travisccook[501st] Posted February 8, 2016 Report Share Posted February 8, 2016 Nuts above are 'T Nuts' and at your local hardware store (try an ACE or Do-it-best) you should be able to find a plethora of them in various sizes. You can also usually find them without the spikes. I just brought home a handfull today for this exact purpose! Little under 50 cents each. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaunpug[TK] Posted February 8, 2016 Report Share Posted February 8, 2016 Nuts above are 'T Nuts' and at your local hardware store (try an ACE or Do-it-best) you should be able to find a plethora of them in various sizes. You can also usually find them without the spikes. I just brought home a handfull today for this exact purpose! Little under 50 cents each.Are you referring to the ones I posted? If so that's great! \m/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBoz Posted February 8, 2016 Report Share Posted February 8, 2016 Sorry to sidetrack this, but would this work to mount the lenses? Back Front \m/ I'm using T-nuts for my lens mounts. Haven't gotten to the actual lens install yet, but there are some notes about my experience so far here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?/topic/35115-DBoz-ANOVOS-TK-Build/page__view__findpost__p__463933 I think they should work fine, just make sure to trim the spikes off before you install them. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted February 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2016 http://www.hockeygiant.com/bau09rp003.html Try these or others. Google "hockey helmet repair" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travisccook[501st] Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 Are you referring to the ones I posted? If so that's great! \m/ Yessir! Here are mine without the spikey things: 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted February 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Sorry for the delay guys. Here are the final shots of the helmet rebuild:Vent striping continued. I used Trooperbays templates to mark out where the vent lines should go. A couple masking strips on the top and bottom assured the stripes would be flat on the top and bottom. The tear stripes were freehanded. as was the vocoder area 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaunpug[TK] Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Great paint job! \m/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Jay[TK] Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 So good to see what you are doing to this... Keep it up, Steve! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted February 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Thanks, guys!! Keep in mind that the above picture of the vocoder was taken while the paint was still wet. I did use semi-gloss here and that is how it turned out as you will see. Next up was the tube stripes. I used the masking tape method for making the stripes. After heavy burnishing of the tape to make complex curve of the tube, I placed trooperbay's template on the line I measured from the cheek and traced each stripe out. I used the exacto to carefully cut ouch each stripe and painted it with Humbrol. I almost immediately peeled the tape off. I think I might wait next time until the paint has fully dried. When I peeled it up, the paint became stringy left little strings that I needed to go back and remove with a thinner dampened brush. But overall, they came out OK. Next I moved onto the interior. I cleaned off all the adhesive from everything that was stuck on previously. I needed to clip down the new ear screws with snips. After that I could move onto applying the plasti-dip/cheesecloth interior coating. Typically, I will lay a thin layer of "dip" to embed the cheesecloth into, then a second coat of "dip" on top. Because the plstic was so thin I used 3 coats of dip and two embedded layers of cheesecloth.. After some time with the hair dryer and air drying, a final coat was applied Now I moved onto the lens install and foam padding. I painted the ear screws and after a final polish....DONE!!! 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fokker210[TK] Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Amazing work.....as usual! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revyl Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Absolutely stellar work. Very clean interior! Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themaninthesuitcase[Admin] Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 The finish on this looks awesome. Lots of handy tips and tricks to use as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SidGi3 Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Ok, we all know the things we like and dislike about the new Anovos helmets. I know they were going for replicating a specific helmet they saw in the archives but I still like my ears to have as little gap as possible. This is going to be a challenge because of how much they already removed. I am also particular about hand painted details so I need to do some transfer stripping. This helmet is paper thin. The ears are, too! Clearly NOT the same thickness of plastic used on the body armor. First the disassembly:P1060236.JPG The first thing I noticed was that the ear screws were the kind we are all looking to use on the thermal detonators. They are flat bottom, pan head slotted screws.P1060277.JPG Because Anovos provided wedge head phillips screw for the TD, I will replace those with the helmet screws and replace the helmet screws with the correct angled screws.P1060238.JPG After removing the hovis, I am going to swap out the fine mesh screen with the better stuff on the right. P1060235.JPGNice hovi tips, though. Well done. No markings on the side, but well done. Anyway, I am also going to swap out the brow trim. Their brow trim was too loose and cut to mimic that trooper whos brow trim ended within the trapezoid. I like going to the ends. Just my preference. I will use the UK -US52 trim seen on the right.P1060234.JPG It is almost identical but just a tad less shiny and tighter fitting to grab the brow. With the helmet apart, I can start stripping the transfers. I only found two things that took them off: alcohol and goof off. The goof off required a little elbow grease, but worked much quicker.DSCN1167.JPG With the helmet clean, I can start trimming. First I opened up the eyes a bit. Then started work on cleaning up the tooth openings and making the recessed ones on the right side (as you are looking at the face) a little larger. P1060257.JPG While I had the face exposed, it was a good time to polish it. Note the reflections of the twin bulb worklight.P1060258.JPG and after polishing:P1060259.JPGP1060260.JPG At this time, I also constructed the lens mounts from the hockey helmet screws.P1060273.JPG After building a stack of scrap ABS around each and some trimming I glued them in place. P1060274.JPG I used the provided lens material to make individual lenses.P1060269.JPGP1060270.JPG I removed the lenses and set them aside. I needed to lower the main cap on the face slightly so the ear position would move down as well. I cut my new piece of brow trim and tried several positions on the helmet before settling on one I was happy with.P1060265.JPGP1060266.JPG I am happy with this placement. P1060262.JPGI removed the temporary screws and riveted down the cap at the ears and around the cheek. P1060279.JPG I got to work on the delicate job of re-trimming the ears out. The round portion was already thin so I had to really watch how much I took out. I was not entirely happy with the right ear, but it was a lot better than it was.P1060275.JPG The left one came out a bit better. P1060276.JPG Painting is next!!! What exactly did you trim on the eye openings? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SidGi3 Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Ok, we all know the things we like and dislike about the new Anovos helmets. I know they were going for replicating a specific helmet they saw in the archives but I still like my ears to have as little gap as possible. This is going to be a challenge because of how much they already removed. I am also particular about hand painted details so I need to do some transfer stripping. This helmet is paper thin. The ears are, too! Clearly NOT the same thickness of plastic used on the body armor. First the disassembly:P1060236.JPG The first thing I noticed was that the ear screws were the kind we are all looking to use on the thermal detonators. They are flat bottom, pan head slotted screws.P1060277.JPG Because Anovos provided wedge head phillips screw for the TD, I will replace those with the helmet screws and replace the helmet screws with the correct angled screws.P1060238.JPG After removing the hovis, I am going to swap out the fine mesh screen with the better stuff on the right. P1060235.JPGNice hovi tips, though. Well done. No markings on the side, but well done. Anyway, I am also going to swap out the brow trim. Their brow trim was too loose and cut to mimic that trooper whos brow trim ended within the trapezoid. I like going to the ends. Just my preference. I will use the UK -US52 trim seen on the right.P1060234.JPG It is almost identical but just a tad less shiny and tighter fitting to grab the brow. With the helmet apart, I can start stripping the transfers. I only found two things that took them off: alcohol and goof off. The goof off required a little elbow grease, but worked much quicker.DSCN1167.JPG With the helmet clean, I can start trimming. First I opened up the eyes a bit. Then started work on cleaning up the tooth openings and making the recessed ones on the right side (as you are looking at the face) a little larger. P1060257.JPG While I had the face exposed, it was a good time to polish it. Note the reflections of the twin bulb worklight.P1060258.JPG and after polishing:P1060259.JPGP1060260.JPG At this time, I also constructed the lens mounts from the hockey helmet screws.P1060273.JPG After building a stack of scrap ABS around each and some trimming I glued them in place. P1060274.JPG I used the provided lens material to make individual lenses.P1060269.JPGP1060270.JPG I removed the lenses and set them aside. I needed to lower the main cap on the face slightly so the ear position would move down as well. I cut my new piece of brow trim and tried several positions on the helmet before settling on one I was happy with.P1060265.JPGP1060266.JPG I am happy with this placement. P1060262.JPGI removed the temporary screws and riveted down the cap at the ears and around the cheek. P1060279.JPG I got to work on the delicate job of re-trimming the ears out. The round portion was already thin so I had to really watch how much I took out. I was not entirely happy with the right ear, but it was a lot better than it was.P1060275.JPG The left one came out a bit better. P1060276.JPG Painting is next!!! What exactly did you trim on the eye openings? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted February 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 I just trimmed of the majority of the flashing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SidGi3 Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 I just trimmed of the majority of the flashing.Got a before and after pic? I couldn't really tell going through the build. Did you leave the return edge and just get the areas the flipped slightly on the inside? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Steve, I think you have done this a time or two before. No way you're a rookie! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted February 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 I didn't take a before pic but if you search the 8000 other pics of the Anovos helmet, it looked like those. Yes, Jason. I have a few under my belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sly11[Admin] Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 Superb work from the master yet again. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted February 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 Thank you guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fueledbychar Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 SO this may be a dumb question but here it is anyways. If a helmet (not from anovos) has just a thin area but most of the helmet is solid, would it be ok to do this dip/cloth method only in that area, or all around to just keep it even? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Jay[TK] Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 SO this may be a dumb question but here it is anyways. If a helmet (not from anovos) has just a thin area but most of the helmet is solid, would it be ok to do this dip/cloth method only in that area, or all around to just keep it even? Charlene, in case you are talking about the thin area behind the hovi mic tips, there is a common mod to fix this by adding a little cloth piece, soaked with CA glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fueledbychar Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 Charlene, in case you are talking about the thin area behind the hovi mic tips, there is a common mod to fix this by adding a little cloth piece, soaked with CA glue. This is exactly where I am talking about. One side seems to be a little stronger than the other and would love to strengthen it up. Can someone point to a thread where this was done or can I just wing this one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Bloodstripes[501st] Posted February 21, 2016 Report Share Posted February 21, 2016 It looks awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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