SpiceCredits ANH Stunt Build Thread [AP]

[Pyrates[TK]]

Deadly work mate!

 

Oober glad I could help - I have found the hard hat liner provides great circulation and installed it using Velcro so it makes it fast to adjust to comfort

[SpiceCredits]

Hey guys! <br><br>

So I'm starting to wonder about my brow. I wanted it kinda low, but this is a few mm lower than I wanted. It's partly due to me replacing the screws (not ear) with rivets. <br><br>

I'm thinking of drilling them out and going back to screws, but I'm super nervous about that. <br><br>

Do you think the brow is good, or is it worth drilling them out and putting the screws back in fo a few mm??

[Pyrates[TK]]

I think your brow looks great but if you decide to remove the rivets here is a great walk through:

 

Removing rivets

Like you found out already, the drill bit will heat up the rivet, if you spend to much time drilling you will just melt the entire size of the rivet. Use a pair of pliers on the rounded head of the rivet to hold it steady and drill, use a sharp bit and only drill for 2 seconds, then wait 5, then 2 seconds, then wait 5, this way it doesn't heat up to much. It really should only take 2 seconds to cut it back just enough to get it through. You might use a pair of cutters to cut the back off as much as possible, less for the drill to have to get through. I grab the back with pliers and squeeze, then twist, takes the head off and I only have to drill for one second to get it clean past the washer so it can come out.

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?/topic/20913-Removing-rivets/page__view__findpost__p__258390

[SpiceCredits]

I think your brow looks great but if you decide to remove the rivets here is a great walk through:

 

Removing rivets

Like you found out already, the drill bit will heat up the rivet, if you spend to much time drilling you will just melt the entire size of the rivet. Use a pair of pliers on the rounded head of the rivet to hold it steady and drill, use a sharp bit and only drill for 2 seconds, then wait 5, then 2 seconds, then wait 5, this way it doesn't heat up to much. It really should only take 2 seconds to cut it back just enough to get it through. You might use a pair of cutters to cut the back off as much as possible, less for the drill to have to get through. I grab the back with pliers and squeeze, then twist, takes the head off and I only have to drill for one second to get it clean past the washer so it can come out.

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?/topic/20913-Removing-rivets/page__view__findpost__p__258390

Thank you for this!! Part of it was just that I could not find a detailed tutorial on how to accomplish this. Gold star goes to you! 

 

Thanks for the compliment. I've talked with some people on my garrison's FB recruit page, and they seem to say about the same thing. They like it and for something that is preference, and arguably just fine "as"is", I'm not sure I want to risk doing that right now. Maybe later if I feel more comfortable. The more I look at it and see other Centurion helmets that resemble it I'm getting more used to it. I think part of it was just that it didn't look exactly as how I imagined, or wanted. lol But it's my best (and first) attempt, and I think it still looks awesome.

 

Thanks a lot for the advice and help!

[SpiceCredits]

Either way… I think it looks better than the eFX I have in my photo. lol I sold it to help pay for this kit. RIP

[Pyrates[TK]]

Anytime mate - Troopers helping Troopers Whoo - Wahh

[SpiceCredits]

No new photos yet.

Last night I didn't get much further on any other pieces. 

My ab buttons are atrocious. I've royally screwed them up. I'll send pics tonight. I'm thinking I may need a new pair. The funny thing is that it's like the easiest part of the build, right? lolol The issue is that I didn't think it through—at all. Instead of cutting the circles out of tape, and then placing the already cut mask on to the buttons to paint... I put the tape on the buttons and then cut the circle from that. It doesn't sound too bad at first, but the button circles I cut were over the 11mm diameter stated in the CRL. So I had to remove the paint and start over. Once the paint was removed, I noticed some leftover paint had seeped into the cuts made from the exacto used to cut the initial circles. I decided to clean and sand those down...it looked ok, and I covered the area in white paint to hide it. Moving on... I cut the circles out the right way and placed them on to the abs and repainted. Everything seemed fine until I removed the masks. I had some bleed, and promptly began to remove with thinner and toothpicks to clean up the edges, BUT color from the bleed began to seep into the areas that had been sanded... UGH! I am super frustrated that I messed it up so bad. 

The buttons are the right size, but around them looks bad. I guess I could paint white around them, but I'd have to almost paint most of the abs. I'm afraid the white from the paint may clash with the rest of the armor, and may be too glossy and look out of place (this is all speculation though). Should I do that, or just try to order a whole new set?? Does anyone sell just those parts? Are they expensive?

Kicking myself...

On a positive though... I used a blade and split my helmet foam in half, and it now fits well! 

 

Edited April 21, 2016 by SpiceCredits

[SpiceCredits]

My plans for tomorrow and Saturday (Won't get much done tonight) is to get the ab and kidney clam shell, cod rivet, and biceps and forearms assembled and ready for snap plates.

I'm ready to get this thing going, but then I realize the stupid little things I have done, and it makes me want to work slower. lol

[lucnak[TK]]

Hard to give you advice on the buttons. Perhaps some photos will give a better idea. There are a lot of things that I would either fix or redo completely in my build, but I wouldn't really have known when I was doing it, but they tend to be quite minor things that only I will know. The more obvious stuff...you may want to change. It's really up to you!

[SpiceCredits]

My snaps from Tandy Leather came in today.

The majority have their logo on them, which I have not seen used on any builds yet. Did they change them? Are they OK to use?

 

Luckily the set that I bought that included the setter has ones without the logo. Can I just use these for the snaps that can be seen on the armor, and use the ones that have the logo on the interior strapping? Is that OK?

[Pyrates[TK]]

You can cheat like I did and use the AP button decal sheet to act as a template to paint those buttons Just peel off, cut to size and center, then paint! Peel off decal template about 3 to 4 minutes after applying paint (or while it's still slightly wet)

[SpiceCredits]

Hard to give you advice on the buttons. Perhaps some photos will give a better idea. There are a lot of things that I would either fix or redo completely in my build, but I wouldn't really have known when I was doing it, but they tend to be quite minor things that only I will know. The more obvious stuff...you may want to change. It's really up to you!

I'll send photos tonight, so that you guys can see (and laugh) at them. Maybe you'll be able to find a work around that I haven't thought of as well. My only options now (that I know of) are to paint them with white gloss, or leave them looking bad (but painted ab buttons are present). I just hate that they are more-or-less dead-center around all this shiny plastic and may end up looking like a sore thumb. At the same time, I may be over-thinking and you guys might think they could pass. I sorta doubt it though. lol

 

Pics to com.

[MoSc0ut[TK]]

Here's a quick question while it's on my mind. I'll be painting tube stripes this weekend… Does anyone have a preference between painter's tape for masking and the Trooperbay masking templates? Is one better than the other in regards to paint bleed, or are they about equal in that aspect? I'll be laying dow a very light (almost dry brush) amount of white as a base to help, and letting that fully set before adding the blue.

If you haven't got around to them here's how I did mine. They turned out pretty great (I think so any way!)

In the first pic you can see the decals that came with my kit from Walt. First I cut some strips of my painters tape all narrow like. Then I taped the decal where I would have applied them. Then I made some dots on the painters tape either side where the stripes were. Removed the decal. Then I free handed a little curve with my liner brush all the way down. I let it dry for 45-60 min then pulled away the tape. I used Humbrol French Blue. Humbrol has a kind of rubber like consistency when it's setting up and not fully dry. If you pull it away too soon it gets all stringy and causes a bit of a mess. I had very minimal clean up and only in the spots where I tried to lightly score the paint with my xacto before pulling the tape(only did that on the side that's pictured here, the other side needed no clean up at all.

Edited April 22, 2016 by MoSc0ut

[MoSc0ut[TK]]

Here's the other side. This is the side that needed no clean up.

 

 

Jim

[Dougal[501st]]

Here's the other side. This is the side that needed no clean up.

 

 

Jim

I love this! Great idea! I am going to try this!!

[SpiceCredits]

If you haven't got around to them here's how I did mine. They turned out pretty great (I think so any way!)

In the first pic you can see the decals that came with my kit from Walt. First I cut some strips of my painters tape all narrow like. Then I taped the decal where I would have applied them. Then I made some dots on the painters tape either side where the stripes were. Removed the decal. Then I free handed a little curve with my liner brush all the way down. I let it dry for 45-60 min then pulled away the tape. I used Humbrol French Blue. Humbrol has a kind of rubber like consistency when it's setting up and not fully dry. If you pull it away too soon it gets all stringy and causes a bit of a mess. I had very minimal clean up and only in the spots where I tried to lightly score the paint with my xacto before pulling the tape(only did that on the side that's pictured here, the other side needed no clean up at all.

This is excellent! I love the idea. I'm seriously considering it. Thanks for sharing that!

[SpiceCredits]

Here is the pic of the ab buttons as promised. Looking at them now, they don't seem to be as bad as I may have described. But they aren't the prettiest, that's for sure. lol I feel like they are worse in person.

I think my option to touch them up is going to be white gloss. Thought? Good idea? Bad idea?

 

 

Also, I said I wasn't doing much tonight, but I decided to start putting my biceps together!

 

 

Edited April 22, 2016 by SpiceCredits

[spyder918]

Just my 2 cents but if you're using Humbrol paints they do tend to be thick and 'goopy'. My best results with Humbrol paints is to mix it with a bit of thinner. It goes on smoother and doesn't get all stringy when you remove tape. I believe Humbrol is an enamel paint so be sure to use thinner made for enamel paint.

[Troopacoola[TK]]

Just my 2 cents but if you're using Humbrol paints they do tend to be thick and 'goopy'. My best results with Humbrol paints is to mix it with a bit of thinner. It goes on smoother and doesn't get all stringy when you remove tape. I believe Humbrol is an enamel paint so be sure to use thinner made for enamel paint.

I agree. Humbrol is very thick and can set leaving stroke marks too. I always thin mine out when handpainting my models which removes the brush strokes. Lots of thin coats gives a better finish than one thick coat in my opinion.

 

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

[lucnak[TK]]

Gonna let someone with more painting experience reply to you on this one. Not sure how to advise you! You could potentially order new buttons and have those in the meantime for basic approval, hoping that it's okay, and then replace them once you get your new plates?

[Pyrates[TK]]

The excess paint can be removed with a q-tip dabbed lightly in paint thinner or mineral spirits

Edited April 22, 2016 by Pyrates

[SpiceCredits]

Just my 2 cents but if you're using Humbrol paints they do tend to be thick and 'goopy'. My best results with Humbrol paints is to mix it with a bit of thinner. It goes on smoother and doesn't get all stringy when you remove tape. I believe Humbrol is an enamel paint so be sure to use thinner made for enamel paint.

Thanks for the suggestion! The paint application wasn't really the culprit here. I had no problems with it on the helmet, or the actual painting of the buttons. It was really from how I prepped the job before painting, and then trying to fix, and then repainting and having the old issue interfere with the new paint. UGH. lol I can't believe how royally I screwed up the easiest piece. 

[MoSc0ut[TK]]

Just my 2 cents but if you're using Humbrol paints they do tend to be thick and 'goopy'. My best results with Humbrol paints is to mix it with a bit of thinner. It goes on smoother and doesn't get all stringy when you remove tape. I believe Humbrol is an enamel paint so be sure to use thinner made for enamel paint.

Sorry, spyder918 is correct. I left out that I have a piece of think card board, like what they make MRE boxes out of or what you find between the plastic covers of a three ring binder. I use it as a paint palette. Really you can use anything like an old cereal box, some people use plastic but I find things run on plastic. The cardboard will absorb a tiny bit of paint but not enough to matter. Personal preference really. You can see it in this photo. I take a little paint first and make a small "puddle" on the palette, 2-3 "dabs" of paint, then I dip the brush in my thinner and mix it with my puddle of paint to thin it out. I always have a small container of thinner separated from my "supply" bottle so I don't foul the "supply". I then keep an old plastic milk jug that I pour my dirty thinner in so I can dispose of it properly at the local paint store (or sometimes I forget about it and it's evaporated by morning! Oops). Good catch spyder!

[SpiceCredits]

Gonna let someone with more painting experience reply to you on this one. Not sure how to advise you! You could potentially order new buttons and have those in the meantime for basic approval, hoping that it's okay, and then replace them once you get your new plates?

Yea, I am just going to have to find a new pair and not start it the way I did. Looking back, that was just dumb and I wasn't paying attention or thinking about the result it would have caused. I'm sure I can find a pair in between all the other work I have left to do. I'll keep you guys posted!

[MoSc0ut[TK]]

Thanks for the suggestion! The paint application wasn't really the culprit here. I had no problems with it on the helmet, or the actual painting of the buttons. It was really from how I prepped the job before painting, and then trying to fix, and then repainting and having the old issue interfere with the new paint. UGH. lol I can't believe how royally I screwed up the easiest piece.

You could carefully sand the paint off and start over. Take it down to a thin layer then use thinner to get most of the rest off. Doesn't have to be perfect as you'll be covering it back up with paint again.