EastCoastStoneCutter[TK] Posted June 27, 2016 Report Posted June 27, 2016 (edited) Update 18 Feb 2017: I'm wayyy overdue in taskers I set for myself after I finished my costume. Below are my lessons learned (in no particular order). My 1st full trooping is next week so I might have more to add. If you are interested in the rest of my build, it's below. Any questions, i'm happy to help fellow troopers! Sand/rough up latex hand guards before using Locktite Gel to glue to rubber gloves. This worked enough, but still need to find something better. The liquid/running Home Depot super glue did not work. Use rubber washer between snaps and elastic; less stress and tearing from donning on and off. Do not take off shoes with your other shoe as it will scuff and cause black marks; although they may be able to be washed out with some Shout. Have somebody help measure cod to ab nylon connection; when I first did it, it was too short and pulled cod down, pulling the kidney and back armor down with it. Give some small space/leeway with the canvas belt to ab snap; mine is very tight and sometimes pops out because I did not compensate for snap spacing with ab. Sand the metal that comes into contact with canvas belt and kidney/cod plate to prevent scratching. Use soft part of Velcro (loop, not hook part) and glue to metal for thermal detonator to also prevent scratching of armor. Figure out better shoulder snapping method to decrease stress on the connection from shoulder bells to shoulder straps. When making strapping in general (nylon, elastic, etc.) leave 0.75 inches from each end of snaps for proper finger grips to remove snaps when donning off armor. I only left 0.50 inches on some and I have limited finger grip to unsnap. For thigh to leather belt connection use 2 inch elastic rather than 1 inch; stronger and would probably stay put better rather than rotate as I walked. When donning helmet, try to push neck seal towards neck so it doesn't get caught with helmet. Always measure multiple times before cutting. Test fit location of snaps, nylon, ABS pieces, etc and mark with pencil before applying glue to confirm location of glue; once you start gluing, some odd angles tend to move pieces away from intended location. Buy stronger magnets like neodymium. Circular basic magnets from Home Depot did OK, but some places really required stronger pressure. Always shake paint before applying; if not, lighter color of paint tends to surface and you're left with semi-transparent white paint where thick white paint should be. My BBB day was last Wednesday, but with travel, just started opening it today! Uber excited after having unboxed it. I feel extremely lucky because most folks ordered their armor then picked up other parts of their costume while waiting for the armor; my situation is the opposite where I was able to obtain the armor (less than two weeks from ordering nonetheless!) and then start picking up other parts. I guess it was just timing cause AP had somebody's armor ready, but they did not have all the funds available at the time, whereas I had the funds ready. Not rubbing it in, just very grateful for the timing. Due to not having any supplies like glue, lexan scissors, proper clamps, etc, I'm going to start the helmet today. Anyways, photos attached; sorry my phone's camera lens is somehow forever smudged, so the photos are not crystal clear. Edited February 18, 2017 by EastCoastStoneCutter 1 Quote
Strength Posted June 27, 2016 Report Posted June 27, 2016 Oh, you're gonna hanve a fun journey!! I was basically in the same boat. You'll want to talk to your fellow Garrison members. Especially about armor parties, as people have equipment so you don't have to purchase them. Things like belt sanders. You're definitely gonna want to get some scissors that can cut through plastic. Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk Quote
tkrestonva[TK] Posted June 27, 2016 Report Posted June 27, 2016 Nice that the new AP comes completely pretrimmed. That will save you a lot of work. Quote
EastCoastStoneCutter[TK] Posted June 27, 2016 Author Report Posted June 27, 2016 Obtaining the armor pre-trimmed was definitely worth it IMO. BTW, how picky should I be with the decals? I realized putting on stickers/decals is an art and every time I try to redo it, it looks worse! Dang bubbles... Also, my head is big, so I had to rotate the bucket 90 degrees to get my head inside. This is without putting the trim Finished as much of the helmet as I could; will search for paint, tools, and other parts of the costume the rest of today. Quote
tkrestonva[TK] Posted June 27, 2016 Report Posted June 27, 2016 If you are going for ANH Stunt, it is better to hand paint the details. If you must use stickers, just do the best you can - but I would try again with the one in the photo. That 90 degree turn is called the side twist, and it's completely screen-accurate. Only an oversized helmet (or an undersized head) will give you room enough to put it straight on. 1 Quote
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted June 27, 2016 Report Posted June 27, 2016 AP is one of the fastest makers in the scene. Good work! and looks great. 1 Quote
illusionz_09[TK] Posted June 28, 2016 Report Posted June 28, 2016 If you are going for ANH Stunt, it is better to hand paint the details. If you must use stickers, just do the best you can - but I would try again with the one in the photo. That 90 degree turn is called the side twist, and it's completely screen-accurate. Only an oversized helmet (or an undersized head) will give you room enough to put it straight on. EXACTLY!!! to all points here... Quote
zv288bot[TK] Posted June 28, 2016 Report Posted June 28, 2016 Obtaining the armor pre-trimmed was definitely worth it IMO. BTW, how picky should I be with the decals? I realized putting on stickers/decals is an art and every time I try to redo it, it looks worse! Dang bubbles... You'll be able to get most if not all of the air bubbles out if you make/use a soap water solution before applying the decals. It will allow you to push the bubbles out and position/reposition the decal till you have it where you want it. There is a video on trooperbay that shows the process as well. Good luck! 1 Quote
pewpewpew[TK] Posted June 30, 2016 Report Posted June 30, 2016 Obtaining the armor pre-trimmed was definitely worth it IMO. BTW, how picky should I be with the decals? I realized putting on stickers/decals is an art and every time I try to redo it, it looks worse! Dang bubbles... You'll be able to get most if not all of the air bubbles out if you make/use a soap water solution before applying the decals. It will allow you to push the bubbles out and position/reposition the decal till you have it where you want it. There is a video on trooperbay that shows the process as well. Good luck! Here ya go: https://youtu.be/jEShdlB0opw 1 Quote
EastCoastStoneCutter[TK] Posted June 30, 2016 Author Report Posted June 30, 2016 Thanks for all the info on the decals everyone! Unfortunately due to my first attempt, I do not want to rip it off and stretch the decals further. I will either try my luck during submission or paint them once everything is done. Separate questions: 1.) For the TD, is it safe to assume the gray paint is humbrol #5 gray, just like the traps, frown? 2.) In terms of clamps for all the gluing would c-clamps work just as well as the spring clamps I see everyone else using? Reason being I already have about 10 c-clamps available. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk 1 Quote
pewpewpew[TK] Posted July 1, 2016 Report Posted July 1, 2016 C-clamps will work, but they will move around more when you tighten them. The spring clamps are pretty cheap. I picked up a bag of 22 assorted sizes, HDX brand from Home Depot for $8. Do you work around an office? Grab a handful of the black folding binder clips. Quote
illusionz_09[TK] Posted July 6, 2016 Report Posted July 6, 2016 (edited) 1.) For the TD, is it safe to assume the gray paint is humbrol #5 gray, just like the traps, frown? Any gray will work. I bought the pipe from the home improvement store gray already so i didn't have to paint it. You can definitely use your humbrol paint tho Edited July 6, 2016 by illusionz_09 1 Quote
EastCoastStoneCutter[TK] Posted July 7, 2016 Author Report Posted July 7, 2016 @pewpewpew found the pack of 22 clamps at home depot, good deal. I initially tested using office binder clamps but they have limited accessibility. @illusionz_09 good thing as my gray spray can should be coming in the mail soon. I've started fit checking the shoulder bells and arm. Will start gluing those tomorrow. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk Quote
68Brick[TK] Posted July 7, 2016 Report Posted July 7, 2016 Welcome Ronald! You'll be very happy with your AP kit. The pre-trimmed kit is a huge time saver, and is a little less daunting for new builders. The Humbrol grey paint is the correct color. As for your decals, I'd recommend hand painting them, especially if you seek higher levels of approval (EI or Cent). Have fun & keep those blurry pics coming! Quote
EastCoastStoneCutter[TK] Posted July 11, 2016 Author Report Posted July 11, 2016 Finally started gluing and cutting! Will showcase some of the armor tomorrow when it's done drying, but hoping e6000, clamps, and painters tape keep the armor's form as it wasn't bending/forming easily with hot water like I thought it would. I may have to go the heat gun route...but trying not to. In terms of the TD, I did get Home Depot to cut down the PVC by 0.5" for free, but the guy had to use a hacksaw and had no vise grip or anything to really hold it down so it's not perfectly round. I tried sanding the side he cut to make it more level, then sanded the rest before painting. Finished product... a little over 7.5" probably closer to 7.6", but that's the best I can do with the tools I have. Plan to drill holes for the screws to attach the metal clips, then glue one end cap and leave one end cap unglued or attached by string or magnets or something to use it for storage during trooping... Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted July 11, 2016 Report Posted July 11, 2016 (edited) Looking good, I glued some elastic and Velcro to both end caps so I could keep things inside Edited July 11, 2016 by gmrhodes13 3 Quote
pewpewpew[TK] Posted July 11, 2016 Report Posted July 11, 2016 Looking good, I glued some elastic and Velcro to both end caps so I could keep things inside Hey Q, can you elaborate on how this set up works a bit for us? Quote
supernaut11[TK] Posted July 11, 2016 Report Posted July 11, 2016 Good luck with your build! Enjoy it. Quote
EastCoastStoneCutter[TK] Posted July 14, 2016 Author Report Posted July 14, 2016 Q, that elastic velcro looks interesting. Does that strip limit what you can put in there? That's where i'm thinking gluing one end and then making a small magnet or velcro at the other end maximizes the space in there. Then again, don't plan to put much in there anyways. Eddie, thanks! I'm really enjoying this project (for now =P) and working with my hands after sitting at my computer/cubicle all day. Just finished one bicep. I did the cover strips inside and out, which I hope will strengthen the bond as my current forearms aren't aligning well and i'm relying on the cover strips. I should have 2 forearms glued soon...at this rate i should be done by Sep/Oct =P Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted July 14, 2016 Report Posted July 14, 2016 Q, that elastic velcro looks interesting. Does that strip limit what you can put in there? That's where i'm thinking gluing one end and then making a small magnet or velcro at the other end maximizes the space in there. Then again, don't plan to put much in there anyways.There is enough room to take off one end and move it to the side, the elsastic has enough give and holds well. I only used it a few times when I have been at a troop without a wrangler, just pop my keys in there. The angled abs pieces are glued inside the end caps, then a piece of elastic glued to one of them with Velcro attached to the other end, glue the opposite Velcro to the other angled abs and done. At least using the Velcro you can take the end off completely if you need too. 1 Quote
EastCoastStoneCutter[TK] Posted July 23, 2016 Author Report Posted July 23, 2016 (edited) Long overdue update, although I think I jumped the gun on the biceps: I finished gluing both biceps and forearms; forearms fit nice and snug so i think i'm good there; however, the biceps have decent space near the top, almost 1 inch of space. How much space should I leave for my bicep since it's going to be covered by the should bells? Do I need to redo the biceps and get it more fitted to my biceps? I'm about to start the thigh armor, but have the same concern if I need to have it more fit to my legs. If so, i've got alot of trimming to do... Also when I do the thigh armor, do I align the bottom or top before gluing? At this point i'm reaching for just getting into 501st by Oct, but still planning to go to Centurion. Side note, the Husky 50 gal mobile chest is ginormous-takes up ~85% of my Santa Fe's trunk, but found it on sale for $54 at Home Depot! Edited July 23, 2016 by EastCoastStoneCutter Quote
pewpewpew[TK] Posted July 23, 2016 Report Posted July 23, 2016 You can just start lifting mad weights bro! If you put foam padding in the biceps it should help centre them up around your arms. Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted July 23, 2016 Report Posted July 23, 2016 I wouldn't trim any of your pieces smaller than the ridge size for cover strips, I use some foam in my biceps and forearms, my thighs are a little loose but the elastic strapping I find helps that. 1 Quote
EastCoastStoneCutter[TK] Posted July 23, 2016 Author Report Posted July 23, 2016 Ha-ha yes, @pewpewpew, I was considering using the iron gym again daily. Will go the foam padding route. @gmrhodes13 I'll use the foam and elastic strapping. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk Quote
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