Alay's ANH Stunt build (AP, first build)

[Troopacoola[TK]]

Ate you hearing any noise from the fans over the mic with them being so close together?

Mine are pretty much in the same position ( if not closer to the mic ) and there's no issue with them coming through the Aker.

 

Marc

[JAYJAYN]

Great work and definitely a resource for us smaller troopers, I was wondering before I do the same, when u cut your kidney plate and added the corner notches did those need to have a return edge for centurion or it only matters on the top and bottom of the kidney?

Edited October 26, 2016 by JAYJAYN

[Alay[TK]]

Great work and definitely a resource for us smaller troopers, I was wondering before I do the same, when u cut your kidney plate and added the corner notches did those need to have a return edge for centurion or it only matters on the top and bottom of the kidney?

Hey Jay Jay,

 

There's no return edge on them anymore, I just cut out the same sized slot again on the new armor.

There are no explicit return edge requirements for any of the armor pieces at Centurion (in fact, the only return-edge related bit is that the wrists not have them!) so you do not need them.

 

That said, return edges can be desirable and add the look of "bulk" to the armor. If you have a heating iron and you're brave you can probably recreate them fairly easily.

 

Here's some pictures of mine

 

[Alay[TK]]

Today we'll be building a ANH Stunt TK belt. This one is not mine, but rather my husband's, as we're nearing completion of his AP build.

 

Part 1: Belt Face & Holster

 

First thing you'll want to do is cut and trim your belt face. The corners need to be angled off at 45 degrees.

 

Once it's cut as expected, I find the middle point of the belt face, and mark/drill a hole. Then on the left and right sides find the center and go about 3/4" from the last "bump". Mark/drill there.

 

Next, find the center of the canvas belt and mark it. Line up the center of the belt with the hole you drilled, then mark with pencil on the other two holes.

 

Burn a hole in each location (or use a puncher... I prefer to burn them.)

 

Finally, slide a female chicago screw (1/4", I use Tandy brand) through the belt face and make sure it fits nicely through the hole.

 

 

Put all 3 female screws in, then glue the caps on the belt face. Make sure to get a nice glob of glue ontop of the screw head.

 

 

On the holster, please note I'm using an AP holster, so sizes may be slightly different on your build. The distance of your holster from the side will depend on your waist size as well. Adjust accordingly!

 

Measure 1 1/4" from the bottom of the little attacher tab thingies, then find the center. Mark them.

 

 

You'll also want to measure and note the distance between the two crosses. This is the distance your belt holes need to separate.

 

Mark the belt face 1" from the right side of the plastic, 1/4" from the bottom of the canvas belt. Make a second mark the the distance you noted above.

 

 

Burn holes everywhere!!! Once again, make sure the chicago screws will fit through the holes on the holster and belt.

 

 

Attach the holster to the back of the belt using the chicago screws. Make sure they're tightened so they won't come off (Powerdrill is your friend here). Make sure the slotted side is on the inside of the belt.

 

 

Tada! Onto the next parts!

 

 

[Alay[TK]]

Belt Assembly Part 2: Attaching the belt to the ab plate.

 

This part is kinda of tricky, but doing it right can be the difference between a really irritating belt to attach (my kit) versus really simple (this one)

 

First thing I did was measure and drill holes on the ab plate.

 

29mm left of the left most "ridge", and 15mm from the return edge seam on the left side of the ab.

 

46mm right of the right most "ridge", and again 15mm from the return edge sea

 

 

 

I then attached snaps as shown in the pictures. You want male snaps facing outward. A 5/16" drill bit works great for Tandy Line 24 snap posts.

 

Laying the canvas belt over the ab plate, I then mark the location where the snaps should sit against the belt.

I do this by firmly pressing the belt against the ab plate where it should sit, then marking the center points on the indents.

 

 

Burn holes where marked, then attach female snaps facing INWARD on the belt.

If you're silly like me and attach it either facing the wrong way (bad) or using the wrong hole (also bad), you can remove a snap with a drill bit quite easily.

 

 

Fits on great now!

 

[Alay[TK]]

Belt Assembly Part 3: Drop Box attachment

 

Once you've glued your drop boxes together, drill a nice 5/16" hole in each towards the center top.

You'll then want to take two long pieces of 1" elastic (probably about a foot and a half each +/-). Fold over a bit at one end and burn a matching hole, then pop-rivet it to the dropbox.

 

 

Now take the drop boxes and loop the elastic behind and over the belt. You'll want about 1/4" space between the top of the dropbox and the bottom of the belt face. You'll also want to line up the side of the belt face with the side of the dropbox.

 

 

I like to apply a bit of E6000 here so it stays put, but you could also sew the elastic together and to the belt.

 

Once dry, cut the excess elastic off, then burn off the ends so it doesn't fray.

 

[JAYJAYN]

Hey Jay Jay,There's no return edge on them anymore, I just cut out the same sized slot again on the new armor.There are no explicit return edge requirements for any of the armor pieces at Centurion (in fact, the only return-edge related bit is that the wrists not have them!) so you do not need them.That said, return edges can be desirable and add the look of "bulk" to the armor. If you have a heating iron and you're brave you can probably recreate them fairly easily.Here's some pictures of mine

Thx for the info, btw was there a reason u cut from the bottom of the kidney plate instead of the top?

[Alay[TK]]

I actually didn't cut either side as the height was fine (I'm 5' 8"), just the width. The notch of course is in the bottom as per the CRL.

[Alay[TK]]

TK-20466 and TK-66402.  My amazing husband and I on his first troop.

 

Can you tell which is which?

 

[Cricket[TK]]

You guys look great!!!  How fun it must be to have a TK hubby to troop with.  

If I am to venture a guess about which one you are, I would guess that you're the one on the right.  I think that hubby would want to troop with the larger weapon.   And that you would be gracious enough to let him do so.  

 

[ABS80]

You both look fantastic, great job on the built !!!!!

 

Mark (AP)

[Haso[TK]]

Alright I'll play...i reckon that's you with the DLT and hubby is on the right.

Great job on the builds btw.

 

Sent from my SM-J100Y using Tapatalk

[Alay[TK]]

Thanks guys

 

For those guessing...

 

 

I am on the right with the SE-14r, and my husband is on the left with the DLT19

 

[Haso[TK]]

Wow. Shows how unisex the armour is. I was just guessing by heights.

 

Sent from my SM-J100Y using Tapatalk

[Alay[TK]]

We're actually the exact same height, and only 15lb difference in weight. Armor covers up the figure difference... It's awesome! We swap weapons throughout the event to confuse the handlers!

[Alay[TK]]

I've started the long task of re-strapping and re-creating the snap plates for my kit.  Now that I have a snap press proper they should work way better.  Unfortunately, my side rivet webbing is getting a bit spaced out from stretching over time (and I think an improper cauterizing job on the holes).  I'm thinking about making the rivets non-functional and putting additional snap plates in the left side of the clamshell.  Any suggestions?

[zv288bot[TK]]

I saw a build thread where someone used a piece of "rubber" as well still connecting it all with the 6 rivets that apparently prevented stretching. I will see if I can find it just so you have options. I do need to redo a bunch of snaps myself, ugh....

[Sentry71[TK]]

I think Pyrates had the rubber gasket for the sides.

 

Personally, I added a tab and slot configuration on the sides of mine, and left the rivets non-functional after my nylon straps stretched too much.

 

 

 

This shows the non-riveted side, but you can get the idea.

[Dracotrooper]

Hello from Canada! - great to get connected with your build thread Alay and yes, I was able to see your AP holster picture, thanks for the heads-up you gave earlier. Wish you all the best on your re-strapping

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Alay[TK]]

Hello from Canada! - great to get connected with your build thread Alay and yes, I was able to see your AP holster picture, thanks for the heads-up you gave earlier. Wish you all the best on your re-strapping

 

 

Thanks jesse!  Hope your build is going awesome!

[baldormoline[501st]]

I put the snazzy throat mic under my headwrap and above the center of my throat.  Seems to work best there

 

 

 

It fits nicely and unnoticeable under the neck seal.

 

 

Where did you get the throat mic?

 

I ask, because the link at the beginning of your build doesn't seem to work any longer.

Edited February 6, 2017 by baldormoline

[baldormoline[501st]]

Nevermind, I found it.

 

You may want to update your link to this one

 

http://www.ixradio.com/shop/throat-microphone-with-straight-3.5mm-connector-direct-mic-for-voice-amplifier-recorder.html

 

They seem to have redone their website.

[Alay[TK]]

Nevermind, I found it.

 

You may want to update your link to this one

 

http://www.ixradio.com/shop/throat-microphone-with-straight-3.5mm-connector-direct-mic-for-voice-amplifier-recorder.html

 

They seem to have redone their website.

 

Done, cheers!

[Alay[TK]]

As featured on the 501st facebook with the most adorable fan ever!

 

https://www.facebook.com/The501stLegion/photos/a.164650034751.117031.17637574751/10155080167299752/?type=3&theater

[Alay[TK]]

Using the Tandy 24 snaps for the belt is just not working out great for me... it's a bloody pain to get the belt on, though it sticks pretty good once it's there.

 

Any alternative suggestions for a different type of snap to use?