Rogue One Stormtrooper CRL

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Yes, absolutely. It looks to me almost like the buckle that you'd see on rollerblades or ski boots, where the ridged strap slides into and clicks into place to lock it.

 

So then how would it be attached to the back plate, maybe its permanently fixed ?

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

I believe that what I described is what it is designed to functionally represent, but that it is probably velcroed/magnetized or otherwise permanently affixed.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

On another note, the DLT-19 and T-21 are equipped with shoulder straps and the DLT at least has a Tactical light. With these be added as a base requirement or an optional part of the weapon CRL?

 

[Parquette[TK]]

Just to add to the strap discussing.

 

On the ROTJ trooper, the straps are rubber/ribbed, like the R1 TK images above. It would make it easier to slip on, and you can have the straps glued to the armor with the slot covers over it. Let me pull up a ref pic in a little bit of what I mean.

 

Anyhow, another observation is that the shoulder bells operate on a similar strapping system to the FOTK and the Deathtroopers. They stay slightly stationary when the arms move, but they do move with the arm. You can see the gap between the bicep and the bottom of the shoulder bell when they move forward.

 

So it very obviously is connected to the shoulder straps using a slightly stiffer strap or rubber piece, so that it stays relatively still, but also moves with the arms.

[Parquette[TK]]

Observe the shoulder straps. They are ribbed, very similar to the ones on the R1-TK. Might help with other builders looking for straps. As long as it isn't wonky, but rather has a uniform look.

 

For some reason I can't copy/paste an image from the other thread. Here's the link.

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/39908-correct-way-to-connect-the-ribbed-straps-to-the-chest-armor/

Edited March 1, 2017 by Par_

[Parquette[TK]]

Hey Tim, or Daetrin, Im kind of in trouble with my build.

 

Need help A.S.A.P, especially from GML's!!! So I've scared the crap out of myself last night assembling my TK shin armor. I am assembling a full R1 TK for when the in progress CRL is released. I am shooting for basic. While I made my own trim tonight for my shin armor, I did something incredibly stupid. I let the bottom cut of the trim go with the cut at the bottom of one of the shin halves I think I was going to hide with the overlap in the shin pieces. What do I do? Could this pass basic, seeing as how the 2 staff guys on the forums want the basic guidelines in thr CRL to truly be basic? I can't submit for less than a year, and this'll scare and pester me until then I used loctite superglue here, but intend on using e600 for the assembly of the shins.

 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Hey Tim, or Daetrin, Im kind of in trouble with my build.

 

Need help A.S.A.P, especially from GML's!!! So I've scared the crap out of myself last night assembling my TK shin armor. I am assembling a full R1 TK for when the in progress CRL is released. I am shooting for basic. While I made my own trim tonight for my shin armor, I did something incredibly stupid. I let the bottom cut of the trim go with the cut at the bottom of one of the shin halves I think I was going to hide with the overlap in the shin pieces. What do I do? Could this pass basic, seeing as how the 2 staff guys on the forums want the basic guidelines in thr CRL to truly be basic? I can't submit for less than a year, and this'll scare and pester me until then I used loctite superglue here, but intend on using e600 for the assembly of the shins.

 

Well if it's like most armor it's squared off at each end, maybe tapered corners. 

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

Another idea, depending on the current fit/etc...  You could potentially cut the entire curve up a little bit higher to reach the bottom of the higher corner on the cover strip.

 

Also, I could foresee you having an issue with that passing basic, yes.  

I would simply cut the curve higher as I mentioned above if I were unable to remove the parts from the front to replace them.

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

Another idea, depending on the current fit/etc...  You could potentially cut the entire curve up a little bit higher to reach the bottom of the higher corner on the cover strip.

[Parquette[TK]]

So here's my solution to the problem. I glued together some plastic pieces into a stack, and glued it to the shin. Once I've e6000'd the shin, I'll put some filler and superglue into the seam to blend it in. What does everyone think?

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

Perfect solution!  Looking forward to seeing it done.  

[Parquette[TK]]

Actually, I took your suggestion after the piece broke off, and cut it up to the slant. I will post pics in a bit. Hopefully it'll do.

 

Also a reason shortening it to the slant may work is because the shins and the thighs have a good gap between them at the knee area. This is because the shin is shorter than the OT, and it helps keep the sniper knee plate from sticking into the shin.

[Parquette[TK]]

and in addition to, it was affecting articulation in the front of the foot when I walked, so this is better

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

Nice point.  The R1 TKs are actually cut for better mobility overall in most of the scenes anyway.  Certainly no issue with a little more black showing on one of them, as opposed to the OT TKs.

[Parquette[TK]]

{Edit} I updated the brow on my helmet, Ill share pics soon.

Edited March 4, 2017 by Par_

[Parquette[TK]]

I painted the helmet yesterday!

 

Too glossy though? In real life there are more reflections in the paintjob than in this photo. It almost looks wet when you have it out.

 

DO NOT use the Rustoleum Universal Pure White paint (unless it's the Enamel version. From what I've seen in pics of that, it looks good). It is NOT pure white in my experiance. I used 2 different cans, though I think the first was more white than the second. It is an egg white color, and it looks like your stormtrooper drinks cream in his coffee.

 

Use the Rustoleum 2x Gloss White paint.

 

 

 

Also I cut up some really angular weather stripping from Ace Hardware. But because the angle wouldn't wrap onto the original brow very good (the underside wasn't flat, it kept staying a slope), I cut a front piece for the front of the original trim, and another for the underside. So there is a seam at the underside edge of the brow. I may close that up with electrical tape or something, but that stuff is shiny, and I want to stay away from that as much as possible (the shininess makes it look....... wrong). But the updated brow is in these pics! What do you think Tim? After explaining it how I did it, should it be fine?

 

 

 

On a side note, my OT TK boots come in today! Made by TK Boots. Though not FO, I'm going more for basic on this costume, and as stated already, it'll most likely be approvable for basic if your have OT TK boots. I think Ill have the sole worked on to be flat or something. We'll see. It may or may not happen. Anyway, here it goes!

Edited March 7, 2017 by Par_

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

Looking good, Reese!!  

 

I like what you're doing with the bucket, and in my opinion, a TK cannot be too shiny.  They will weather over time, and "settle" into a more realistic and used universe look.  You know, like Star Wars had.  

[Parquette[TK]]

Thank you Tim! What do you think regarding the brow? I can provide a better pic of that seam on the underside I was talking about.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Looks great Reese, yea the brow trim will need to be touched up. Can't wait to see some photos of what the seamed areas now look like. 

[Parquette[TK]]

Looks great Reese, yea the brow trim will need to be touched up. Can't wait to see some photos of what the seamed areas now look like. 

The seam under the brow, or the rear? I can show both if you like  

[ukswrath[Staff]]

The seam under the brow, or the rear? I can show both if you like

 

Ear and battery tray

[Parquette[TK]]

Oh I didn't do the ears. Just the battery compartment tray and speaker. I think a little superglue in the ear button and pushing it down may do it. I kept the rubber switch inside so that I could keep the button on the helmet. 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Roger

[SlyFox740[TK]]

I copied and pasted the current CRL base onto a writing program on my computer so that I can add all the more in-depth details. I'll share the updated version here a little bit after I have written in more of the found details. Does anyone have some observations of the costume that could be implemented into a new draft? My apologies I seem to be all "I'll do this and I'll do that." This is a community after all, so suggestions and ideas are welcome

 

Also I think I have a much better source for Chest armor instead of FX armor, which is the A.M V.2. Apparantly in another build thread on here, the builder showed some good pics of it. The AM V.2 is straight, long, and has the correct curve sculpt around the shoulder area. With just a few minor mods, I think I may be using this. The main mod I can think of is installing new strap inserts at the shoulder areas.

 

It's funny, its supposed to be OT, but it's almost perfect for R1! I love it when things like that happen

Not my pics, other builder's pics from build thread

​

Note the curve steering away from the shoulder straps, which is very similar to the R1 trooper's. Also note the symmetry and elongated look of the whole piece.

​Again with minor mods this could work. Just showing the options out there, not including any names in the CRL.

In addition to the FX back plate I think the AM 2.0 back plate could work really well as a base for modification to a R1 TK as well

The pulls are nice and sharp which gives the corners and edges the required definition. Also the sculpt is idealized and symmetrical like that of the R1 armor.

It will need to be modified to have the top vent slit and other details.

 

Edited March 7, 2017 by SlyFox740

[SlyFox740[TK]]

I've noticed the Anovos back plate also has a somewhat "chiseled" appearance, actually the entire kit is like this due to the sharp pulls Anovos sells. Though I feel the AM 2.0 or FX back plate has much more of a Rogue One appearance due to the idealized symmetry of the fan sculpt vs. the original asymmetrical sculpt of the Anovos.

 

Here's the FX back plate again just for reference.

Edited March 7, 2017 by SlyFox740