mikedwelle94[TK] Posted February 14, 2016 Report Posted February 14, 2016 Got a bunch of stuff in the mail for my ROTJ-based Shock Trooper. In this thread, I'll be documenting the build of my Troopermaster ROTJ helmet kit. I've built a couple ANH helmets, and after looking this kit over, it seems like it'll go together much the same way. Only major difference being that the ear caps are glued instead of screwed. Rubber trim and TK-4510 ROTJ decals Pre-assembled mic tips. I'm relieved I don't have to cut and install the mesh myself. Bubble lenses. Top set is TM, bottom is AM 2.0. I'm leaning towards the AM lenses for this helmet because I like the shape of them a bit more. But we'll see what each set looks like in the lid once I cut out the eye holes. I have Testors #1138 for the ears, and a Testors gloss black enamel paint marker for the frown and vocoder. Rivets are supplied with the kit, but I'll probably use screws and nuts instead, as I prefer a less permanent method of assembly. Let me know if there's anything in particular I'll be needing that I don't already have. The end goal will be a helmet that will be worn as part of the first 501st approved Imperial Shock Trooper costume. As pretty as this shiny white plastic is to look at, it's gonna need to be scuffed up a little and take some red spray paint and some black+brown acrylic wash. I will never be seen wearing a clean white TK Hoping to achieve a result that looks like my MTK Shock Trooper helmet, which is now in someone else's hands. 3 Quote
mikedwelle94[TK] Posted February 15, 2016 Author Report Posted February 15, 2016 Got a lot done with this after work tonight. The left ear has been giving me some grief, so that's not on there yet. The neck trim slides on like a dream, but I won't be fitting that on again until after the left ear is glued. The grey paint is drying on the right ear - after that's dry I'll be doing the rank bars and outline with the black Testors paint marker. Does everything look right so far? Is it acceptable for a little bit of hot glue to be showing? Assembled with screws and nuts instead of rivets. I'll have to cut the size of these screws down a bit. TM lenses are held in with some scotch tape for now, just to get an idea of what they look like in the helmet Quote
mikedwelle94[TK] Posted February 15, 2016 Author Report Posted February 15, 2016 Also, I will NOT be cutting the teeth out. The Battlefront troopers don't have them cut out, and it will likely be a Centurion requirement once the CRL is live. Quote
The5thHorseman[501st] Posted February 15, 2016 Report Posted February 15, 2016 Also, I will NOT be cutting the teeth out. The Battlefront troopers don't have them cut out, and it will likely be a Centurion requirement once the CRL is live. Why make it Centurion? Wouldn't it be smarter to make it a 501st base requirement frolm the go? Because if not, anyone who has hollowed the teeth and who wants to upgrade to Centurion will have to buy a whole new helmet. Quote
mikedwelle94[TK] Posted February 15, 2016 Author Report Posted February 15, 2016 Why make it Centurion? Wouldn't it be smarter to make it a 501st base requirement frolm the go? Because if not, anyone who has hollowed the teeth and who wants to upgrade to Centurion will have to buy a whole new helmet.It's a comfort issue. Some folks are going to want those holes cut out for ventilation, so I think it's fair to give them that option. People who change their mind and want to upgrade to Centurion can do so easily without buying a replacement helmet. All you have to do is glue some sign plastic behind the holes, fill them in with silicone caulk, and paint over it in black once it's dry. That MTK helmet in my first post has silicone in its frown. Sent from my SCH-R530U using Tapatalk Quote
Ripper_L[Admin] Posted February 17, 2016 Report Posted February 17, 2016 I would rather attach some abs pieces from behind with abs slurry. It's easier to get it smooth and it's not a mess if you use the dremel. 1 Quote
mikedwelle94[TK] Posted February 17, 2016 Author Report Posted February 17, 2016 I've yet to find the correct ratio of acetone to ABS scrap to make a good enough paste, but that's just me. Silicone caulk is easy to work with and it does the job for me. I'm sure someone could make ABS paste work, but it would be much easier to just not cut the holes out to begin with Quote
mikedwelle94[TK] Posted February 18, 2016 Author Report Posted February 18, 2016 (edited) Helmet masked off for spray paint. Toothpaste dabbed on for the paint chip effect (hard to see in the photo) Success! And a comparison to a CAP-W ANH helmet, just to show how radically different the TM ROTJ is in its shape. Using an ANH helmet for a Shock Trooper just isn't going to cut it for me, accuracy-wise - this makes me much happier than my MTK Shock. The left ear will be shaped and fitted on a different day. Weathering and fine details will be added later tonight after class. This bucket is far from done ~ Edited February 18, 2016 by SolidScrafty Quote
troopermaster Posted February 18, 2016 Report Posted February 18, 2016 If you have not already glued the lenses in, you could do with trimming away more flashing inside the eye sockets. The ROTJ helmets hardly had any flashing left in them. 1 Quote
mikedwelle94[TK] Posted February 18, 2016 Author Report Posted February 18, 2016 Will do, thanks for chiming in. That will happen tomorrow night most likely. The lenses are temporarily held in with sticky back velcro - easily removable. Quote
mikedwelle94[TK] Posted February 21, 2016 Author Report Posted February 21, 2016 If you have not already glued the lenses in, you could do with trimming away more flashing inside the eye sockets. The ROTJ helmets hardly had any flashing left in them. Snapchat-337931459918057743 by Mike Dwelle, on Flickr Quote
mikedwelle94[TK] Posted February 26, 2016 Author Report Posted February 26, 2016 Calling this helmet done after going back with the white paint pen and some acrylic paint. I might revisit the weathering and go for a dirtier look when I apply for Expert Infantry, but for now, this should be good to go. Quote
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