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Posted

I wasn't planning on cutting my TD and was worried it wouldn't look right, but it looks fine. Still not decided if I want to chop the 1/4" mainly as the chop saw is at the bottom of a very large pile of boxes.

Posted

I wasn't planning on cutting my TD and was worried it wouldn't look right, but it looks fine. Still not decided if I want to chop the 1/4" mainly as the chop saw is at the bottom of a very large pile of boxes.

I would be very weary of cutting a cylindrical plastic shape on a chop saw Chris.

If you do decide to cut it measure back and put pencil lines at intervals around the pipe, then wrap a piece of masking tape around the pipe lined up with the marks and cut it with a dremel cutting disc but test the speed to make sure it doesn't melt it.

Chop saws can be ok if the piece is well clamped, difficult with a round slippery object, also if the tooth size is too big on the saw it could shatter the plastic.

I have cut pvc plumbing pipes with my dremel in the past and it was very accurate and didn't take that long either  :duim:

  • Like 1
Posted

Ab buttons painted last night,

Happy with the results  :)

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

Your buttons look really good. Did you just freehand or use a template? I freehanded mine and they don't look so good :)

  • Like 1
Posted

Your buttons look really good. Did you just freehand or use a template? I freehanded mine and they don't look so good :)

I used a circle stencil and a sharp pencil then used the pencil line as a guide to paint up to, oh and a good quality brush too!

Posted

Been doing a test fit of the arms but I think I may have to leave a bigger gap than the suggested 1/4"(6mm) gap between the forearm and bicep pieces as that seem too small for my arms.

I think the gap will need to be a lot more for two reasons; firstly if I bring the bicep just under the shoulder bell then the forearm doesn't cover enough of my wrist, and secondly If I bring the forearm down around my wrist, the top of the bicep isn't covered by the shoulder bell.

I wonder how much gap I could leave and still be passible for possible centurion (if I go that route)?

Has anyone else had this problem?

 

I noticed when I was test fitting that my biceps pieces are way too wide also so ripped them apart earlier and trimmed them down which will help bring the shoulder bells in closer to the chest armor when the time comes.

I cant see a bicep clip working with the way things are fitting at the moment either as it looks like it wold end up being too long.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
Been a while since I posted anything about my build so thought I would show some of my progress.

 

The strapping has taken up lots of time but I can't seem to find the pics I took of it so will take some more next time I have the camera out and post them!.

 

Spent the last few days trying to adjust the strapping to close up the gap between the shins and thighs as I had a 'huge gap' there due to long legs, I dropped the back and chest as far as I could with out it looking too low and extended the abdominal/cod down as far as I could without the ab popping out from under the chest in an effort to lower the thighs so decreasing the thigh/shin gap, I can't really pull the shins up any further as they are up as far as I can get them without my boots popping out but I could potentially drop the thighs a little bit further to gain a bit there but not sure how much of a gap between ab/cod and thighs is allowed for centurion.

One option I have been looking at would be to get a set of TM's 'extra long' shins from the UK but I can't really afford it right now but if push cam to shove its still an option.

Another option I have been thinking about is too join some extra abs onto the bottom of the shins and filling with abs paste and polishing but I can envision myself getting into trouble trying to attempt this!

If anyone has any other options please let me know!

I guess this is what happens when trying to make armor fit that was designed for British extra's who were 5'10 and I'm trying to make it fit my 6'1 frame.

 

Shoulder straps and ab buttons not fitted yet by the way until I get everything fitting right first!

 

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Edited by welshchris77
  • Like 1
Posted

Looking GOOD! I think you're really close!  Drop the thighs down about 1/2" to 1" and I think you're in good shape.

Posted

Looking GOOD! I think you're really close!  Drop the thighs down about 1/2" to 1" and I think you're in good shape.

Thanks Kalani, its great to finally see everything start to come together,

yeah if I can get the thighs down another 1/2" to 1" it would help with the knees gap but will create a bit of a gap at the top of the thighs,

don't know how much gap is acceptable there, will see if I can get Tony to chime in on this!, it may just be trade off though!

Posted

I think you would be OK to cheat them down some, even a full 1" would be good. Looking around at other builds it seems that the thighs should be down lower a bit, which helps your issue and will balance the black above and below.

Posted (edited)

Thanks Kalani, its great to finally see everything start to come together,

yeah if I can get the thighs down another 1/2" to 1" it would help with the knees gap but will create a bit of a gap at the top of the thighs,

don't know how much gap is acceptable there, will see if I can get Tony to chime in on this!, it may just be trade off though!

 

There's no technical rule in the CRL on gap size there.  It's not like they bust out a ruler.  It's simply a matter of "does it look like it's on correctly, or does it just look wrong?"  GML has discretion.  As Justin pointed out, I think it will balance the appearance for the better.

Edited by kman
Posted

I think you would be OK to cheat them down some, even a full 1" would be good. Looking around at other builds it seems that the thighs should be down lower a bit, which helps your issue and will balance the black above and below.

 

 

There's no technical rule in the CRL on gap size there.  It's not like they bust out a ruler.  It's simply a matter of "does it look like it's on correctly, or does it just look wrong?"  GML has discretion.  As Justin pointed out, I think it will balance the appearance for the better.

 Thanks guys, yeah I know what you mean about balancing out the 'gaps'!, I will adjust the thighs and take some more pics  :jc_doublethumbup:

  • Like 1
Posted

I took some more pics of my strapping as I couldn't find the others I took, I have gone for Tandy line 24 double snaps on everything and its really strong!.

I didn't want to be pestering someone to do all the sewing for the strapping and didn't want to borrow a sewing machine from a friend either incase anything happened to it so was thinking of buying one but they can be expensive and I have been told that the cheaper ones are just not worth it, then my partner reminded me of her her late mothers old 1920's'hand operated' singer sewing machine in the shed, I dug it out and the base had fallen out and most of the attachments had rusted up but the machine itself still worked so I spend a morning fixing it up and oiling it. It works great for sewing the strapping as the hand crank gives a lot of control over the stitch.  :)

 

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I really need to give my work station a clean  :blink:

  • Like 1
Posted

That's a really cool looking sewing machine! I like your double snaps - I briefly considered doing double snaps but my hatred of making snaps made me do mostly singles. The only doubles I did were on the shoulder straps. 

Posted

That's a really cool looking sewing machine! I like your double snaps - I briefly considered doing double snaps but my hatred of making snaps made me do mostly singles. The only doubles I did were on the shoulder straps. 

Yeah they don't make things like this anymore, cast iron body, weighs a ton!, its so easy to use too and if the electric goes I can still sew under candle light  :dancing-trooper:

Posted

What a great score!  That's a really cool machine.  They should be strong enough to do some leather sewing, too, so you're probably ahead of most modern machines, with that lovely thing.

 

GREAT job on the snaps.  I really need to start converting my suit over to those, asap.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

What a great score!  That's a really cool machine.  They should be strong enough to do some leather sewing, too, so you're probably ahead of most modern machines, with that lovely thing.

 

GREAT job on the snaps.  I really need to start converting my suit over to those, asap.

Thanks Kalani, its a shame they don't make things to last anymore, designed obsolescence is unsustainable, this thing is nearly 100 years old and if maintained will definitely last another 100 years.

Im not sure how it would cope with really thick leather like on a belt, possibly!, thinner leather though it will plow through like butter!  :D

 

If you go with the tandy line 24 snaps then just bear in mind that the posts are a little long, as with lots of new jobs you often get good at something near the end as I discovered, I found that for the male snaps they often went slightly off centre when setting them due to the long post, but, if you don't mind tedium, and use a dremel cutoff wheel to take a few millimeters off the end of the post, they centre every time, I found there was no need with the female snaps.

If you do this though hold the snap with a pair of heavy pliers against a scrap of timber and of course wear goggles, 70% of the time the hot piece that flew off hit my goggles! :blink:

Also I used a small electrical 'side cutters/snips' to score a series of lines around the posts of both male and female snaps, after pushing the pieces together (or you won't get them together), before setting which also helps the snap centre when being set, if that makes sense!

Additionally If your using nylon webbing and elastic for the straps and plan on using a sewing machine to sew the nylon to the elastic then you need to do this before setting the snaps through the two or the snaps won't pass under the sewing machine's foot. (the snap will be too close to the sew line!) unless your hand stitching!, which I wouldn't advise as it will take forever!

I sowed over every line 3/4 times by the way for strength and so I don't need to go back to them, ever!

:duim:

Edited by welshchris77
Posted

Made the adjustment to the thighs, hopefully this will be enough to 'balance out' the gaps.

What I have noticed though is that because the thighs are sitting lower they are a lot looser on my legs,

I could split the backs and rejoin them to make them more fitted,

then again maybe I won't bother and see what they are like over time when I start trooping!

 

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Posted

Super clean, man, nicely done!

 

Rather than hack apart the thighs, I'd consider adding a little foam inside.  That'll take up the extra space, and will even let you "steer" the armor a bit to keep everything nice and centered.

Posted

Super clean, man, nicely done!

 

Rather than hack apart the thighs, I'd consider adding a little foam inside.  That'll take up the extra space, and will even let you "steer" the armor a bit to keep everything nice and centered.

Yeah was thinking about adding foam alright! 

would be easier to try this first 

good point Kalani  :D

  • Like 1
Posted

Your balance of gaps looks great, I wouldn't overthink it, as everyone has different length in limbs. It's a one size fits all when looking at these kits an I for one wouldn't hold back an approval because you are taller/shorter or otherwise.

Keep up the great work.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted

Looks great! Adjustment is perfect I think.

 

As for the the thigh fit I would just put a few miles on them as they are then decide if you want to adjust or not. Looks wise all good so it really is about how it feels.

Posted

Your balance of gaps looks great, I wouldn't overthink it, as everyone has different length in limbs. It's a one size fits all when looking at these kits an I for one wouldn't hold back an approval because you are taller/shorter or otherwise.

Keep up the great work.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks Andrew, good to know  :duim:

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