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Posted

Using the blaster reference guide pictures from our Weapons Locker forum, I landmarked from where the scope sits above in reference to where the inner bolt.

 

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Posted (edited)

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Here's how I did mine. A permanent marker and a soda can. Went for 11, maybe 12 coils of spring visible

 

Marc

Edited by CTID
Posted

32cbf5e90302af3fb132cfd7cab3513c.jpg

Here's how I did mine. A permanent marker and a soda can.

 

Marc

That's awesome Marc, beautiful example of how to adapt and overcome - fist bump!

  • Like 1
Posted

For mine, I'm using copper pipe and fitting from my refrigeration gear:

 

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Posted

I marked out where my charging handle sits, and cut out that section so it sits flush and almost seamless.

 

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Posted

For mine, I'm using copper pipe and fitting from my refrigeration gear:

 

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Makes sense mate! I didn't have any so worked with what I had. The boy has "lost" a lot of pens of late....well, I needed the springs!

 

Marc

  • Like 1
Posted

Time for me to grab a couple items from my van and it's tea time lol.

Posted (edited)

So let's hit the nail on the head, as it were, there is a difference between where the bolt "groove" or "guide" sits on my blaster.

 

Mine is positioned higher than the one in the blue print, meaning I'm not going to get the full detail - however I'm a firm believer that something is better than nothing.

 

This also why I won't be able to replicate the shell extraction pin at the front of the bolt as my "groove" sits in the road.

 

Here's what I'm talking about:

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And mine...

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Edited by Pyrates
Posted

And just so everyone is aware, this is just me trying to add a little more magic to my blaster and all these extras are not part of the CRL requirements.

Posted

Moving on, I've marked locations and constructed an inner bolt.

 

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Posted

A quick soldier and this bad boy is solid.

 

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Next scratched up for painting

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

Rocking on!

 

https://youtu.be/eoiY6CNoepU

 

This next week is gonna be fun, and the push is to be ready for knocking on Tony's and Andrew's door next weekend.

 

Once this blaster portion of the thread is done we're heading right back into the armor modifications, which I've been working on concurrently while doing E-11 improvements.

Posted

Now the upper portion of the "grove" won't be seen, but for the bottom portion I've ground it down a bit for painting in later.

Posted

Tape off and inner bolt painting

 

I used a mix of metallic black and steel first to prime the parts of the inner and outer bolt.

 

IMO I like the darker look of silver , so once dry I've done another coat of metallic black.

 

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Posted

Counter something, something, something...complete lol - that never gets old for me

 

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Posted

With the counter done, it was time re-install the scope and counter back onto the rail. The attach the power cell wires.

 

Presto chango

 

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Posted

Next, one last detail to be added to the magazine - believe it or not using an airsoft bee-bee.

 

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Posted

Touched up with some paint, and now time to let it dry.

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

I'm going to let that coat dry and do some more sanding of the surface as it still looks a little rough for my liking.

Posted

After that, the blaster work is done and time for final review of E-11 EIB and Centurion requirements.

  • Like 1
Posted

All right, let's review the CRL Checklist for the E-11 Blaster for EIB and Centurion:

 

 

EIB requirements :

•Folding stock (does not need to function). - ✔️

 

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•A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present. - ✔️

 

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•D-ring mounted on the rear. - ✔️

 

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•Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope. - ✔️

 

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•Two power cylinders on the magazine housing. - ✔️

 

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•Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).

If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side.

 

-This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place.

 

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•No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster. - ✔️

 

 

Centurion requirements :

 

Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions. - ✔️

 

QuestDesignCanada Resin Cast blaster

 

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Blaster is ready for application

  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks to Marc for pointing out that the spring should be spread more showing 11 to 12 coils - cheers brother!

 

Correction underway!

  • Like 1

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