Questions on finishing and painting FOTK armor

[BlackFrown72]

I have recently purchased a set of Jimmiroquai flexible fiberglass FOTK armor. The set has been painted and worn however, I want to upgrade the paint and detail work along some other mods before putting this on. My biggest hurdle is going to be repainting. So my question is, does anyone have any advice for this process. I know I need to sand the crud out of the parts but not so sure of the best way to achieve the finish that is needed along with the perfect paint for flexible material.

[dejango[TK]]

Although i haven't painted a set of armor before I have painted a lot of plastic and i believe Jim made a video once about what paint he uses and the process he recommends. I believe he uses rustoleum but i could be wrong 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Most use Rustoleum, I've had massive problems with that paint so I used automotive acrylic paint in spray cans, worked well for me and can be buffed.

[BlackFrown72]

Most use Rustoleum, I've had massive problems with that paint so I used automotive acrylic paint in spray cans, worked well for me and can be buffed.

What brand did you use and did you use a specific primer for that particular paint? Also....does this route require a clear coat?

 

I painted my bucket with Rustoleum Universal gloss white. The color is dead on but, it isn't glossy like I wanted. Thinking I may need to hit it with some 400 to 600 and a clear coat to get the shine.

Edited May 23, 2016 by BlackFrown72

[dejango[TK]]

What brand did you use and did you use a specific primer for that particular paint? Also....does this route require a clear coat?

 

I painted my bucket with Rustoleum Universal gloss white. The color is dead on but, it isn't glossy like I wanted. Thinking I may need to hit it with some 400 to 600 and a clear coat to get the shine.

I would wager you wouldn't even have to sand at all and just go straight to a full gloss clear coat. Make sure you ask someone who has experience with paints about glosses, because a lot of companies say their product is gloss but most of the time they aren't completely glossy and just end up with a more polished semi gloss look

[TK4205]

Rustolium cracks. I would normaly use Krylon, but resin wont take that very well. I would finish it with a paint designed for bumpers. I'd start looking at the auto parts store.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

What brand did you use and did you use a specific primer for that particular paint? Also....does this route require a clear coat?

 

I painted my bucket with Rustoleum Universal gloss white. The color is dead on but, it isn't glossy like I wanted. Thinking I may need to hit it with some 400 to 600 and a clear coat to get the shine.

It's an Australian brand paint. Acrylic auto primer/spray putty, paint and clear coat. Can be sanded and buffed for better shine.

 

Not sure how you would go with sanding Rustoleum as I've never tried

[BlackFrown72]

The paint that was on it before was Krylon and it was cracking bad. Every place where there was the slightest bit of flex, you could see the paint open up. I do have a bud who MIGHT be able to have this shot in a professional auto paint booth however, if this is the route I take, it could be months before it is done due to how busy they are. Apparently, a urethane base with clear coat done professional is the absolute best way to go but can be pretty pricey. This from what I hear so far.

[steamboatphan]

Following... for when my rustoleum starts to go to hell...

[BlackFrown72]

Following... for when my rustoleum starts to go to hell...

Evin, Let me know how that rustoleum holds up. Did you clear coat at all? I'm experimenting with a gloss rustoleum vinyl coat at the moment.

[steamboatphan]

So far, so good!

 

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[Cowboy Kylo[501st]]

I first did mine with the rustoleum 2x but now repainting with rustoleum universal. Color looks the same which is good and should be more flexible, because the 2x cracks everywhere

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Had mine professionally painted. Well worth the investment IMO

[BlackFrown72]

Well after a ton of research, it has been advised to add a flex agent to the paint and clear coat. So....thanks to a couple friends, I now have access to a compressor and paint line. Looks like I'll be shooting this with automotive paint and clear coat with a little help from some friends. Hopefully it will save me tons of headache in the long run. Hoping and praying.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Though the type of paint is important IMO, pre paint preparation is even more important. That means reinforcing the armor in areas prone to cracking and high flexibility not mention making sure you didn't use too much bondo or filler. I'm sure your friends also stated using a high tack prior to adding base primer sanded with 400 grit , prior to paint I hope.

Good luck, can't wait to see the results

 

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[BlackFrown72]

Here's a question...now that I have a good plan for paint ( when I get to that point). Does anyone have ideas or advice on removal of the paint that is currently on it? Because holy gees oh man this sucks! Lmao.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Here's a question...now that I have a good plan for paint ( when I get to that point). Does anyone have ideas or advice on removal of the paint that is currently on it? Because holy gees oh man this sucks! Lmao.

 

If you can't remove all of it I highly suggest taking your time priming and prepping. Any uneven level of material on top of the plastic the paint will find later and show its ugly head as an unwanted crease or line. Just make sure you feather the old paint and primer properly.  

[BlackFrown72]

Thanks Tony. This could save me a ton of time. And a whole lot of hand cramping...lol

[pandatrooper[TK]]

The reason that some paints crack is because most rattle can lacquer paints are not designed to flex very much if at all. You need some kind of flex agent if the surface is going to bend past a given point.

The other issue is some rattle can paints say they have one coat finish, or double coats, etc. This lays the paint on too thick and this can also cause cracking.

As mentioned, prep is a big deal. I've painted plenty of things, props and helmets and costumes with Krylon and never had issues if the prep was done right.

- sand surface down to 400

- clean surface (remove all oils, I find on plastic, resin and fiberglass liquid dish detergent works well. on metal use degreaser)

- use a tack cloth to remove lint

- prime the surface. Several light coats, the first is a dusting coat. Never lay it on heavy.

- after dry, apply top color coat. Several light coats, the first is a dusting coat. Never lay it on heavy

- always start your spray before you pass over the object, end the spray after you pass it

- try to keep one edge always "wet" as you cover your object in left to right rows

- I can't stand Youtube videos where people just "wag the can all over" because this leaves an uneven finish

- do both on the same day, never leave coats too far apart otherwise they won't bond to each other

- let it dry. At least 3-4 days, a week is great.

- never paint in the sun, or on hot humid days, this affects the paint greatly

- never paint in the cold

[ukswrath[Staff]]

The reason that some paints crack is because most rattle can lacquer paints are not designed to flex very much if at all. You need some kind of flex agent if the surface is going to bend past a given point.

 

The other issue is some rattle can paints say they have one coat finish, or double coats, etc. This lays the paint on too thick and this can also cause cracking.

 

As mentioned, prep is a big deal. I've painted plenty of things, props and helmets and costumes with Krylon and never had issues if the prep was done right.

 

- sand surface down to 400

- clean surface (remove all oils, I find on plastic, resin and fiberglass liquid dish detergent works well. on metal use degreaser)

- use a tack cloth to remove lint

- prime the surface. Several light coats, the first is a dusting coat. Never lay it on heavy.

- after dry, apply top color coat. Several light coats, the first is a dusting coat. Never lay it on heavy

- always start your spray before you pass over the object, end the spray after you pass it

- try to keep one edge always "wet" as you cover your object in left to right rows

- I can't stand Youtube videos where people just "wag the can all over" because this leaves an uneven finish

- do both on the same day, never leave coats too far apart otherwise they won't bond to each other

- let it dry. At least 3-4 days, a week is great.

- never paint in the sun, or on hot humid days, this affects the paint greatly

- never paint in the cold

 

Very good painting tips here 

[BlackFrown72]

Excellent!!!

[BlackFrown72]

Here's a finishing or rather, body work question maybe someone can answer. I have to do some work on the chest vent of my kit. Needs to be filled in a little and reshaped. So....bondo or apoxie sculpt?

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Here's a finishing or rather, body work question maybe someone can answer. I have to do some work on the chest vent of my kit. Needs to be filled in a little and reshaped. So....bondo or apoxie sculpt?

 

I began with plastic welder because it's what I used to secure my chest box itself and it's tough but can be shaped when dry. Afterwards I used body putty to fill in any tiny holes. 98% of any areas known to be high flex, prone to cracking or highly visible I treated the same way.

[BlackFrown72]

Tony, I have one of Jim's kits. Second hand. It's all flexible fiberglass and the chest hole was not given the care it needed to be just right in my opinion. Basically I'm a detail freak and I gotta fix it lol. So I'm gonna gave to at least partially fill it in and redo it in order to get it right. Just not sure what material to use to sculpt it back into shape.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

I've repaired a few surfboards and water craft toys in my time. Fiberglass resin products are best suited in this case. I would contact a boat repair facility or Tap Plastics and see what they recommend. You need something that is strong yet flexible.