Emma's First ANH Stunt [WTF] - any help is appreciated!

[EmlanThane]

4 hours ago, MaskedVengeance said:

Can you take a photo from an elevation level with that portion of your armor, or from a more natural viewing angle? I know they may be variations in that raised lip, but suspect that your near-ground camera angle is exaggerating the lines.

I don’t have a fresh photo yet but you can see from this above angle that the V-shapes ridge is present. From what I’m gathering from other folks’ comments on this thread is that this is natural for the mold.

 

Edited June 16, 2020 by EmlanThane

[EmlanThane]

Update #1 of the night: I glued the inner cover strip to the front of the left thigh. Because of how I cut the ridges, they did not line up perfectly and there was a gap between them, making the total ridge between the two halves thicker than 20mm, so when I apply the outer cover strip, there will be some ridge visible on either side of the cover strip. If this is not okay for basic approval, I will remove the cover strip and try to close the gap. I also assumed it would work to my advantage, making the front thicker and reducing the need for a larger shim in the back.

 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Coming along nicely

[EmlanThane]

Thank you ukswrath! If I can get a little bit done at a time I know I'll still be on my way.

 

Update #2 of the night, shoulder bridges! I began trimming them from their mold, as you can see below there is a comparison between a trimmed and untrimmed one.

 

 

 

The shoulder bridges have two large tabs, one on each end. I have seen debate concerning the removal of the larger tab that will sit on the back. Part of me doesn't want to trim until I know for sure that the shoulder bridges will even reach over my broad shoulders to begin with. I do not know if the removal of that tab is a requirement or not!

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

Removal of the rear large tabs is recommended for higher levels of approval, but I don’t think it’s absolutely required, depending on fitment. If I ever get there, my plan is to cut them off only once everything is assembled and I know I have the length to spare.

You’re doing great!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Chemi[Staff]]

"As seen in the photos below, there are no large tabs on the rear of the shoulder bridges.  This is not specifically mentioned in the CRL, but removing them is highly recommended if possible."  Remember, if possible... 

[EmlanThane]

Working on some other stuff too right now but just want to make sure the small ridges on either side of the cover strip are okay (for basic!)? Better check now than later... (I should note the extra thickness in front also helps me because I have thicker legs)

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

33 minutes ago, EmlanThane said:

Working on some other stuff too right now but just want to make sure the small ridges on either side of the cover strip are okay (for basic!)? Better check now than later... (I should note the extra thickness in front also helps me because I have thicker legs)

Hi Emma, could you please take a complete photo of the thigh?

 

[EmlanThane]

Hi Emma, could you please take a complete photo of the thigh?
 

Sure, here it is with a rough fit of a cover strip magnetted on

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Those ridges are too small, not noticeable.  If you could not change it, if not, they're  ok, even for high levels .

 

look at this reference photo

 

[EmlanThane]

Those ridges are too small, not noticeable.  If you could not change it, if not, they're  ok, even for high levels .
 
look at this reference photo
 

Thank you, I feel much better about the ridges now. I’ll go ahead and glue!

[EmlanThane]

Thanks to TKSpartan (thank you!), I moved forward gluing the outer cover strip to the front of the left thigh with a little bit more confidence.

 

Then, while that dries, I moved onto the ab plates. The WTF kit comes with all ab buttons and belt rivet covers in the same mold. It even comes with the alternate small ab plate for the sandtrooper (labelled "TD" below).

 

I cut out the large ab plate, following this handy diagram:

 

 

 

The problem is, and I think I've seen this with other WTF kits, is that the plate doesn't lie super flat. You can see the gap below.

 

 

The plan is to hot water bath it and mold it by pressing it onto a flat surface.

 

I got tired so I stopped and will resume when I can come at it with full energy. 

 

 

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

Hot water bath for the win. Also, for higher levels of accuracy, be sure to leave the corners on both those plates crisp at 90 degree angles. It will be tempting to sand them round.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Hi Emma, for the buttons plates consider the following reference, 

 

 

cheers

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

When trimming the small (4 button) plate, as seen in the reference image Mario supplied, note that the corners are also squared off and do not extend beyond the ridges of the raised area that it is mounted to.  It's also worth remembering that the paint does not go all the way to the bottom of the actual button.  Those 2 issues are among the most common we see when reviewing a submission for the higher levels, so it's easier to do it now rather than have to go back and  fix it later!  I would also suggest sanding down the sides of the large plate before gluing and maybe a tiny bit of trimming.

 

                 

 

You are doing a fantastic job by posting up lots of photos... unfortunately, many future troopers fail to do this (or ask questions) before forging ahead and end up having issues to deal with down the road.  Keep up the great work!  

[EmlanThane]

When trimming the small (4 button) plate, as seen in the reference image Mario supplied, note that the corners are also squared off and do not extend beyond the ridges of the raised area that it is mounted to.  It's also worth remembering that the paint does not go all the way to the bottom of the actual button.  Those 2 issues are among the most common we see when reviewing a submission for the higher levels, so it's easier to do it now rather than have to go back and  fix it later!  I would also suggest sanding down the sides of the large plate before gluing and maybe a tiny bit of trimming.
 
                 
 
You are doing a fantastic job by posting up lots of photos... unfortunately, many future troopers fail to do this (or ask questions) before forging ahead and end up having issues to deal with down the road.  Keep up the great work!  

Thank you! And thanks for the tips! I will keep that in mind going forward on trimming both ab plates.

[EmlanThane]

After a day of convincing myself that I CAN continue to do this, I tackled getting the left thigh to fit me width-wise: shim time.

 

I started by cutting back the backs of the thigh so that there was no overlap. Before, as you can see in some previous fitting photos, there is an overlap at the bottom but not at the top. This would make it hard to make a shim run the full length of the thigh. I was reluctant to cut the backs, but the photo is misleading- here I am not bending the thigh all the way around my leg. When I press the thigh in so it fits more snuggly (still comfortably) there was SIGNIFICANT overlap at the bottom, not captured by the photo (where in the photo, I wasn't pressing on the plastic around my leg all the way). A lot had to be cut back.

 

Before:

 

 

After:

 

With the backs sufficiently trimmed back, I took measurements between the two halves at the top and bottom of my leg (indicated by the red lines on the picture above). I used this to draft a trapezoidal shim on the thick square of spare ABS plastic that comes with the WTF kit, whose slant height (math anyone?) was equal to the height of the leg from just above the bottom ridge to a little over the top ( I wanted some spare room to later be able to cut or dremel down and shape the top to look more accurate). I even used the score and snap method succesfully for the first time! I really wanted straight lines here because it mattered to get the measurement right, and I did it! Yay! 

 

 

 

Once the shim was cut, I used some tape just to get a rough idea of how it was going to fit- feels good!

 

 

Then I started by gluing one half of the shim with an inner cover strip. The gap will later be filled with ABS paste and sanded down to blend the shim to the rest of the thigh.

 

 

I will glue the other half tomorrow (which may require a bit more force to move the pieces around) and let dry. A small day for progress, but like I say, if I keep moving forward, I'm still making progress to begin with. 

 

 

Edited June 19, 2020 by EmlanThane

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Nice work on the thigh shimming 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Coming along well

[EmlanThane]

My work was cut short today by a nasty blood blister- I pinched my finger in part of the clamp while securing the other side of the shim. 

 

 

I did need my dad to help me hold the pieces together- it put a little strain on the armor to spread the thigh halves open at the upper opening to accomodate the shim. For anyone doing shims this size in the future, you'll also probably want a second set of hands for this part to get it done easily. 

 

 

I have two questions for tonight before I proceed with some more work.

 

1. How do I prevent E6000 from melting in a hot water bath? Will tape over the cover strips/glue joints do the trick? Is melting inevitable? I have seen people manage hot water baths with E6000 before, and others have their pieces come apart in the water. 

 

 

2. With the brackets for torsos strapping, there is a fixed overlap between the chest and the ab, yes? (unlike with snaps, where you can better control how much the chest overlaps the ab). Therefore, because I am shorter, instead of relying on overlapping the chest with the ab, I have to trim more to get it to fit, because I am using brackets. Below are some proposed trim lines. Keep in mind that in the photo below, the chest and ab overlap MORE than they will when I install the brackets. When I install the brackets, there will be even less overlap, so I will definitely have to trim the cod, and potentially from the top of the chest (cutting out space for my neck).

 

 

 

 

I want to install the front brackets soon so that I will know where the ab will sit on my body. From there I can use that to line up the kidney, and determine how to line up the back. Once I have it all lined up, I can properly measure the length of the kidney shim, and determine how much return edge I need to make using my heat sealing iron at the bottom of the kidney and top of the posterior. I will do a torso fitting in the next few days, but want to install the front brackets first! 

 

Thanks in advance for help with any questions! I always always appreciate how helpful everyone is here. 

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

At least if E-6000 comes apart in boiling water it can be glued back. But I understand that it can withstand some of the heat, and may just soften at first.

As for the cod trimming, have you considered slicing off that whole bottom section, trimming it from the top, then reconnect? I believe Sha Sha did that on her build, but I don’t have the link readily available at this time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[EmlanThane]

At least if E-6000 comes apart in boiling water it can be glued back. But I understand that it can withstand some of the heat, and may just soften at first.

As for the cod trimming, have you considered slicing off that whole bottom section, trimming it from the top, then reconnect? I believe Sha Sha did that on her build, but I don’t have the link readily available at this time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ah I see.... I can always glue back together if needed...hopefully it just softens a bit!

As for slicing the cod, I’m not sure that’ll be entirely necessary. I have seen Sha Sha do it (I was impressed). But I’m 5’6” (I’m not sure how tall Sha Sha is) so a little off the bottom of the cod seems to be fine for me I think- I’ll have to hold the armor up to me again once I know the proper amount of overlap the chest and ab have to be sure though. Then I can make that call!

[PhilBobTheFish]

I've got water bathed parts that were already glued, and have never seen the glue melt in them. Sometimes it would separate because of how much I was shaping the plastic, and the glue just didn't hold. So it shouldn't melt, but if it does separate just reglue.

 

Also, if you want your chest plate to overlap the ab plate more while using bracket, make the strap loops in the front longer. This will allow the chest to hang lower over the ab, and if you really need to shorten the strap then you can. On my armor, the ab isn't really supported by the chest, so the chest just hangs and is actually held up by the bracket loop. So, making the loop longer will give more overlap.

[EmlanThane]

I guess my follow up question would be, how do I acquire these longer elastic loops for the front brackets? I’ll have to see how much overlap the ones I have (from the Trooperbay centurion kit) gives, but if not enough overlap for me, then I’ll have to look elsewhere and have no idea how to acquire them, especially if I don’t have the materials or skills to sew.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

You can just purchase elastic locally or online then when you have the desired length cut and sew the ends together.