Jump to content

Anovos Helmet Rebuild


Recommended Posts

Nuts above are 'T Nuts' and at your local hardware store (try an ACE or Do-it-best) you should be able to find a plethora of them in various sizes. You can also usually find them without the spikes. I just brought home a handfull today for this exact purpose! Little under 50 cents each.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nuts above are 'T Nuts' and at your local hardware store (try an ACE or Do-it-best) you should be able to find a plethora of them in various sizes. You can also usually find them without the spikes. I just brought home a handfull today for this exact purpose! Little under 50 cents each.

Are you referring to the ones I posted? If so that's great!

 

\m/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry to sidetrack this, but would this work to mount the lenses?

Back

af44a73988c5ab86a1a300c1d4c0961f.jpg

 

Front

7df032a62a4fcffb04e6e18923fb3326.jpg

 

\m/

I'm using T-nuts for my lens mounts. Haven't gotten to the actual lens install yet, but there are some notes about my experience so far here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?/topic/35115-DBoz-ANOVOS-TK-Build/page__view__findpost__p__463933

 

I think they should work fine, just make sure to trim the spikes off before you install them.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry for the delay guys. Here are the final shots of the helmet rebuild:Vent striping continued. I used Trooperbays templates to mark out where the vent lines should go. A couple masking strips on the top and bottom assured the stripes would be flat on the top and bottom.post-12041-0-72826800-1455561801_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-81026900-1455561806_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-50728100-1455561811_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-98870100-1455561815_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-37951700-1455561820_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-60825000-1455561824_thumb.jpg

The tear stripes were freehanded.post-12041-0-19667900-1455561829_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-79986300-1455561833_thumb.jpg as was the vocoder areapost-12041-0-71013000-1455561838_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-85430400-1455561843_thumb.jpg

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, guys!! 

Keep in mind that the above picture of the vocoder was taken while the paint was still wet. I did use semi-gloss here and that is how it turned out as you will see. Next up was the tube stripes. I used the masking tape method for making the stripes. After heavy burnishing of the tape to make complex curve of the tube, I placed trooperbay's template on the line I measured from the cheek and traced each stripe out. post-12041-0-89113200-1455597150_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-93834000-1455597159_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-52408600-1455597167_thumb.jpg

I used the exacto to carefully cut ouch each stripe and painted it with Humbrol. I almost immediately peeled the tape off. I think I might wait next time until the paint has fully dried. When I peeled it up, the paint became stringy left little strings that I needed to go back and remove with a thinner dampened brush. But overall, they came out OK. post-12041-0-75165300-1455597329_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-06564000-1455597336_thumb.jpg

Next I moved onto the interior. I cleaned off all the adhesive from everything that was stuck on previously. I needed to clip down the new ear screws with snips.post-12041-0-00809200-1455597619_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-80820200-1455597625_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-23620300-1455597634_thumb.jpg

After that I could move onto applying the plasti-dip/cheesecloth interior coating. post-12041-0-55863500-1455597677_thumb.jpg Typically, I will lay a thin layer of "dip" to embed the cheesecloth into, then a second coat of "dip" on top. Because the plstic was so thin I used 3 coats of dip and two embedded layers of cheesecloth..post-12041-0-64695500-1455597798_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-07289300-1455597814_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-43304900-1455597820_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-63651000-1455597825_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-23980700-1455597830_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-59219600-1455597834_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-42739300-1455597839_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-07622400-1455597845_thumb.jpg

After some time with the hair dryer and air drying, a final coat was appliedpost-12041-0-01007400-1455597923_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-37510600-1455597931_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-12548000-1455597939_thumb.jpg

Now I moved onto the lens install and foam padding. I painted the ear screws and after a final polish....DONE!!!post-12041-0-85061000-1455598054_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-35323000-1455598062_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-89175100-1455598069_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-59034100-1455598075_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-09827300-1455598080_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-08534200-1455598084_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-10497600-1455598088_thumb.jpgpost-12041-0-91977300-1455598091_thumb.jpg

  • Like 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, we all know the things we like and dislike about the new Anovos helmets. I know they were going for replicating a specific helmet they saw in the archives but I still like my ears to have as little gap as possible. This is going to be a challenge because of how much they already removed. I am also particular about hand painted details so I need to do some transfer stripping. This helmet is paper thin. The ears are, too! Clearly NOT the same thickness of plastic used on the body armor.

First the disassembly:attachicon.gifP1060236.JPG The first thing I noticed was that the ear screws were the kind we are all looking to use on the thermal detonators. They are flat bottom, pan head slotted screws.attachicon.gifP1060277.JPG Because Anovos provided wedge head phillips screw for the TD, I will replace those with the helmet screws and replace the helmet screws with the correct angled screws.attachicon.gifP1060238.JPG After removing the hovis, I am going to swap out the fine mesh screen with the better stuff on the right. attachicon.gifP1060235.JPGNice hovi tips, though. Well done. No markings on the side, but well done. Anyway, I am also going to swap out the brow trim. Their brow trim was too loose and cut to mimic that trooper whos brow trim ended within the trapezoid. I like going to the ends. Just my preference. I will use the UK -US52 trim seen on the right.attachicon.gifP1060234.JPG It is almost identical but just a tad less shiny and tighter fitting to grab the brow.

With the helmet apart, I can start stripping the transfers. I only found two things that took them off: alcohol and goof off. The goof off required a little elbow grease, but worked much quicker.attachicon.gifDSCN1167.JPG With the helmet clean, I can start trimming. First I opened up the eyes a bit. Then started work on cleaning up the tooth openings and making the recessed ones on the right side (as you are looking at the face) a little larger. attachicon.gifP1060257.JPG While I had the face exposed, it was a good time to polish it. Note the reflections of the twin bulb worklight.attachicon.gifP1060258.JPG and after polishing:attachicon.gifP1060259.JPGattachicon.gifP1060260.JPG At this time, I also constructed the lens mounts from the hockey helmet screws.attachicon.gifP1060273.JPG After building a stack of scrap ABS around each and some trimming I glued them in place. attachicon.gifP1060274.JPG I used the provided lens material to make individual lenses.attachicon.gifP1060269.JPGattachicon.gifP1060270.JPG I removed the lenses and set them aside.

I needed to lower the main cap on the face slightly so the ear position would move down as well. I cut my new piece of brow trim and tried several positions on the helmet before settling on one I was happy with.attachicon.gifP1060265.JPGattachicon.gifP1060266.JPG I am happy with this placement. attachicon.gifP1060262.JPGI removed the temporary screws and riveted down the cap at the ears and around the cheek. attachicon.gifP1060279.JPG I got to work on the delicate job of re-trimming the ears out. The round portion was already thin so I had to really watch how much I took out. I was not entirely happy with the right ear, but it was a lot better than it was.attachicon.gifP1060275.JPG The left one came out a bit better. attachicon.gifP1060276.JPG Painting is next!!!

What exactly did you trim on the eye openings?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, we all know the things we like and dislike about the new Anovos helmets. I know they were going for replicating a specific helmet they saw in the archives but I still like my ears to have as little gap as possible. This is going to be a challenge because of how much they already removed. I am also particular about hand painted details so I need to do some transfer stripping. This helmet is paper thin. The ears are, too! Clearly NOT the same thickness of plastic used on the body armor.

First the disassembly:attachicon.gifP1060236.JPG The first thing I noticed was that the ear screws were the kind we are all looking to use on the thermal detonators. They are flat bottom, pan head slotted screws.attachicon.gifP1060277.JPG Because Anovos provided wedge head phillips screw for the TD, I will replace those with the helmet screws and replace the helmet screws with the correct angled screws.attachicon.gifP1060238.JPG After removing the hovis, I am going to swap out the fine mesh screen with the better stuff on the right. attachicon.gifP1060235.JPGNice hovi tips, though. Well done. No markings on the side, but well done. Anyway, I am also going to swap out the brow trim. Their brow trim was too loose and cut to mimic that trooper whos brow trim ended within the trapezoid. I like going to the ends. Just my preference. I will use the UK -US52 trim seen on the right.attachicon.gifP1060234.JPG It is almost identical but just a tad less shiny and tighter fitting to grab the brow.

With the helmet apart, I can start stripping the transfers. I only found two things that took them off: alcohol and goof off. The goof off required a little elbow grease, but worked much quicker.attachicon.gifDSCN1167.JPG With the helmet clean, I can start trimming. First I opened up the eyes a bit. Then started work on cleaning up the tooth openings and making the recessed ones on the right side (as you are looking at the face) a little larger. attachicon.gifP1060257.JPG While I had the face exposed, it was a good time to polish it. Note the reflections of the twin bulb worklight.attachicon.gifP1060258.JPG and after polishing:attachicon.gifP1060259.JPGattachicon.gifP1060260.JPG At this time, I also constructed the lens mounts from the hockey helmet screws.attachicon.gifP1060273.JPG After building a stack of scrap ABS around each and some trimming I glued them in place. attachicon.gifP1060274.JPG I used the provided lens material to make individual lenses.attachicon.gifP1060269.JPGattachicon.gifP1060270.JPG I removed the lenses and set them aside.

I needed to lower the main cap on the face slightly so the ear position would move down as well. I cut my new piece of brow trim and tried several positions on the helmet before settling on one I was happy with.attachicon.gifP1060265.JPGattachicon.gifP1060266.JPG I am happy with this placement. attachicon.gifP1060262.JPGI removed the temporary screws and riveted down the cap at the ears and around the cheek. attachicon.gifP1060279.JPG I got to work on the delicate job of re-trimming the ears out. The round portion was already thin so I had to really watch how much I took out. I was not entirely happy with the right ear, but it was a lot better than it was.attachicon.gifP1060275.JPG The left one came out a bit better. attachicon.gifP1060276.JPG Painting is next!!!

What exactly did you trim on the eye openings?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just trimmed of the majority of the flashing.

Got a before and after pic? I couldn't really tell going through the build. Did you leave the return edge and just get the areas the flipped slightly on the inside?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

SO this may be a dumb question but here it is anyways. 

 

If a helmet (not from anovos) has just a thin area but most of the helmet is solid, would it be ok to do this dip/cloth method only in that area, or all around to just keep it even? 

 

Charlene, in case you are talking about the thin area behind the hovi mic tips, there is a common mod to fix this by adding a little cloth piece, soaked with CA glue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Charlene, in case you are talking about the thin area behind the hovi mic tips, there is a common mod to fix this by adding a little cloth piece, soaked with CA glue.

 

This is exactly where I am talking about. One side seems to be a little stronger than the other and would love to strengthen it up. Can someone point to a thread where this was done or can I just wing this one? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...