steamboatphan Posted April 27, 2016 Author Report Posted April 27, 2016 I was shocked how flexible that midsection was & that it fit me yes! like i said earlier, i am 6'2" about 220 lbs. I believe that this armor would be a lot harder to build if you are really thin.... More mods, at least. Quote
JAFO[TK] Posted April 27, 2016 Report Posted April 27, 2016 Terrific thread! Thanks for the updates 1 Quote
steamboatphan Posted April 27, 2016 Author Report Posted April 27, 2016 I couldn't resist posting another chest plate pic! It's so shiny! I can see myself in it... and with the flash on so you can see how white it is! Move along... Move along... Quote
steamboatphan Posted April 27, 2016 Author Report Posted April 27, 2016 (edited) Pouch is done.... easiest part of the build! I will have to find some kind of filler for this. probably foam. although i'd like the pouch to still be functional, whether it be to hold my cellphone (thats a first for trooping) or to carry the aker amp. I currently have Ukswrath's audio setup in my bucket, but i find that it doesnt get that loud. it works great and all, but for noisy troops i think the Aker is where it's at. Helmet set-up the extra padding is to cut back on feedback. waterproof speakers in the bucket emit sound out of the vents on each side there is also a bluetooth reciever hooked up to the amp so i can play the imperial march on my phone via remote control here is the link to Ukswraths audio system: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32951-interest-check-ukswraths-tfa-helmet-audio/ Edited April 27, 2016 by steamboatphan 1 Quote
LittleAsianYoda Posted April 27, 2016 Report Posted April 27, 2016 I'm definitely following this with interest. I should be on the June batch for mine. 1 Quote
JAFO[TK] Posted April 28, 2016 Report Posted April 28, 2016 Pouch is done.... easiest part of the build! I will have to find some kind of filler for this. probably foam. although i'd like the pouch to still be functional, whether it be to hold my cellphone (thats a first for trooping) or to carry the aker amp. I've used pick 'n pluck foam in my pouches. Fills them out, gives them form but you can easily create an insert for a phone. 1 Quote
Tiedoll Posted April 28, 2016 Report Posted April 28, 2016 Dat helmet lining Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
steamboatphan Posted April 29, 2016 Author Report Posted April 29, 2016 getting creative while starting to prime up the rest of the armor. When painting the ab armor, make sure to have the straps in back closed so that you have the piece flexed in the correct position that you will be wearing it in. This will avoid paint cracking issues. Quote
steamboatphan Posted April 29, 2016 Author Report Posted April 29, 2016 Update: I got a little too excited to lay down the white gloss on the ab section, and did it while it was pretty cold in my garage. (~45 degrees) atmospheric pressure and temperature are crucial when painting. you want a nice 70-80 degree weather conditions. Long story short.... my paint ran.... it ran REALLY REALLY bad. so it looks like i will be waiting for this to cure and then sand it down and apply another top coat. DAMNIT Quote
Fedaykin[TK] Posted April 29, 2016 Report Posted April 29, 2016 I feel you. Its the reason i have been holding off of painting for a week now. Weather sucks right for painting now, always rainy and/or cold here. Gesendet von iPad mit Tapatalk Quote
steamboatphan Posted April 29, 2016 Author Report Posted April 29, 2016 (edited) FYI, I'm working a little bit each day, then posting all my progress in one giant thread dump about once a week. Today, I started on the dreaded thermal detonator. Easily, the most prep time involved in this piece. When i first held the TD in my hands, i was shocked to see how freakin light and hollow it was. I've also heard/seen horror stories of people dropping their TD and cracks/holes appearing. I was no exception, except i didn't drop it Some people have filled the TD with expanding foam, which is a great idea. But if you do it, be sure to drill an extra hole for the excess foam to escape. I didn't want to take the risk of foam exploding my TD wide open at the seams, so i left it as is. Once i started sanding it down, i noticed there were air pockets in several parts that were bulging out. they had to go. I'm using stuff called Apoxie Sculpt to fill in all the larger pinholes and "popped" air bubbles There is an extremely light coat of filler primer on here now. It definitely showed all the imperfections better after i laid it down. i plan on using the Apoxie and sanding again. Then its off for another coat of primer.... then paint. Note: the apoxie takes about 24 hours to fully harden as i mentioned earlier with the biceps. Edited April 29, 2016 by steamboatphan 1 Quote
steamboatphan Posted April 29, 2016 Author Report Posted April 29, 2016 I feel you. Its the reason i have been holding off of painting for a week now. Weather sucks right for painting now, always rainy and/or cold here. Gesendet von iPad mit Tapatalk Yes, I think i'll not be lazy next time and set up some drop cloths in my basement with some fans blowing. I am super impatient. when i have armor thats all strapped and ready for paint.... but cant.... it's torture. Now i'm paying the price. this sanding is gonna suck. I'm honestly too embarrassed to post a pic of what it looks like now. Quote
Tiedoll Posted April 29, 2016 Report Posted April 29, 2016 (edited) After itch-sanding, do you cut, then apoxie, primer, then sand again? I have bondo from my clone but I'm not sure when to apply it, if at all as apposed to apoxie. At this point I've only done initial sanding and have found a few cracked parts and some surface imperfections. The cracks have been handled with Super Gorilla Glue for now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited April 29, 2016 by Tiedoll Quote
steamboatphan Posted April 29, 2016 Author Report Posted April 29, 2016 (edited) After itch-sanding, do you cut, then apoxie, primer, then sand again? I have bondo from my clone but I'm not sure when to apply it, if at all as apposed to apoxie. At this point I've only done initial sanding and have found a few cracked parts and some surface imperfections. The cracks have been handled with Super Gorilla Glue for now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk after i sanded down all the fiberglass on the inside of the armor, I went over all the parts looking for stress cracks and filled with CA glue. then i cut the biceps. then i sanded those down, sand down the CA glue parts, and went at pinholes and seams with apoxie sculpt on all the armor pieces. sand down the apoxie after it cures. after laying a light coat of filler primer, i added more apoxie (that stuff will stick to virtually any surface) to any parts i may have missed. sand again, then prime with a heavier coat. *the filler primer is great for the microscopic pinholes and areas that aren't worth using apoxie on. Ready for paint. Edited April 29, 2016 by steamboatphan Quote
steamboatphan Posted April 30, 2016 Author Report Posted April 30, 2016 It may not look like it in this pic, but this TD is as smooth as a babies butt now Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G928A using Tapatalk 2 Quote
steamboatphan Posted May 1, 2016 Author Report Posted May 1, 2016 (edited) Paint is drying on the belt boxes and TD right now.... tomorrow I'll be tackling the shins. CRL It looks as though i'll need to trim the inner top of the shins down and also CA glue the ridges onto the left outer leg. Also need to decide whether or not i'm going to cut the hole at the bottom of the shins or just use the decals i got provided by trooperbay. Edited May 1, 2016 by steamboatphan Quote
RTrooperAlex Posted May 1, 2016 Report Posted May 1, 2016 How much did the kit from Jim cost? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
steamboatphan Posted May 1, 2016 Author Report Posted May 1, 2016 How much did the kit from Jim cost? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk There's a link on the first page of this thread to his project run. All pricing information is there. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G928A using Tapatalk Quote
steamboatphan Posted May 1, 2016 Author Report Posted May 1, 2016 Did a quick test fit of everything today, and i'm pretty happy with how it looks. I can finally see a first order stormtrooper in the mirror now, instead of a bunch of pieces of armor lying around anyways, i still have to sand down the paint i messed up on the ab section today and repaint. if you look close in this pic, you can see where i already started sanding in places. also i think the shoulder bells need to be moved forward and inch (at the most) I also need to figure out how i'm gonna attach the gaskets to the biceps and forearms.... most likely just velcro. Keep in mind, the pieces arent secured in this pic... it should be more "tight" when i get all the strapping done. 3 Quote
steamboatphan Posted May 1, 2016 Author Report Posted May 1, 2016 Here's another pic so you can see what Jim's gaskets look like. For the Knee gaskets, i'm going to have to tighten them up a bit. more sewing! i'm thinking of replacing the velcro closure with a zipper or elastic (so that there's no overlapping). 1 Quote
RTrooperAlex Posted May 1, 2016 Report Posted May 1, 2016 There's a link on the first page of this thread to his project run. All pricing information is there. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G928A using Tapatalk When I clicked the link I got a error code Quote
RTrooperAlex Posted May 1, 2016 Report Posted May 1, 2016 Here's another pic so you can see what Jim's gaskets look like. For the Knee gaskets, i'm going to have to tighten them up a bit. more sewing! i'm thinking of replacing the velcro closure with a zipper or elastic (so that there's no overlapping). Looking great!! 1 Quote
steamboatphan Posted May 1, 2016 Author Report Posted May 1, 2016 When I clicked the link I got a error codeU need to be a member of the RPF. It's free.The armor only is $780 Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G928A using Tapatalk 1 Quote
RTrooperAlex Posted May 1, 2016 Report Posted May 1, 2016 U need to be a member of the RPF. It's free. The armor only is $780 Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G928A using Tapatalk Thank you soooo much! now I know how much to save!! Quote
steamboatphan Posted May 2, 2016 Author Report Posted May 2, 2016 I went to go put another coat of paint on after about 24 hours of the last coat (merely for touchups) and about 5 minutes later after i sprayed it started to get all wrinkly. Now i am, by no means, a professional painter, and i'm kinda learning as i go, but this really got on my nerves. the TD is the same. Any advice on this would be appreciated. i know i have to re-sand it down... how long after? do i wait until it's fully cured? wet sand? HELP! Quote
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