Emma's First ANH Stunt [WTF] - any help is appreciated!

[pewpewpew[TK]]

I might put the helmet on hold until I can figure out how to properly trim it. I realized that I have the wrong scissors, which is why I found it so clumsy to maneuver them through the plastic! Until I get the right ones and until Pandatrooper and others confirm that I can trim the brow more (and how, because I want to be extra sure) on my other thread dedicated to this issue, I am going to work on some smaller pieces. Updates coming tonight! Perhaps drop box and TD trimming

Good call.  Whenever you're stuck or unsure, move on to something else while you research and gather information.  This serves a few purposes.  One, it distracts you from what's keeping you in a particular area until you can sort it out.  It keeps you busy and maintains progress on the build rather than sitting there scratching your head.  And finally, it helps prevent avoidable and costly mistakes that can be prevented if you just take your time. 

 

It took me a while to realize this needed to be more of a marathon and less of a sprint.  When I got my BBB I actually thought I'd have my kit built in a week.  LOL!  Boy, was I waaaaaayyyy off.

[illusionz_09[TK]]

were all always wayyyyyy off lmao

[MoSc0ut[TK]]

Took me about 6-7 weeks of constantly plugging away at it. There were a few times I had to walk away from it for a couple of days just so I could breathe, do some research and refocus. When I felt it was becoming "not fun" or frustrating that was a good indication to me that maybe a small break was in order.

 

 

Jim - TK50899

[EmlanThane]

were all always wayyyyyy off lmao

off what? 

[MoSc0ut[TK]]

off what?

were all always wayyyyyy off lmao

Speaking of our predictions in how long it would take to assemble our armor. I thought mine would take a week instead it was more like 6-7 weeks.

 

 

Jim - TK50899

[EmlanThane]

Speaking of our predictions in how long it would take to assemble our armor. I thought mine would take a week instead it was more like 6-7 weeks.

 

 

Jim - TK50899

Oh I see haha... Well I do feel a little discouraged right now considering I'm working on the drop boxes and each one is taking me like an hour to get even remotely "perfect"even though they are still crooked-ish. Pictures will be coming soon, but boy is this going to be challenging!

[illusionz_09[TK]]

Oh I see haha... Well I do feel a little discouraged right now considering I'm working on the drop boxes and each one is taking me like an hour to get even remotely "perfect"even though they are still crooked-ish. Pictures will be coming soon, but boy is this going to be challenging!

Just take your time... there is no rush. It's about enjoying it as much as possible.

 

Mine took about 6 months to complete lmfao

[EmlanThane]

Where does everyone get their paint for the TD? I've rough trimmed and am going to get started. Also does E6000 not bond well on painted surfaces, because I'm seeing a lot of people cover the areas where the end caps and plate go with tape so the paint doesn't get on it? I finished the drop boxes- uploading pics now

[pewpewpew[TK]]

I just used the paint I used for my frown. If you have that already just use that.  You can probably pick up Humbrol or Testor brand paints at any crafts or hobby place.  I followed Ukswrath's tutorial so I didn't end up with paint on the ends of the pipe.  The caps slip on and off well enough that I haven't bothered to glue them in place.  Maybe this pic with help:

[MoSc0ut[TK]]

I thinned down the Admiral Grey and shot it through my airbrush so that it matched my traps and tears on my bucket. I have a local hobby store that sells the correct Humbrol colors if you can't find it close or for a reasonable price. Some shops online were charging $12 plus shipping each! Also ignore the dark blue color in the chart above, it is no longer acceptable, French blue is what you want. I think I spent around $7.75 on ALL THREE colors that you need. I can run over there and pick them up and send them to you. Send me a PM if interested and they'll be in the mail Monday. I'd call it an even $10 to cover shipping. I am in Oregon so it'll take about three days or so to get there. 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I used spray paint primer grey as I had it handy then gave it a coat in spray clear. Found that easier as it didn't leave brush marks.

[EmlanThane]

OKAY! So.. thanks for the paint info! I'll get on that! MoSc0ut- I am stopping by my hobby store this weekend because I STILL don't have the right scissors, and if they don't have the paints I'm looking for, I'll check back with you- that's very kind of you.

 

After being very discouraged with my helmet mishap, I decided to take it many steps back, so I did the drop boxes-arguably the simplest pieces, but since I'm still such a beginner it still took me awhile. Hopefully my skills will improve.  Here's what I did: 

 

I used my exacto knife to rough trim each drop box half away from the excess molding (it is the top-most rectangle formation)

 

I cut the corners with my heavy-duty scissors (because I don't have the right ones ahh  ) to make snapping much easier!

 

As you can see, I didn't score high enough up (I have a hard time keeping my scoring straight, and I usually end up making twenty different lines, so better safe then sorry, even if it takes longer.)

 

I went back in with my clumsy scissors and some sandpaper to reduce the outer drop box thickness to about a centimeter. The lines aren't perfectly straight, but hopefully that's ok. 

 

Here I am in the process of trying to make the cut straight:

 

And here are the finished products! The inner drop boxes should be less than a centimeter thick so that they sit more flush right? Because this inner drop box can be trimmed more, right? RIGHT? I'm so paranoid about over trimming now...:

 

This one sits more flush. This inner drop box wiggles a little bit more in this one (the other is a tighter fit) but that's just the molds- there's a little more wiggle room up top. It will actually stay once I glue, but I'm going to hold off on that for now.

 

 

So? Did they come out okay? The top one I need to shave the inner drop box a little more, I think, but I just want confirmation.

 

Now here I've rough trimmed the TD pieces. The WTF kit came with a PVC pipe with the proper dimensions, but I still have to cut that down. 

 

Time to tackle the TD! (and fine-tune the drop boxes!)

[MoSc0ut[TK]]

My drop boxes are, literally, the exact same, as they came from the same molds. Don't glue them together until you attach the elastic to them with the double cap rivets (if you're going the "Centurion ready" route). You can get the rivet sets from justjoseph63 here on the FISD and they're cheap and since you're on the east coast you'll get them fast (he's in Florida). He also does the latex hand guards if you want those too.

 

With the TD you'll find one cap fits much better than the other. I had to do a lot of sanding on one end to get it to fit well, and that only happened after I did a water bath to soften up the ABS so they'd slide on better. I did a pretty extensive section on the TD in my build thread. If you'd like more detailed pictures and measurements let me know and I'll snap a few for you.

 

As for scoring, I always use a pencil to draw my line first, it wipes right off later. Then the trick is to do the first score line fairly lightly. It's much easier to maintain a straight line that way. Then repeat it two to three more times, following the same score line with only a slight increase in pressure each time. I learned this the hard way and have a couple places where my blade "wandered" on me because I was using too much pressure, too early!

 

Jim M.

Edited July 23, 2016 by MoSc0ut

[pewpewpew[TK]]

For cutting I found a flexible metal ruler, (specifically the kind with the cork backing to prevent slipping) and calipers went a long way. The calipers were great for making accurate and consistently spaced marks, while the ruler I mentioned worked well flipped both ways depending on what I was doing. <br>

Here is a link that I found handy for cutting cover strips:

[EmlanThane]

My drop boxes are, literally, the exact same, as they came from the same molds. Don't glue them together until you attach the elastic to them with the double cap rivets (if you're going the "Centurion ready" route). You can get the rivet sets from justjoseph63 here on the FISD and they're cheap and since you're on the east coast you'll get them fast (he's in Florida). He also does the latex hand guards if you want those too.

With the TD you'll find one cap fits much better than the other. I had to do a lot of sanding on one end to get it to fit well, and that only happened after I did a water bath to soften up the ABS so they'd slide on better. I did a pretty extensive section on the TD in my build thread. If you'd like more detailed pictures and measurements let me know and I'll snap a few for you.

As for scoring, I always use a pencil to draw my line first, it wipes right off later. Then the trick is to do the first score line fairly lightly. It's much easier to maintain a straight line that way. Then repeat it two to three more times, following the same score line with only a slight increase in pressure each time. I learned this the hard way and have a couple places where my blade "wandered" on me because I was using too much pressure, too early!

Jim M.

I'm actually planning on getting the centurion kit from Trooperbay when his sites goes back up because it makes that part of it SOO much easier for me. Thanks for the heads up on the TD! I'm going to practice scoring and snapping with simpler things (still). Likely all the buttons and the belt are coming next. But today is TD day!

[pewpewpew[TK]]

You can cut a bit further from where you want to finish, and then sand to your finished mark.

[EmlanThane]

Sorry for the delay in progress, I've been waiting for my scissors to come in. They've just arrived so it's time to start trimming!

 

Also... I may have gotten an already-assembled helmet from Walt.  I am ABSOLUTELY going to build my own, but WTF was doing a run the other day and I caught it at the right time and figured if I was likely to mess up on my own helmet and get the replacement pieces, the full helmet is relatively not that much more so I might as well grab that. So I have two helmets now MoSc0ut- thanks for the paint offer, but you don't have to go out of the way or me, although it's very thoughtful of you. I found the paints and they will also be coming in a few days. I DID trim too much off of my helmet. On the left side of your faceplate you have that little fold/dent- I cut past that thinking it was excess. Hence the "backup helmet." With it here now, however, I am more confident to tackle my own. Plus who doesn't want two helmets? 

Edited July 28, 2016 by EmlanThane

[Cricket[TK]]

Hey Emma, 

Another vertically challenged TK-in-training here.  Just 5'4" and about to begin on my RS kit.  I'll be following your build for sure!  

I think your helmet cuts look fine. I feel your pain when you worried about it, though!  When I was working on my first helmet (ATA), I ended up cutting too much off of my face plate, and had a gap near the ears when putting both pieces together.  Even with the ears on, there was still a gap.  I thought it was a total loss until I realized that ABS paste might fix it.  I used it to build out a new edge.  After some careful sanding/buffing, you can't even see where I over cut now.  

I now do what pewpewpew mentions above: make very conservative cuts and sand the extra off slowly.  

Hang in there!  

[EmlanThane]

Hello!  First of all, I have updates on my helmet assembly mishap, the details of which can be found here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38145-helmet-assembly-mishap-help/ 

 I still need help, but I took another tiny step toward fixing it. Yay?

 

Today was thermal detonator day 1. I trimmed the end caps and the faceplate. Cutting straight lines isn't my forte, so if anyone has any recommendations for doing so, please let me know. None of these pieces are perfect, and I'm trying to tell myself that the originals were far from perfect too. I feel like a total noob, so I'm hoping that all of my questions and high quantity of pictures can help future noobs too. Maybe I won't be a noob one day 

 

I started by measuring a little over 2 cm down from the edge of each end cap with a ruler, then connecting my marks with a tape measure held with magnets to try to make it as straight as possible. My caps run on the thick side because I do not want to trim more until I can see how all the pieces fit together on the PVC pipe.

 

I did a secondary trim with the lexan scissors.

 

I used a level to help me sand the ends as even as possible. THEY ARE NOT PERFECT WHICH MAKES ME SAD but maybe that's ok? I'm not sure. The thickness isn't constant all the way around but I don't think it's super noticeable. Again, they are thicker than normal until I can see how they all fit together.

 

How do they look? 

 

 

 

I trimmed out the faceplate. It is 4.5" long and then about 85 cm wide (yay for mixed units) (following the curve, not just cutting straight across.) I've seen TD dimensions vary slightly. Right now the panel is slightly longer (again, waiting to trim until final fit) but it runs shorter on the acceptable width spectrum.

 

I scored and snapped  the excess on the sides with pliers. The first side went well, the second side went terribly because I kept making new score tracks instead of sticking to one. I ended up using scissors, so it wasn't straight (to be fair, the scoring wasn't straight either. Maybe I should try doing it against a straight edge?)

 

IT'S. NOT. PERFECT. BLARGH. How noticeable is the unevenness? We shall see once assembly begins.

 

Also I sanded the inner drop boxes more. Do they sit flat enough now? 

 

Yay progress. Slow and steady   It might seem trivial to spend so much time on the little things, but again, maybe I'll help others in the future. I am determined to do this, even if it means going slowly, asking a billion questions and taking a billion pictures. It means a lot to me that you all are helping me.

[EmlanThane]

Hey Emma, 

 

Another vertically challenged TK-in-training here.  Just 5'4" and about to begin on my RS kit.  I'll be following your build for sure!  

 

I think your helmet cuts look fine. I feel your pain when you worried about it, though!  When I was working on my first helmet (ATA), I ended up cutting too much off of my face plate, and had a gap near the ears when putting both pieces together.  Even with the ears on, there was still a gap.  I thought it was a total loss until I realized that ABS paste might fix it.  I used it to build out a new edge.  After some careful sanding/buffing, you can't even see where I over cut now.  

 

I now do what pewpewpew mentions above: make very conservative cuts and sand the extra off slowly.  

 

Hang in there!  

Hello fellow short trooper! Good luck on your RS kit! I will make sure to follow you as well  . Do you have a thread for you ATA helmet- I want to check it out and see if it can help me in any way (it probably will!)!

[Cricket[TK]]

Hey Emma

 

Do you have a thread for you ATA helmet- I want to check it out and see if it can help me in any way (it probably will!)!

Sure do, the build is right here.  Hope it helps you.     

[EmlanThane]

I was planning on getting the Trooperbay centurion assembly kit but now I am having second thoughts. What are the advantages and disadvantages of assembling the torso with metal brackets vs elastic and snaps? Iveseen more people do it the latter way. Plus there's no guarantee that the Trooperbay gloves and belt that come with the kit will fit me. Maybe I'm better off getting all of the materials separately on my own and going somewhere else for gloves and a belt that I can find in my size. What do you all think?

[MoSc0ut[TK]]

The advantage to the snap plate method is that you can take the whole "clamshell" torso apart and store it in a smaller box. I personally like the traditional strapping method and having one larger piece but ultimately it's up to what you want. There are many good suppliers for each piece you're looking for. I made my own brackets and loops for the strapping and also my own belt. I did that because I have the equipment and, thanks to my mom teaching me, I can sew!

 

 

Jim - TK50899

[EmlanThane]

I think I might go with the brackets, then. Thanks for all the info! The trooperbay kit seems super handy and I can always sell the gloves or belt here if they don't fit right. Brackets seem sturdier. I am surprised to hear they are also more comfortable! I don't really need to take the torso apart if it can all fit in a Husky or other giant bin. I might feel better knowing that I can't take it apart at all.

 

Today I started working on the teeth. Looking back on it I think I can cut them out even more, but I need some other opinions first!

 

I used the sanding attachment on my dremel on the back of the teeth. I outlined each indent with a pencil and then pressed firmly with my dremel. I didn't overdo it (although I probably could have dremeled more) becauseI didn't want to risk shaving plastic off outside of the teeth area- especially on the smaller teeth. Plus this is only the second time I've ever used a dremel, and the first time I created the Helmet Assembly Mishap of 2016. (I updated it again as of today, too).

 

Here's the back right after I dremeled it. I wanted to try to leave some depth to the teeth, unlike the second helmet I have which was cut out to be much straighter and flatter.

 

And here's the front, immediately post-dremel: 

 

EWWW it's UGLY. Time to fix it up.

 

I went in with round and flat needle files and a small exacto knife/hobby blade (not shown). This took me about an hour. Yup. 60 minutes of trimming carefully. I followed the other helmet next to be for reference to make sure that all of the asymmetry is okay. I tried leaving some depth- return edge on the teeth gaps for lack of a better word.

 

It's hard to get it smooth, especially because the dremel churns up the plastic behind each tooth but doesn't thin it out or weaken it enough to come right up. Behind each tooth still may look kind of rugged.

 

Here's the back after SOOO much sanding:

 

You can see there's extra shavings that are really hard to pick off. I want them to be smoother without losing the depth of the teeth.

 

And the semi-grand reveal: the front! Tada!

 

 

I do have to go back and fix the eyes too. My paint is coming today though and I want to get started on that! Is there a way to get rid of all that ruggedness behind each tooth? Is it ok? did I trim enough? So many questions!! 

[MoSc0ut[TK]]

Looks pretty good! The last thing is that you'll want to square off the corners a bit. I used a hobby knife and the needle files some more until they looked like this:

 

 

Not quite square but a bit less rounded if that makes sense. You're in the ballpark just a little more fine tuning and you'll have it.

 

 

Jim - TK50899