Emma's First ANH Stunt [WTF] - any help is appreciated!

[EmlanThane]

2 minutes ago, Cricket said:

The WTF kits are really, really small.  I didn't have to trim anything but flashing on the ab/kidney on the WTF kit I owned.  

Contrast it with an RS kit- I can almost fit one of my kids inside while wearing it!

I didn't know that before I bought it- it works to my advantage height wise but width.... lots of shimming it is! I keep saying "just wait until we get to the THIGHS!"

[EmlanThane]

Tah dah! Unglued the ear, dremeled, re-screwed. Phew! No problem gap this time.

[EmlanThane]

Tube stripe time! After my ear victory, I decided to work on painting.

 

I have the tube stripes decals (from WTF) and the tube stripe painting template (from Trooperbay). I tried the decals, realized I put them on with the bends of the strips going forward instead of backward, sighed, removed them, and used the Trooperbay painting template instead.

 

 

Cleaned up with a toothpick and mineral spirits. It's not perfect and I'm not sure /how/ perfect it needs to be. I also spilled mineral spirits all over myself. I am clumsy.

 

 

I've also begun to outline the ears. I will paint the ear screws white and finish filling in the ears gray (with paint previously used on the helmet so I know the colors match). 

 

Then after I can confirm that it's okay for there to be a gap in the top of the eye lens or not (see above) I will move forward accordingly!

 

 

Update: I painted the ears and ear screws but pictures to come tomorrow once I touch them up after drying. Very exciting- I’m in the helmet home stretch!!!

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

A tip to get your black lines nice and clean is to go over with a black permanent marker, a bit easier to control than a brush at times  

[EmlanThane]

I have been at work putting the finishing touches up on the helmet. Here's what the inside looked like after I finished using glue to install my screw-in-putty-socket eye lenses:

And here's the other lens from the outside:

 

Final painted ear pics still to come, had to do a bit of touching up today. 

 

Trying to figure out which part of the rubber S-trim goes around the helmet- 1 or 2? 

 

I'm guessing 1 but it the rubber naturally curves the other way so it's a bit difficult- looking at other people's threads to try to figure it out too.

[Chemi[Staff]]

15 minutes ago, EmlanThane said:

 

 

 

 

I'm guessing 1 but it the rubber naturally curves the other way so it's a bit difficult- looking at other people's threads to try to figure it out too.

Yes, number 1

[Chemi[Staff]]

33 minutes ago, EmlanThane said:

 

 

 

Looking at the photos of the helmet, I see a break that worries me ...Maybe you can stick a little abs on the inside, to stop the progress of that break. Maybe a piece of cloth soaked in cyanoacrylate or something similar can help too...

[EmlanThane]

On 6/4/2020 at 7:40 PM, Chemi said:

Looking at the photos of the helmet, I see a break that worries me ...Maybe you can stick a little abs on the inside, to stop the progress of that break. Maybe a piece of cloth soaked in cyanoacrylate or something similar can help too...

Oh no!! Good catch- the plastic is very thin there. Do you mean you recommend paste or a thin piece of plastic to brace it? Currently I used a spare thin square of plastic and clamped it with some glue over the break

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 12, 2020 by EmlanThane

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Could use anything for strengthening, strip of plastic, abs paste, 2pack epoxy glue, resin and mat, JB weld, really what every you have handy. Any cracks you really want to get a hold on as soon as you can as they can split further with any pressure and movement. 

[EmlanThane]

Could use anything for strengthening, strip of plastic, abs paste, 2pack epoxy glue, resin and mat, JB weld, really what every you have handy. Any cracks you really want to get a hold on as soon as you can as they can split further with any pressure and movement. 

That sounds so scary! But yes hopefully backing the crack with glue and an abs square should do the trick, plus the rubber S trim will cover it up so it won’t even be visible, but better to be safe than sorry!

[EmlanThane]

I tried ordering gloves online but I could only find as small as a medium..... I’m frustrated because they look so big still!!! I’ll have to find a small SOMEWHERE but it’s so difficult!! If anyone can help me find SMALL gloves for my little baby hands I would be so appreciative because I’m a little angry right now that even the mediums seem to big and wrinkly for my hands.

 

I also am about to order boots and a blaster from Imperial Warfighters, and thats the last of the soft parts I need too which is very exciting.

 

 

Would something like these work? These say small....

[Cricket[TK]]

I swear by Glam Gloves for my itty bitty hands.  They fit well (and are Centurion approvable!).   I once even found a pair on clearance at WalMart for less than a buck!  Look for black gloves, just remove the decorative cuff.  

[PhilBobTheFish]

Here are some size small rubber gloves: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Marigold-Industrial-Rubber-Insulating-Black-Glove-Size-Small-30-mil-flock/322167592127?hash=item4b02af54bf:g:1jIAAMXQlgtS1IsV

The grip on these looks fairly accurate, and have the fingertip texture too.

[EmlanThane]

Thanks for the glove recs! I’ll definitely look into both of these! While we are on the topic of glove recommendations, what am I supposed to wear on my hands when using a hot water bath or a heat gun to mold plastic?

[Cricket[TK]]

Just now, EmlanThane said:

What am I supposed to wear on my hands when using a hot water bath or a heat gun to mold plastic?

For heat gun, I wear leather/cloth work gloves.  You can easily find them at hardware stores.  For hot water, I wear heavy chemical gloves.  They are significantly thicker than typical rubber gloves.  I found mine on eBay.  They provide a decent barrier of protection.  

[EmlanThane]

For heat gun, I wear leather/cloth work gloves.  You can easily find them at hardware stores.  For hot water, I wear heavy chemical gloves.  They are significantly thicker than typical rubber gloves.  I found mine on eBay.  They provide a decent barrier of protection.  

So the medium chemical gloves I just purchased and showed above- will those protect me? Or are they not heavy enough (I get if it’s hard to tell...)? I have cloth work gloves already so those should be fine for heat gun.

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

Can I ask what areas you are looking to use a heat gun on?  The reason being is that some heat guns can reach temperatures of 1400 degrees, and can turn ABS into molten plastic in a matter of seconds.  Many (if not most) times there are easier (not to mention safer) alternatives.  Knowing the pieces you need to alter and seeing a few photos may save you some time and heartache. 

[Cricket[TK]]

If those gloves are indeed 28mil, they should do very well.  My chemical gloves are 14" long, 14mil thick and have served me very well through many, many hot water baths!  

[EmlanThane]

If those gloves are indeed 28mil, they should do very well.  My chemical gloves are 14" long, 14mil thick and have served me very well through many, many hot water baths!  

Alas, they say “not heat resistant...” guess I’ll have to look elsewhere!

[EmlanThane]

Can I ask what areas you are looking to use a heat gun on?  The reason being is that some heat guns can reach temperatures of 1400 degrees, and can turn ABS into molten plastic in a matter of seconds.  Many (if not most) times there are easier (not to mention safer) alternatives.  Knowing the pieces you need to alter and seeing a few photos may save you some time and heartache. 

Mainly to form new return edges on the bottom of the kidney and the top of the posterior- is this something that can be done with hot water? I assumed it would need the strength and precision of a heat gun. Are there alternatives? I would love to hear!

[Cricket[TK]]

Just now, EmlanThane said:

Alas, they say “not heat resistant...” guess I’ll have to look elsewhere!

Some heat will go through them, at least heat goes through on mine a bit.  If you leave your gloved hands close over the steam of a boiling pot o' water for a few minutes, you will feel it!  The heavy rubber provides a protective barrier for a short period of time.  Good enough to dip, shape, etc.  

Here's a link to what I use:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/321787001605

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

Just now, Cricket said:

Some heat will go through them, at least heat goes through on mine a bit.  If you leave your gloved hands close over the steam of a boiling pot o' water for a few minutes, you will feel it!  The heavy rubber provides a protective barrier for a short period of time.  Good enough to dip, shape, etc.  

Here's a link to what I use:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/321787001605

Forgive me, Christine, but I have not read your entire build thread completely.  Do you have an alternative to using a heat gun to form new return edges on those parts?  

[EmlanThane]

1 minute ago, Cricket said:

Some heat will go through them, at least heat goes through on mine a bit.  If you leave your gloved hands close over the steam of a boiling pot o' water for a few minutes, you will feel it!  The heavy rubber provides a protective barrier for a short period of time.  Good enough to dip, shape, etc.  

Here's a link to what I use:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/321787001605

Thank you! Now I just purchased the 30mil gloves recommended above by PhilBobTheFish. I wonder if they could double as protective (if I use them before glueing the hand guards to them)...

 

Otherwise I'll have to get a second pair!

[Cricket[TK]]

1 minute ago, justjoseph63 said:

Forgive me, Christine, but I have not read your entire build thread completely.  

Whaaa?!  Do you mean that with all your free time, you haven't scoured every page of my multiple builds over the past four years?  

 

2 minutes ago, justjoseph63 said:

 Do you have an alternative to using a heat gun to form new return edges on those parts?  

Nope.  Sorry to say, but heat gun + curvy jig turned out to be the cleanest, most efficient way to build a new return (at least for me).  I would never attempt to create a new return with hot water; it won't soften the plastic enough for that level of detail.
 

[EmlanThane]

1 minute ago, Cricket said:

Whaaa?!  Do you mean that with all your free time, you haven't scoured every page of my multiple builds over the past four years?  

 

Nope.  Sorry to say, but heat gun + curvy jig turned out to be the cleanest, most efficient way to build a new return (at least for me).  I would never attempt to create a new return with hot water; it won't soften the plastic enough for that level of detail.
 

So when you say curvy jig.... what sort of setup will I need? Because I'm using brackets so I have no choice but to make a new return edge on the kidney/posterior.