ukswrath[Staff] Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 Previous versions http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29534-helmet-electronics-and-external-power-supply-updated/ Generation 4 power supply update 4/12/16 Due to Anker discontinuing the Astro Pro 2 I updated the power supply used to run my helmet electronics. As you may know I also didn’t care for the Anker minimum mA draw required to sustain the output voltages. As good fortune may have it I found a suitable replacement that doesn’t require any special operation, just plug it in and go. The following illustrates what was replaced, upgraded or completely removed. Disclaimer: This information is provided for entertainment purposes only. Modifying any electrical component to be used for something other than it was intended may be hazardous. I DO NOT encourage or recommend you do so. Doing so you except full responsibility. Alright, with that out of the way let’s get to it. As mentioned above some components were replaced, upgraded or removed. In the parts list I will indicate changes in RED Parts: 1x Antigravity Mini (replacing Anker Astro Pro 2) $75 - http://www.amazon.com/Antigravity-Batteries-AG-XP-5-Multi-Function-Starter/dp/B00MYA6OCW?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00 1x Cat5e 3’ standard patch cable (replacing 3’ 8pin mini din cable) $11 – http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-5-Pack-Snagless-Ethernet/dp/B00C2CBBAM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00 or 2' https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XIFRSMC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 2x RJ45 extension cable, 1’ (replacing female mini din connector) $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FVRU3RM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1x USB right angle extension cable, 8” (updating current USB extension) $6 – http://www.amazon.com/UCEC-USB-2-0-Extension-Cable/dp/B00W9BAAXK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00 1x 9v voltage regulator L7809CV (for ROM/FX conversion) $.56 – http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/stmicroelectronics/L7809CV/497-1448-5-ND/585969 1x 7.4v Voltage regulator L78S75CV (for Amp 2 (aker) conversion) $.91 - http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/stmicroelectronics/L78S75CV/497-14164-ND/1663449 1x 5v Voltage Regulator (though not mentioned in the tutorial it's used with the hearing aid) $.44 - http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/stmicroelectronics/L7805CV/497-1443-5-ND/585964 22AWG connectors 10 pairs $6 (x2) - http://www.amazon.co...AWG 150mm Cable Heat Shrink kit - http://www.amazon.co...heat shrink kit Inline fuse holder and 5A fuse: Inline fuse holder - http://www.amazon.com/1st-Source-In-line-Fuse-Holder/dp/B0002KR8EE/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1462199662&sr=8-23&keywords=inline+fuse+holder 5amp AGC fuse - http://www.amazon.com/Quality-brand-Fast-Blow-6X30mm-SHIPPING/dp/B009NTSRFO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1462200118&sr=8-6&keywords=AGC+5A+fuse Other components: Ukswrath SHA (hearing assist) $60 – http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32487-ukswraths-stormtrooper-hearing-assist-system/ Ukswrath Hovi Audio system with iComm $260 - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31436-fs-Ukswraths-hovi-mic-tips-with-speakers-crl-accurate-tips **NOTE: The iComm does not need any modifying it has it's own battery source** Ukswrath cooling kit - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35994-ukswraths-cooling-fan-kits/ Echo's personalized bracket (no fans, with extra on/off switches) $32 - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24372-fs-helmet-fan-system-echos/ 5v Cooling fans $6 – Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/Vktech-Brushless-Cooling-0-1-0-3A-50x15mm/dp/B00EL938E6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1419394826&sr=1-1&keywords=Vktech+5Pcs+Black+Brushless, Ebay - http://www.ebay.com/itm/261690004729?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT 1x Omni-directional microphone $20 – Ear phones/buds $30 - http://www.amazon.co...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1 or equivalent. ROM/FX $160 - http://www.romfx.com/ "Power Supply" "Helmet" Assembly Starting with the battery. Remove the battery cable clamps and installed the inline fuse holder and 5A fuse. Remove female connector from USB extension cable Split the insulation and separate the wires. On a typical USB 2.0 terminal the outer most terminals are the 5v positive and negative. The color code is generally red, white, black & green. Red and white are generally +&-, the green and black are data. Since we won't be using the data we'll trim those back. Carefully install the USB into the battery pack and test the wires for battery voltage. Note; You may have to manually power on the device if it doesn't automatically detect your meter and power on. Mark the harness and note down indicating the power source. Now take the RJ45 female connector and removed the male side, split the insulation exposing the wires. NOTE: This particular cable manufacturer, like many others may not follow any particular color code scheme or may even switch color code at times. Understanding what you’re looking at is the key here. I highly suggest you read up on data connection cabling, specifically Cat5 since that’s what I’m using. After peeling back the insulation I proceeded to connect the wires as per the “Power Supply” diagram. Afterwards I confirmed the output voltage. At the same time if you plan on installing any audio pass through (use the the other unused wires for audio or other) install the other connectors as well as per the wiring schematic. Be sure to install shrink wrap as you'll be covering the bare connections along the way. Once finished heat shrink the whole bundle. To test the battery and harness output I installed a spare RJ45 patch cable with exposed wiring the using a volt meter tested voltage output and resistance through the audio connectors (not shown) Helmet power supply harness Similar to the helmet harness I peeled back the second RJ45 female connector and connected the helmet harness connector as per the wiring schematic. Connect the helmet power supply harness to the existing helmet component harness and confirmed fan and SHA operation. Amp 2 Installing voltage regulator Just a friendly reminder, you're doing this at your own risk. FYI, this voids any and all warranties lol PCB and Voltage 7.4v regulator. I started by locating the battery pins and marking which terminal was + and -. Afterwards I removed the battery supply pins. Prepare to install voltage regulator. Install regulator Install the battery supply harness Check input voltage to AMP 2 PCB. before the regulator it 12v, PCB voltage is 7.5v Installing ROM/FX 9v voltage regulator Locate and mark battery source terminals Remove original battery wiring. Install new regulator After attaching the battery supply harness test input on PCM voltages. Helmet battery supply harness installed Checking components (Amp 2 if FO TK bucket). Battery supply placed in three different locations on my FOTK Chest Left forward pouch Left rear pouch On the OT TK you can vecro it to your chest plate. Enjoy 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 For those of us who have the Amp 2 and ICOMM from you, we do NOT need a regulator for the ICOMM, just the AMP 2, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted April 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 For those of us who have the Amp 2 and ICOMM from you, we do NOT need a regulator for the ICOMM, just the AMP 2, correct? Correct. The iComm is self powered hence the reason when the battery goes dead internally they quit working. FYI for the masses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 OK, I thought I remember you saying that. You might want to put an asterisks on the first post so it's loud and clear. Looking forward to doing this soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted April 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 OK, I thought I remember you saying that. You might want to put an asterisks on the first post so it's loud and clear. Looking forward to doing this soon! Which part? The iComm not needing to be converted or the battery will eventually go dead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 No mods necessary for the iComm itself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenec Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 Tony - thank you for all of your research and expertise. This is a great thread. Question - is it necessary to drop the voltage to 9v for the ROM/FX? I seem to remember that it can take 12 volts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted April 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 Tony - thank you for all of your research and expertise. This is a great thread. Question - is it necessary to drop the voltage to 9v for the ROM/FX? I seem to remember that it can take 12 volts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Your are correct, ROM/FX states it can take 9v or 12v. Mine came with a 9v battery pack, so I'm personally more comfortable with 9v. Thanks for the question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenec Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 Are your Hovi tip speakers compatible with the ROM/FX or would I need to make some modifications? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted April 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 Are your Hovi tip speakers compatible with the ROM/FX or would I need to make some modifications? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk It's exactly what I use in two of my helmets, rom/FX and my hovis Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djrue[TK] Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 Dibs on your old harness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted April 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 Dibs on your old harness Noted 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
virimpact Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 This is my hearing aid. Takes 3-AA batteries. I'm assuming I won't need a regulator for it, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted April 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 If you add it to the 5v system you should be ok. Just don't run fans off the same system or you may get the old car radio whining sound. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
virimpact Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 Cool!!! Great Tutorial!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
virimpact Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 I noticed in your schematic you have your hearing aid running on the 12v, along with your AMP 2 & ROM/FX. I have your AMP 2, my hearing aid & No ROM (nor icomm). Would that work? Sorry, new to this. Hehehe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RafZwicke Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 (edited) Hi....i am new to this forum. I am an electronics hardware design engineer and and have pretty knowledge about what you are sharing here. I would like to say thanks for sharing your work here. It looks a really very helpful information. I am also planning to build the same like thing,I noticed your hearing aid running on the 12v, along with your AMP 2 & ROM/FX. It is very inetresting. But i will find any other solution. IC programming Edited April 22, 2016 by RafZwicke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted April 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 Hi....i am new to this forum. I am an electronics hardware design engineer and and have pretty knowledge about what you are sharing here. I would like to say thanks for sharing your work here. It looks a really very helpful information. I am also planning to build the same like thing,I noticed your hearing aid running on the 12v, along with your AMP 2 & ROM/FX. It is very inetresting. But i will find any other solution Hello RafZwicke, welcome to the FISD. Thank you for your kinds words. Any improvements you may have feel free to share them. Making a better system for those interested in such things is our goal here. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted April 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 I noticed in your schematic you have your hearing aid running on the 12v, along with your AMP 2 & ROM/FX. I have your AMP 2, my hearing aid & No ROM (nor icomm). Would that work? Sorry, new to this. Hehehe The hearing units I sell will work yes because they have a voltage regulator built on to the PCB. The AMP 2 no, not without installing a voltage regulator as illustrated above. Hope this answers your question 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjdesign[TK] Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 (edited) If you add it to the 5v system you should be ok. Just don't run fans off the same system or you may get the old car radio whining sound. I tested this out... added a usb to this hearing amp and got lots of humming, static, etc - when plugged into the Anker. When I plugged into standard 12v outlet via the usb, the humming goes away. Just tested with both fans and hearing on the same battery, like Tony mentioned, lots of fan whining noises. Edited April 13, 2016 by cjdesign 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted April 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 I tested this out... added a usb to this hearing amp and got lots of humming, static, etc - when plugged into the Anker. When I plugged into standard 12v outlet via the usb, the humming goes away. Thanks for your input. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjdesign[TK] Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 Sale!! Just purchased a Antigravity Mini on amazon for $58 bucks - http://www.amazon.co...ailpage_o04_s00 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted April 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 Sale!! Just purchased a Antigravity Mini on amazon for $58 bucks - http://www.amazon.co...ailpage_o04_s00 Cool, couldn't pass that up and bought a spare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
virimpact Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 Cool, couldn't pass that up and bought a spare. Ordered 2 as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted April 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 Amazon sales are going through the roof CHA CHING!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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