themaninthesuitcase Anovos ANH Stunt Build

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Latex hand guards are only a Centurion requirement.

Off we go

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

EIB submitted with my clearance images. Suspect I'll get called up on the dressing issues but I've got the foam now to pad out the parts as needed.

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

I adjusted my thigh straps last night by shortening them by around an inch. This seems to have done a good job getting the thighs to sit right now. I will need to trim the top of the rears slightly as they stick into my bum. I'll see if I can get an armourer to look at that at MCM before I get out the tools. Still using the webbing belt I made, this sits firmly on my hips and works well.

 

I also mucked about with the foam and it seems that a 2x4" piece of the 1" foam is about right for the front of shins and behind the knee to get the sniper plate right. I'm going to order some 2" velcro both glue/sew in and self adhiesve to attach these. I cut a few spare foam blocks so will chuck these and some of the self adhiseve velcro into my kit box for spares.

 

I will still need to trim the rear knee area to be able to walk better but I'm not sure if I should do this before or after MCM and see how I get on first.

 

I also knocked up a webbing strap for the Aker, saved me having to muck about with bending plastic. Just attached with snaps as I have mountains of them. Once that's dry I'll work out where the rest of the chest electrics will need to go.

 

Images to follow once I'm done with the glue etc.

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Just got passed at EIB!  

 

The genuine velcro came today for the foam parts. I went with velcro as it means I can adjust in future if needed. I've got self adhesive and sew in. I'll probably use the sew in and use E6000 to the armour and contact cement to the foam. Hopefully that will hold.

 

I also got called up on the shoulder to bell gap, as many do. The gap is maybe 5mm before I put it on so it must be the elastic stretching out. I have a bunch left so What I might do is double up and see how strong that is. This of course is where I wish I'd used a snap for the attachment rather than glue but.....

 

So basically all thats stopping a Centurion application is the waiting list I'm on for new hand plates which is quoted as "mid May".

[ScaryGuy[TK]]

Just got passed at EIB!

.....So basically all thats stopping a Centurion application is the waiting list I'm on for new hand plates which is quoted as "mid May".

Well done Chris! All the hard work finally pays off!

[SupRsloth[TK]]

Just got passed at EIB!

 

The genuine velcro came today for the foam parts. I went with velcro as it means I can adjust in future if needed. I've got self adhesive and sew in. I'll probably use the sew in and use E6000 to the armour and contact cement to the foam. Hopefully that will hold.

 

I also got called up on the shoulder to bell gap, as many do. The gap is maybe 5mm before I put it on so it must be the elastic stretching out. I have a bunch left so What I might do is double up and see how strong that is. This of course is where I wish I'd used a snap for the attachment rather than glue but.....

 

So basically all thats stopping a Centurion application is the waiting list I'm on for new hand plates which is quoted as "mid May".

Congrats and welcome to EIB!

 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

So adjustments and trooping prep:

 

I've managed to fit all the sound equipment into the chest plate. I've used the 1" webbing and some snaps to secure the Aker speaker. I also have some velcro holing the iPhone 5s I'll be using for voice changing and clicks. The cables all fit but I'm not 100% happy with the routing for the white splitter cable. To fix this I've ordered a 13cm TRRS right angle adapter to allow me to angle the jack better and should reduce risk of damage too. It's on the slow boat from china so it will miss my first troop.

 

 

Once I have the new cabling I'll look at positioning again, it's all just loop velcro so I can add more and then just put stuff where ever I want.

 

One of the things wrong with the Anovos kit is the mesh on the Hovi tips. Some have replace theirs but pulling the tip apart and gluing in some sieve mesh. I've looked at mine and they seem to be an injection moulded shell with a resin insert and there's no way they are coming apart. With this in mind I'm going to leave them as is. I am considering replacing them with some CFO tips though which look like a nice accurate option.

 

What I did do whilst I had it apart was to glue in some reinforcement behind the tips. The plastic is very thin here so I just used some poly cement to add a small circle of extra plastic for more strength.

 

 

And finally I have now glued in the velcro for the leg padding to help hold stuff in place.

 

I used E-6000 to hold the loop to the armour. Having dome the phone earlier I probably could have used the self adhesive stuff but then I'd be left with odd off cuts.

 

 

 

The hook is attached to the foam with Evo-Stick contact adhesive. This is stronger than the foam so isn't going anywhere:

 

 

This should hold the legs in the right place and stop my sniper plate hooking under the thigh. I still need to trim the "half moons" on the back to get me some more movement though.

 

The only other thing that was mentioned at my EIB was the shoulder bell -> strap gap being a bit big. This is down to the elastic stretching out rather than the gap being big in the first place. Any tips? Should I double up the elastic or do I need to heat form the bells to flare them out a bit?

Edited May 8, 2016 by themaninthesuitcase

[Fraktilfilth[TK]]

Hi Chris. I managed to replace the screens on my mic tips. First off I made a hole in the existing screens with a pair of tweezers. Once the hole was big enough I switched up to needle nose pliers. Using these I twisted and pulled the screen away from the edge. They came away with ease, you do hear a little cracking which is unnerving but this is just the glue.

Next up I remove the mesh from a sieve. Using a pair of shears I cut out a piece larger than I needed and formed it around the end of a metal dome punch (I only used this because it was the same diameter and was to hand but anything else would work). Next I trimmed down the edges and popped them back in.

 

Hope this is of use to you if you decide to go through with it later.

 

 

Sent from my ONE A2003 using Tapatalk

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

I need to trim the back of the knee for better mobility. I've based this line on a production still (well ish, it's a far cleaner line) and have checked against a few other builds and it looks about right.

 

 

I've not done the lower leg yet, will see how this works first as I have a lot more room on the bottom.

 

I also have a rough idea how much I need to trim off the top (which isn't a small amount) but I want to see if I can grab an armourer/experienced builder at MCM to help with the line before I do that cut.

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

I disassembled the hovi tips to swap out the mesh to the more accurate mesh from a sieve rather than the super dense stuff they supplied.

 

Many have said this was easy, and for one it was! I just squeezed and twisted and the glue popped and off it came. The other required a lot or persuasion.

 

 

There's about 3-4 layers of luminous green gaff tape on the pliers and 4-5 wraps of painters tape. You need that much or you'll scratch the tip, ask me how I know... Not too much damage was done and it will all be surrounded by the bucket so never mind.

 

 

As you can see the nasty black glue (maybe a poly cement?) has gone all over the bit thats supposed to be white so time to crack out the paints again. Looking at the single reference image I've got, and the tips sold by others it looks like the inside of the tube also wants to be white?

 

I have some gloss but I think I want this to be matt really, so I better get that ASAP.

[Sentry71[TK]]

The only other thing that was mentioned at my EIB was the shoulder bell -> strap gap being a bit big. This is down to the elastic stretching out rather than the gap being big in the first place. Any tips? Should I double up the elastic or do I need to heat form the bells to flare them out a bit?

In my case, I shortened the elastic attached to the bell. Basically, unstretched, the snap is about 1/4" short of the mating snap position. This lets the elastic stretch, and keep the bell close to the shoulder strap.

[kman[TK]]

The only other thing that was mentioned at my EIB was the shoulder bell -> strap gap being a bit big. This is down to the elastic stretching out rather than the gap being big in the first place. Any tips? Should I double up the elastic or do I need to heat form the bells to flare them out a bit?

My current intent is to put in webbing instead of elastic. I can't really picture an instance where it will need to stretch. My shoulders may move up, which would shorten the line, but it can wrinkle just fine to shorten... there's no case I can think of where my shoulders would magically get broader, though. That's bone structure.

 

I'll be doing this in conjunction with exchanging the Anovos strapping (which I'm still using for the moment) for Centurion-approvable white straps.

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

I'm currently thinking I'll mark the current point, pull the straps off move that in about 5-10mm and re-glue if that's not good enough then I'll re think. The real issue is my shoulders pushing it out, and I don't even have big shoulders. Could be the biceps moving it out I suppose as I left a bit of room in them for movement.

 

Also having 2nd thoughts about cutting the back of the knee. I can walk okay(ish) so I'll leave it for now until I trim the tops which do need to be done. The extra space that gives me may well be enough to get good clearance for walking.

 

The battery for my fans came today. It's an Anker PowerCore+ mini 3550mA @ 1A output. The old fans I have are around 0.1A and I'd guess the new ones will be in the same ballpark. It's nice and small* and I think it should fit nicely between the Hovi tips.

 

I've also got some matt white paint in the post along with some screws to mount the fans.

 

What I don't yet have is a helmet bag. However all the £5 here and £10 there for the finishing touches has cleaned me out without realising what I was spending so that will have to wait until the end of the month, though if I order with fast post maybe in time for my induction.

 

I do have an IKEA fleece throw that I plan to use to make a drawstring bag to provide some protection.

 

 

* Though you can get smaller I'm sure. Just if it's that close to my melon I want a brand I can trust.

[hupspring[TK]]

Before you cut the back of the knees, try just removing the return edge from the back. I was having a little bit of discomfort from the back of the knees and removed the return edges on the back of the thighs only. Now I'm able to climb stairs with no pain. And if removing the return edge isn't enough, then you can trim the back of the knee.

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Before you cut the back of the knees, try just removing the return edge from the back. I was having a little bit of discomfort from the back of the knees and removed the return edges on the back of the thighs only. Now I'm able to climb stairs with no pain. And if removing the return edge isn't enough, then you can trim the back of the knee.

The returns went long ago! Needed to trim them to get them on at all.

 

The issue is the shape of my bum, the corners poke into it meaning the thigh wants to rotate the back outwards on both sides. It also means that they can't come up as much at the back as at the front.

 

So if I trim the top it will make them more comfortable, stop them rotating and allow them to come higher, possibly enough to not have to trim the knee.  But for now I've decided to leave them and see if I can grab some one at my induction troop for some advice on what the cut line should be.  I have a film reference image that shows what I propose to do so it's not un-precedented, also probably a big issue with some female troopers seeing as I have womanly hips (thanks mum).

 

[hupspring[TK]]

Ah I've been debating trimming the top backs of my thighs as well since sometimes they will hit the butt plate. I still haven't mastered the positioning of the thighs on the thigh garter yet, so the right position might solve it for me. Trimming yours would probably help if you could then pull them higher. You could probably even get away with not having the point in the back - I've seen several RS Props kits that have no point in the back, just a curve around the entire rear.

[Sentry71[TK]]

After the first two troops, I ended taking the entire top edge of the thighs off (by about 1cm), and now there's no pinching - and I can sit!

 

I think waiting to see how it works on that first troop is a good plan.

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Now I have access to my reference images:

 

Tantive IV boarding sequence:

 

 

You can see the trooper just to the right of Vader has the very pointed tops as per our armour (I'd love to know which is the armour that was used to model from, maybe it's that one?)

 

The rightmost trooper has had a far more aggressive trim.

 

So on the Death Star:

 

 

We see that more troopers had the more aggressive trim, here at least 3 have it, possibly 4.

 

That's roughly what I need to do to my armour. Also note on the 2nd image how none have had the knee trim on the thigh armour.

 

Whilst we are here the shoulder bell return looks tiny/gone on most of them. I might reduce mine (again once I can speak to someone and see some other armour) to see if this will help with the should movement.

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Progress on 2 fronts:

 

Front 1 - Fan brackets.

 

I've not completed my basic bracket and fans which work quite well, there is one issue, well 2, though which I will come back to.

 

 

The bracket is basically 2 1.5" wide strips with a kink at the end and a 5cm square to mount the fan to. They are joined in the middle by 2 M4 screws, and the fans are mounted with M3 screws. The fans are individually switchable via the switches which are just hot glued on. These are easily accessible from the back so a spotter could access these reasonably subtly to switch as needed.

 

 

Who doesn't love lime green gaff tape? The wiring is all hidden along the back and secured with gaff tape because it's what I had. It's all hard soldered, no plugs to come loose. There's also lots of heat shrink to cover the joins and make things stronger. The power lead is a USB cable cut from one of those dual USB type A cables for high draw devices. I cut of the power only cable to use for this.

 

The whole thing works really well and blows air up to the eyes and keeps the bucket from warming up.

 

 

The battery fits nicely at the front of the bucket and doesn't really need any further securing there. Also being at the front means I can see it. Whilst Anker makes good stuff I'm still wary of having a battery so close to my head.

 

I mentioned issues:

 

1 - The battery needs a button pushing to turn it on. This was not mentioned in the Amazon listing which is super annoying or I'd have got a different one. Whilst not a complete disaster it does mean if I turn off both fans after about 30s I can't turn them back on again with out taking off the bucket which means a trip back to the changing room.

 

2 - This is a bigger issue. The fans vibrate against the bucket and make a right racket. If I hold them to stop the vibration its FAR quieter. I'll need to add some craft foam or something to the back to stop the vibration transfer but that will gave to wait for now as the budget has been blown.

 

So I have a nice fan set up I can't use yet, which makes me sad

 

Front 2 - Hovi tips:

 

I've discovered Tamiya paint is pretty decent, thin, but decent so I ordered their XF-2 matt white for the tips. As it's quite thin it's taking a few coats to get good coverage.

 

 

Before paint

 

 

After 1 coat

 

 

After 2 coats.

 

I'm hoping 3 coats should do the job which will be done this evening and mean I can get on with adding the mesh from a sieve. You can also see where I'm painting the insides of the "tube" white to better match the original items. Not needed but a nice touch.

[kman[TK]]

Interesting idea, painting the inside of the hovi tubes. I think you're right and they are supposed to be white, actually. I might paint mine, too, we'll have to see.

 

I really don't want to order another bottle paint just for this, though. I wonder how well Liquid Paper would work? It's fairly matte, IIRC. Probably moreso than the Humbrol #22 paint I have, at least.

 

If you don't have any scrap foam laying around that you can steal, you might also be able to make do with a small piece of cloth, at least as a temporary measure. Do you have a rag you can snip a couple of pieces from?

Edited May 12, 2016 by kman

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Interesting idea, painting the inside of the hovi tubes. I think you're right and they are supposed to be white, actually. I might paint mine, too, we'll have to see.

 

I really don't want to order another bottle paint just for this, though. I wonder how well Liquid Paper would work? It's fairly matte, IIRC. Probably moreso than the Humbrol #22 paint I have, at least.

 

If you don't have any scrap foam laying around that you can steal, you might also be able to make do with a small piece of cloth, at least as a temporary measure. Do you have a rag you can snip a couple of pieces from?

It's meant be white I've checked a few place but it's a real not big deal, but in for a penny...

 

The Tamiya paint was £1.44 a jar (plus £2 because I didn't want to drive out to the store again which means a full shopping trip and so is cheaper). I needed it anyway to touch up the mess of the glue so painting the insides is not really any more work.

 

I might have something I can use but I'm so close to done I'd rather wait and get the right thing which is some 2mm craft foam.

[AWOL]

Nice job on the fans, have you run them constantly to get a run time with that battery? Curious to know...

 

the force? oh I'll use the force, bring me a hammer...

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Nice job on the fans, have you run them constantly to get a run time with that battery? Curious to know...

 

the force? oh I'll use the force, bring me a hammer...

not yet, the longest I've gone so far is about 5 minutes lol.

[AWOL]

not yet, the longest I've gone so far is about 5 minutes lol.

You should fully charge it and leave it running to see...

I'm thinking of running 2 off a 9v battery (x2 as I have 4 (2 front pointing up 2 back pointing down for maximum airflow))

I recommend using the foam behind as it will dampen if not eliminate the vibration...

As for your switches you may be able to use these...

http://ebay.co.uk/itm/7-x-7mm-PCB-Tactile-Push-Button-Switch-Self-Latching-6-Pin-DIP-UK-SELLER-S23-/111872752292

Mounting may be tricky though...

 

the force? oh I'll use the force, bring me a hammer...

Edited May 12, 2016 by AWOL

[kman[TK]]

What's the mAh rating of your battery? That plus the specs from the fans and you can probably get a decent estimate. I have 2 batteries that look similar (3000 mAh rating each), pushing only one fan, and I got a ~9.5 hour runtime. If your battery is similar, and fans have similar specs, pushing two fans with one battery pack should get you a good 4 hours of runtime, I'd think.