bottom layer visible.

*The top layer doesn't meet the ends of the bottom layer, rather it ends before meeting it.

 

Lvl 2:

 

*The top layer is placed inside a sunk section of the bottom layer. It gives the trim an indented look when the top layer is placed inside.

*All the edges of the bottom layer are slanted, with the top and bottom slanted at a much more defined/shallow angle.

Edited April 8, 2017 by Par_

[Parquette[TK]]

Hey Tim, if it's ok with you, sometime this week I would like to post an updated version of the CRL information seen 2 pages ago (the extremely long CRL post I made, lol!), with the information that has been brought up since. 

 

And you guys were saying that you'd like to see an R1 CRL come up soon, well with all the information that has been stated based off of observations you could have just that! Once the updated information may be brought up to this thread, I was wondering if you Tim and the staff could review it and use it to your needs? If so, I'd include reference images gathered from different forums so that you could proof/change it. 

[cjkirk11]

Just went and watched R1 again and the stormtrooper to the far left of the frame caught my attention. I can't tell if he is wearing a pack or not?

 

[Parquette[TK]]

He must be, since all the troopers with pauldrons in R1 have packs<br>

In the same shot to the far right is a crystal patrol duty trooper

Edited April 11, 2017 by Par_

[jimmiroquai[TK]]

Hi! I just finished my R1TK build and i thought i'd help out a bit with the CRL with some input not yet found in the draft:

1) Helmet

- Helmet is symmetrical

- Chin section has a well defined seam from the angles of the mouth

- Vocoder tubular in nature with a visible gap between the outermost section and the helmet

 

2) Neck seal

-ANH or integrated with undersuit

- if separate neckseal, skirt must be tucked underneath the ribbed undershirt

 

3) Undersuit

- horizontal ribs made of non-shiny fabric at the chest, arms, knees ; approx 4-5mm

- hexagonal mesh at the armpits

- ribbed neck seal made of shiny material can be integrated - approx 6-8mm

- hip section does not have ribs

 

4) Shoulder armor

- Tops are rounded (vs all the others which come to a point)

- See Shoretrooper CRL for basic shape

 

5) Shoulder straps 

- made up of wekk defined half cylinders

- insert behind chest tabs and into slots of back plate

 

6) Biceps

- see Shoretrooper CRL for basic shape

 

7) Forearms

- see Shoretrooper CRL for basic shape (main difference with OT forearms is the straight profile of the ladder and the chamfered cover strips

 

8) Gloves/ Handplates

- Raised are is RO style (larger than OT)

- Gloves are similar to FOTK but in black

 

9) Chest armor

- raised trapezoids at the top of the shoulder section beneath which the straps insert

- pectoral outer "webs"/lines are more horizontally oriented than OT

- top pectoral out lines swoop outward

- bottom of ribcage flares outward

- Chest and back are connected by black extensions pieces

 

10) Back armor

- cog has 16 spines

- 11 has raised lines on one end

- Back pack has a trapzoidal indentation at the top

- Shoulder straps insert into raised trapezoidal sections

- There is a roughly 8mm circular indent near the right top corner of the backpack

- Bottom of back plate is curved and extends past the kidney plate

Edited June 12, 2017 by jimmiroquai

[jimmiroquai[TK]]

11) Abdomen + kidney armor

- See Shoretrooper ab armor for basic description

- no "kitkat bars" above the central panel

- Buttons have raised outlines and recessed centers

- diagonal raised area adjacent to a recessed black area

- closed in the back by a rectangular plate

 

12) see above

13) Posterior armor - Same as ANH (YEY!  the only piece that can be used from OT sets)

 

14) Belt

- Rigid front belt, roughly 3.5" wide with notches which key into ridges on abdominal plate

- 2 thin boxes (roughly 2x3x8cm) , 2 medium boxes (roughly 2x4x8cm) with a raised ridge on top, 2 wide (roughly 2x7x8cm) boxes, 2 hip plates (7x15cm) suspended with black elastic/webbing

- Rigid rear belt, roughly 3.5" wide, overlaps with front belt

 

15) Thermal Detonator

- roughly 3" in diameter, 8" long

- grey base, white endcaps with recessed sections painted grey.  

- control panel is white with a elongated semi circular section painted grey

- had a vertically oriented raised oval detail similar to but smaller in scale to a Deathtrooper chin greeblie

- attached to rigid rear belt

 

16) Cod armor

- higher cut than OT armor

 

17) Thigh armor

- Front cover strip is chamfered with a recessed outline

- top of thighs are rounded

- Back cover strip is also chamfered, can overlap

- Right thigh ammo strip

 

18) Shin armor

- Front and back cover strips are chamfered with a recessed outline

- overlap at the back

- Front cover strip terminates before top of knee horizontal section

- Knee plate is glued to left knee

 

19) Boots

- FOTK boots

- flat sole

- zipper on the inside

[Parquette[TK]]

These are great details for levels 2 and 3 I would suggest the more precise details like measurements are saved for those, with basic being basic. In regards to shoes I remember the FOTK CRL having options for either OT or TFA, which I heard can be done here.

[SlyFox740[TK]]

OT TK Chelsea Boots should be allowed for basic approval at the most, but with that the CRL should even recommend that

"Flat Soles are Preferred".

 

I'm currently working with ireachy and MrPaul on a CRL for the optional accessory Crystal Patrol Pack.

I'm also working on the optional accessory CRL for the Rogue One E-11 Blaster, I've already posted the Rogue One E-11 Blaster Reference thread that is pinned in the new R1 BlasTech E-11 subforum that I started in the Weapons Locker section; http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41271-rogue-one-e-11-blaster-reference/

Edited June 12, 2017 by SlyFox740

[ireachy]

More info on the Ammo belt on the TK.

 

On the belt boxes second to last, they have a miniature ramp on top of them that is angled towards the abdomen. 

 

The belt boxes appear to be separate pieces from the actual belt itself.

 

In addition to, the plastic belt is actually comprised of 2 halves, which connect at the sides of the wearer. The one of the halves will overlap the other, though none specifically. I've seen 2 versions of this overlap, with one being the rear half almost overlapping, or the front. This is result to the velcro fabric belt being worn underneath the ammo belt, which connects it together. 

 

However, I think that the fabric belt could be optional for higher levels, seeing as how it's barely seen (you can see it in the EW pic closeup up above), and one could easily make the ammo belt connect through a snap on one of the halves so the other can overlap it.

The belt is one of the most complex parts of the R1 TK armour. Not only does it have projections that key it to the ab plate - as per Jimmiroquai's posts -  but it also has that difficult two-part construction, with the overlaps at the sides. In some pics from the SWCE display the back part of the belt even angles up slightly to the det pack attachment area. It is also probably worth looking at the shoretrooper belt and compare the way that the belt boxes (on the actual belt itself) are constructed. I also think that the hanging belt boxes attach to the belt in a similar way as the shoretrooper ones do. They attach 'into' the belt box detail above them.

[jimmiroquai[TK]]

The belt is one of the most complex parts of the R1 TK armour. Not only does it have projections that key it to the ab plate - as per Jimmiroquai's posts -  but it also has that difficult two-part construction, with the overlaps at the sides. In some pics from the SWCE display the back part of the belt even angles up slightly to the det pack attachment area. It is also probably worth looking at the shoretrooper belt and compare the way that the belt boxes (on the actual belt itself) are constructed. I also think that the hanging belt boxes attach to the belt in a similar way as the shoretrooper ones do. They attach 'into' the belt box detail above them.

 

I noticed that most of the time the back bvelt overlaps the front but on some examples the front overlaps the back

[Parquette[TK]]

I copied and pasted the run down of all the details from page 6, and made a few minor changes.

Helmet
L1

*Is symetrical.

*Lenses are dark green.

*Is as pictured.

*Tube stripes are recessed.

*The recessed section of the tube stripes are blue.

*Head opening has black trim running all along the edge.


L2
*Has all the requirements of L1.

* Tube stripe areas are indented.
* Brow trim should be positioned 1/4" above the eyes.
* Ear screws must not have a visible slot mark and be flush to the ear.
* Any gap between the ears and helmet will only appear to be a seam, not any bigger.
* Behind the frown in between the teeth is wire screen mesh. It will be dark metallic or dark grey in color.

L3
*Has all the requirements of L1 and L2.

* Only 12 tube stripes per are allowed.

*The Tube stripes are completely hollowed out with a blue section underneath.

*Brow trim’s position varies throughout the film, but is always pretty straight and will not exceed the ¼” position.

*The Left eye on the helmet has an extremely subtle "hump" shape, or a bump on the bottom. Very shallow, but the shape of the eye is not the same on the bottom like the right eye. While it rises, it also protrudes slightly.
* No cut out forth tooth is allowed
* Rank bar area on ear must be of the correct RO style and pattern, no ANH style ear bumps allowed
* Frown wire screen mesh is dark grey in color, and there is nothing behind it that closes off the gaps.
 
Neckseal

*Neck seal is black in color.

*It is fully ribbed horizontally.

*Can either be just black fabric, or black shiny fabric that appears to resemble elastic material.

*Is tucked away or attached to the underside of the neck hole on the undersuit mentioned below.
 

L2 and L3

*Is shiny fabric material.

*Is attached to the underside of the neck hole of the undersuit mentioned below.

 

Undersuit Shirt and Gaskets

L1

*Is black.

*Is fully ribbed from top to bottom, all horizontal ribbing.

*Is made of fabric, not shiny.

*Pants are regular black undersuit pants. No tags or emblems are visible and style is up to the wearer.

*Gaskets are located at the knee, and fabric and ribs are exactly the same as the Undersuit shirt.

 

L2 and L3

*Has every detail listed above.

*The armpit area has a fish netting of sorts sewn in, and is black. 

Shoulder Armor

L1

*Completely covers the majority of the wearer’s shoulder.

*Slightly covers the top of the bicep armor.

*Has 1 cover strip running directly down the middle of it.

*The edge of the shoulder armor is rounded off, including the corners slightly.

Shoulder Straps
L1

*All the slabs on the straps are a horizontal brick pattern all along it, and are curve shaped.

*At each end on the chest and back armor is a slanted slot for the straps to insert into.

*The slots on the chest and back armor are further down the shoulder areas of the armor than the ANH Stunt and Hero armors.
 

Biceps
L1

*Is perfectly symmetrical.

*Has 2 cover strips, 1 on the front and 1 on the back.

*There is another cover strip on the wearer’s outside area of the bicep. It lines up perfectly with the section of trim on the shoulder armor.

*Each cover strip section has smaller pieces of trim on top of it that does not reach each end of the trim sections.

*Armpit area has a cutout shaped like this \__/ with it’s corners at the top rounded.

L2
* Front strip is beveled and approximately 1/8" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon.

L3

*Opening of the bicep is located at the back, directly at the cover strip located there. Is not intended to be a visible opening.

Forearms
L1

*Has cover strips located in the same areas as the biceps.

*The coverstrips are the same style as all the other cover strips on the other armor pieces.

*On the ends of each bar is a long piece of trim running up and down the grill. The trim will be seamless.

L2
* Front cover strip is beveled and approximately 1/8" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon.

Gloves/handplates
L1

*Gloves are all black, with a nylon material of sorts for the top, but a different fabric for the underside of the hand.

*On the index finger is a stitched piece of fabric (same material as the hand's underside) that, while stitched to the finger, has 1 cutout towards the end of the finger that reveals the netted material underneath. Like so, (_()___
*Gloves like engineering gloves can pass, as long as they are close in style.

*Directly attached to the ends of the gloves are fabric sections that go into the fore arm armor. This prevents any visibility of the wearer’s skin.

L2
*Palms of gloves are either shiny black fabric, or can be leather or leather like material.
* Hand guards should follow the correct RO shape, ANH hand guards are not acceptable

L3
* A small indent in the front of the hand plate shall be present
* Gloves shall have the correct leather pattern along the fingers/palm

Chest Armor
L1

*Is narrow and symetrical.

*Closely resembles the R1 armor.
L2
* Bottom of chest plate shall have a return edge
* Chest and back are connected with a gloss black piece of plastic. It is as tall as the bottom sections of the chest and back armor.

 
Back Armor
*Top of box wall has a mini recessed section. It's rectangular in design, though us slanted slightly.

*Has correct R1 detailing.

L2

*Back box has a little drilled out hole located above the box on the right side

Abdomen Armor
L1
* Left control button area is a raised box with four buttons, the bottom being blue and the rest grey. The buttons are recessed.
* Back edge of ab plate is angle cut at approximately 70 degrees and has a small gab between the ab and kidney. At the slant, is a wide strip covering the end.
L2
* There are two vertical notches on either side of the front vertical bar that connects to the ab plate details, approximately 1" long
L3
* Ab plate detail has the correct horizontal bevel detail cut-out along the top. Button details are recessed and bordered with a thin edge.
* Cod is separated from the ab plate
* The right front raised area is rectangular with correct raised detail, unlike ANH.

Kidney Armor
*Has no detailing. The ends meet with the Abdomen armor with the slant angled parallel with the ends of the Ab armor.

*Directly in the middle is a sideways rectangular plastic section, which is separate from the Kidney.


Posterior Armor
L1

*Is shaped like the ANH Stunt and Hero posterior armor.

*Is symetrical, and completely separate from the kidney armor.

*The cod's shape has no angles like the OT, but rather is shaped like so, \  /

Belt
L1

*Is entirely made of plastic, made up of 2 pieces, with the halves joining directly in the middle of the wearer's side waist. The rear half overlaps the front half's ends and attach with whatever method deemed suitable by the builder.

*Along the top in the front are tabs that fit into the non raised sections of the abdomen.

*Has ammo boxes across the front, all of them made separately from the main belt and are secured to it.

*The ammo boxes on the very left and right of the belt are more square instead of rectangular like the center ammo boxes, and the 2nd to last ammo box is a more fat rectangular shape versus the regular rectangular shape of the center boxes. 

*Above the thighs of the wearer are located 2 hanging ammo boxes from the ammo belt.

*Is made to fit the wearer.
 

L2
* Belt has indents and tabs along the outside belt boxes to sit flush against the ab plate.
* Drop boxes are connected to the belt via black Velcro, not white.
 
Thermal detonator
L1

*Is very similar to the ANH Stunt and Hero. However, is much sharper in sculpt, and has separate pieces. 
*The "button" on it is a Deathtrooper chin light without electronics or lenses.

L2
* End caps are painted grey on the inside
 
Thigh Armor
L1

*For basic, it can have the same style cover trim as the arms, with an extra cover strip on top that is slightly smaller. The only difference with these is that they actually meet the ends and are flush with the bottom layer.

*Is fit to wearer

*Have raised areas directly in the middle of the front and back areas, with the above mentioned piece of trim on top of each raised area.

*On the wearer's right thigh, at the bottom is a mini ammo belt, it only exists on the front and slightly goes to the sides, but it doesn't exist in the rest of the sides or back.

*Is short enough that the sniper knee plate of the wearer's left shin doesn't catch (if you look in the film they were purposefully made shorter than the originals)

*Not too much curvature in the front (if you look at the screen caps they aren't too curved, and actually have foam paddings inserted so that it doesn't bounce around at the top)
L2
*Trim has no second layer, but instead has engraved lines parallel with the sides. They are located close to the edge.

* Front cover strip is beveled and approximately 1/8" thick, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon.
* Right thigh ammo belt is secured using glue, no visible rivets shall be present.
 
Lower Leg Armor
L1

*Is fit to wearer

*On the wearer's left shin at the top, is a special extension called the sniper's knee plate, which will be done as pictured. It is extended forward a little bit, and no rivets are visible.

*The wearer's right shin has no special extension at the top.

*Cover strips in front and back are the same style as all the other cover strips.

L2
* Front cover strip is beveled and approximately 1/8" thick, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon.
 
Boots

L1
TAKE NOTE: Like the FOTK CRL the OT Stormtrooper boots can be approved for basic if applicant can't find the FOTK style boot in their shoe size.

 

-For FOTK Boots:

*Are all white.

*Completely black soles that are all 1 piece, with no separation at the heel. It is a completely straight sole.

*The wearer's inner side of the boots have zippers, which no Chukka boot elastic.

*Are made of leather or leather like material. Must be white.

*Are the same as the FOTK boots
Holster
Start with ANH Stunt as a base http://databank.501s...ng:TK_anh_stunt
* Holster is optional.

L2
* Holster is not present

Edited June 23, 2017 by Par_

[Daetrin[Admin]]

Thanks everyone. I cleaned up the wording and formatting to make them consistent with the way 501st does their CRLs. Jim - I took your notes and blended them in before posting.

 

You can see the FIRST POST for what it would look like.

 

I'd like to call this "done" next week. We can make minor tweaks to the language. FYI that it is a visual CRL, so we don't have to be perfect in all descriptions. "Look like the picture" can be fine if we provide clear text that helps GMLs decide what is acceptable or not.

 

I *think* I got everything, but it would be great if folks can double check.

[Daetrin[Admin]]

Oh, and we *will* need really good pictures for the CRL. Jim - would you be able to submit those on a neutral background? We need something high resolution, but that we can easily photoshop.

 

Or, if someone else has already built Jim's kit, that would work too...

[Parquette[TK]]

You included the bump! Yay!  

[Parquette[TK]]

Hey Daetrin, is there a possibility I could use primer paint on my tears/trapazoids? The only gray paint I found that matches is model paint (which I used), but the CRL draft says no to hand painting. It's hard to find the right color gray spray paint at the stores I've checked.