Here comes another, Kevin's E11pipe build

[kevin926]

First coat of paint on the aluminum scratch build. Now its really starting to look like something.

next step is to start beating up some parts of the paint before I spray on the wrinkle paint. I want it to have that repainted look. I have 3 coats plus a clear coat of primer on it now so it should have enough depth in the paint. 

 

I also just ordered a resin bolt and charging handle for Dday. I am seriously considering buying the spring set up from Apex.

[Pretzel]

I envy this. Well done sir.

[usaeatt2]

I am seriously considering buying the spring set up from Apex.

 

If you buy real springs from Apex, you'll have enough spring for two or possibly three blasters because you'll need to cut the springs down to reduce the amount of force they place on resin parts.  I'd grab the muzzle screws too - last time I checked, they were only $2 and the cross hatch pattern is unlike anything you'll find at a hardware store.

 

Great build!  That folding stock looks totally legit!!!

[kevin926]

If you buy real springs from Apex, you'll have enough spring for two or possibly three blasters because you'll need to cut the springs down to reduce the amount of force they place on resin parts. I'd grab the muzzle screws too - last time I checked, they were only $2 and the cross hatch pattern is unlike anything you'll find at a hardware store.

 

Great build! That folding stock looks totally legit!!!

Thanks Aaron, I actually have the real muzzle screws from Apex already. I bought them when I got the real handle grip. Also bought the grip screw that goes on the bottom. I will wait until I get my bolt and charging handle from Dday and see how it goes before I make any decisions with the spring. I have already been strongly referencing TJAYs bolt assembly to help guide me through that step. Question. What is the Guage of the wire used to make the spring. Don't forget, I also bought your spring cup that will be utilized here as well.

[kevin926]

I envy this. Well done sir.

Thank you. It feels really good to see this with the first coat of paint on it. I'm trying to keep myself grounded and not rush through the final paint job. I would like to finish the base sterling before adding the E11 modifications, as well as finishing the pvc/resin build for my son.

[usaeatt2]

Kevin,

 

Outer spring = 0.75" or about 14 gauge

Inner spring = 0.65" or about 15 gauge

[kevin926]

I just added the wrinkle paint. Living in hot sunny Florida, I have the heat advantage.

 

Then I hung them in my shed and I will see them in a few days.

You can already so the wrinkles coming through. I cant wait to weather this thing.

[kevin926]

Now onto some sad news. My son won't let me weather his blaster. He wants his to look new and shiny

[Thrawn's guard]

Amazing work Kevin your hard work has really paid off.

[T-Jay[TK]]

If your son wants his blaster to look new and shiny, at least that means less work for you

 

Maybe he changes his mind when he sees your weathered blaster...

[kevin926]

If your son wants his blaster to look new and shiny, at least that means less work for you

 

Maybe he changes his mind when he sees your weathered blaster...

I guess thats one way to look at it, however being clean and shiny also means this will show all imperfections so it may be more work. Either way it will be fun but this now means I will have to repaint my scope and counter because I plan on using bull dogs scope and maybe a better counter for the aluminum scratch build. Time will tell.

[kevin926]

So today is the day, the paint is ready. As soon as I got home, I found myself being pulled to the shed to retrieve my blaster. Very happy with the end result but immediately began to knock the paint down and begin the aging process. I used some small files to get down to bare metal in some spots, and sanding sponges to create the wear look. I then began to dry brush some areas as well as washing in other areas. Tomorrow I will head over to my local hobby shop and get some other paints to really weather this thing. I was contemplating on bringing this in because I'm friends with the shop keepers, however I believe a little heads up would be better seeing how they are train guys and may get a little uneasy seeing me walk in with a sterling. (lol)

 

Any way, like a little kid, I found myself putting it back together and playing with it. So much for staying grounded. Here are some photos, and please. Any advise would be great and much appreciated.

still in the aging process and not finished yet. Just wanted to share.

[count chocula]

Looks great. I wish I was there. It seems like you're getting that first glimpse of light at the end of the tunnel.

[kevin926]

Looks great. I wish I was there. It seems like you're getting that first glimpse of light at the end of the tunnel.

I have to admit that scratch building one is actually less work than digging out and detailing the resin parts (and alot less messy)and being all metal is also easier to weather because I can get down to bare metal without having to try and recreate the real metal look. I'm getting closer to finishing the scratch build base sterling. Once I do, I'm finishing the pvc/resin in its entirety. Then I will go back to this one and begin to add the E11 modifications.

[kevin926]

Some more weathering. I am going for more of an aged look rather than beat up. I think I'm there. Just missing the bolt. You can see the difference with the paint by looking at the magazine because it hasn't been weathered yet. I'm left handed so I tried to wear down the area where my hand my rub off the paint where I would slide the charging handle.

 

When it comes to weathering, it is so easy to over do it. I felt I was getting close, so I am going to stop. There is on more technique I may try and that is to clear coat the entire gun and water down some paint, and basically do a quick wash and wipe. This will enhance the detail a bit, so I'm not sure I will do it.

[kevin926]

I weathered the magazine however I will spare you that update and post it when I finish the sterling base build. I ordered a bolt and handle from Dday so while I'm waiting, I went back to the pvc/resin kit. I kind of messed up while installing the muzzle and didn't put a barrel on it. It was already glued in place so I decided to work with what I had. Being a service electrician, I come across all sorts of chain and rods used for lights. I had a perfect size rod that fits in the opening of the muzzle to recreate the barrel. I drilled out the opening and made a piece to sit inside the receiver. A little crude but will do the trick and wont be seen anyway because its deep inside the receiver and covered by the bolt that wont move once installed. I also put the rca jacks in place for the lever, and cleaned out the side guard. I may just order another site from themainthesuitcase instead of making one. I liked his and used it on the aluminum scratch build already.

These are the jacks I used for the resin kit and the rotary switch will be for my scratch build lever.

I know its more accurate to use a position or rotary switch however I didn't want to take the chance on my son pushing too hard and breaking it so I went with the jack. He can still turn it and it wont break this way.

my cleaned out protector.

You can also notice the front may look a little different. I really was unhappy with the look of the doopy muzzle attached to the receiver. Aaron spoiled me with his and his looked so clean and natural on the aluminum that this doopy muzzle  just wouldn't do. I decided to try and pull it out just a tad and use filler to feather the muzzle into the receiver. It looks better than it did but I will update that part later on when I am satisfied with it.

 

 

I know it narrowed the inside a tad, but this will do. If you look closely inside the receiver you can see the barrel end.

Thoughts?

[kevin926]

Onto the magazine. Kind of disapointing after working with Graz's magazine. His is so clean and precise and for some reason even though alot of the doopy kit is really nice, they skimped on some parts, and this magazine is one of them.

 

Heres Graz

Here's Doopy's

You can see, I already made some reference marks in pencil so I didn't mess up. I filed down the edges and used an LED light bulb as well as filed down an area to add green stuff and mark the "off and arrow"  I know the light bulb is a little smaller but it will do. Still better than if left alone.

I also added some magnets to the receiver and bottom of the magazine for fun. I may have to rethink this or my son my loose the magazine but we will see.

 

And while I had the green stuff out, I detailed the site guard.

[kevin926]

I went ahead and scratch made the site, mounted it, and installed the site protector. Here are some shots of the end result. More important is the view of the muzzle. I made mention i want happy with the look of the doopy muzzle so I used some filler to feather the muzzle into the reciever.

I would like some feedback on this approach. Clearly I'm not the first to have issues with the doopy muzzle on a pvc build.

[SlyFox740[TK]]

I recommend Aaron's resin cast muzzle cap with rolled edge.

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35572-resin-e-11-barrel-spring-cup-muzzle-runs/?p=466644#entry466644'>http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35572-resin-e-11-barrel-spring-cup-muzzle-runs/?p=466644#entry466644
 

Edited May 29, 2016 by SlyFox740

[kevin926]

I recommend Aaron's resin cast muzzle cap with rolled edge. <br><br>

<a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35572-resin-e-11-barrel-spring-cup-muzzle-runs/?p=466644#entry466644'>http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35572-resin-e-11-barrel-spring-cup-muzzle-runs/?p=466644#entry466644</a>

Aarons muzzle is already being used on my scratch build shown above and almost finished. Even his muzzel doesn't match up with pvc. The pvc edges are too thick. I believe this can be an opportunity for the resin suppliers to recreate a muzzel that is rolled and can sit on top of the pvc builds. Hard to explain in words but image a mushroom shaped muzzle if you will.

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Aarons muzzle is already being used on my scratch build shown above and almost finished. Even his muzzel doesn't match up with pvc. The pvc edges are too thick. I believe this can be an opportunity for the resin suppliers to recreate a muzzel that is rolled and can sit on top of the pvc builds. Hard to explain in words but image a mushroom shaped muzzle if you will.

 

 

Oh I see, I didn't realize you were already using that muzzle cap. What about this one from eBay? it's hard black plastic not resin and it's from SWpropman he makes really accurate casts of Hengstler Counters, Hovi Mic tips and other things. I actually own one of these muzzle caps already so I have one laying around. I can measure it for you if you'd like? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Star-Wars-38-1mm-Sterling-SMG-Mark4-L2A3-Stormtrooper-E11-Blaster-Muzzle-/262324234506?hash=item3d13be290a:g:5LkAAOSwoudW3fEQ

Edited May 29, 2016 by SlyFox740

[kevin926]

I did see that one. Looks like he has some nice stuff. It did state in his listing that all his sterling parts are for 38mm so none of the parts will fit the 40mm receiver. The filler made it look much better but I am trying to see others that faced the same issue. Truth be told, if it wasn't for me using Aarons muzzle on my other build, it probably wouldn't bother me as much. But seeing how nice Aarons was just jaded the doopy.

Edited May 29, 2016 by kevin926

[MoSc0ut[TK]]

I scratch built a muzzle for use on a PVC pipe build and then made a resin copy of it because I'm building at least two PVC blasters for me and my son. When I get home tonight I'll measure the OD of it and if it fits and you like what you see I can send you one. Here's a picture of the two parts I cast for making my "budget" blaster.

 

 

One of the bolts moved on me while casting. I plan to make a better mold of the muzzle, sans bolts. Originally I was just casting the grip when I ended up with quite a bit of left over casting silicone. Because that stuff is spendy, I grabbed the first thing I could think of to make a copy of and I apparently didn't have enough glue holding one of the bolts in place. I plan to drill out the bolts and use real ones any way.

 

 

 

Jim

[MoSc0ut[TK]]

Here is my meager attempt at a sterling muzzle sized to fit my PVC pipe which is just a tad over 40mm.

 

 

 

It's not perfect but it does have the great price of $free.99! I'm sure with your amazing skills you could make it work and clean it up to make it believe able.

 

Soon I will be cleaning up the master and making it a little more accurate then recasting it. I had to work with what I have as I blew most of my $ on the armor!

 

If you want me to send one your way shoot me a PM with your address.

 

 

Jim

[nmcguff]

Check out my thread for 3D printed E-11 blaster parts. I have a muzzle end for 40mm 1.25" pvc pipe. The models were created using a deactivated Sterling L2A3 i own along with a real M38A2 scope and Hengstler counter.

 

The files are free and if you have access to a 3d printer you can have one in a short time or order from any online 3d printing service. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31703-e-11-blaster-3d-printed-parts/