eqdizzle[TK] Posted September 1, 2016 Author Report Posted September 1, 2016 (edited) It's definitely a thing! I have a plan of attack now...will be cleaning up edges, cutting shim strips, and getting sludge ready...! Edited October 26, 2017 by eqdizzle 5 Quote
illusionz_09[TK] Posted September 1, 2016 Report Posted September 1, 2016 Looks amazing, can't wait to see this completed... Quote
eqdizzle[TK] Posted September 5, 2016 Author Report Posted September 5, 2016 (edited) On 9/3/2016 at 1:16 PM, DasViGeorie said: What's talons kit cost? Send Walt a PM! I got the flashing trimmed off the pieces this weekend using a Dremel with a sanding drum...just like butta! After sizing up a few of the pieces, I cut interior shims for a few of the pieces out of thin plastic sign material. Size up the shim to be the exact length to fit inside the edge of the armor piece. It should end just at the beginning of the return edge, otherwise you'll have issues getting a flat and tight fit. Scratch up the inside of the armor piece and the entire shim piece with 60 Grit (or other coarse grit) sandpaper to increase surface area for adhesion. Wipe all surfaces with rubbing alcohol and let dry for a few minutes. Test fit your shim again. If good, proceed, if not, trim accordingly until you have a clean fit. Spread CA glue liberally on one half of the shim. Slide it into place to spread out the glue a bit, and hold in place with clamps. Leave about half of the edge exposed to be used as the join for the other half of the armor. Let it cure for a while. Work on another piece of armor!! Once you're ready to do the other side, check your shims to make sure that the entire piece is securely held on the armor. If this is secure, proceed, otherwise spot glue and clamp until it is locked in place. Make sure the other side is sanded on the gluing surface and wiped with rubbing alcohol. Liberally glue the remaining shim surface and slide into place. Clamp the top and bottom near the ends and hold the pieces together with some pressure using your fingers. BE SURE TO MOVE YOUR HANDS OCCASIONALLY SO YOU DON'T GLUE YOURSELF TO THE ARMOR!!! Hold for a few minutes until this is set firmly. Let it cure for a while longer, and come back to it. Finally, test fit the other side. If you hear popping when you bend it shut, use a heat gun (from the inside!!!) to soften the already joined shim before bending into place. Repeat the steps above to finish gluing your shims. Once this is cured, you're ready for SLUDGE!! Edited October 26, 2017 by eqdizzle 1 Quote
Sentry71[TK] Posted September 8, 2016 Report Posted September 8, 2016 Any special reason for using CA glue vs E6000? 1 Quote
illusionz_09[TK] Posted September 8, 2016 Report Posted September 8, 2016 Any special reason for using CA glue vs E6000? Speed (cure time) Quote
eqdizzle[TK] Posted September 8, 2016 Author Report Posted September 8, 2016 Exactly...cure time, strength of bond, a lot less noxious smell, ETC. I used Zap-A-Gap CA glue and Zip Kicker on my Clone, and this is a similar build method. I hope to have some more time to work on this over the weekend...! Quote
eqdizzle[TK] Posted September 11, 2016 Author Report Posted September 11, 2016 (edited) A tiny bit of work today: Did some sludging of joints today. I like to start with Tape on either side of the joint so I can be messy, without being messy!! Apply the sludge into the crevice And peel away the evidence that you weren't careful!!! I also had to shim my biceps out a touch. This will need to be filled to be smooth. Cutting a small strip of shim material (about same thickness of the armor), overhanging edges to create return edges. Scratch and CA glue, clamp and dry! Stay tuned!!! Edited October 26, 2017 by eqdizzle 1 Quote
Frat-man-du[TK] Posted September 14, 2016 Report Posted September 14, 2016 Progress is awesome!! cant wait to see more... 1 Quote
eqdizzle[TK] Posted September 18, 2016 Author Report Posted September 18, 2016 Thighs with 1st application of sludge. Shims on greaves sludged bicep 1 Quote
eqdizzle[TK] Posted September 18, 2016 Author Report Posted September 18, 2016 (edited) Sanding the sludge and applying the finish putty. And then more sanding!! Same thing on the left bicep Getting the ab ready to go. Trying to get this sized first since everything else lays on top of it. In looking at references, there is a notch line vertically where the segment ends, so I will be able to hide the connection and still be accurate. Edited October 26, 2017 by eqdizzle 2 Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted September 19, 2016 Report Posted September 19, 2016 Looking good Eric! Quote
illusionz_09[TK] Posted September 22, 2016 Report Posted September 22, 2016 Looking good, it seems like you are right on track! Quote
eqdizzle[TK] Posted October 4, 2016 Author Report Posted October 4, 2016 (edited) Some painting over the weekend. I started with WHITE primer so no other colors show through when the armor gets scratched. This was followed up with two light coats of GLOSS WHITE. I'll let this dry for some days, hit it with 0000 steel wool, and then get at least 2 more good coats over the top. This armor needs a sheen to it to look right..!! Some work on the ammo belt portion of the right thigh. Kind of a pain to get it lined up correctly. This will need to be filled to look seamless by the time everything is done. Speaking of seamless... The primer will show off EVERY flaw in your work. Back to sanding!!! Edited October 26, 2017 by eqdizzle Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted October 11, 2016 Report Posted October 11, 2016 Does the kit come with drop boxes and TD parts? Not seeing them there... Quote
eqdizzle[TK] Posted October 15, 2016 Author Report Posted October 15, 2016 I'm waiting on the TD and the drop boxes....but yes it's supposed to come with those..! 2 Quote
illusionz_09[TK] Posted October 18, 2016 Report Posted October 18, 2016 love it! nice job so far Quote
surfingdragon[TK] Posted October 20, 2016 Report Posted October 20, 2016 Sweet good job trooper! Quote
eqdizzle[TK] Posted December 3, 2016 Author Report Posted December 3, 2016 (edited) I ended up re-sizing the forearms since they were REALLY big on my arms and didn't look like how the Rebs TKs wear theirs. That led to the issue where the back end didn't line up correctly. I added an inner shim and glued additional material on top to raise it to near the level of the original material. continuing on the other arm Cutting down, starting with scissors, then to shaping with a dremel, and finish sanding. Next step will be sludging and sanding to make seamless...! Edited October 26, 2017 by eqdizzle Quote
eqdizzle[TK] Posted December 3, 2016 Author Report Posted December 3, 2016 (edited) Did some weathering on the chest and back. Again, for those playing the home game, I used the following method: ***WAIT FOR YOUR GLOSS WHITE TO FULLY CURE (THE LONGER THE BETTER!!) BEFORE WEATHERING!!** spritz the armor with a gloss gray (I used Rustoleum Smoke Grey) from 3-4', hitting un-evenly. Use short, less-than-a-second bursts let the paint BEGIN to dry. depending on temperature, maybe an hour or less. DO NOT LET THIS CURE!! wet or dry sand with 1000 grit. you're essentially scraping off the paint. the paint specs should be organic and non-uniform or patterned, so vary your rubs and places where you're sanding as you go. finish your sanding with 0000 steel wool, especially in the larger surfaces. rinse and let dry. The steel wool will knock some of the shine off the gloss paint. We'll restore that later...! Edited October 26, 2017 by eqdizzle Quote
eqdizzle[TK] Posted December 3, 2016 Author Report Posted December 3, 2016 (edited) After sanding. Nice and subtle orange-peel looking weathering like you see on the show. Easy squeezy!! And it looks like I need to rake...!! Edited October 26, 2017 by eqdizzle 2 Quote
eqdizzle[TK] Posted December 5, 2016 Author Report Posted December 5, 2016 (edited) Gloss white on the cod and bells Edited October 26, 2017 by eqdizzle 2 Quote
eqdizzle[TK] Posted December 15, 2016 Author Report Posted December 15, 2016 (edited) E-11 getting there... Edited October 26, 2017 by eqdizzle 3 Quote
ramey[TK] Posted December 30, 2016 Report Posted December 30, 2016 Eric, I have this kit from Jim too. Just been waiting for the holidays to wind down to really get started. Quick noob question... would you mind if I ask how you make your sludge? I'm very familiar with bondo but can see how that will eventually crack with this material. That said I'm not particularly hard on my suits so maybe bondo would be ok? Thanks, Ramey 1 Quote
eqdizzle[TK] Posted December 30, 2016 Author Report Posted December 30, 2016 Eric, I have this kit from Jim too. Just been waiting for the holidays to wind down to really get started. Quick noob question... would you mind if I ask how you make your sludge? I'm very familiar with bondo but can see how that will eventually crack with this material. That said I'm not particularly hard on my suits so maybe bondo would be ok? Thanks, Ramey sludge is merely trimmings from your armor in a jar of acetone. Since it's essentially the same material, it will expand/contract/flex exactly like the armor. Why not to use Bondo (except as a top coat??) ? Think about how Bondo recommends that you remove the dried bondo off the rubber spreaders...bend them a bit and the whole thing falls off. Bondo is GREAT on items that don't get flexed: Cars, our buckets, etc. On seamless armor...be prepared to fix and replace a LOT. Bondo is definitely faster initially...and I'm using it in top coats. My first drops into the seamless parts is sludge, however....! 1 Quote
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