Fieldmarshall build

[fieldmarshall]

Henry!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! what a find, i emailed him hopefully its not gone.....  Do you talk to him much?   Finding the stuff is almost as much fun as building it

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Last I heard it's still available for sale. I actually found that listing months ago but I just didn't think about it right away, then it dawned on me. Good luck Chris, I really hope you get your hands on it!

[Lichtbringer]

As it is way overpriced for its condition i wouldn't wonder if its still available.

[fieldmarshall]

The price of the real vintage items will increase and not stop... More interest and more movies equalls more fans.. Most of these relics are lost to time, whats left are carefully controlled...

Believe me finding the real stuff to Copy and preserve is most challenging. 

 

On a different note , ive got another batch of metalmite caps coming off the machine today. Made some slight changes to be even more realistic... These little things get alot of attention... Hell i should have set up to foil and plug them. I had a vintage electronic guy wanting them for his tube amp ... He thought i was crazy making a look alike that doesnt do anything Lmoa . Ive been buying up all the vintage resitors for that cylinder build , those 40, 50s old carbon resitors are getting harder to come buy too.

 

Send me your addresses ill send you one to look at   Brain, Michael,Aaron, Jim ,,,Sean   i get everyone in this threaad lol>>>

[SlyFox740[TK]]

As it is way overpriced for its condition i wouldn't wonder if its still available.

 

 As they say "One man's garbage is another man's treasure" I've seen these M series sherman tank telescopes go from anywhere between $50-$600 and as Chris said the price of these genuine WWII relics will only increase and not stop. They are becoming more rare and valuable each day, they were produced during the war so it's not like they're making them anymore, this is literally the only one I've even seen come up for sale in a long time. Not to mention the fact that they were used on a world famous movie prop. So not only do you have WWII collectors seeking them but also fans of Star Wars. The significance of these antiques are two-fold, especially for people like me who are both WWII enthusiasts AND a huge Star Wars fan! Most if not all of the M19 telescopes are probably now in the hands of collectors or mounted on blasters, unless there is a surplus of them somewhere yet to be discovered they just don't really come up on the market anymore.

 

Plus this particular scope comes with some extra parts from an M48A2 so Chris might actually be able to get it working again, with his skills I wouldn't be surprised at all to be honest. If somebody with Chris' talent buys this scope there's a good chance that person can open it up and clean or replace the lenses inside, then that person will have a real genuine functioning M19 for a good price. The fact that Chris is going to replicate the scope makes it that much more valuable too, not just to him but the entire trooper community! I can see replicas of this scope being used on many E-11s and DL-44s in the future. If you're going to make replicas of anything it's ideal to base them directly off the real thing, and I believe the exterior of this scope is in good condition.

Edited September 13, 2016 by SlyFox740

[SlyFox740[TK]]

The casting on the counter should be back from the foundry in a month or so ,,, the plastic parts I can do here in my shop. I will make a tool to stamp the logo . I don't think I can engrave it ,  I will experiment on some blanks when I get a chance.

 

Any plans on casting that counter socket in Brass? That would go nicely with your brass scopes and would look beautiful on any blaster!

 

Although many people refer to the original Hengstler sockets in the movie as being "Brass", they were not actually brass. Hengstler never made any counter sockets out of brass, they were cast in pot metal and then electroplated in cadmium which has a brass or bronze colored type of finish with hues of blue or red in some spots. Now you could go this route with your replicas for accuracy. But be aware that cadmium plating isn't really done anymore as the chemicals involved in the process is dangerously toxic, unless you can find someone that still does it but cadmium electroplating might even be banned now for all I know. Which makes those pre-war eagle version counters even more unique. However the good news is that electroplating used today called "Zinc Dichromate" accomplishes the same brass/bronze color finish and would look perfect.

 

As for the plastic parts, I wanted to show you this link for inspiration if you haven't already seen it; http://www.stormtrooperblaster.com/hengstler-400-counter.html  His counters are All-Plastic replicas but the parts that are supposed to be made of plastic are super accurate! (The front cover, reset button, and wire connection terminal)

For example I used his Hovi-Mix Mic Tips on my trooper bucket, they are the closest to the real thing that money can buy as the real ones don't exist anymore. And they are actually made of hard plastic like the real thing, not resin like your average mic tip replicas. They have actual open vents on the side like the real thing, and the text "Hovi-Mix Pa2" is clearly legible on them.

Edited September 13, 2016 by SlyFox740

[usaeatt2]

Send me your addresses ill send you one to look at   Brain, Michael,Aaron, Jim ,,,Sean   i get everyone in this threaad lol>>>

 

I hope I'm the "Aaron" you mentioned because I'm very interested to see your replica caps.

I have half a dozen vintage Metalmite caps (loose) and many more in power cell props.

A side-by-side comparison would be awesome!

 

BTW, THANK YOU for properly identifying the metal parts of the counter.

I've been saying pot metal and cadmium since my first Hengstler, but the brass myth STILL persists.

[Lichtbringer]

 

Believe me finding the real stuff to Copy and preserve is most challenging. 

 

Send me your addresses ill send you one to look at   Brain, Michael,Aaron, Jim ,,,Sean   i get everyone in this threaad lol>>>

 

I know, but that one is more or less ruined. And a price should always reflect condition.

 

Sure, a easy decision from my side, as i have several real of each (M19, M38, Singlepoint, Hensoldt Wetzlar, ...) 

 

 

Send us one to compare? I can do that if wished.

 

[Lichtbringer]

 then that person will have a real genuine functioning M19 for a good price.

 

No good price at all - i paid less for each of mine, all in better condition.

 

And that not a long time ago, iirr i bought the last one last year.

[Lichtbringer]

Which makes those pre-war eagle version counters even more unique. 

 

No pre war, it´s just a Bundesadler/federal eagle, post war.

[fieldmarshall]

I hope I'm the "Aaron" you mentioned because I'm very interested to see your replica caps.

I have half a dozen vintage Metalmite caps (loose) and many more in power cell props.

A side-by-side comparison would be awesome!

 

BTW, THANK YOU for properly identifying the metal parts of the counter.

I've been saying pot metal and cadmium since my first Hengstler, but the brass myth STILL persists.

Your the right" Aaron"  ,, ill drop it in the mail . whats your address..    If anyone else wants to try one   ,Brain, Michael,Aaron, Jim ,,,Sean      You can email me direct   chris@warmachineinc.com

I spent alot of time on the contour of the 5mm meatalmite capacitor... I have a pretty good collection of the caps, in all sizes. They are all a little different, even the pic in 83# those tcc are all unique just like my vintage metalmites. They were hand machined, hand assembled and probably hand crimped. In my newest version ( Batch 4) I evolved the ends to reflect this , hopefully they capture the essence of the real ones. ill let you guys judge.  As i refine my manufacturing the prices get better! yeehah

 

SOMEONE FIND ME A M19 LOL/crying

[fieldmarshall]

I thought it looked overpriced. The last several auctions closed around $180. It's a neat sight but for $350 you could buy several replicas and not worry about it getting dropped!

 

 

Jim - TK50899

I started the single point scope, Making a mold for the clear  front , as soon as that is complete i can machine the rest

[fieldmarshall]

Any plans on casting that counter socket in Brass? That would go nicely with your brass scopes and would look beautiful on any blaster!

 

Although many people refer to the original Hengstler sockets in the movie as being "Brass", they were not actually brass. Hengstler never made any counter sockets out of brass, they were cast in pot metal and then electroplated in cadmium which has a brass or bronze colored type of finish with hues of blue or red in some spots. Now you could go this route with your replicas for accuracy. But be aware that cadmium plating isn't really done anymore as the chemicals involved in the process is dangerously toxic, unless you can find someone that still does it but cadmium electroplating might even be banned now for all I know. Which makes those pre-war eagle version counters even more unique. However the good news is that electroplating used today called "Zinc Dichromate" accomplishes the same brass/bronze color finish and would look perfect.

 

As for the plastic parts, I wanted to show you this link for inspiration if you haven't already seen it; http://www.stormtrooperblaster.com/hengstler-400-counter.html  His counters are All-Plastic replicas but the parts that are supposed to be made of plastic are super accurate! (The front cover, reset button, and wire connection terminal)

For example I used his Hovi-Mix Mic Tips on my trooper bucket, they are the closest to the real thing that money can buy as the real ones don't exist anymore. And they are actually made of hard plastic like the real thing, not resin like your average mic tip replicas. They have actual open vents on the side like the real thing, and the text "Hovi-Mix Pa2" is clearly legible on them.

Yes I did see his molded parts,, they are very nice .  I have broken the counter down into 16 parts....The rear housing i sent to be cast, the inner housing will be laser cut and machined. The tumblers turned and machined on the 4th axis , the mechanism will not work but from the front view should look perfect..print a few labels you can have whatever number you want.  The front is being molded with the od radius plastic bezel..  The push button and inner solenoid with printing should be easy.....  The weight should be close to the real thing and hold up very well . Should make a great kit......................................

[SlyFox740[TK]]

I will make a tool to stamp the logo . I don't think I can engrave it ,  I will experiment on some blanks when I get a chance.

 

Will you be making both versions of the Hengstler logos that were used in the film? Just wondering since you're trying to make both versions of the scope that were used.

 

This one below is my personal favorite Hengstler logo

Edited September 14, 2016 by SlyFox740

[fieldmarshall]

I have both kinds,,, i can do them both!  http://www.warmachinepaintball.com/2016/07/30/201607302016073020160730hengstler-counters/

Henry what your thought on the metalmite size  5mm  by 26mm    i think there slightly longer. Scaling them pictures of the radar manifold they could be 26.5mm  ?????

what do you think?

You sent me your address yet i want to send you one?

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Chris It looks like you might actually have all 3 size eagle logos there; Small, Medium, & Large.
The fist picture at the top of your blog shows a medium eagle, then the last photo has the small and large eagle logos.

The smallest one (Mini Eagle) is not accurate and was not used on the blasters as far as I know but it's still better than the H 890 version and still worth some money.

The Medium sized eagle logo is often incorrectly referred to as the "Small eagle" but it is in fact medium of the three that exist. This version is screen accurate.

And the Large eagle with no text should have 2 screws, one above and one below the eagle. The version with one single screw above the eagle only is not accurate.

As far as I know the Medium and Large(2 screws) are both screen accurate Hengstler Counters.

 

Also when casting the front plastic cover, be sure to use one with the "Hengstler 400" text logo on the front. I believe this was done by thermal engraving but it could also be cast right into the part.

Edited September 15, 2016 by SlyFox740

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Chris, I would be honored to receive one of your capacitors. Thank you for offering this chance. I had looked for real ones a while back but no luck. Also I could not find the right smaller vintage resistors/capacitors used on the rear of the power cylinders.

[fieldmarshall]

Chris It looks like you might actually have all 3 size eagle logos there; Small, Medium, & Large.

The fist picture at the top of your blog shows a medium eagle, then the last photo has the small and large eagle logos.

The smallest one (Mini Eagle) is not accurate and was not used on the blasters as far as I know but it's still better than the H 890 version and still worth some money.

The Medium sized eagle logo is often incorrectly referred to as the "Small eagle" but it is in fact medium of the three that exist. This version is screen accurate.

And the Large eagle with no text should have 2 screws, one above and one below the eagle. The version with one single screw above the eagle only is not accurate.

As far as I know the Medium and Large(2 screws) are both screen accurate Hengstler Counters.

 

Also when casting the front plastic cover, be sure to use one with the "Hengstler 400" text logo on the front. I believe this was done by thermal engraving but it could also be cast right into the part.

Getting the color right is going to be the challenge,,,, we paint them black anyway maybe i won't get crucified?  

[fieldmarshall]

Chris, I would be honored to receive one of your capacitors. Thank you for offering this chance. I had looked for real ones a while back but no luck. Also I could not find the right smaller vintage resistors/capacitors used on the rear of the power cylinders.

the real ones were probably not something you bought off the shelf in the 40's... more than likely they were custom for the application. That is why no one has found them in other equipment. I've decided to make them in both sizes 5mm x26 and 26.5 ... Ill have both if someone has a pref.    Did you send your address yet??? send to chris@warmachineinc.com 

[fieldmarshall]

I Guess ill have to make two stamps for that , no worries . The builder can choose , Good catch !Thanks

I do have one of the small ones somewhere,,,.

[SlyFox740[TK]]

For the power cylinders I have been collecting genuine vintage parts for a long time, and yes they are becoming harder and harder to find. I may eventually start a sales thread for power cylinders. If you want to send me one of your capacitor replicas for comparison I would be okay with that, I could and take some comparison photos/measurements for you. I have almost 50 vintage metalmite foil capacitors, they all measure about 26mm x 5.4mm similar to that of Andy's (PlayfulWolfCub) genuine metalmite capacitors. Only his are type: CP30S where as mine are type; CP31N which I can only assume means they just have slightly different electrical capacitance values. Andy and I have had some very extensive conversations on the subject concerning model type and measurements. Here are my Metalmite capacitors

 

I was also able to find real vintage resistors, they measure exactly 9.7mm long x 3.4mm wide just like Andy's (PlayfulWolfCub). Also just like Andy I'm using BS1361 fuses for the end caps, 10BA nuts and bolts, insulated red wire, 3/8" brass tubing for the cylinders themselves. The base plates I'm making are fabricated from an angled piece of scrap metal I found.

Edited September 15, 2016 by SlyFox740

[usaeatt2]

Nice work SlyFox!

 

I know we're all OCD about this stuff, but the difference between 26mm and 26.5mm works out to about the thickness of 5 sheets of copy paper.

Either way, I can live with the custom machined result.

 

I got all wound up with these measurements until a friend pointed out NO ONE has a REAL set of power cylinders.

Photogrammetry is awesome, but there are so many variables that being off by 0.5mm becomes debatable.

 

In the end, as long as your power cylinders are proportional and look the part, nobody can question them...

Unless they produce the legit found item cut from a radar rack...

That thought eased my mind a little.

 

I know...BLASPHEMY!!!

 

Aaron 

[fieldmarshall]

Nice collection! I have a few of the 5.4 like you have . So the one everyone wants are 5mm or 5.4  . The 5.4  looks a little to fat,maybe? bigger than the ones in the radar tube manifold???  I scaled that assembly, you sure they are 5.4

Oh God, the blaster build is intense!!! I hope my armor building days are easier. LOL   

[fieldmarshall]

Nice work SlyFox!

 

I know we're all OCD about this stuff, but the difference between 26mm and 26.5mm works out to about the thickness of 5 sheets of copy paper.

Either way, I can live with the custom machined result.

 

I got all wound up with these measurements until a friend pointed out NO ONE has a REAL set of power cylinders.

Photogrammetry is awesome, but there are so many variables that being off by 0.5mm becomes debatable.

 

In the end, as long as your power cylinders are proportional and look the part, nobody can question them...

Unless they produce the legit found item cut from a radar rack...

That thought eased my mind a little.

 

I know...BLASPHEMY!!!

 

Aaron 

You are so right about the two or three thousandths ,, in the machine world + - .003 to .005 thou is normal tolerances..   I am enjoying what I'm hearing from all over the world about this build. I just want to make nice stuff that provides fun and enjoyment...  

 

I appreciate the time everyone across the planet has spent with me on these builds...   Aaron I believe there is a lot of people that would love to find that radar rack... If i found one i would build a power supply and  try to build a tube guitar amp out of it...LMAO

(then cut it up for my e11)

[usaeatt2]

If i found one i would build a power supply and try to build a tube guitar amp out of it...LMAO

(then cut it up for my e11)

I'm picturing the guitar and giant speaker scene from Back to the Future...

On the road, or I'd post the picture...anybody?