The5thHorseman[501st] Posted May 28, 2016 Report Posted May 28, 2016 First I’d like to thank Derrek who’s been kind enough to supply me with a tactical stock even though he said he wasn’t doing them anymore. Very nice of him. Overall the build was extremely straight-forward except for the end cap and tactical stock as I had to make them removable in order to have the possibility to swap between both configurations. When I received the kit, both flash protectors had been shattered into pieces during transit from Germany to France so instead of trying to glue the puzzle back I decided to grind them down and replace them with new ones made out of ABS scraps. As you can see in this pic, before making the final ones in ABS I first made paper templates. At this point I had also grinded the resin underneath the rear part of the scope rail. I also had to replace one of the peg used to glue the hengstler. I used the head of a pop rivet for that. Like the flash protectors, some of the T-tracks were damaged but nothing unfixable. The hardest has been to fix the forward grip as there were big holes into it. Holes like that are hard to fill because you have nothing to back your putty. But Derrek told me about it before sending me the kit, so I was aware of the issue and said it wasn’t bothering me. (Still a WIP in the picture) The front foot of the scope mount was broken during the transit too so I had to parse it back into one piece. For the trigger I went with a very simple solution. I used the rest of the rivet used before to fix the hengstler peg as a pin. Carved out notches into the folding stock and glued the pin ends inside them. This way the trigger is still free to move. I only had to fill the notches with putty once the glue had cured and sand smooth. The folding stock is secured to the barrel with three screws, one visible at the front, and two hidden by the handle. The two other screws sticking out from the folding stock are there to reinforce the gluing of the handle. For the tactical stock I reported the inner diameter of the PVC pipe that’s inside the barrel to the inside of the end cap, and then bored it until reaching the hollow core of the stock. I didn’t have a large enough drill bit for this so I had to use a M3 drill bit, the countersinking bit and the drumming wheel of my Dremel to do that… Quite a boring work (pun intended ). I then searched for something that would fit nice and tight between the two and found an old syringe that fitted perfectly. I sanded the outside of it to give it a little more grip. I was planning to glue it inside the tactical stock, but in the end the friction only is enough to keep it tight so I didn’t use any. Moment of truth. If I messed up when I reported the inner diameter of the PVC pipe to the tactical stock, the two won't slide together. Winning . A glimpse of the stock’s hollow core. And that's all! The rest is all paint. The parts ready for primer. Primmer applied. I used Light Grey Tamiya Fine Primer. I didn’t make any picture of how the end cap fits with the barrel with no glue but on this one you can see how it works. Pretty much the same thing than for the tactical stock. Then I went onto masking and painting all the parts. I must admit that some of them were not easy to mask and required some patience to do right. I first began by masking everything but the parts to be in white and applied two coats of gloss white in spray can. After that I masked the white and silver parts and painted the black. The black I used is Humbrol Enamel Matte Black n°33 applied with an airbrush. But I applied the third coat a bit too soon after the second and in the end the black has more of a satin finish. After the black coats, only the silver, black and red details were still to do. At this point I added TORX screws underneath the magazine, the folding stock, to the rear sight, and other places for accuracy. And yes the putty I used to fill the notches for the trigger has shrunk after I applied the primer but I didn’t bother smooting it again. I fastened the forward grip with the hinge using two TORX screws. The ones I used are too small but I only had four big ones and chose to use them on the handle instead. I also painted the inside of the pills on the ammo clip in red. Then I added the screws to the handle and hand painted the black and silver details of the scope mount. Silver details on the barrel. The silver I used is terribly wrong as you can see. It’s the Humbrol n°11 and Humbrol changed its formula lately and now it looks more like a grey than anything else… Well I still have two tins of it! Quote
The5thHorseman[501st] Posted May 28, 2016 Author Report Posted May 28, 2016 (edited) The finished blaster without the tactical stock. The finished blaster with tactical stock. Very easy and quite enjoyable build in the end! T5H. Edited May 28, 2016 by The5thHorseman 7 Quote
Dday[501st] Posted June 6, 2016 Report Posted June 6, 2016 Oh man, this is getting linked in my thread Doing all my work for me.... well for everyone else too! 1 Quote
Bulldog44[TK] Posted June 6, 2016 Report Posted June 6, 2016 Beautiful! Amazing to see it all come together and the great paint job. Looks like it came straight off the Furst Order assembly line. 1 Quote
TK3645 Posted August 4, 2016 Report Posted August 4, 2016 The finished blaster without the tactical stock. The finished blaster with tactical stock. Very easy and quite enjoyable build in the end! T5H. Hey Germain, Geat build. I see you used a Humbrol red paint for the light effects. Did you go for the gloss #19 or Satin #174 or something else? Cheers Quote
The5thHorseman[501st] Posted August 4, 2016 Author Report Posted August 4, 2016 Hey Germain, Geat build. I see you used a Humbrol red paint for the light effects. Did you go for the gloss #19 or Satin #174 or something else? Cheers Actually I used the Humbrol #60. Not that I would recommand it though, it's just because that's what I had in hand at the moment. I think the satin red should do fine. 1 Quote
TK3645 Posted August 4, 2016 Report Posted August 4, 2016 Actually I used the Humbrol #60. Not that I would recommand it though, it's just because that's what I had in hand at the moment. I think the satin red should do fine. You think satin would be better than the gloss? I was thinking that given it's meant to replicate glowing LED light's gloss may of been the better of the two? Also the gloss white paint for the F11D. Is it your understanding that the blasters had the same white colour as the armor? I ask as I was going to paint my armor with RAL 9010 so should I use the same 9010 on the blaster or go with a generic gloss white? Cheers Quote
The5thHorseman[501st] Posted August 4, 2016 Author Report Posted August 4, 2016 Yes, a gloss red might be better. For the white, I don't think it has to match the white of the armor, but I guess there's nothing wrong if it does. As long as it's a gloss white, it's the most important. 1 Quote
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