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Posted

Great job with both the TD and the bucket.

Yes, it is always difficult to paint everything "perfect" when doing it by hand, but it will not affect centurion standards.

At the end of the day they were all painted quick and by hand in the original trilogy so if you look closely you see the imperfections. Most people won't even notice.

 

you can always use the painters tape to create the outlines you need (if you look at my bucket build you will see what i mean) in order to get those outlines straight.

Overall though, you did a nice job.

Also, as far as the stripes, you can always order the masking templates from trooperbay. They work perfectly.

 

Good Luck :smiley-sw013:

  • Like 2
Posted

I used a similar technique for my trap stripes. What I did differently was to use a thin permanent pen and a flexible straight edge to join the ends. The paint line covers the line but made doing it far easier.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Looks awesome Emma! The wonkyness of the painting is totally screen accurate for the ANH bucket so don't stress about that. As for the tube stripes you can do the template if you want or if you're feeling brave you can try my technique I used for mine. I say skip all that, for now, and use the decals that Walt sent with his kit. If you want to paint them on later you can always peel those off and give it a go!

 

 

Jim - TK50899

Edited by MoSc0ut
  • Like 1
Posted

I forgot to mention I think the TD looks just fine how it is. When it comes to installing the TD clips and caps here is my suggestion:

Clips (do these first, obviously): drill a hole in between the two holes you drill for the screws. This allows for air to escape when pressing on the TD caps. Use a dab of e6000 on the threads of the screws OR get a washers and lock washers for each screw so the nuts don't back off. After the end caps are on....well you know about getting those off again!

Caps: give these a water bath before trying to fit them on. They will expand a bit with the heat and become slightly pliable. They side on much easier then shrink and lock them in place once cooled, no glue needed. Here's how: Heat water up in a pan, big enough to fully immerse one cap, to boiling. Once boiling shut off the heat and/or move the pan off the burner. Drop ONE cap into the hot water for 30-45 seconds (my Walt's caps took at least 45seconds as they are pretty thick). Remove gently with tongs, shake excess water off and press over on end using heavy leather glove or oven mitt. *top tip* lay the hot end cap on the counter, open end facing up and push the tube down onto it. This keeps the end cap from distorting! Repeat. It's a little intimidating doing this the first time but it is actually very easy. Just don't burn yourself and have everything close at hand.

 

 

Jim - TK50899

  • Like 2
Posted

First of all, I am selling a few things.

 

****The gloves from Trooperbay, which were too big on me, the thread for which can be found here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38709-fs-trooperbay-black-latex-gloves/

 

****And the Mic Tips from Walt's Trooper Factory, the thread for which can be found here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38708-fs-wtf-mic-tips/

 

ANYWAY, today I made some progress. First I installed the mic tips. I got premade ones from Trooperbay (because I'm lazy  :P )

 

Here's the comparison. I didn't love the one's from Walt because there was some weird excess plastic behind the actual mold. I don't know if it's normal or not, I just didn't like it.

a3825a0e-d894-473c-afb2-ec1523b529e5_zps

 

After testing which drill bit was the right size on some scrap plastic I drilled two holes in the sockets of the faceplate (there are little indents where the holes should go). I don't remember what exactly the size was, but in my standard drill bit set it was the third smallest, some weird number like 7/50. Hmmm...

fa149bd3-2037-4ad9-8f8c-9eb074c95c0f_zps

 

I slid each mic tip in, backed it with a washer and nut. Here they are installed! Unlike other helmets I have seen, these tips stick out forward. Is that ok? Sometimes the tips point down and out to the sides.

They aren't perfectly even with each other either. AHHHHH.

The left one, facing the helmet, seems to angle down more.

1376902a-5a96-4b4e-aba9-a12199dde3fd_zps

 

Here they are from another perspective.

ee2d3bfe-a594-41e8-a40d-49bd5ec666e2_zps

 

The frown screen, also from Trooperbay, makes a cameo here. I do the frown screen next. I did decide to hold off on the eye lenses though, because I need the empty eye sockets to put bar clamps through for assembly.

 

I cut the frown screen after outlining it in silver sharpie (so it stand's out). I make my cut lines by holding the screen against the back of the teeth and leaving lots of excess room.

 

I use brush-on near-instant-drying glue around the teeth.

4ae2236a-82d2-47ba-b876-9e685ddeddec_zps

I press the cut screen (not the neatest in the world) to the glue, and add more as needed until it sats flat. It's not tight up against each tooth, but it'll be okay right?

ef2bf416-d4e3-4f0c-97ee-8c96657a3309_zps

You can also see the backed mic tips. Did I put the washers where they were supposed to go? I'm a noob about that...

 

Here is the frown mesh from the front. I'm pretty happy with it!  :)

567fb58b-4036-452a-ba63-3ec43ea48dc7_zps

 

 

As you can see, there are some scratches and pencil marks around the teeth. What's the best way to clean it up, if it needs to be cleaned up at all (I think it does!)?

 

And lastly I trimmed the rubber brow. I angled both sides so that the trim ends right before the black outline on each front trap. Is that ok? Or did I *gasp* overtrim again?!

Let me know :)

 

Right side:

b3bd2ebc-5955-431f-a958-250a50a7b53b_zps

 

Left side:

2cfd8235-12a3-46e3-982d-8a59bb76fc26_zps

 

I've use bar clamps and magnets to fix the two sides together. I plan on riveting them together soon, but I am passing it through my Helmet Assembly Mishap thread first.

 

There are lots of updates on my helmet mishap assembly thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38145-helmet-assembly-mishap-help/#entry518130

 

That's it for now! Hopefully, next time assembly!

 

Also, thank you again MoSc0ut for all of your TDet assembly advice! I might try it  :D

  • Like 1
Posted

My mic tips are a little wonky too soon wouldn't worry too much about that. If you look at screen captures of TK's they point in all sorts of directions! The frown screen looks great too.

 

Now for the brow trim.....it's not supposed to be angled with the trap. It should be straight on the ends.

 

Here's mine for reference and a screen used helmet for good measure.

 

53da72ede79467dcda7904ca0ff1b319.jpg

 

4687275d463d6f096095ad8dce5e7d3f.jpg

 

6ae7fdd221c342d6c2dab9cbb4f38d72.jpg

 

6a5884a1f6e1e6d6477f16dbe4a638f8.jpg

 

Sorry!!

 

 

Jim - TK50899

Posted (edited)

Ahhhhh! Well, thank you for telling me. I can try trimming the ends straight but I think then it will come up too short (although the ones in the bottom reference photos you sent look like how mine may come out after re-trimming so I might be ok). I may need to get a new one! Darn.<br><br><br>

I guess I am confused because I have seen other people on here angle the sides and I thought it was acceptable. I guess not! I will fix it ASAP.

Edited by EmlanThane
Posted (edited)

I think you'd be find for basic approval but if you go for higher you'll probably have to replace it.

 

Also that brow trim is over 40 years old so it's probably shorter because it's a bit dried out and has shrunk.

 

Jim - TK50899

Edited by MoSc0ut
  • Like 1
Posted

Also this thread is now "hot" so that's pretty cool! Before I trim the brow, is it a must or would it still pass?

I made it through EI with my brow trim cut at an angle. I wouldn't worry about replacing it. Not sure about centurion though...

 

sent from my phone

  • Like 2
Posted

I made it through EI with my brow trim cut at an angle. I wouldn't worry about replacing it. Not sure about centurion though...

 

sent from my phone

Good to know!

 

 

Jim - TK50899

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks! unfortunately, I already trimmed the brow to make the ends straight, but now it falls too short and looks like the 40-year old helmet. So I'm going to order a new one. I'll do it correctly from the start! <br><br>

Thank you though :)

Posted

Thanks! unfortunately, I already trimmed the brow to make the ends straight, but now it falls too short and looks like the 40-year old helmet. So I'm going to order a new one. I'll do it correctly from the start! <br><br>

Thank you though :)

Dang. Sorry Emma! I didn't mean to steer you wrong.

 

 

Jim - TK50899

Posted

I made it through EI with my brow trim cut at an angle. I wouldn't worry about replacing it. Not sure about centurion though...

 

sent from my phone

 

It doesn't say anything in the CRL about it. Look at the screen caps in the reference galleries. Most of the cuts are straight with one or two being angled. Some the trim pieces are too long and extend a bit past the trap and some are short just like the Dave M helmet pictured here. So... short or long... angled or straight... all are screen accurate. :)

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Dang. Sorry Emma! I didn't mean to steer you wrong.

Jim - TK50899

Hey, no worries! It's not a huge deal. It was kind of falling short even before and I WOULD like it longer. I should have looked at more reference photos to notice that detail! My TD clips came in today too. Tomorrow I'll try to to to the store to get the right screws (do they have to be slotted and round head? Any other specifications)? Building is going to get tricky now that I'm back to school...!

Edited by EmlanThane
  • Like 1
Posted

Hey, no worries! It's not a huge deal. It was kind of falling short even before and I WOULD like it longer. I should have looked at more reference photos to notice that detail! My TD clips came in today too. Tomorrow I'll try to to to the store to get the right screws (do they have to be slotted and round head? Any other specifications)? Building is going to get tricky now that I'm back to school...!

I used brass slotted machine screws, rounded head. Take a look at the pictures on my build. Painted black.

 

 

Jim - TK50899

  • Like 2
Posted

Hey, no worries! It's not a huge deal. It was kind of falling short even before and I WOULD like it longer. I should have looked at more reference photos to notice that detail! My TD clips came in today too. Tomorrow I'll try to to to the store to get the right screws (do they have to be slotted and round head? Any other specifications)? Building is going to get tricky now that I'm back to school...!

 

The original screws were slotted, pan head screws which are typically sheet metal screws. The head size has been determined to be about 5mm. From my research, this translates to a #4 screw (a #6 is close also). Slotted screws are a bit of a rarity these days but the screws in question can usually be found in the stainless steel section of the screw aisle at a good hardware store or online from Grainger or McMaster Carr.

  • Like 2
Posted

The original screws were slotted, pan head screws which are typically sheet metal screws. The head size has been determined to be about 5mm. From my research, this translates to a #4 screw (a #6 is close also). Slotted screws are a bit of a rarity these days but the screws in question can usually be found in the stainless steel section of the screw aisle at a good hardware store or online from Grainger or McMaster Carr.

Ace Hardware has #6 slotted sheet metal screws for cheap cheap.

 

sent from my phone

  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks! unfortunately, I already trimmed the brow to make the ends straight, but now it falls too short and looks like the 40-year old helmet. So I'm going to order a new one. I'll do it correctly from the start! <br><br>

Thank you though :)

 

Do you need extra brow material Emma?  I have some excess supplies if you need them.

 

Can't wait to see your finished build!  Walt makes great kits!

  • Like 3
Posted

Do you need extra brow material Emma?  I have some excess supplies if you need them.

 

Can't wait to see your finished build!  Walt makes great kits!

Thanks! That's very nice of you, but I already ordered another trim from WTF.  :duim:

  • Like 2
Posted

Apologies for my short, unhelpful, reply about the screws. Lord Vader is waiting for his TIE to be finished for Rose City Comic Con on Sept 11th.

 

875240b4e4625c456d5cad825817a313.jpg

 

45987567bd397719d7791ea335c04ce6.jpg

 

Lord Vader (aka, my Wish Kiddo, Bryce) is on the right with his light lightsaber!

 

I'll be more helpful and specific in the future!

 

....We now return to our regularly scheduled program......

 

 

 

Jim - TK50899

  • Like 4
Posted

Apologies for my short, unhelpful, reply about the screws. Lord Vader is waiting for his TIE to be finished for Rose City Comic Con on Sept 11th.

 

875240b4e4625c456d5cad825817a313.jpg

 

45987567bd397719d7791ea335c04ce6.jpg

 

Lord Vader (aka, my Wish Kiddo, Bryce) is on the right with his light lightsaber!

 

I'll be more helpful and specific in the future!

 

....We now return to our regularly scheduled program......

 

 

 

Jim - TK50899

THAT IS AMAZING! DEFINITELY much more important than answering my screw question. That's really incredible of you to do something like that. :D

  • Like 2
Posted

Not meaning to sidetrack your awesome build thread but check out Magic Wheelchair on You Tube. I just started working with Ryan, who you'll see in the videos. This is my first build with them. Way more work than a set of Armor but worth every minute.

 

 

Jim - TK50899

  • Like 2
Posted

Not meaning to sidetrack your awesome build thread but check out Magic Wheelchair on You Tube. I just started working with Ryan, who you'll see in the videos. This is my first build with them. Way more work than a set of Armor but worth every minute.

 

 

Jim - TK50899

No you're not sidetracking lol, you are *enhancing* this thread haha. I will have to check it out! It looks challenging but I am sure that it is worth it!

  • Like 1

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