TFA Z6 Stormtrooper Riot Baton 3D Model Build......this may take a while

[Artshot]

Okay, so here’s my plan, I am going to try and build a 3d printable “Z6 Riot Baton” as used by fan favourite “FN-2199”

 

I have spent a lot of time gathering reference and trying to determine details and sizes of the “Z6 Riot Baton” which until somebody gets their hands on the actual prop to take measurements, is all going to be best guess.

 

I adopted the approach that the prop makers had to start somewhere in the real world and began looking for the base, I believe the real world origin of the “Z6” is the “PR-24 Expandable Side Handle Baton” which measures 24 inches in length (rounded to 610mm).

 

So, here’s what I have so far (I am going to be making up words to describe certain parts, this keeps it straight in my head):-

 

From the tip of the internal body of the “Z6”, the rounded “Shock” end, I am assuming the baton could be used in two configurations, with the “Deflectors” housed I think the rounded end would work like a cattle prod, to the rear of the “Stock” end steel stud I am going to call it at 610mm.

 

I am going to construct the 3d model in multiple sections:-

 

Section 1 - The “Stock”, this will include the “Grip” and everything from the flat rear end that the rear “Stud” attaches to, forward to the area just forward of the two black triangles (x2).

 

Section 1A - The front end of the “Stock” will be hollowed out to allow the “Shaft” to slide in a distance, I will be making the two black triangles (x2) as separate pieces that push into the main part of the “Stock”, there will be holes in the “Stock” and “Shaft” that will allow these parts to be bolted together.

 

Section 1B – After looking over specs on the “PR-24 Baton” I believe the small black button on the edge of the “Stock” that will be under the users forearm is for collapsing or unlocking the “Deflectors” from the active position, on the “PR-24 Baton” it’s used to unlock the extended part of the baton and allow it to be pushed back into the main “Shaft”.

 

Section 1C – I am planning on making the black “Spine” area and the inner black areas as part of the “Stock”, however I may utilise the inner black area on the “Stock” as an electronics/battery compartment, being fixed in place by two screws into the main “Shaft”, the little black button can then be used as a power button for the “Shaft” red lights.

 

Section 1D – The grip has been a pain to try and figure out, currently approx 130mm in length by 30mm wide, I have tried so far to incorporate somebody wearing gloves and different size hands, the button is currently approx 20mm wide, I am still undecided about the “Pommel” on the grip, it’s on the Hot Toys figure, but not the photo from the visual reference book.

 

Section 2 – The “Shaft”, this will be all one part, so far I am thinking about extending the last “Light Section” by as much as the “3 Light Section” length,at the “Shock” end (3-4-4-4-3), the last end will then slide into the “Stock” to be fixed by the bolts through the black triangle area (covered by the black triangles) .

 

Section 2A – Each silver “Clip” will be part of the “Shaft”, however I want to make them over hang the black “Central Light Area” by 2 or 3mm, so that there is a slot running up the length of the “Shaft”.

 

Section 2B – The interior black “Central Light Area” will be recessed from the main body of the “Shaft” by approx 2 or 3mm, each “Red Light” hole will be all the way through the main body of the “Shaft” to ease fitting of red LED lights, I am hoping that a separate strip of 2 or 3mm clear Perspex (purchased separately) will be able to be slid along the recessed black area, underneath each “Clip” and end up inside the “Stock”, being fixed in place via the bolts through the main “Shaft” body.

 

Section 3 – The “Deflectors” I have rough ideas of how to approach constructing these parts but still working out some details and finding reference on there underside.

 

So, that’s where I stand so far, admittedly I have done more thinking than constructing at this time, it’s less time consuming to think.

 

Here are a few things I realised when thinking about this project:-

1) The “Deflectors” are released via a wrist flick and swing from the rear to the front and lock straight out.

2) I have no clue about wiring this thing up.

3) I have no clue about internal mechanisms for activating the “Deflectors”

 

And this is where the FISD can step in:-

1) Do you have any thoughts on the design?

2) If you know about wiring things up like the lights that are involved, should I provide channels in the model for wires and such ?, I will be trying to make large areas hollow to reduce 3d printing cost, but there may be specific areas that will benefit from being made ready for wiring.

3) Any thoughts on the internal mechanics, especially the “Deflectors” unlock, swing, lock, unlock and lock, I suppose it could be done by hand, but where would the fun be in that.

 

I know there will be lots of other details that I will need to be considered during the build, but it should be fun to do.

 

I have decided to do this as personal pet project and have set myself no deadline (stupid work keeps getting in the way of all the fun stuff), whilst I will try and finish it to the best of my ability, there is no guarantee of a timeframe, I tend to get distracted unless paying attention……..ooohh Squirrel!!!

 

Oh and in the spirit of “Troopers Helping Troopers”, should I finish this model to an acceptable standard….IT’S FREE!!!!!!

 

Anyway, to show I have actually made a start, here’s the “Grip” as it stands so far, with a “cutaway” to show the type of internal spaces I will be leaving, to reduce production costs and aid in fitting out with all the great ideas this group is known for.

 

Enjoy!!

 

 

 

As an aside, if you look at the cutaway model, that's how 3d models for printing have to be constructed, imagine it as a Jello mold with no internal structure and once you realise that solid is plastic and plastic is money then more open spaces, less cost.

 

As usual any and all input is welcome

Edited March 14, 2021 by gmrhodes13
photos updated gmrhodes13 2021

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Can't wait to see more on this. Best of luck and thanks always for doing things in the spirit of troopers hoping troopers!

[Topgun[TK]]

Awesome!!!

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

How about some EL wire for the electrical bolts?

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

You have too much space between each ring of the handle. Also the activation button and steps underneath don't look right to me. The original seems a bit more complex to me.

 

And hollowing parts is a good thing to do, but you have to think about print orientation first for it to work with FDM printers, and not only through SLS printing. Right now the way your handle is hollowed would work with FDM only if you print the handle standing on top of the activation button.

An easy way to correct that would be to split the activation button from the handle, and make the two parts interlock with each other.

[Artshot]

@ Brian & Tyler, thanks for the encouragement, hopefully something useful will come of this

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Artshot]

@ Vern, interesting idea, the connection for the EL or Fibre Optic cable would have to come up the connecting tube between "Deflectors", maybe a spiderweb of bolts then recessed into each "Deflector" so that when holstered they would appear smooth, but on activation they would light up, I think somebody who knows what there doing with this type of thing will need to step in later, I can build it, wiring it......no clue

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Artshot]

@ Germain, thanks for the input, that's exactly why I put my v1 grip up

 

The rings on the grip are a pain, and only having fuzzy online images don't help (if you have the book could I trouble you for high res images ?)

 

The more I look I am not even certain the chamfer I have is correct, I think it's more likely an angle flat chamfer with no internal showing, sort of "V" shaped notches all the way along the grip.

 

The button is wrong diffrent, I think I over compensated for the limitations of "Shapeways" printing, will hope to improve accuracy on V2

 

I was looking at a "pushable" button, making it with a lip at the bottom to stop it flying off, however this would need a retaining type of ring to be built and some sort of plug to stop it disappearing into the grip when pressed.

 

Whilst I wanted the grip to be part of the "Stock" as this area will suffer the most stress, I think for ease in printing and "kitting it out" with all sorts of goodies, it will need to be separate, might need to include pins & holes for easy line up.

 

Print orientation is always a challenge, whilst I love 3D printing, they still cannot print over a void, pah...useless

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Edited February 25, 2016 by Artshot

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Here's the best I can do for the reference pictures from the Visual Dictionary. Unfortunately I don't have a scanner, and only have a terrible camera on my phone...

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Edited March 14, 2021 by gmrhodes13
link not working, removed gmrhodes13 2021

[Artshot]

Thanks for those Germain

The more I look at the reference the more I think that each grip segment has a 45 degree chamfer into another chamfer, no interior area showing, I think the grip would have been made on a lathe, which confirms it to me.

 

After a quick calculation and a few tubes of paper the grip will be 30mm at its widest part and 136mm from base to button top, I measured against my own hand (including gloves), whilst I don't have bear paws, there not small either

 

The button is now going to be a separate component, as is the last part of the grip, that should make adding a switch, wiring and Spring, a lot easier, I will incorporate pegs to line it up correctly on assembly, I hate having to drill out areas when putting things together so if I can make that problem go away, I will.

 

Thanks again for the photos and observations, at this stage everything helps

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Glad to have been of any help. 3D modelling is FUN . (well most of the time!)

I haven't done this one because as much as I like the idea, like the scene, and like the fight, I'm not a fan of the prop at all. But I'll be watching your progress with interest.

Edited February 25, 2016 by The5thHorseman

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Looking forward to the build

[Artshot]

After a productive few hours (more than a few) and looking over the better quality reference Germain supplied, may I present V2 of the Z6 Riot Baton grip, I scrapped what went before and incorporated a few things that I think will make it better when it's constructed and more importantly and hopefully, somebody decides to wire it up .......anyway, here's some pictures to look at.

 

As I hope you can see (after I had a fight with Tapatalk about showing images, wish the Ipad problem was sorted), each piece should interlock, the corresponding insert/plug for the grip will be built into the "Stock" and therefore improve the strength of this area when assembled.

 

Enjoy.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Edited March 14, 2021 by gmrhodes13
photos updated gmrhodes13 2021

[Topgun[TK]]

I love mechanized props!

[stukatrooper]

fantastic start Art

[Artshot]

I had a few hours today to work on the main "Stock" of the Z6, I thought it would be easy, but it wasn't, especially since I am trying to use photo reference of the prop and not the toy.

 

I have made a best guess at how the "Grip" area looks on the "Stock", I basically continued the tube shape into the body (that was a pain), making a paper template I have estimated the length from the inside area of the "Stock" to be 200mm long, that makes the length fit into the forearm, closer to the elbow like the prop and not the wrist, like the toy.

 

The smaller of the two ends is where the 2 black triangles will go, which I will use as a fixing points.

 

Anyway, as usual, here's some pictures to look at.

 

 

 

 

 

 

While looking at the images I think the grip may be a bit too long, not sure until I get further into the build.

 

As always, any and all comments are welcome.

Edited March 14, 2021 by gmrhodes13
photos updated gmrhodes13 2021

[Topgun[TK]]

You could uses a screendoor type spring to deploy the blade.

[Artshot]

Being a picky (polite word for it) type of person, the more I looked at the model so far, the more I did not like some of the proportions, there was nothing else for it...........Start Again.

 

I reduced the width of the "Grip" and reduced it's overall length, it now fits comfortably in the hand and will have enough clearance so it will be able to spun without catching on any forearm armor, I also reduced the overall size of the "Stock" as it was looking too bulky and would look oversized attached to a thigh, never mind used in the hand.

 

So, may I present Z6 Riot Baton V2....

 

 

I am more happy about the size of the "Stock" now and am happy to move onto the other parts, I extended a rough of the internal "Shaft" to see how it would fit, this part will slide into the "Stock" and be fixed in place by two bolts behind/under the Black Triangles on the "Stock".

 

Enjoy.

Edited March 14, 2021 by gmrhodes13
photos updated gmrhodes13 2021

[dak[TK]]

Following your build.

[Artshot]

I have managed to find a few hours to do some more work on the Z6 baton, this time concentrating on the attachment points for the "Shaft".

 

As you can see in the picture I have indented the areas where the 4 triangular buttons will go, this will help placement and hopefully help when attaching them, I also created holes that go through the "Stock", then through the "Shaft", I sunk a pocket into the "Stock" to allow the "Shaft" a better fitting, the pocket depth will allow the "Shaft" to have a stop and give better stability.

 

Initially I was thinking that bolts could be put through the holes to lock the pieces together, however I am now thinking that creating a plug on the reverse of each triangular button might do the job better.

 

 

 

As you can see these two holes in the "Shaft" will correspond to the holes in the "Stock", I have also created a stepped inner area to allow a 2mm strip of Perspex to be slid down the length to the end, this should protect whatever is used to light up the red lighted spots, I created the bands on the "Shaft" in a way that they will keep the Perspex flush against the "Shaft".

 

 

Just a few more pictures of a mock up of the assembly so far.

 

 

I have had thoughts on the rest of the modelling :-

 

Each hole in the "Shaft" will have a 1mm countersink to allow a small disk of red to be put in as a light cover.

 

The "Shaft" is going to be hollow to allow wiring of any lights that get put in the "Shaft", each hole will have a channel into the main shaft.

 

The End of the "Shaft" will need to be a separate piece as the length is coming close to the maximum size of printing, the end will have a hollow to allow a light.

 

The internal support for the "Grip" will be hollow to allow for wiring.

 

At this stage I will hollow out as much as I can to reduce costs and fitting of interior components.

 

Here's where I am asking for suggestions from anybody who would build the Z6, if you were going to fit it out with lights or anything else (the FISD is well known for taking authenticity to the next level), what do you need, where should there be hollows, I am hoping that anybody building this would not need to drill or cut anything out, as much as I can I want it to be able to be assembled by anybody.

 

Anyway, as always, Any and All feedback is welcome.

 

Enjoy.

Edited March 14, 2021 by gmrhodes13
photos updated gmrhodes13 2021

[dak[TK]]

Looking good so far

[Artshot]

Evening All

 

Just thought I would post a little more progress on my Z6 Baton build.

 

 

Here's where the build is at the moment, I constructed the tazer end of the baton as a separate piece to more easily allow the fitting out of any electronics or lights, this single piece took more time to get right than the rest of the modelling, simply put, it was a pain in the behind trying to get an accurate shape as it curves in two directions at the same time.

 

Even then I am having problems getting the end hole to project through the piece, so rather than give up in frustration, I am leaving that to whoever builds this thing to decide if they want to drill it out and fit a light or just silver the centre of the end circle to give an impression of light.

 

While I was at it I have put the light holes through the "Shaft" for any lights or if your not going to do that, then you can fit red discs into the recessed holes.

 

And just because I thought it looked cool, here's a shot of the insides of the baton, I have created hollows to cut printing and reduce weight, with the added bonus of a central conduit up the inside of the "Shaft" to allow for easier wiring for lights.

 

 

Incidentally, the separate pieces are what will be printed, the assembled model is just for me to get scale and positioning correct.

 

Enjoy.

Edited March 14, 2021 by gmrhodes13
photos updated gmrhodes13 2021

[tk60708[TK]]

nice

[Predatormv[501st]]

Looks good.

[djrue[TK]]

Looks pretty good so far.