Cookie Monster's Jimmiroquai FOTK

[Cookie Nomster]

I continued two days ago with my plan to begin painting the inside of my bucket prior to tackling the outside.  I'm using Rustoleum Universal All Surface Spray in Satin Black for the interior of the bucket.  I applied just one coat on the inside, and it ended up looking pretty good.  The intent is to reduce the glare and to have the interior of the bucket look somewhat finished.  There is orange peel, but I'm not planning to do any sanding on the inside as it won't be visible to anyone.  

 

Here are a couple pictures of how that turned out (though they don't do a very good job of showing the inside).

 

Shortly after spraying

 

Approximately 24 hours later

 

Today, I began work on the external white spraying of the bucket.  For the job, I'm using Rustoleum Universal All Surface Spray Paint in Gloss White.  You can find it at Home Depot (US), Menards (US), and even on Amazon.  

 

The first thing I did was remove the blue painters tape protecting the bottom of the helmet from the black spray.  Then I taped off the inside of the bucket to prevent white overspray from drifting onto the black I just applied a day before.  The rest of the helmet had already been taped off, as previously shown.  Here's a picture of the protection job.  

 

Protecting the black from overspray

 

I applied three coats today, spaced apart by approximately 3-6 minutes.  i will now allow the helmet to dry for 24 hours before re-evaluating if additional coats are needed.  I might need to do some light wet sanding with super-fine grit sandpaper (>600) to knock off some of the splatter from the rattle can.  Also, I want to see how much bleed I have from the primer.  It's possible that another 3 coats will be needed, followed by probably gloss coat or clear-coat.  I'll probably go with clearcoat and sand that layer instead of the paint itself.  

 

Here are a couple pictures of the process.

 

After first coat.  Grey primer still visible

 

After coat #1

 

After coat #1

 

Coat #2

 

Coat #3

 

Coat #3

 

As I mentioned above, at least 24 hour dry time required here...I might leave it alone for a couple days before I do anything else.  We'll see what kind of time I have.  Unfortunately, this upcoming weekend is filled with other activities, so I might not make much progress over the next few days.  

Edited August 14, 2017 by Cookie Nomster
fixing Photobucket links

[separoga]

Wow!! You´re doing a great job!! I´m following this, because you give me good ideas for my suit and helmet.

[Cookie Nomster]

It's been nearly a month since my last post!  Sorry for that!  The build progress has definitely slowed down some due to life, kids, etc.  One major factor has been the heat.  Since I'm doing alot of work in the garage, it's blazing hot out there with 90 degree plus weather for the last 2 weeks, not to mention that humidity.  With all that said, some progress has been made, and I'm hoping it picks up here in this next month.

 

My last post detailed some helmet painting.  Since that last post, I've applied at least two more coats of white to the helmet, with a light wet sand once.  I plan to do another round of wet sanding, then a coat of white followed by multiple coats of clear gloss to finish up the white.  Then I'll attack the black.  

 

Aside from the helmet, my focus has shifted to the legs...specifically the thighs.  So I've actually had approximately 3-4 trimming and sanding sessions on the thighs, because I've found that it the mold was much too long for my particular legs.  The approach has been trim, sand, fit, repeat.  With significant trimming required, you can imagine it took me a bit to do this.  

 

Here is an early shot of the thighs, from when I first started.  On the left is an untrimmed thigh, and on the right is one that has undergone the first round of trimming at the top only.  

 

I ended up trimming from the bottom twice, and from the top about 3 times.  Also, I cut out parts of the bottom for the knee cap and the joint behind the knee.  Despite the current level of trimming, I could probably do more, but I'm going to leave it as-is for now.  

 

Thighs after multiple trim and sand sessions

 

Bottom-front of thigh

 

Rear-bottom of thigh.  As you can see, its slightly more rounded.  Even so, it will be difficult to kneel.  One knee doable..both...impossible

 

I also ordered a holster and clip set from Justin Morrison of the Emerald City Garrison (don't know his TK ID).  Other builders have also ordered from him with good results.  The clips and holster are much sharper and more refined than the ones that come with the Jimmi kit, but the total cost including shipping was a steep $106 dollars US, which almost kept me from placing the order.  I hope these details are worth the price...it's not yet mounted, and won't be until I paint.  

 

 

My next step will to create the nylon belt that will hold up these thigh pieces, plus some additional strapping from my chest rig to connect with that belt.  

 

I've also been working, without much success, on final mounting options for my chest plate.  I'm getting a little frustrated with it, and have to go back to the store for better velcro.  More to follow...hopefully the next update isn't a month from now!

Edited August 14, 2017 by Cookie Nomster
fixing Photobucket links

[JAFO[TK]]

Great update Vince! I'm about to tackle the thighs myself.

Edited August 29, 2016 by JAFO

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Nice work Vince

 

[Cookie Nomster]

I was able to continue progress tonight....the wife graciously allowed me to utilize the sewing machine and so on while she worked on a puzzle in the same room.  Maybe it was because I used my newfound sewing skills to repair a set of sheets for the kids bed?  

 

Anyway, picking up where I left off from the other night - I started the night working on the chest plate.  My initial plan was to utilize magnets with a small amount of velcro, but I don't think that's going to work out.  I'm going for the "lots of velcro + snaps" approach, although there is only one snap at the moment.  Also, the velcro I had used previously wasn't puffy enough to catch.  On this armor set, there is a little distance between the chest plate and the yoke because the edges kind of flare out.  That makes it harder for the velcro to meet on the insides of the armor.  So my approach is to load up on velcro so that some of it catches.  

 

First, I did some removal of what was there previously.  Then measured and trimmed sticky-back velcro + CA glue and attached the new pieces.  Check it out:

 

Might be a little hard to see, but the yoke is covered in the sharp side of the velcro.  All the velcro will be hidden from external view by the yoke

 

And here's the other side...obviously the behind-view of the chest-plate itself.  You can see the magnets here...at the moment these will NOT be used.  

 

The magnets that are there will probably be removed for better velcro adherence.  The magnets obviously pushed the chest plate away slightly, so they will be coming off.  I might have to re-use these super magnets somewhere else in the build.  

 

With the new velcro, I was eager to try the chest plate on to see how well I liked the connection.  

 

Trying on the uppers.  No gaskets or neck seal when I was trying this on...was trying to get a feel for how sturdy the connection was.  I was satisfied with it; though I foresee potential future tweaking here.  

 

The uppers are not completely done yet.  I need to install velcro on the inside of the forearms and the biceps...but I'll probably tackle that simple job when I velcro the thighs.

 

Since I had the sewing machine out anyway, my next job this evening was to begin work on the belt which will hold up the thighs.  I got the initial simple belt itself completed, but the next step will be to add four straps (two per thigh) that will drop straight down from this belt, and then velcro inside the thighs.  Ran out of time tonight to do measurements and the drop-straps, but the belt is complete 

 

Simple belt sewn and complete.  Next, I will add four drop straps will be added that will connect to the thighs.  

 

But, I'm out of time for tonight, see you next time.  

Edited August 14, 2017 by Cookie Nomster
fixing Photobucket links

[Cookie Nomster]

Amazingly I was able to get another 1.5 hours in on the build tonight.  The primary objective was to complete the straps for the thigh-belt.  These particular pieces will hang down off the belt created in the previous post, and velcro to the inside of the thighs.  Here's to hoping the velcro will be enough to hold up those heavy pieces.  The beauty of this system is that I can add a third strap if necessary to hold up the thighs.

 

First step was to measure the length needed for the strapping.  Due to the curvature of the thigh pieces, I found that I could most benefit from two lengths of strap - 10" and 11" (one of each size per thigh).  This length is non-inclusive of the material on the strap that will loop around the belt (which I measured to be around 6.5").  Total lengths of straps - 16.5 and 17.5 inches.  

 

I cut the straps, used a soldering iron to touch up the tips, and then sewing machine to create the loops and sew on the sharp side of the velcro, which will face out towards the inner part of the thigh.  Here are some pictures of the finished product.  I have not yet applied the soft-side velcro to the inside of the thighs...ran out of time to do that tonight.  

 

Close-up of belt and straps

 

 

Looking straight down on the belt and the straps

 

To give you an idea of how it will hang down, and the placement.  I found that it will work best to place this in the area of my waist that I normally wear a belt

 

Holding up the thigh pieces so you can see the general idea.  Obviously the straps will go inside the armor.  

Edited August 14, 2017 by Cookie Nomster
fixing Photobucket links

[JAFO[TK]]

Great work Vince. I was measuring up the exact same thing this morning.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Amazingly I was able to get another 1.5 hours in on the build tonight.  The primary objective was to complete the straps for the thigh-belt.  These particular pieces will hang down off the belt created in the previous post, and velcro to the inside of the thighs.  Here's to hoping the velcro will be enough to hold up those heavy pieces.  The beauty of this system is that I can add a third strap if necessary to hold up the thighs.

 

First step was to measure the length needed for the strapping.  Due to the curvature of the thigh pieces, I found that I could most benefit from two lengths of strap - 10" and 11" (one of each size per thigh).  This length is non-inclusive of the material on the strap that will loop around the belt (which I measured to be around 6.5").  Total lengths of straps - 16.5 and 17.5 inches.  

 

I cut the straps, used a soldering iron to touch up the tips, and then sewing machine to create the loops and sew on the sharp side of the velcro, which will face out towards the inner part of the thigh.  Here are some pictures of the finished product.  I have not yet applied the soft-side velcro to the inside of the thighs...ran out of time to do that tonight.  

 

 

Close-up of belt and straps

 

 

 

Looking straight down on the belt and the straps

 

 

To give you an idea of how it will hang down, and the placement.  I found that it will work best to place this in the area of my waist that I normally wear a belt

 

 

Holding up the thigh pieces so you can see the general idea.  Obviously the straps will go inside the armor.  

 

Makes sense , pretty much the same technique the screen used armor is suspended 

[Cookie Nomster]

Makes sense , pretty much the same technique the screen used armor is suspended 

 

Yeah....I don't profess to pretend anything I'm doing here hasn't been done by somebody else.  I've looked at a lot of pictures, other peoples build threads, and I guess I'm just hoping that my pictures give a good view of literally each part of the process.  In no way will this be as detailed as your build threads...but I'm hoping it will have more pictures than any of the Jimmi builds I've seen so far.  The detail you put into your build threads requires a level of patience and time the force has not endowed upon me.  

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Yeah....I don't profess to pretend anything I'm doing here hasn't been done by somebody else.  I've looked at a lot of pictures, other peoples build threads, and I guess I'm just hoping that my pictures give a good view of literally each part of the process.  In no way will this be as detailed as your build threads...but I'm hoping it will have more pictures than any of the Jimmi builds I've seen so far.  The detail you put into your build threads requires a level of patience and time the force has not endowed upon me.  

 

lol, well you're doing a great job, keep it up.

[Cookie Nomster]

The empress graciously granted me some time on Labor Day to work on the build, and I was able to utilize it to accomplish some things that have been lingering around.  

 

In the last build update, I built the belt that would hold up the legs.  In between then and now, I used two-part epoxy to glue the fuzzy-side velcro to the inside of the thighs.  Here is a picture:

 

Thigh velcro placement

 

After trying things on, I was very happy with the placement and the belt itself.  However, I found that the weight of the thighs really pulls down on the belt.  Several others have connected their belts to the main chest harness to help keep the belt up.  I decided this was necessary after trying on the armor with the belt not connected.  

 

So the first thing I did on labor day was focus on creating extensions to hold up the belt.  I took four straps, meticulously measured them after trying on abs with belt, and then created loops and sewed the extensions to the existing harness.  For those following this build, the best way to do this will be to just run the original chest harness all the way down to the bottom of the abs...would have been much easier.

 

Extensions sewed on and dropping to hold the thigh belt

 

To be honest, I'm not sure yet how I'll suit up...we'll figure that part out later  I think it's most likely that I'll step into the thighs and abs, pull them up over me, then snap the abs in the front to the chest harness.  

 

The next step was to tackle the calf pieces, which are two-parts.  The insides of the knees require trimming, because they don't flare like the outside of the knee.  With my particular version of the kit, the calf pieces utilized the same mold for both legs.  Earlier in this build, I filled and sanded the indent for the clasps on the inside of the legs (because there are no clasps on the inside, only the outside of the leg).  Now, I was careful to make sure my cuts were matching the right sides of the legs.  I used aviation snips, followed by detail sander to achieve smooth edges.  

 

Freshly cut inside (front and back pieces both shown here, they are not yet glued together)

 

I didn't take pictures of the rest of the process, as you get the idea, but here are some shots of the finished product

 

Front of calf

 

Rear of calf

 

Since I was out getting covered in fiberglass anyway, I decided I was going to cut out some pieces of the forearms which some have used decals for.  The black of my undersuit will show up nicely through these holes.  I used a dremel followed by needle files to achieve straight and smooth lines.

Forearm detailing.  I think it will look nicer than decals in these locations.  You can see top and bottom of forearms.  

 

I also used this time to trim and sand my spats.  I will probably follow steamboatphan's method of spats, by utilizing the clip and some velcro.  

Spats trimmed and ready for primer and paint

 

I also gave a nice light sand to the belt boxes and leg boxes that will go on the armor.  They will be ready for primer and paint after this.

Belt and leg boxes sanded

 

Next, I used a razor blade to trim up the helmet clips that came with my mitcheg1 helmet.  

Nice clean lines achieved with a simple razor blade

 

I finished the night with filling of holes and defects using apoxy sculpt.  I focused on the thighs, knee pads, spats, and calves.  I will sand this down sometime this week...though next two nights are booked with other activities.

 

This part is a pain, but should be worth it in the end.  Filling tiny air bubble holes with apoxy sculpt.

 

And last but not least...my Heston 3D blaster arrived in the mail today.  This is the 501st version, no stock.  I wasn't originally planning to get the Heston blaster, but it went on sale with immediate shipping, so I picked one up since I anticipate finishing the armor sometime in the next 4-5 weeks, and I don't have the time to assemble and paint my own at this time (though I may still do so...or elect for another maker in the future).  This will get the job done in the short term.  

 

The Heston 3D stock-less blaster.

 

That's all for now folks!

Edited September 6, 2016 by Cookie Nomster

[Danvers14]

Like the way you did your thigh suspension system. I'm using clips for mine and so far only have the two straps in the front. Might add some side/rear ones like yours. I'm just not sure how much more trimming I'm going to have to do. Crotch bite is the worst. Looking good sir! 

[Cookie Nomster]

Another update to share.  

 

First, I've been slowly working on my mitcheg1 helmet, and have been adding gloss coats to the white.  Unfortunately, I had a slight run on the beak, and will have to do some spot sanding, probably 1 re-coat of white, then 3-4 recoats of gloss.  However, the helmet is coming along nicely, probably only one more round of gloss coat before I moved to painting the black.  Then a few more coats of gloss and probably a light wet sand and compound + polish.  I hope it works out....I truthfully don't know what I'm doing when it comes to painting, and there are so many opinions on the internet that I'm not sure exactly what to do...but if it turns out halfway decent, I'll be happy.  I know it won't be perfect.  I have to keep telling myself that the biggest critics will be others in the 501st.  Most people off the street won't notice the imperfections I know exist.

 

Helmet after 3-4 gloss-coats on the white.  Next step:  paint the black

 

I last worked on the helmet about 4 days ago, so last night I took a big step and began prepping the rest of the armor for paint.  Most of my strapping is done, and what remains can be done after the painting (lower-legs, velcro inside forearms and biceps).  My Darman neckseal should be arriving on Thursday, so I'm excited to see how that makes everything look.  

 

Anyway, I began taping things up for primer.  Because this armor is flexible, one of the major concerns is cracking of paint.  Many Jimmi builders have found this to be an unavoidable fact of life with this armor.  I have therefore elected to use two different types of primer:

• Rustoleum Filler Primer
• SEM Flexible Primer

The Rustoleum will be used for the majority of the build, particularly in parts that won't experience much flexing (shoulder bells, biceps, helmet, forearms, thighs, calfs, knees, hand, belt boxes).  The SEM will be used for the parts known to flex, particularly the abs, chest-plate, spats, and yolk.  The SEM is nearly triple the price-per-can of Rustoleum, so here's to hoping it works out.  The idea is that the underlying primer must flex, or the paint won't flex with it.  Who knows it it will work.  I bought one can, and was able to coat the above-mentioned flexible parts with just the one can.  

 

Here are some pictures of the process.  

 

All these parts used Rustoleum

 

Rustoleum filler primer used here

 

Everything here used SEM flexible primer

 

These parts also used SEM flex primer

 

Parts laid out to dry, which they do fairly quickly.  The butt-plate is turned over so I could spray the bottom edge.

 

You can see I also sprayed my helmet greeblies

 

I was fairly happy with the smoothness of my armor.  I have to go out and inspect it again now that it has dried overnight, but I don't have too much more filling to do.  I spent alot of time, particularly on the lower half of the armor and chest-plate filling in air-bubble holes from the casting process.  I still have some work to do, but overall it shouldn't be much more than a night of light spot-sanding, fill, dry, then spot sand and light re-coat of primer.  Two days total effort, and only on select pieces.  Some of the armor will be ready for a light wet-sand and painting.  I do plan to tape over some additional snaps which caught more paint than I thought they would, but otherwise I'm close to starting the full-on paint-job for this armor.  Here's to hoping I can get it right.  

Edited September 14, 2016 by Cookie Nomster

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Getting close Vince

[JAFO[TK]]

Going great guns. You'll be finished in no time. Watching the painting results with much interest

[Cookie Nomster]

So, remember that part about being pretty happy with the number of air bubbles?  

 

Yeah, I lied. 

 

After allowing the primer to dry for about two days, I brought it in this evening to fully inspect it up close.  As many of you know, after primer is when many imperfections are clearly visible.  I was probably being a perfectionist, but there were tons of tiny holes to fill that I had previously missed.  The number of surface imperfections in this armor is huge, primarily because of the material used to construct it.  

 

Tonight the mission objective was to fill in all the holes using apoxie sculpt.  First thing I did was very closely visually inspect each piece and use a pencil to circle imperfections I wanted to address, like so (below).  This process was performed on every single piece provided by Jim, and only one piece (hand plate) did not need some type of filling.  

 

This process repeated on every single piece of armor

 

So, after about 2.5 hours of filling with apoxie sculpt, I finally have everything filled pretty much....except for some spots on my helmet beak that still need to be addressed.  But truthfully, the working time you have with apoxie sculpt is probably closer to 1.5 hours compared to the 4 they claim on the package.  So at 2.5, it was becoming very difficult to manipulate, and I was glad to be done.  I filled probably several hundred holes.  It appears the worst spots are clearly around the fiberglass joins, but there are assorted air bubbles all over the place.  Truth be told...I'm looking forward to working with ABS on the next build.

 

Anyway...here are two pictures of tonight's effort.  

 

So many holes...so little time

 

 

I have not yet performed any wet sanding of the primer coat (which it clearly needs).  My first step will be to let this apoxie sculpt cure for 24 hours, then knock it down with some manual sanding, and probably some spot sanding with the detail sander.  I plan to inspect it, and then make a decision if additional coats are required with the primer prior to wet sanding.  I have a feeling this will be the next step.  

 

A few items have arrived, and I'm feeling pretty close to being at the point where I shouldn't have to buy anything else to complete my first troop once this armor is done.  My Darman neck seal arrived (less than a week from order placed to arriving at my doorstep), and also my electrical equipment for a planned experimental mod of the Heston F-11D to add lights.  

 

 

As you can see, we have 3mm red LEDs, some 47k oHm resistors, and some 3v batteries, as well as battery housings, including two with on/off switches.  I don't know much about electric, so we'll see if it works out.  Tackling the blaster mod will probably be the very last thing I do because I don't need lights to troop with the gun.  

 

That's all for tonight folks, check back later this weekend hopefully!

Edited September 17, 2016 by Cookie Nomster

[JAFO[TK]]

And just when you think you're getting closer! What a stellar effort. I've really got to get myself to this stage soon.

[Cookie Nomster]

The problem is that even the tiniest defects show up under paint.  When I was working on the helmet beak, I sanded it down and did some filling and thought - hey, the primer filler should take care of the rest.  I don't want to walk around looking like a Stormtrooper pin cushion.  Here's a shot of the beak that I took this morning to show the types of tiny defects that become painfully obvious after paint.  

 

[sylverbard[TK]]

Hit it with 800 grit, then glazing putty. Let dry. Rub surface with thumb or thumb part of palm. Re putty. Let dry. Light 800 grit. Holes should vanish.

[Cookie Nomster]

Hit it with 800 grit, then glazing putty. Let dry. Rub surface with thumb or thumb part of palm. Re putty. Let dry. Light 800 grit. Holes should vanish.

 

Agree....I glazing putty would probably have been much easier than what I did.  

[sylverbard[TK]]

Maybe. But I've seen too many builds where Bondo and glazing putty are structural...then All crack to bejebus. Apoxie sculpt, glue, proper finishing so things just fit are all better than Bondo.

[Cookie Nomster]

Quick update tonight...began the sanding process after filling.  The ideal way to do this would involve some level of wet sanding, but the apoxie sculpt is relatively troublesome with light grit sponges by hand, so I'm using a detail sander to knock off the apoxie sculpt, then hitting it by hand with a mid grit sponge, followed by a light grit sponge.  The end result is alot of dust but nice smooth surfaces.  I have quite a few pieces remaining to do, hoping to get more time this week to work on it.  What you see lined up here is what I got done in about 1 hour tonight, prior to rinse, which still needs to be done.  

 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Keep up the good work Vince

[Cookie Nomster]

Sanding....continued.  Getting closer.  One useful point worth mentioning:  I noticed that the SEM flex primer takes about 2-3 times the effort to sand down in comparison to the Rustoleum filler primer.  It seems to adhere much more tightly to the material...and it has a totally different unsanded feel than the filler primer.  

 

The only remaining pieces to sand on the body armor are:  Thighs, Abs, Chest Plate, Yoke, and Thermal Det.  Sadly, these are also the biggest pieces.  But I'm hoping they go faster...larger surfaces are easier to sand.  There are alot of imperfections on these pieces too...so I expect at least another 2 hours of sanding before everything is ready to paint.  

 

Had to use flash, as I lost daylight

 

With regard to painting, I'm contemplating gluing the calfs/shins together prior to paint (and adding leg boxes also).  Additionally, I haven't decided if I will glue clips on prior to paint or not.  I need to think about it and come up with a plan.  I'm also going to check some other build threads to see what guys are doing.  I could go either way, and see the benefits of both methods.  If you have any opinions, feel free to weigh in.