ScaryGuy building his Anovos kit in the Netherlands

[ScaryGuy[TK]]

Hi There!

 

This is my first stormtrooper build, well also my first costume build ever  . I bought my Anovos kit during the Black Friday sales at the end of November. When Anovos started shipping I expected to receive mine in March since I ordered late. Surprisingly my BBB came this week! When spread across the floor the amount of plastic is intimidating, so I just put everything back in the BBB and just get the pieces out I want to work on.

 

I’m 1.70m (5’7”) and 68kg (150 lbs) so I’m on the small side. Anovos indicates an ideal range of 1.73 to 1.83m so I might run into some length issues. Since this is my first build I hope I don’t run into any advanced building issues.

 

Here’s some proof I have my kit  :

 

http://www.scaryguy.nl/bucket/IMG_0500_zpszgwbhhu4.jpg

 

http://www.scaryguy.nl/bucket/IMG_0503_zpsa96fgvs6.jpg

 

Resources

I’ve been reading a lot on this forum, gathering pieces of information from various threads. For my Anovos thread my main build resources are Ukswrath build thread and TrooperBay’s Youtube video’s. Ukswrath thread is awesome and very detailed many kudos to him!

 

Ukswrath build thread

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35142-anovos-tk-discussion-forum/

 

Seeing a build in videos is also very helpful:

 

TrooperBay build video’s on Youtube

https://youtu.be/jmcZ8J_ZECA

TK-1636 build video’s

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCeDunMes3e0wQn8_ns-ma4g

 

Tools / Materials

The supply list thread is a great source to get started with everything you need for the build.

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/25570-tip-choose-your-magnets-and-clamps/

 

http://www.scaryguy.nl/bucket/IMG_0507_zpstllpkeq8.jpg

 

There’s a lot of good advice available on which tools or materials to be used for the build. Unfortunately I live in the Netherlands so not everything advised is readily available over here.

Since E6000 is highly recommended I want to use it, but it is not common over here. I found some jewelry making web shops that offer the small E6000 tubes, but I have a feeling they are the cheap Chinese ones. So I ended up buying them on Ebay from a seller in the UK. I now have six 2 oz E6000 tubes.

 

Getting the snaps was a similar issue. The Tandy Line 24 snaps are recommended. I couldn’t find them here. I looked into snaps used for boat covers but they were quite expensive over here. So I bought a pack of 100 Tandy Line 24 snaps from the US through Ebay.

 

I bought 60 Neodymium magnets from China (aliexpress.com), size 20 mm x 3 mm.

 

Paint:

I found a model shop over here that sells Humbrol paint, so I bought:

Humbrol 5 gray for the ab buttons and frown repaint

Humbrol 14 french blue for the ab buttons

Humbrol 22 gloss white for the rivet caps

 

Elastic

 

http://www.scaryguy.nl/bucket/IMG_0509_zps6j1zr724.jpg

 

The elastic stuff was easy to get. I bought:

50 mm (2”) black elastic for the torso and thigh connections

25 mm (1”) black elastic for connecting the smaller parts

50 mm (2”) white elastic for the shoulder straps

6 mm white elastic to hold down the shoulder straps on the back plate

25 mm (1”) nylon webbing for snap plates and garter belt.

Plastic buckle for the nylon webbing

 

 

Note to self

The ABS has a protective layer. Remove it before sanding, gluing or painting  .

Patience, don’t rush it!

 

Armor

I’m starting with the armor. First I’m pre-trimming all the pieces to reduce this huge pile of plastic and get them ready for test fitting. When the pieces have been cut to size I’ll do the sanding to get them ready for gluing. I’m doing the trimming in my living room, but that’s not and ideal location for sanding and gluing. Too cold to do it outside so I’ll have to move to the storage in the basement of my apartment.

 

I don’t have much faith in the velcro / sticky tape strapping solution supplied by Anovos. The original screen used bracket system used looks cool but I have a feeling there's more risk with breaking the ABS edges. I read some threads about using snaps with snap plates, this looks like a strong and flexible solution to me. I think I’m going to double snap route I saw in this thread, using elastic to connect all the armor pieces together:

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/33933-strappingconnection-options/?p=440797

I found diagrams for snap positions here:

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24487-diagram-of-snap-placement/?p=307883

And I needed some measurements for the elastic etc.

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26477-what-we-know-about-strapping-snaps-rivets-etc/

 

I’m looking at other build threads to see which return edges can be removed or not, but also found this one:

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31930-return-edges/

 

I’m think I might run into some length issues with some pieces. I found this discussion about cutting the back of the knees:

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35374-completed-anovos-tk-pictures/?p=463960

 

Belt

I know I have to remove the top two chicago screws from the Anovos belt. I still haven’t decided how I’m gonna fix the holes. I like the way how ukswrath patched the holes in his build thread, but the issue that the belt has no reinforcement and looks sloppy still remains. I really don’t like that, so that might be the main reason the replace the belt.

 

Helmet

There are some things that need to be fixed or modified:

• Like many I don’t like the frown, I’m gonna strip the paint and repaint it.
• Cleanup the raised edge around the eyes
• Better helmet mounting, I feel like a bobble head with the supplied hard hat liner.  I’m thinking about using foam pads and an elastic strap to keep it in place.
• Lens mounting, also split them in two halves to make more room for my nose.
• There’s quite a gap near the top of the right ear, I have to look into that.
• Reinforce the ABS behind the hovi mic tips because it feels really thin.
• Maybe coat the inside of the helmet with plastidip

 

I found these threads on rebuilding the helmet:

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35356-anovos-helmet-rebuild/

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35115-dboz-anovos-tk-build/

 

The next level

After the initial completion the armor should be ready for 501^st approval. During the build I’m keeping the Centurion requirements in mind, so I won’t have to redo stuff later on. But there are some things I probably will do at a later moment:

 

Mods for Centurion requirements:

• Get latex handguards
• Repaint blue tube stribes so they are closer to the edge (pencil width)

Mods for trooping comfort:

• Install fans
• Get comfortable gloves for trooping
• TK Audiosystem

Edited February 24 by ScaryGuy

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Great start to your build thread. Super detailed. Looking forward to your progress. Looks like you have it all mapped out very well. Wish I was that organized on my build. Best of luck. <br>

Love your Star Wars display cabinet!

[ScaryGuy[TK]]

Great start to your build thread. Super detailed. Looking forward to your progress. Looks like you have it all mapped out very well. Wish I was that organized on my build. Best of luck. <br>

Love your Star Wars display cabinet!

 

Thanks! I'm a control freak, so I must have things organized   .

 

The cabinet is an IKEA Besta series, the lightsabers are displayed in two wine rack shelves.

[ScaryGuy[TK]]

I started trimming the handguards. Since they will be replaced with latex handguards eventually, there was not much to lose when I screw up on those parts. I used the exacto knife but I noticed it is more difficult to keep it straight. I will use a bigger knife for cutting the straight edges. 

 

Question: the back of the handguards (near the wrist) are very straight. I feel they would be more comfortable if they were more curved following the top of your hand. Is this ok?

 

Edited February 24 by ScaryGuy

[ScaryGuy[TK]]

Then I started trimming the arm pieces. After doing some pieces I feel more confident. Still I’m taking it very slowly. I score the straight edges 3 times with a big cutting knife. Then I used the exacto knife for the curved sides. I use lexan scissors to cut the corners so I can bend and snap the ABS off. For the curved sides I use multiple cuts with the lexan scissors, so I can snap small pieces at a time. I feel this reduces the risk of tearing the ABS.

 

 

 

Forearms and biceps have been pre-trimmed. I already removed the return edges from the wrist area and inner elbow side of the forearms. With the return edges the length of the forearms where a bit too long for me, and I could not fully bent my arm. Maybe I need the cut a bit more on the elbow side, but that’s  for when I get to the fitting stage.

 

 

Edited February 24 by ScaryGuy

[ScaryGuy[TK]]

Did some more work today. First I did the shoulder bells. The left one was a bit more difficult. On the return edge side the trimming line was barely visible on one end. I had to hold it in bright light and redraw it with a pencil. It was also more difficult to snap the ABS on this side. I had to score it multiple times on both sides of the ABS.

 

Next up where the shins. No issues here. I kept some long pieces of scrap ABS from these parts. Maybe they can be used as inner strips. Holding the shins to my legs I really think I have length issues fitting the armor to my legs. I will post some pictures here when I get to the fitting stage and ask advice on where I should trim it.

 

 

 

Last items of this trimming session where the thighs. These also seem too long for my legs. The tips are really poking in my groin area. I can barely lift my upper leg. 

 

 

 

 

Now I really need a break  .

Edited February 24 by ScaryGuy

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Hi Theo

  About the handguards, I use the latex handguards and never the plastic ones. I think you can curve them a bit for comfort near the wrist. This area will not be as visible so it should be safe to shape them to your wrist contour. But if you are looking at applying for Centurion at some point, I suggest getting a pair of latex hand guards. 

 

Good start on all your trimming!

[ScaryGuy[TK]]

Hi Theo

  About the handguards, I use the latex handguards and never the plastic ones. I think you can curve them a bit for comfort near the wrist. This area will not be as visible so it should be safe to shape them to your wrist contour. But if you are looking at applying for Centurion at some point, I suggest getting a pair of latex hand guards. 

 

Good start on all your trimming!

 

Hi Brian,

 

Yes, I will replace them with latex ones eventually, but for first approval I want to use the plastic ones. It seems the Anovos return edges are quite big overall, so I guess I will have to trim some others to be smaller too.

[ScaryGuy[TK]]

Last night I trimmed the final pieces.

 

 

Small stuf:

 

 

Front plates:

 

 

Back plates:

 

 

 

 

So .... pre-trimming is done! Yes! 

 

I haven't sanded anything yet. Most edges came out pretty clean so I'll just sand everything after fitting all the pieces and trimming them to the correct size.

 

Now onto the next phase!

Edited February 24 by ScaryGuy

[Airborne Trooper[501st]]

Off to a great start and wow that display is amazing. 

[ScaryGuy[TK]]

Today I started on fitting my first armor pieces: forearms and biceps. Last night I already tried them on and measured many times. Since I'm small I have a lot of room in them, so I need to cut quite a bit off. I was kinda worried I'm might cut off too much or distort the shape. This morning I tried them again and I felt more confident on cutting the pieces.

 

First a final size check. I don't have my underwear yet, so I put on some cycling underwear.

 

 

 

In the picture the biceps look a bit big, but I'm squeezing them to my body so all the room is on the outside. The circumference of the biceps near the elbow is slightly bigger (around 10 mm) then the forearms so I think they are okay,

 

 

 

 

 

I had to cut around 35 - 42 mm (approx 1 1/2 inch). I could just split the difference on both sides at the back, but I thought this would made the outer forearm t0o short and I would have problems gluing the cover strip. So I just took 10 mm from the outer part, and the rest of the inner. 

 

 

 

 

 

The forearms look oval now. This might be an issue for the cover strips, so I used some scrap abs for inner strips. They are a bit thinner and slightly smaller than the supplied outer cover strips, but it will give more support on connection both sides.

 

I ended with gluing the inner strips on the outer forearms.

 

 

 

Things I learned after gluing my first pieces:

- E6000 smells bad. I used a simple dust mask, but I need to get a real respirator.

- I used nitril gloves so the E6000 wouldn't get on my skin, but I have a natural talent getting glue on everything I touch  .

- Beware of magnets. Putting armor pieces right next to each other with magnets isn't smart  .

 

The biceps where a bit easier, I had to remove 25 - 36 mm. First I made the shape of the inner front and back the same, then I split the remaining difference on both halves.

 

 

 

 

 

After cutting

 

 

 

 

 

 

I first glued the curved side of the biceps. The other side is flat so it will be easier to close them.

 

 

 

That's it for today!

Edited February 24 by ScaryGuy

[ScaryGuy[TK]]

Today I spent some time on sanding the torso parts and shoulder bells. I was very carefull at pre-trimming everything, so not much clean up was needed. I used a dremel type sander to remove the remaining edges from the trim line or other rough areas. Then I used 180 grit sandpaper to smooth the edges. It took me a little over 2 hours to sand every thing.

 

 

Everything nice and smooth:

 

 

I have decided I'm going to replace the belt, so I started on removing the ammo boxes from the belt. I already saw some pictures from people having problems removing the cover caps so I knew it could be risky.

 

I started by drilling out the rivet from the back of the belt.

 

 

 

When pulling on the belt to see if the rivet would break I somehow pulled the washer through the hole and the cover cap fell off. I guess because of the heat the plastic melted and I could pull the washer through. Fortunately the plastic restored itself so the hole appears normal.

 

 

 

The rivet on the other side basically went the same. I pulled the washer through the hole. The cap didn't fall off this time, so I used a putty knife to snap it off. This was very easy.

 

 

The middle rivet was last. 

 

 

This one was a bit more difficult. I couldn't pull the washer through like the others, so I had to keep drilling until the rivet finally broke off. The cover cap was already loose on most side, but was still stuck on one. My putty knife was too big to fit between the ammo boxes, so I used a screwdriver instead. I used painters tape to protect the abs. I could break the cap off without using much force.

 

 

So ammo belt removed without damage, phew!

 

 

 

Next I'm going to fit the torso armor. I already tried painters tape to connect them but it didn't stick very well. So I'm using the Anovos supplied velcro and straps for fitting the armor. This allows for easy adjusting things. When everything is lined up correctly I can measure the distance and create the straps and snap plates and replace the velcro ones.

Edited February 24 by ScaryGuy

[ScaryGuy[TK]]

Well I put the torso together with the supplied velcro. Very easy and a fast way to connect everything together, but it sure won't last very long. When I was done I got to fit the armor for the first time. Very exciting! Closing the sides was a bit difficult. I had to bring them together in the correct angle to close the velcro. Overall I'm pleased with how it looks. I thought it might be a bit too wide, but when the sides where closed properly it think it's ok. The posterior plate is sticking out on the sides when viewing from the front, but I hope that will be hidden when wearing the thighs.

 

Any thoughts on how it's fits?

 

 

Edited February 24 by ScaryGuy

[ScaryGuy[TK]]

Small update for tonight. Yesterday I received my respirator so I continued gluing the arm pieces. For the biceps I just had to glue the second cover strips on both pieces. The forearms only had the 2 inner cover strips glued, so I started with adding the first outer cover strip. Tonight I continued with the forearms. Because there is a lot of tension when I close the two halves, I decided to glue them together using only the inner cover strip. After drying I will add the second outer cover strip. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Biceps have their cover strips. I also received my nomex flight gloves Today. Nice and thin gloves, definitely more comfortable than those rubber ones.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 24 by ScaryGuy

[Airborne Trooper[501st]]

Nice work! Progressing nicely!

[ScaryGuy[TK]]

Forearms are done! I had to use multiple steps for gluing the inner and outer cover strips so it took a while.

 

 

 

I was in the mood to paint the ab buttons. First I sanded the edges, I already removed the return edges during the pre-trimming phase. I read a tip to draw circles with a pencil first, this will act as a barrier for the paint. It seemed easier then trying to mask everything but the buttons so I gave it a shot. I used a circle drawing thingy (or whatever it is called  ) to draw the circles around the buttons. I decided not to paint the entire button down to the base, but leave some white edge. 

 

 

Then I started painting. I must say the pencil tip really works. You still have to be careful with the brush, but the paint does stop at the pencil line. 

 

 

Later that night I was looking at the painted buttons again and I made a weird move resulting in grabbing the painted buttons with my thumb. I tried to touch it up with some more paint but that didn't make it better. So the next day I removed the paint of the small button plate and repainted it again.

 

 

Next step is working on the leg parts. First I trimmed  all front sections to the required 20 mm cover strip width. Then I fitted the shins using painters tape. As I already knew the shins where too large, I could hardly bent my knee or ankle. So I decided to cut some length from the ankle side. I thought I had to remove 20 mm, but to be safe I started with 15 mm. I used a compass to follow the contour of the ankle and draw a line at 15 mm distance.

 

 

After the cutting the shins feel much better. I think the 15 mm was already enough, so I didn't cut the 20 mm I first thought was necessary. I can always cut more when needed.

 

After fitting them again I determined how much I have to remove in width.

For the left shin (24/27) I had to cut 15 mm of. Since the outer side was wider I removed the entire 15 mm on the outer side. Now both sides have almost the same width.

 

 

For the right shin (25/28) the top fitted correctly, but I had to remove 20 mm from the bottom. I split the difference on both sides, cutting 10 mm on each tapering to 0 mm at the top.

 

 

 

 

Now the shins are ready for sanding. In this picture I have laid out the shins as I intend to use them. The left leg uses 24/27, the right 25/28. The inner halves are longer at the bottom than the outer halves, this is the correct layout according to troopermaster.

 

 

There's still some discussion about this. When I'm installing the sniper plate I have to make the final decision on for which leg I'm gonna use them.

Edited February 24 by ScaryGuy

[dejango[TK]]

I have my shins set up the same way. It seems to be the overall consensus from the pros so that's what I'm going with

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ScaryGuy[TK]]

I have my shins set up the same way. It seems to be the overall consensus from the pros so that's what I'm going with

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think I will use this layout too. This way the inner halves are more curved like to calves. When the cover strips are glued I can do a final check with the sniper plate and see if there's any difference between both legs. It should fit the left leg correctly.

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

Looking great so far, Theo, and fantastic paint job on those ab plate buttons... you certainly have an eye for accuracy!!  It may be the way the photo is taken, but it looks like the large one is wider at the bottom than the top, or is that just me? haha

[ScaryGuy[TK]]

Looking great so far, Theo, and fantastic paint job on those ab plate buttons... you certainly have an eye for accuracy!! It may be the way the photo is taken, but it looks like the large one is wider at the bottom than the top, or is that just me? haha

Thanks Joseph! The large button plate is wider at the bottom and on the right it tapers to the top being smaller. Just like the corresponding area on the ab plate. It's supposed to be accurate. But I guess not every type of armor has this tapered side?

[ScaryGuy[TK]]

Last two weekends I didn't have much time to work on my project, but this week I have been able to do some small stuff.

After sizing and cutting the shins I worked on the thighs. I took a few fitting sessions to determine how much I was going to cut from the thigh. I haven't cut anything length wise yet. I think it's best to do that when the rest of the armor is finished and connected with snaps together. I think I might only have to cut the back of the knees to improve mobility.

 

Currently I'm gluing the shins and the right thigh. I didn't have enough clamps and magnets for the left one, so it have to do that one later. Like the forearms I am using inner cover strips to reinforce the legs and make it easier to glue both halves together. This will take several nights but I think it is safer to do it this way. Tonight I have attached to cover strips on the front of the shins and thigh. Then I have to close the thigh on the back and attach the rear cover strip. So that will take probably to more nights.

 

 

 

Since the leg parts need drying I did some pre-work on snap plates. I bought Tandy Line 24 snaps from the USA and some snap setting tools from China. After several attempts I couldn't get a single snap closed properly. 

 

 

I don't know if it is because I don't have the correct tools or if it's because of the longer post of the Tandy snaps. I read in other threads about Prym snaps that also offer a pliers setting tool. I decided to buy them and it was so easy with these! They also have a smaller post which is fine when using nylon snap plates. I haven't set a faulty Prym snap yet. So if anyone needs Tandy snaps, I still have 90 of them  .

 

 

Also did some work on the torso parts. Drilling holes for the split rivets and snaps. I mostly used uskwrath's measurements for these.

 

 

 

With the butt plate I made a small error drilling the two snap holes. The top one wasn't aligned properly. So I widened the hole using a drill. If will be covered by the snap, so no big issue. The Prym snaps that I use are larger then the ones ukswrath uses in his build thread. So I had to use different measurements for drilling the holes. I think I used 15 and 35 mm from the edge.

 

I already glued some snap plates to the torso parts. I read about E6000 and metal snaps melting the ABS. I didn't seem likely to me so I just glued the metal snaps without covering them with tape. After drying I didn't notice anything other then the snap is now glued to the ABS. Myth busted?

 

 

And I started working on the thermal detonator. At work a colleague helped cutting 7-8 mm from the grey tube. With the end caps the total length is now 7.5". I already glued the control panel to it. Before I mount the metal brackets I want to finish my new belt first, so I can try them first and see how they fit the belt.

 

Edited February 24 by ScaryGuy

[Airborne Trooper[501st]]

Looking great so far!

[ScaryGuy[TK]]

This weekend I spent a lot of time on my project. First I sanded the last rough parts: left thigh, sniper plate, ammo box and the shoulder straps. I also used my dremel to remove the epoxy glue from the belt rivet covers.

 

Then I started working on the new TKittel belt. I determined the middle of the new belt and copied the locations of the snaps from the Anovos belt. 

 

 

My new Prym snaps have a short post which is fine for the nylon snap plates, but it was to short for the snaps on the belt. So I used the round Tandy button for attaching the Prym female snap part to the belt. I don't like mixing different types of snaps so this was a nice work around. I also didn't have pop rivets that are long enough to go through the canvas belt and ammo belt. Once again I used a Tandy snap in combination with a washer to attach the ammo belt.

 

The elastic of the drop boxes fit the new belt nicely so I didn't have to modify them. I glued the elastic to the belt with some E6000. On the Anovos belt the distance between the holster and the ammo belt was 55 mm. According to a diagram I found here this distance should be approx. 20 mm. Personally I prefer the holster to be a bit more in the back of my leg and 20 mm looks really close to me. So I decided to split the difference and attach the holster at 37,5 mm from the ammo belt. The chicago screws are attached 15 mm from the edge of the belt. I didn't want to cut the excess leather of the holster, so I glued them with some E6000 instead.

 

 

The belt also needs to be connected to the ab plate, so I drilled the holes for the ab snaps. There I made my first mistake. On both sides I measured the same distance from the bottom edge, but on one side the edge is lower. When I connected the belt I noticed it was skewed. The snap had to be 10 mm higher. Since the snap is covered by the belt I decided to drill a new hole and place a new snap.

 

I glued a small ABS piece behind the hole and I probably will fill it with some ABS paste at a later time. Later that day I made another error: one of the snaps that was already glued with a nylon snap plate was rattling. For some reason I had the great idea to use the Prym pliers to tighten the snap. Well it certainly did, but the pressure also left a mark of the snap in the ABS. 

 

 

It's close to the faulty hole so it will be hidden by the belt too, but I wasn't happy about it. Two mistakes in a row.

 

 

This weekend I spent time on gluing the nylon snap plates and creating elastic connections with snaps.

 

 

I also continued gluing the thighs. The right one is now done, and I'm still working on the left one. Tomorrow I have to glue the last cover strip. The thighs need some serious clamping to close both halves and attach the cover strips.

 

 

Edited February 24 by ScaryGuy

[ScaryGuy[TK]]

The thermal detonator is also finished. The Anovos brackets work fine with the new belt so I drilled the holes for them. At work I found some nice pan head style screws. I think the head is a bit bigger than the originals, but they fit nicely with the large holes in the Anovos brackets. I painted them black with Hammerite metal paint. I also glued the brackets with E6000 for extra strength.

 

 

I didn't bother to glue the end caps. It's pretty hard to remove them so I don't think they will come off.

 

The shins are almost done. Today I tried to attach the sniper plate. I'm going with the Troopermaster  shin configuration (longer parts on the inside) which looks fine, but it doesn't play nice with the sniper plate. I choose a layout that I think works best and glued the front and outer side to the shin.

 

 

 

I also did some ABS cooking. First issue was my butt plate. It was really flaring out on the sides, especially my left. There was a gap of 3 - 4 cm on the left, and 2 cm on the right. I put the plate in boiling water for about 10 seconds then I bent it and held it in place for some time. Since the left side had to be bent quite a bit, the return edge is now a bit waved due to the excess material that has to go somewhere.

 

 

 

When connected it is hardly visible and it will also behind the holster. So again, the belt hides everything  .

 

 

The right shin also had an issue. There was a height difference of 10 mm between both sides. In this picture featuring "The Mummy"  you can see the difference at the bottom, which was located at the top before taping them.

 

 

I aligned the shin properly and rolled it in painters tape. I don't have a large pan for the shin, so I used a plastic bucket instead. I used two large pans to cook water and an electric water kettle to boil some more. I filled the bucket and helt the shin in the water for approx 1 minute. First the upper half for 40 seconds, then the bottom half for 20 seconds, then the upper for another 20 seconds. Then I put it in cold water.

 

Some of the painters tape really stuck to the ABS, so I had to do some cleaning up with warm water and 

 

But the shin came out nicely! I just have to trim the bottom edge so both sides match.

 

 

 

Next will be the velcro attachment. I'm trying to create some more inner cover strips to have more material for the velcro. I will use 20 mm velcro. The Anovos supplied velcro doesn't feel strong so I bough some new.

Edited February 24 by ScaryGuy

[ScaryGuy[TK]]

Well I guess I cheered a bit too early. The back of the shin lines up nicely, but now the front of the shin is twisted at the bottom. This looks worse than the back did.

 

 

It looks better if I line up the halves at the bottom of the shin.

 

So it's "Return of the Mummy". I repeated the same procedure.

 

This time the painters tape came off easily. The shin has been restored to the previous state. At least I gained some cooking experience  .

 

 

 

I probably will be cutting the back of the knees so that will also take care of the top not lining up.

Edited February 24 by ScaryGuy