Alay's ANH Stunt build (AP, first build)

[Alay[TK]]

Moved them down and added in strap catches with ABS

 

They're closer but it looks like the shoulder is rolling forward slightly.  Going to see what I can do about that/what's causing that.

 

 

 

For the overlay on the kidney, should I trim the kidney/butt to about the red line, then reshape the butt a bit so it follows?  Doing it little by little as to not overcut of course.

 

[zv288bot[TK]]

Moved them down and added in strap catches with ABS

 

They're closer but it looks like the shoulder is rolling forward slightly. Going to see what I can do about that/what's causing that.

 

 

 

For the overlay on the kidney, should I trim the kidney/butt to about the red line, then reshape the butt a bit so it follows? Doing it little by little as to not overcut of course.

 

Ugh!! That's a good question. Not sure on the answer to that one. You should PM Tony (ukswrath) that picture and see what his thoughts are.

 

The biceps look much better by the way.

 

Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk

[Alay[TK]]

Will do, thanks!

 

In the mean time, starting the gluing of the shins coverstrips!  I forgot how tough the gluing wait is!

[Alay[TK]]

Quick update for today.

 

Shins are both gluing in the front coverstrip.

 

 

I'm going to reinforce the inside with another ABS strip.  That won't affect approval levels at all, right?  They just seem too fragile with the one on the outside.

 

I also started putting the 25mm strips for the velcro on the back.

 

 (clamp city right here)

 

I also set on the strap covers for the chest-> back connection.  

 

For anyone looking to do their own and following along (god bless you if you're looking to me for advice...) you'll want to tape them down to get a good measurement beforehand.  Usually you'll want the big block, and three to four of the little ones glued down.

 

You can bend the ABS into shape by hand little by little, or you can heat it up.  I just used muscle power and patience.  They're glued on mine about 3.5 over, and at a slight angle to conform to the body.  You'll want to clamp tightly on both corners so it curves with the chestplate.

 

You can also pre-curve the covers a bit on the short length to make them sit better.  I did this just a little to help along.

 

 

 

As a final aside, I got a bit of face shield that is nice and thick, dark green, and cuts pretty easy.  

 

 

I'll be removing the padding on the AP helmet and giving it a spray on of Plasti-dip to give it a black interior and a bit of thickness.  Then I'll be replacing the eyes with a removable bit of that face shield, as well as installing mesh over the teeth and padding to fit my head more comfortable.

 

 

One more note; I got in contact with ukswrath via PM about the kidney/abs.  He suggested I trim a bit of both sides rather than only the kidney.  Can't thank him enough for the help

 

I'll be working on fitting the kidney/abs/butt this weekend as well.

[Alay[TK]]

How could I forget... I also removed the return edge from my wrists.

 

 

I've decided I'm going to try to take it Centurion

[zv288bot[TK]]

Great job!! Let those clamps sit on the shoulder straps for at least two days if you are using e6000. I removed the clamps 24 hours later and I had a corner on a strap pop up. I reglued and reclamped and have had no issues since.

 

Also, I only did coverstrips on all the outer sides. The shins scared me the first time I stretched them to put them on but again, I've had no issues at this stage in the game. Honestly, I believe it's just for esthetics, maybe not, who knows but it's definitely flexible and strong without.

 

Lastly great to hear you are going for the gold with your build. Should be super easy for you. Just make sure you print the CRL and EI/Centurion checklist and you'll be good to go. I also looked for EI AP submission in my weight class for visual check. I am currently do so for Centurion as well as I need to work on getting my bells closer.

 

Anyway, you are doing well, keep asking questions!

 

Keep up the good work!

 

Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk

[Alay[TK]]

Great job!! Let those clamps sit on the shoulder straps for at least two days if you are using e6000. I removed the clamps 24 hours later and I had a corner on a strap pop up. I reglued and reclamped and have had no issues since.

 

Also, I only did coverstrips on all the outer sides. The shins scared me the first time I stretched them to put them on but again, I've had no issues at this stage in the game. Honestly, I believe it's just for esthetics, maybe not, who knows but it's definitely flexible and strong without.

 

Lastly great to hear you are going for the gold with your build. Should be super easy for you. Just make sure you print the CRL and EI/Centurion checklist and you'll be good to go. I also looked for EI AP submission in my weight class for visual check. I am currently do so for Centurion as well as I need to work on getting my bells closer.

 

Anyway, you are doing well, keep asking questions!

 

Keep up the good work!

 

Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk

 

Thanks!   I've been following yours closely; looking great so far, no doubt you'll have Centurion status soon because you look awesome 

[Cricket[TK]]

 

One more note; I got in contact with ukswrath via PM about the kidney/abs.  He suggested I trim a bit of both sides rather than only the kidney.  Can't thank him enough for the help

 

I'll be working on fitting the kidney/abs/butt this weekend as well.

This is very good info that I will need to refer to later in my build!  It makes total sense to trim off some of both pieces to keep the look of the armor balanced.  It's great to get confirmation from Tony about this, though!  

 

I'll be following your build and watching how you fit your armor.  Petite troopers unite!  

[Alay[TK]]

This is very good info that I will need to refer to later in my build!  It makes total sense to trim off some of both pieces to keep the look of the armor balanced.  It's great to get confirmation from Tony about this, though!  

 

I'll be following your build and watching how you fit your armor.  Petite troopers unite!  

 

Haha never been called petite before... usually just "super skinny" or "holy crap you're tall!"

 

I'll be posting a play by play of the adjustment so people can save me from colossal screw ups help me get it just perfect.  Hopefully it helps other people!  Haven't really found much on here in the way of reducing waist size.

 

 

On a side note, I managed to get an order in for S-Trim, got chicago screws for mounting the visor, and grabbed some fans from ukswrath.  We'll be starting tricking out the helmet this weekend

[Alay[TK]]

What type of rivets should I be using on the belt/belt-plastic attachment?  8mm pop rivets?  Or 8mm cap rivets?  Or whatever works best?

[zv288bot[TK]]

I used line 20 snaps because I wasn't sure I was gonna keep the belt. I will probably go with pop rivets when I fix it later.

[Alay[TK]]

Pop rivets were a bust... they set like crap and managed to gum up the rivet gun too.  I bought some Tandy 1/4" cap rivets and 5/16" cap rivets.. we'll see which works better.  I'm just glad I managed to get the pop rivets out of the plastic belt face without scuffing it too awful.

 

Maybe I'm just not good with them...

[zv288bot[TK]]

Interesting, where did you get the rivets from. For the ammo boxes that hang from the belt you will need to use pop rivets for that and the ones I bought from Home Depot worked pretty well with my crappy Harbor Freight gun. Did you take a picture? Just curious...

 

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[Alay[TK]]

Home Depot.  Got kind of a cheap gun which might be the reason it got gummed up.  Not sure I can actually get the half-existing stud out of there... but it's not a huge loss if I can't.

 

I didn't take any pictures, but it seemed like the pop rivets didn't "roll" out on the backside correctly.  They just kind of mushed vertically.

 

I think it's probably my lack of talent with tools 

[Alay[TK]]

Ok I managed to fix this rivet gun, and did another on a folded piece of ABS to show what I mean about it rolling out.

 

The backside

 

Front looks fine

 

Maybe the bit I'm using is too long... Maybe I need 1/8th inch post length?  Didn't see anything small than 1/4" at home depot but I'll check another hardware store tomorrow.

[zv288bot[TK]]

Yeah, it's most likely too long and you will also need to place a washer on that end as well or it could eventually pull out. You'll have to play around with it and see what washers would work the best.

[Alay[TK]]

A washer... I feel silly now for that not occurring to me. Thanks;

[Alay[TK]]

Ok so I went to home depot and found 1/8th inch length pop rivets.  I also got some washers.  They didn't want to sell me a washer without a dryer too, so I had to get both.  My clothes are clean, but it didn't help much with the belt.

 

 

 

Joking aside, 1/8th inch length 3/16th inch diameter pop rivets worked perfectly.  The belt is joined and the covers are clamped and drying e6000.

 

Today was make my helmet improvement day.

 

First, I uninstalled the ears and pulled the helmet apart.  Pulled out the foam and cellophane for the eyes.

 

 

 

 

Sanded the inside of the helmets to help the Plasti dip adhere.  Then we taped up the sides so there wasn't too much to worry about.

 

 

Shake the can really good and go outside!  This stuff reeks when it's dry!

 

 

 

I gave it three or four light coats to give it a nice deep coloring.

 

 

You can remove any extra that gets outside where you want with a bit of paper towel and a soft rub down.  Comes off super easily so not fret too much.  Just be careful when you're spraying it.

 

After about two hours of drying I can barely smell it.  Husband turned his nose up, but he's got a prissy sensitive nose 

 

 

 

 

First thing is the mesh for the frown.  I use my advanced knowledge of maths and measure to eyeball it.

 

 

I add some velcro in the rough shape to the inside of the helmet.  We'll be using this to attach the mesh.

 

 

 

Using more advanced calculations involving tons of trigonometry I again eyeball out an ABS shape and apply some velcro to it.  The mesh wire will sit on top of the velcro (it sort of sticks to it) and can be replaced if need be.

 

 

After I added some padding stuff to the opposite side.  This way it will won't cut up my face if I rub against it or anything.

 

 

 

Apply the velcro on the inside.  Try five or size times to get it centered like I did...

 

 

 

And boom, velcro interchangable mesh plates with a snazzy padded inside.

 

 

Next on the list is installing a bit of cut visor for the eyes.  I created a few ABS plates.  I'm going to put Tandy chicago screws through them so I can swap out the visor when it gets dirty/I want to make it neon pink or something in the future.

 

 

The screws I used are 1/4" and 3/8".  They both have a diameter of 13/64".  I install the bottom screw bits and put four 1/4" posts around the eyes.  I add a final 3/8" bit to the center.  E6000 and clamp down.

 

 

The visor idea is from TKZombie, who did a much cleaner job of it than I did.  You can see pictures of TKZombie's installation here:  http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36129-helmet-visor-installation/

 

 

After the glue is dry I'll be installing the actual visors, then adding velcro and padding to the inside of the helmet to fit my head.  Stay tuned!

Edited August 7, 2016 by Alay

[zv288bot[TK]]

Looking good! Congrats on the washer and dryer hopefully you went with front loaders!

 

Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk

Edited August 7, 2016 by zv288bot

[Alay[TK]]

Left Shin is completed... Right shin is still drying.

 

Might need to heat warp it a little as it's a little weird... I've heard the AP shins needs a bit of massaging though.

 

 

Just from trying it on there's a bit of mobility restriction.  Obviously that's just how armor is, but I'd like to minimize it.  I'm thinking of sanding down the return edge on the top of the shin here:

 

 

 

Wondering if I should also cut out a bit of the material from the back for more movement.  If I did, would that affect certification status?

 

Edited August 8, 2016 by Alay

[Alay[TK]]

Part two of the helmet upgrade and fitting!

 

 

Now that the E6000 plates are glued in nice and snug, I cut the visor bit by bit to size, drilled where needed, and added the visor bit in.

 

 

I was going to sand it down and give it a nice clean shape but the material is kind of easily scuffed and I'm still not 100% sure I won't replace it with something else yet.  Either way, I can easily change it out now.

 

 

 

Teeth mesh and visor done.  Next job... Padding!

 

I velcro up a bunch of the interior of the helmet.  The padding I bought earlier (first page picture) sticks nicely to the velcro hooks.  I applied two bits over the ear screws, a big pad at the top center of the head.  I also "double padded" the forehead so it sits nicely.

 

 

I still have a bit of space between the ears, so I might get larger pads.  Overall it fits pretty nicely now, not super snug, and not super loose.  I can get in and out of it while wearing glasses still.

 

 

Post man also gave me a surprise today....

 

 

Big thanks to ukswrath's helmet fans.  

 

I added velcro just past the frown and added padding to the back of the two fans

 

 

The fans sit nicely in place, and the wiring is ran into the front bit and out of the way

 

 

I looped up some of the wires in velcro, and also installed a spot for this tube USB power stick I bought on a whim at an airport last year.  Fits the purpose pretty good!

 

 

All together helmet picture

 

[Alay[TK]]

On the topic of electronics... 

 

I decided to give the iComm/Aker/Throatmic a run with the new helmet to test the sound.

 

Installed the iComm on the inside of the breastpiece.  Fits nicely and out of the way with velcro.

 

 

 

I put the snazzy throat mic under my headwrap and above the center of my throat.  Seems to work best there

 

 

 

It fits nicely and unnoticeable under the neck seal.

 

 

 

Push to talk ran down to my glove and I'm good to go!  The throat mic muffles my voice a little and drops it a fair bit giving me a more radio-esque sound.  The iComm adds that nice static burst.  Final result is a mostly sound like a male stormtrooper might sound!

 

It also doubles as a fantastic way to terrify the cats...  As I learned from them clawing over my feet in fear.

Edited August 9, 2016 by Alay

[ABS80]

Good job so far!

 

Remove material only from AB which has 3" extra on each side, leave kidney/butt plate alone,  the kidney I already removed all the extra and its trimmed to original size with correct notch size, I left the extra only on the AB plate so that's were you can play with the sizing. 

 

 PLEASE DO NOT use a heat gun on ABS,  it will just shrink beyond repair so many people did this same mistake, you a hair dryer instead it hot enough to work with.

 

Mark (AP)

Edited August 9, 2016 by ABS80

[Alay[TK]]

Good job so far!

 

Remove material only from AB which has 3" extra on each side, leave kidney/butt plate alone,  the kidney I already removed all the extra and its trimme dot original size with correct notch size, I left the extra only on the AB plate so that's were you can play with the sizing. 

 

 PLEASE DO NOT use a heat gun on ABS,  it will just shrink beyond repair so many people did this same mistake, you a hairdryer instead it hot enough to work with.

 

Mark (AP)

 

Thanks Mark!  Good to know the extra is on the ab plate; I'll start there =)  Loving the kit so far!

[zv288bot[TK]]

Left Shin is completed... Right shin is still drying.

 

Might need to heat warp it a little as it's a little weird... I've heard the AP shins needs a bit of massaging though.

 

 

Just from trying it on there's a bit of mobility restriction.  Obviously that's just how armor is, but I'd like to minimize it.  I'm thinking of sanding down the return edge on the top of the shin here:

 

 

 

Wondering if I should also cut out a bit of the material from the back for more movement.  If I did, would that affect certification status?

 

 

 

 

Looks good, I would hold off on cutting the back of the shins until you get basic approval then talk to the GML to see what he/she recommends. They can give you a better idea of how much to remove. Not sure how much Mark agrees but I have give my shins, forearms, shoulder bells and butt plate all hot water baths to get them to fit me better. That's an option as well. Lot's of posts about it and even some tutorials I saw somewhere on here.