Brandalfthegrey[TK] Posted June 15, 2016 Author Report Posted June 15, 2016 I had ordered some parts from Shapeways. http://www.shapeways.com/shops/dsy-e-11 I ordered the front sight, ejector port guard, weldment butt cap, rear sight assembly and front nozzle. That ran me $52. I cut off the rear butt near the speaker and then I glued on my Shapeways parts and then coated everything with some Metallic Rustoleum Titanium Silver Paint and primer. Quote
Brandalfthegrey[TK] Posted June 21, 2016 Author Report Posted June 21, 2016 Next I coated everything (including the other Disney EE-3 and DL-44 blasters) with Rustoleum Satin Black Paint and Primer: Quote
Brandalfthegrey[TK] Posted June 21, 2016 Author Report Posted June 21, 2016 I had ordered a Doopy Doos Hasbro conversion kit (http://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e11-hasbro-blaster-conversion-skin-kit-mk2-2636-p.asp) but, it took a while to come in. I had installed my Shapeways parts and wanted everything painted, so I had a usable blaster for trooping. When it finally arrived, I started on cutting away the original folding stock, magazine, and front of the scope: Quote
Brandalfthegrey[TK] Posted June 21, 2016 Author Report Posted June 21, 2016 I gave the Hengstler counter and scope a base coat of Bronze metallic paint before giving it a top coat of the black. I ran into a placement issue for the Counter. It blocked the switch for the stun and blast mode. If I glued it on, It’d also block me from the battery hatch. So, for now, I just used Velcro to hold it on. Then, I decided to move the switch down to above the molded safety switch. I filled the old hole with green stuff. Quote
Brandalfthegrey[TK] Posted June 21, 2016 Author Report Posted June 21, 2016 I ordered and replaced the Doopy magazine with the Gazmosis magazine. While I had it apart, I drilled the bottom row of holes on the left side of the blaster and removed that T-track. I added on the 2 other T-tracks from the Doopydoo kit that mostly covers the original holes. I also drilled out the holes on the Doopy folding stock. I inserted a small length of all thread inside the channel. I cut off some length of an old coiled car charger cable and drilled some small holes with my dremel into the back of the power cylinders and Hengstler counter. I also took the pin of an aluminum pop rivet and shaped it into the pip for the front sight. I cut a larger opening for the rear sight so it was moved back about a ½ inch and filled the gap with green stuff. More repaint touch up. Here I took a metal slot cover from the back of a computer tower and cut it down to size and painted it to act as my scope rail: Quote
Brandalfthegrey[TK] Posted June 21, 2016 Author Report Posted June 21, 2016 I ordered a birding monocular – 8 x 20mm for the scope. In the meantime, I drilled out the front scope hole so that you could see straight through it. When it arrived, I unscrewed and installed the large end into the rear of the scope – perfect fit! The front I had some trouble with. When unscrewed, it was too large to place inside. So, I cut it apart and took one of the lenses out and placed it on the front of the scope. It looked great, but, when you look in the scope, the image was upside down and blurry. Argh! Quote
Brandalfthegrey[TK] Posted June 21, 2016 Author Report Posted June 21, 2016 So, I ordered another birding monocular. This time I got one with a red lens. I swapped the large end out no problem. With the small end, I removed the previously installed single lens at the front. Then, I unscrewed the bottom and cut off about a ¼” of the piece with my dremel. I glued it in at an angle (so you could see straight through) and it seemed to work ok. Now the image was nice and clear, but still flipped upside down. I liked the look of the front lens being visible on the front of the scope instead of inside it, so I took that old lens and tried it out and amazingly, it flipped the image right side up while maintaining the clarity! Quote
Brandalfthegrey[TK] Posted June 21, 2016 Author Report Posted June 21, 2016 Now, I just need to do some touchup on the ejector port and weathering, then, I’ll hit it with a clear coat. I’m considering of eventually adding in a more accurate trigger, action bolt, spring, and flash guard. I'm also thinking of possibly adding in the yoke part of the folding stock. But it doesnt quite line up with the molded hinge bolts. I'd have to grind them out and fill them, or cut the yoke in half so I could line it up properly and fill the gap between it and the front folding stock piece. For now, it’ll get me through some more troops and the kids love the lights and sounds and looking through the scope to aim at their friends… and me! Quote
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