TK-Tom's Not So Excellent Adventure - ANH Stunt TK Build

[TK-Tom[501st]]

Got me a polishing tool for the larger armor pieces - fits my drill, and I will use Novus 123

 

[TK-Tom[501st]]

Next up tomorrow night, I will finish off my torso tweaks. Painting screws white, shortening the back plate to kidney plate elastic, installing sound setup, and replacing chest to back velcro-elastic with snap plates. This is something that I felt like I needed/wanted, to keep the parts closer together. They go on the lower corners of the chest and back. Had it working on my first fitting and I liked how it felt and how I moved around things stayed put.

 

So I made the snap plates to replace velcro.

 

 

[TK-Tom[501st]]

Lastly, I needed to stretch out the stiff as a board Anovos Holster. So I worked it with my hands and left a soda bottle in it for days now.

 

Need to fit my HFX E-11

 

[TK-Tom[501st]]

My fans have been running for ~2 hrs now and still going. Should work great.

 

Thats it for tonight folks. TK-Tom out~

Edited August 9, 2016 by TK-Tom

[kman[TK]]

Almost there... stay on target...

 

Looking good, Tom!

[TK-Tom[501st]]

Light starting to break through at the end of the tunnel~

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Sweet! 

[TK-Tom[501st]]

Helmet pics - just need to mount wireless mic (hoping the fans will not be a problem, being so close to the mic)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Can you tell I am a rookie armor builder? The inside of the bucket just does NOT look professional, but it is functional and fits me.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Looks great to me

[Rob .T .[TK]]

If I were you , I'd lose the foam at the back of the helmet . You will need the helmet to be as far away from your face as possible, to allow air circulation . Foam at the forehead pushes the helmet forwards , which is what you want .

[TK-Tom[501st]]

If I were you , I'd lose the foam at the back of the helmet . You will need the helmet to be as far away from your face as possible, to allow air circulation . Foam at the forehead pushes the helmet forwards , which is what you want .

 

I finally got the bucket to fit me correctly, won't make any changes until I troop a few times to see. But thx for the tip!

[Troopacoola[TK]]

Ive I've been working on my padding as well today. What a nightmare getting it right. I think I may have to tweek it but I'm going to hold off until i do the chin strap

 

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[TK-Tom[501st]]

Yeah, it was a pain for me because I did not have the proper padding to start with, and I tried my hardest to make it work. Regular 1" foam did the trick

[Troopacoola[TK]]

 

This is my set up, I'm still not 100% happy with the padding but I'm going to wait until I install the chin strap before changing anything for now.

 

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[russellr2d2[TK]]

Your helmet looks great inside. Most people paint it black in there so when kids try to perk up under your chin the cannot see much of anything.

 

I would say you have passed the rookie stage of building.

 

 

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[TK-Tom[501st]]

Last of the last, torso bracket screw painting, rivet painting, last snap plates installed. Only thing left is to E6000 those bracket screws to keep them in place, and mount the iCOMM and Aker amp. I got my ext cable to eliminate feedback. Should be submitting pics by week's end!

 

 

 

[TK-Tom[501st]]

Mic mounted in helmet now...

 

 

Edited August 10, 2016 by TK-Tom

[TK-Tom[501st]]

I added some cable holders. Still not really happy with fan system though. Will be making a change. The 2 USB power packs in the back of the helmet, prevent me from looking down, the helmet stays up. I have to hold the helmet if I want to look down. So I will most likely change that setup to 1 USB charger to two fans to lighten the load. If I have to, I will use 1 rechargable 9v battery for two 5v fans, that will make it really light weight

 

Edited August 10, 2016 by TK-Tom

[TK-Tom[501st]]

One other note., I did notice some issues with torso snap plate gluing with E6000. While it did not warp or disfigure my armor, it seemed like there is a very slight bulge on the opposite side of the snap plates. You have to be very very close to see it but it's there. So if you are gonna glue metal to ABS, put down some painters tape between the metal and ABS. Just to be safe. I only noticed this on my butt plate

[ukswrath[Staff]]

One other note., I did notice some issues with torso snap plate gluing with E6000. While it did not warp or disfigure my armor, it seemed like there is a very slight bulge on the opposite side of the snap plates. You have to be very very close to see it but it's there. So if you are gonna glue metal to ABS, put down some painters tape between the metal and ABS. Just to be safe. I only noticed this on my butt plate

 

That's the darnest thing. I've installed 100s of the snap plates with E6000 and have never had this issue. I wonder if it the snaps I use. I use either Fasnap or DOT.

[TK-Tom[501st]]

I use Tandy Line 24

[russellr2d2[TK]]

I've used several brands. It might be the plastic itself. (?)

 

 

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[ukswrath[Staff]]

I've used several brands. It might be the plastic itself. (?)

 

 

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Possible too  

 

Good to see you Russell 

[kman[TK]]

Hmm.  I used E6000 and Tandy Line 24 on Anovos, and didn't notice any warping.  I'll have to take a closer look when I have time; perhaps there is a small amount that was unnoticed?

[TK-Tom[501st]]

Hmm.  I used E6000 and Tandy Line 24 on Anovos, and didn't notice any warping.  I'll have to take a closer look when I have time; perhaps there is a small amount that was unnoticed?

 

Yep, small and unnoticed on mine before I looked specifically for it. Not bad at all, but I know its there. Will try to let the OCD go over this one